Ever Victorious

Alright, sounds good.

I'm mulling over a few chassis that are available to me and had a couple questions about a configuration that may not be "normal" for most members here. EA81 5-speed FWD to EJ motor: OK to hold the power from an EJ22 as long as an XT6 pressure plate is used? or would the trans need to go EJ as well? If an EJ trans is required, are there clearance problems with the shifter on the FWD similar to 4WD models, or are those eliminated because there is no rear driveline?

Wow... that is a snag! I thought I found a low mileage car when I bought my '91 with 97k miles in January, but wow! Yeah, the belts on these are supposed to be 60k interval, so get ready to replace 'em. Wouldn't be a bad idea to flush the ATF, either.

A mid 80's with a 5 speed would be an EA81 or EA82. The EA71 hatches would have been 4 speeds... I had one sitting around my garage for a while.

Settling and breaking in are two different things. A quick jaunt should settle the springs, but depending on the type of springs, they may drop a bit further after broken in. I've had a set of Sprint springs on one car that dropped an extra half inch over the course of 6 months, and a set of Eibachs on another that dropped a quarter inch in the same time period... after which, both sets of springs ended up at their final height.

Amen. In my 260Z, you had to basically play Battleship with 3rd and 4th gears, as they would be in a different place every time you shifted.

Minus the color, that is the sexiest Subaru around.

Base sticker on an '88 GL 4WD would have been around $11.6k... I have vague memories of my parents buying their '82 DL FWD wagon brand new (well, it was a demonstrator, anyway... had a couple hundred miles on it). I was 4 years old and I saw the new BRAT and was in love with it. Played around in one the whole time they were negotiating. They ended up getting it for like $4800... which was $300 off sticker. We ran it to 160k miles (and replaced an engine at about 130k), then sold it to my GF (now wife). She drove it for over a year before the HG's started leaking, and her dad didn't want to fix it... (big mistake given what happened to her next car). Mm... vinyl seats + trips to Eastern Washington = teh suck.

You can also go to the lighting aisle of your local parts store and their books in the lighting section will tell you what size bulbs are in your dash. You can then buy the appropriate colored bulb in the appropriate size. Using a marker will work, but it may shorten the life of the bulb depending on the compound of the marker (as they may either eat part of the bulb material causing a crack, or they may trap heat in the bulb causing the filiment to burn out prematurely. There are also "bulb condoms" that you can put on white bulbs to change their color. These are harder to find, but safer than a marker. Best bet is just to get the correct colored bulb... I've done this before on a Kia and it was awesome.

Alright, thanks... I should be getting a chance to actually go look at it up close in the next day or so, so I'll try this when I get to.

Well, for what it's worth, I got the info on it. hehe One owner (prior to going to auction), last reported mileage was 86,708 on 1-10-2007. No accidents, no known odometer discrepancies, no lemon history, only thing that was odd is that it failed emissions inspection in New York at 9,000 miles.... but it has passed all emissions and safety inspections since.

Hi guys... I'm actually posting this for my neighbor. I was trying to figure out what might be the problem to see if this thing is salvageable. My neighbors have a Loyale of some sort (not sure of year or type, other than it is a 5-speed... dunno if it's 4WD or what type if it is) that they ran into the back of another car late last year. Well, for whatever reason, they still have their car... and it's having difficulty running. Fuel is not getting to the engine. He can manually feed it fuel (which indicates to me it's probably carbed, but I don't know for sure) and it will start and run, but it will not run on its own, no fuel gets to the engine. Is there a cutoff of some sort that terminates fuel supply to the engine in the event of a front end collision? Or what might this possibly be?

Well, I would, but Carfax is broken right now. Apparently loading its homepage is too much for itself.

When Lee Johnson asks where the rotors are in the engine, or points out that cylinders should not be 180 degrees from each other, would be a good time to point this out. This thread is probably long since "resolved", but I of course have to put in MY two cents. I've been using Smart Service off and on since they started business (since, of course, I've only had Subarus off and on since then). I have always found them to be more than fair and thorough, and they always warn me of upcoming needs of the car BEFORE they fail, which is an improvement over every other mechanic, including dealerships. I'm looking at a listing on my latest invoice for upcoming brake work needed for my Legacy. Which is actually cheaper than my quote from MIDAS... and I know the Smart Service job will be a far better job done. As for Les Schwab + brakes.. well, it's a good thing they put such a long warranty on the brakes, as they are needed. My old '90 Legacy got a Les Schwab brake job and, like clockwork, every 4,000 miles I had to take the car back in and get either rotors or pads replaced, because they kept getting eaten up.

TCS/ESP programs do definitely have their use. My wife's SUV handles MUCH better on the ice/snow with it, and even in the rain I've found use for it as the tires age and wear out. It is disableable on her SUV... I just hope they keep it that way after 2010.

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I dunno. My dad found out that deer has a conjugation. One deer is a deer. Four deer is a bunch of deer. Four deer rocketing across the road while you're in your Miata is "holy crap".

Okey dokey, Yeah... Legacy LSi. Top of the line model for the year. Air suspension, or coil?

Don't suppose that Lego up in the 'Hood had a 3" under-stereo pocket, did it?

Yeah.. you can send me that cool 3-spoke steering wheel. Then it would be on the right side. In my car.

in '94 there was a Legacy variant that was called the Alpine Sport. It was equipped basically like the outback later would come equipped, minus the body cladding. But the heated seats and other fun toys were there. But true, if it's truly a '94 and says "Outback" on it, someone glued the emblem there. I've seen someone locally do that to an '86 GL.

Wow, makes mine really look like a newborn. '91 Legacy L, 97,000 miles. Don't know much about it. Today was my second day of ownership. But the mileage progression that Carfax shows was kind of interesting. Looks like it has been a 2-owner vehicle, though I don't know when the title transfers were. As of first emissions test back in '97, it had 65k miles. Last emissions test in '05 had it at 91k miles. 26k miles over the course of 8 years.

Pardon me if I'm wrong, but don't '97 L's and Brightons still have the EJ22?

That's what the RX-7 owners said about the FPD banjo bolt mod. After looking at it I determined I was enough of a spast-o-tard that I couldn't do it, and the $180 I paid a mechanic to do it was money well spent. Re-reading his writeup just makes me go "huh?" some more. (Plus, the last time I was working inside the door trim of a Subaru was super extra not happy pleasant... 8 hours to replace an outer door handle)

Well, through the search function I've found that my "new" '91 Legacy has the "Lock Remote" problem, where the passenger lock doesn't fully unlock with the power locks, and pulling the door handle causes the door to lock. I've read the write-up for the "fix" to it, and don't really have the time/skills to do that. Anyone know the part number for the OEM replacement, so I can see if they're still available?