Storydude1

One tooth off on the Distributor. As soon as you rack throttle, vac drops, advances timing too far and boom, spitting through carb.

All that will do is loosen the bolt. Starter spins the wrong way to tighten the bolt.

Ok, been chasing this for a few weeks now. 1980 GL wagon 2wd, 5 speed, EA71. NEw cap,rotor,plugs,wires,fuel filter, air filter(both), new Vac. lines routed correctly. Secondaries are opening. No black smoke. When I start the climbs here, I roll on the gas, above 2/3 throttle, it starts misfire and I lose speed. Drop a gear, it runs fine till 2/3 throttle then starts again. Misfire can be felt and sometimes heard. Compression is decent wet and dry. Plugs all look nice and tan, rear 2 (2 and 4) are a slight shade darker than 1/3. If I rack RPM to 4750 and above, it seems to clear up, but not always. Carb is clean, new top gasket, choke is opening fully. I've tried new plugs, wires ohm out correctly, cap looks great, no burnt contacts, Dist. shaft is solid with no play. Valves in spec, adjusted last week, still in spec. WTF am I missing here????? It's a Cali emissions car too, so there are some differences.......

I'd use an impact gun myself. If you do not have one, a hardened punch is what you want.

That's something under pressure and load. Too deep to be anything else. Time to start where crossmember meets car and work backwards, checking every connection from tires to body. It almost sounds like your crossmember is shifting.

THIS. Most auto parts suppliers do this frequently. Parts have same dimensions, just look different, because they are 2 different designs of the same ball joint. One which looks made to a pricepoint lower than the other. At least he didn't open a "sealed" box of NGK plugs and find 2 that were attacked by a set of vice grips.

Germany. And it must be a "factory approved" mod...Read In-house factory tuning or big money aftermarket that ponied up the funds to get parts approved.

Are you stuck with using Fastenal? If so, I'd use the radial. If not: rockauto.com

Ok, I've looked and cannot see anything that looks like a cat, aside from a big lump shaped thing where the 2 pipes converge, just after the engine. Is that the converter? 1980 GL-5 wagon EA71 motor.

re-wired Desertfind's dealer AC's relays so I do not have to open hood every time I turn car off to unhook fan and clutch. Also ran wire(supposed to be for AC lol) that will be for foglights. Changed rear tire after separating tread @ 75 on the highway, found a new tire/rim and set of brown centercaps at junkyard and carpet dash pad that is same color as interior. Yay! no more cracked dash! Swapped Alternator and VR on Sat. due to volts going from 8 to 16+ and back to 8 then 12 then 14 then peg at 8 then....AMAZED local auto parts store had both in stock. This week is swapping seats for the hatch seats I found in the junkyard today.

Big difference between propane and gasoline is propane vapor temp is WAAAY under what Gasoline is. Gasoline at 85* ambient will flash to vapor over time..Propane at 85* ambient is already a gas. Now, Propane is an approved refrigerant in many chiller systems. Any gas that can be compressed to a liquid will work as a refrigerant. My problem with EA-12 is that it is not approved to use in an R12 system in the USA. And without using the proper fittings and labels, if you take that vehicle to a repair shop and do not have labels and fittings, the guy will contaminate his entire recovery tank if he reclaims the EA-12, thinking it's R-12. Sure, he should use an gas checker first, but many shops go by fittings and labels alone. 3Oz of EA-12 makes an entire tank of recovered R-12 useless. But, regarding EPA laws...It's perfectly legal for your system to vent to the air and be refilled every year...But if the Tech working on it cracks a valve seat without being hooked to a system, he is liable for a 15,000 dollar fine. Figure that one out.

I did ester and evac, 34PSI lowside, 104* ambient, getting 55* out of the vents at idle, 49 at 65mph. Sight glass is clear until 3000 engine rpm when it flashes due to lack of airflow over condenser.

You can dump straight propane into your AC system for 2.50 a gallon. EA-12A is mostly propane without an odor agent in it. I just hope one never blows an evap with it running and smokes.

There are many temp/pressure charts. google is your friend. Sight glass is there for a reason. bubbles means the refrigerant is flashing to vapor BERFORe the metering device(in the dryer or evap., depending on system) and making things go all whacky. Foam looking stuff in sight glass=add more refrigerant. Without a solid column of liquid hitting dryer and sight glass, you'll never get cold air out the vents. Here, Ambient of 104*F I shoot for 28-35PSI low side. Below 25PSI gives a saturation temp below freezing and you'll see evap icing and ice on the low side hoses. Icing is where the problem is. Icing on evap=bad orifice tube/metering device. Icing on compressor inlet=bad valving in compressor. Assuming full charge this is. Below 65*, unless you want to do wetbulb tests, you cannot test an AC system by pressure. No heat to remove means nothing is happening and refrigerant is just moving through the system. Need a heat load to move heat.

Another common location on later legacy's is inside the rubber boot between door and body. I've had 2 wagons that wires were fractured inside that boot.

Sounds like subaru needed to add a windage tray and baffles to the oil pan.

Could he be looking for the actual flasher relay itself by chance?

Making a subaru Boxer into a Big Bang motor is going to be difficult. Even more so with EFI.

Internal leak in the MC. It can build pressure but not build pressure from a single press. No leaks+Bled+crappy pedal=blown MC, or MC is on it's way out.

Jasco Prep and Etch is almost the same stuff, just a slightly less Phosphoric acid %. And it works excellent for prepping metal for ANY coating.

FWIW, the fan relay grounds out through that switch. make sure Rad is grounded to body as well.

Carpetbombed Desertfind with Chemtool B12 to try and stop idle stumble. 2 cans in 2 gallons of gas and idling for 30 min. Almost instant results

Yea, I would need everything under the hood to use those hoses. Thanks anyway!

Are the hatch struts good? IF so, I could really use them.

If you want a spare. those units I've found to be a BIG PITA to remove from ANY car. If you still have power assist on the pedal, chances are the booster is still good.