Storydude1

DOT 3 and DOT 4 are interchangable. DOT 5 however, is it's own animal. Use it, it'll be fine.

Just do what I do. Take your used motor oil, put it in a garden sprayer, jack up car, spray liberally. Sure, you leave puddles for a week, but it keeps the rust at check. Grandad did this on EVERY car he owned....not one of them rusted out.

Sorry, but if the Differential is Whirring, and has Metal shavings in it, it means he either: A. toasted Carrier bearings...Lifespan...200-300 miles. B: Toasted Pinion bearings....Lifespan....100 miles or less. C. Toasted Spider gears.......Lifespan....10 feet to 200 miles. The parts of a differential need to be within .001" of an inch, or they SELF DESTRUCT. Plain and simple. i've set up off road axles with different gears, and let me tell you, the difference a.005" shim makes is the difference between a new 500$ set of Randy's Ring and Pinion Gears lasting 100K miles.....Or 10 miles. If he has metal shavings, and it's whirring, it's toast. I would not take it above 20 mph unless you like locking up a driveline at higher speeds......Taking the carrier housing, transmission, usually CV shafts, and d-shafts with it.

Ok. That is where the Fuel, REturn and Vapor lines come from the tank to the motor. The lines start at the tank under the 2 Oval access covers directly above where that pic was taken. Remove both access covers and you'll see what looks like the pic above with red pait. The lines come out of the tank as Metal, an as soon as they come outsidde the tank, become rubber. They continue rubber to a place under the car, in front of the Driver's rear wheel. If you look up by the suspension of the driver's rear tire, you'll see 3 rubber hoses, and a funny Disk/L shaped thing...(More about that in a min) There, they attach to metal tubes, and run through the INSIDE of the car, to the firewall. My Guess is one of the rubber lines from the tank to the body broke/rotted/got sliced. The gas is flowing down the hose, and is being drawn into th car through cappiliary action. Now, there are 2 sending units on the tanks....One is the Feed, and will have 3 tubes, one is a transfer and has 1. Fuel comes from the tank, to the motor through the middle one of that cluster in your pic. One is return from the motor, that pulls fuel from the OTHER sending unit(think in the Pass. side tank) The other goes into that Disk shaped thing which is a One way valve...It lets vapor come FROM tank, but not BACK to tank. Hook it up wrong, and you'll head a BIG HIIIIISSSSSSSSSSS when you open the tank. No damage will be done...But you'll find OTHER leaks that way:) Now, if the rubber lines are bad from the tank to body, you CAN replace them, but fishing the rubber lines away from moving parts/between tank and body is somewhat difficult. IF it's the METAL lines, just remove them from the rubber tank-body lines, go to local autoparts store, get a chunk of Metal gas line the same size, and splice it in with a short piece of rubber hose and clamps inside the car. the metal line bends easy, so making the bends is no problem. Hope this made it as clear as mud for ya:)

The switch CUTS the circut. On for driving, and off for 4wd. I thought that was pretty clear in the first post about this?

It's MM propaganda...Take it with a grain of salt. Get the video, and watch it. It'll make you think.

Oh, you still might. mud sucks.

Ok, you are wrong. 1. Winches only get rated pull at the first layer of rope. first layer is about 5 feet of rope. 2. The winch will pull and wrap nice under load. it's free spooling back in that you need to guide it to prevent birds-nesting. 3. 36K Lbs is about right for the rope on a 8K winch for breaking limit. Check out Milemarker.com, and request the free DVD showing winch rope breaking limits(used as a demo of MM's Hydro winch power, but works good as an example) 4. Safety factor of 4 is for rigging equipment..not just the rope. Figure a 2K pull, means you'd need at least a 8K rated snatch block. Better off with a 10K. Just like D-rings..8K and 10K are within 10 bucks of eachother. Overkill is nice. You'll stall that HF winch before snapping the line assuming a good clean rope. Now you understand why Tow Trucks have 12K, and 24K Ramsey Hydro winches on them, and run 1" cable.

Actually, the lights run on 28VDC, And In case you have not figured it out, that's not mine..... Click the thread and read about them....no way they are even close to DOT apporved...hell almost have to be NASA approved......

I just mounted 4 of these. Think they will be bright enough? Click me

Not a problem. Seen FAR too many mistakes made in recovery. Only problem is the mistakes might be minor, but the results can be deadly. God forgives....High velocity metal does not.

4X safety factor. PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU GET HURT

In the rear of the vehicle there are 2 access ports under the carpet. Remove those, and there will be the sending unit/s. check the hoses coming off of them, check the hoses under the car(especally the one with a round disk in it..That disk is a one way valve that allows pressure to bleed off of the tank. If it's plugged, you'll force gas out of many places) and check the transfer pump line(IIRC the middle one on the pass. side sending unit) Sounds like you may have a leak in one of those lines. There is enough room to get rubber lines beside the tank, and down to the metal lines if you are patient.

Do a search on Amsteel Blue. Too bad 100 ft will cost you around 150 bucks. As for connecting cables/straps, look for some D-rings. Again, OVERKILL is your friend. a 2 ton D-ring might work, but a 4 ton would be better.

Search for Block and Tackle, Rigging block, and winch block. HF's shipping SUCKS. I've had stuff come in 10 days, and had stuff not come for 6 months.

Find a small pipe wrench. It mangles the fittings, but they COME OFF. Flare renches suck Line wrenches suck Once you try a Pipe Wrench, you'll NEVER use anything but.

I didn;t see the 49 dollar price. I thought you were looking at the 3K 139.00 one. This one goes on sale for 239.99 ALL the time at my local store, and was the one I was referencing. Sorry for the confusion.

You'll probably stall the winch before snapping the cable....but it DOES happen. 20 bucks...ebay 15 bucks ebay DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE EDIT: You'll want to be able to seperate the pulley from the frame to thread your cable through it. Don;t buy one without, or you are pulling your hook off EVERY time.

2K LBS? One question. Do you wheel in mud at all? If yes, DO NOT BUY THAT WINCH. 2K is NOT enough to get an ATV free from sticky mud. A Car recovery? forget about it. Those winches are load rated at 5 wraps on the drum. More wraps=less torque. I'd save another 100 bucks, and get the HF 8K Milemarker copy. It's a little big on the front of a subaru, but it'll pull you when you REALLY need it. If you are dead set on the 2K one, DO NOT SKRIMP on the snatch block. ALL rigging should be rated for 4X what the load is for a safety factor. I've seen cables snap, and snatch blocks fail. NOT a cool scene. check Ebay, and local rigging places. A 12 pack goes a long way to getting cheap/free stuff. Getting to needing a snatch block or not, I'd almost have to say YES, you will need one. Don't forget the Tree protector(hooking hook to cable is a no-no) and a Ground Anchor.(old Solid Axle shafts driven into the ground work great) And remember...When that cable is under tension, it stretches.....ALOT. Stay out of a 45* arc from the cable. If it snaps, you do NOT want to be standing inline with it.

Nope..Buffalo NY

I have to disagreee there. The H3 is a damn site better than ANYTHING in it's class. Coming from a Jeep guy, that's saying something. H3 offroad package includes STOCK... Locking rear Diff(not LSD, LOCKING) 4:1 Tcase, 33" tires,4.56 gears full skid plates, and Tow points. KJ(Liberty) has NONE of those options available. Those are the only 2 small SUV's worth mentioning. The h3's need the Turbocharged, or Supercharged I5 in the worst way. Add a 305 V-8 and it'd be perfect. When GM decdes to up the power, I know what I'll be looking at in 10 years to buy, and wheel.

Every automotive fluid has a distinct, and DIFFERENT taste. Antifreeze is Mondo sweet. Brake fluid is a sharp, almost Hot taste, that flows across your tounge FAST(Brake fluid is way lighter a substance than water) Oil, well, that you can pretty much see. ATF is like brake fluid, with a sour undertone. Gas, well, again, you usually don;t need to taste. I learned that a LONG time ago, when doing backyard repairs. The amounts you get on your tounge, and actually INTO your system are smaller than the EPA allowances in about 90% of the processed food you eat. Not to say I'd go chugging pints of the fluid, but a SMALL amounton the tounge will not harm you. Hell, might even help.

Thank ya thank ya. Now, to convince the old lady that she NEEDS this....

So, no service lights UNLESS you start it with the switch on. Just looking for clarification on that, because of the Inspection Nazi's here in NY. If they find ANY code, boom, you FAIL. Here in Buffalo(Land of the neverending winter) a Mod like that could be VERY helpful. Again, just looking for clarification.

Changing the direction tires spin is not a good idea when 90% of tires nowadays are DIRECTIONAL. The last 5 tire sets I bought had BIG arrows on the sidewall stating "Direction of Rotation"