bbbs53

As far as the blower motor goes, pretty much count on it being the motor. In the FSM, there is a tree approach to diagnosing the problem. It starts with the fuse in the box, juice to the glass fuse under the dash, juice to the in side of the switch, juice to the out side of the switch, juice to the fan lead. I have done this twice in two cars in the last month. Lucky huh? You need to remove the glove box, not the door, just the box. Get the defroster ducts out of the way and then you can get it out without removing the unit. It kind of has to be jockeyed around a little, but it can be done. I would highly recommend removing the resistor coil unit first. It only has 2 phillips screws and comes right out. Mark which side is which for reinstallation. The good part is, the motors are pretty much the same. It needs to be one that has the vent on the motor, however the Gen. 1's didn't have it and the motor is the same. If you get the whole unit out of the donor car, check it with alligator clips to the battery before you pull it. It may save you some time and headache. Also, when you take the glass fuse under the dash out, be alive on where that hot lead touches. It will blow a fuseable link and you will not start. Guess why I know that. There is a ground wire to the screw on the heater front panel that comes off with the verticle screw on the right hand facing side. Good luck, and if you have problems, I will send you the FSM pages.

How about a little low trailer, and put the beer cooler in front of the seats where it belongs. Or buy a Ford.

Yeah Fox, in more than one state!

PRIMO SCORE!!!! Probably last you 10 years and a hundred and fifty thousand miles. Nice ride!

Yup! and the light and the correct middle piece and the relay and the switch and and and. Can someone say packrat? I think it goes with the territory.

In a nut shell, and wiring, yes.

Move to a state that doesn't have smog testing, like beautiful smog free Idaho!

Well, when I was messing with gen 1's, I gathered the parts to do the do. There are some serious room considerations. That is not to say it can't be done, but it will require some thought about the bottom mount. It needs to line up, obliviously, with the center of the grille. This ends up lower than the bottom radiator support. I had envisioned making an extension bracket to drop a hole down to catch the bottom of the light bracket. The other problem is the grille is closer to the radiator than the gen 2's. I think that with some consideration it can be done, but it won't be easy.

If I am not mistaken, there is a port, plugged in the other end of the pump. You can try another sending unit or a mech. unit from there. If it isnt making a lot of noise, it is probably ok, but very unerving. They wiill hold together on remarkably little oil pressure.

Austin, what year is it? Does it have the tach dash? I have that harness. I have the book also for my Brat's. I can shoot you pics. or whatever you need. Sounds like it is a 78 or 79 or earlier, I believe, with Brats anyway, they went to the black box in '80. I have a '78 that is working and has the funky resistor on the top of the coil. Mail me, Bradd

I would say that is about right. I removed the seats when I did mine and it made it a lot easier to get to a lot of the hard to reach bolts. Once you have the heater proper out, except for putting the hoses back on the valve, it goes pretty fast. There is an article in the fix-it forum that has a way to remove it by cutting it out. I used the opportunity to replace my dash's with coverlay covers and do some other painting and clean up on hard to get to places. I replaced the carpet, and undercoated the floor pans and put down a layer of sound deadening material. It is a royal pain in the rear, but I have to have it or the windows freeze and you can't see. Good luck, look at it as an opportunity to do several other things at the same time. It has always amused me that the running gear is bullet proff, but the rest of the car will rust or sun rot right around you. Go figure, Bradd:banghead:

Andy I think you misunderstood the point. I will pay for it and let them relist it. If someone needs it they can buy it then. I am not going to do it twice, just once. There are a lot of people on ebay that are not members and if they want to out bid me, then do. I also didn't bid over the buy it now price, which no one jumped on when it sat there for 3 days. I thought it was a fair price, the board needs the money, and if someone outside wants it they will have another chance. Until there is another system to contribute, it seemed like a good idea. It does not break any rules to bid on something you intend to pay for, which I do. What I do with it once it is mine is up to me. We talk back and forth about things we are bidding on all the time, so there is no problem in doing that either. Also, we are talking about a non-profit org. versus a single seller. If it was to drive up one persons price, I would agree with you, but this is a fund raiser. I have been to a lot of charity auctions where the same item was sold 5 or 6 times. The object being to raise money. If someone from here really needs that grille, they can have it for the shipping when the auction is over. Fair enough? I do appreciate your comments however, Bradd

She's correct, 2 1/2 pages in da book, Bradd:boohoo:

I just had a thought, first one today. The other board has a paypal logo set up so it will put your contribution directly into the boards fund. If this option was available on the front page, it would save a lot of time and generate the needed cash. Might want to offer a few features for paying members. The other board let's you have a showroom for your cars, and gives you unrestricted access to the site. Ideas? Bradd

My pals two SVX's have wipers that park over the defroster vents, then hide when not in use. Really slick, I wish some of that technology would have made it on down to the older stuff, but they came along later in life. It is a real plus when it is freezing, Bradd

Aw common Emily, having just done a gen 1 and a gen 2 it's just most of the car and the whole dash! Bradd:lol: LMAO!!!!

Hodaka, Ive got a 1/25th AMT model, still sealed in the shrink wrap. Mail me, Bradd

Hi, you have, as Tom pointed out, appraised the situation correctly. The inner usually has enough movement to clear the diff with both pins removed. Thanks Ken. There is a stub in the drum end and a stub on the diff. It is probably in love, rust wise. A little heat and penetrating oil will help and they can be stubborn. May have to use a little hammer action, Bradd

Ok guys, lets get behind the USMB auctions. I have an '82 GL Brat and it has a working center light. So, why bid on a grille I don't need? To run up the price! And if I do win, I will have the owner auction it off again. I belong to the Tamiya RC club and it's board. It is 15 pounds a year for the privilage. About 24.00 dollars. This board is a privilage also, and needs to be supported by all of us. If you aren't getting anything out of all the advice that is posted here, then let it go. Personaly, I have saved a good deal of cash and time thanks to the help of many, many people. Gotten a few good deals to boot, as have a lot of us! So give it up. Lets get this off the ground so the moderators don't have to sweat whether the bills are paid, or worse, pay them out of there own pockets. Nuff said, Bradd:brow:

I had a short burn one of the fuseable links. I was tracing down the heater fan at the time. There is a glass fuse in the system under the dash. I would use my meter to check all 3 F. links. If you did have an ignition short, it is a possibility. Also I will check da book, Bradd

This is a sad day. It is a reminder to us all how short life is, and how quick it can be over. He is in good hands, it is the ones close to him that will suffer now. We can't bring him back, but we can do something for his lady and child. I know you guys, we will do what needs to be done. I wish I could attend the celebration. That is what it should be. When one of the children goes home to the Father, there is no need for sadness, except for our loss. God bless his family and God's speed in their grief, Bradd

Yo Tom, when I first installed mine, I missed a vacume line from the previous carb. I also plugged the big hole with a caplug and a backfire blew it out, then it wouldn't run at all. I would look for a vacume leak of magnum size. It doesn't sound like you nuked the spark, but you never know. Good luck with it, if I can do it anyone can. Bradd

Having been broken this year, I too wish you a speedy recovery, Bradd

Yo Phat, if you send me your email addy, mines in profile, I will send you some, Bradd

Amen to that. Bradd