bbbs53

I would agree with you Dave, if you can run across town and look it over first. If you have to fly 3 states away, at some point in time, you have to take someone's word for the condition and ask a lot of questions. Then, when they totally misrepresent what they have and it takes a few hundred miles to figure it out, I think that you may find, that being lied to, especially by a fellow board member, at the time, old board, it really stinks. If I had given you my word that a car was yours until you got the cash together, it would have been there when you showed up. Otherwise, I would have told you the first one with the money is the owner. The point isn't about used car buying lessons, which no one needs, but about whether your word is worth anything or not. In this case and it sounds like in Cole's case, the word was not kept. Snooze you lose? Not when I tell you it's yours, maybe you do things differently, but a majority of folks around here don't.

There not the metric wheels are they? Bradd

Hi, I don't know if anyone noticed, but we finally have someone who actually lives in Japan on the board. Welcome! Hopefully it will help dispell some of the misinformation that goes on around here. Also, maybe there is a chance of getting some parts that have disappeared from this country. Keep with us, Bradd

Price is relative. I bought a nice rust free '78 Brat from Ken for 500.00. Granted, it needed quite a bit of work to get it into the condition it is now, new paint, sunroof, bumpers, rubber, interior, rear seats, carpet and a host of other things, but it is strong and doesn't have any rust issues. It also has a new old stock ignition switch. It is going to go bye bye soon. I have my '80 for sale right now, with Weber for 1500.00. Had a lot of lookers, but haven't sold it yet. It will when it gets a little colder. The '78 will be about a 2 grand ride and no one will find a nicer one. I saw the one on ebay, and it looked framiliar with that bumper. It may belong to one of the western Washington guy's. If you want to know who Cole had a problem with, email him and ask him. If you want to know which former board member got me for some change, email me and I will tell you who it is. It is the guy I bought my '82 Brat from. Supposed to be perfect and wouldnt make the trip from San Diego to where I live without replacing both cv axles and removing one of the rears. Not to mention it was missing a motor mount bolt and the 5 speed looked like it was installed by a 5th grader. Heater motor didn't work and the radiator was shot, struts shot, rear shocks shot, silver spray paint all over the engine and hoses, vacume lines broken, timming wrong, I could go on, and this was a guy who put his word on it that it was perfect. Nothing is, but in this life, your word is all there is. 99.9% of the guys here are straight up about there stuff, even under rate it. Subaru3 is a perfect example of what I am talking about. His stuff is always better than he says, same with Ken, Mark and several others I could name. I will post them both in the market forum before they go away, Bradd

Hey Brian, if you really want a gen one Brat, drop me a line, Bradd

Hi Todd, I have those panels in my hot little hands, well actually they are in the shed with the rest of the stuff. Please don't get me wrong, I know what to expect when I look at a 180.00 dollar car. You roll the dice and take your chances. It just as easily could have been the score of the year. In this case, it wasn't. I don't blame anyone for anything. I failed to check the truck out before I left. That caused the dominos to start to fall. I take full responsibility. I wish it would have had another conclusion, and if the car had been worth saving, I would have had a hitch installed on the truck, and brought it back anyway. It was a judgement call, and I have no regrets. The man with the car had a bunch of cars, no other Subarus, and he was fairly accurate, but doesn't know anything about Subarus. For where he lives and where he is at, it was a great car. For us, looking for that gem that we know is out there, it was to far gone. There is nothing that can't be restored. However, with all the better candidates out there in need, it is far better to spend your time on a better target. I am affraid that soon, there will only be Brats, hatch's, and a few wagons. Of course they were and are the most sold. The offer still stands, but how long it will be there, I can not say. If there is anyone even thinking about it, time is slipping away, Bradd

Hi, you sure do. At one time, it was spark blue, now it is spray can gray. It has a nice sunbaked interior, of which, the plastic is wood grained as usual. It has 51,000 on the clock, but could be 151,000 or who knows. There were a lot of wires dangling under the dash. The front seats were there, but loose and the back one was fried by the sun. It has cracks coming through the bondo in the right rear quarter. It does run. It is in Melba Idaho, say didn't I write all this already? If you are really interested, fire me off an email and I will enlighten you, Bradd:banghead:

FREE. Just go and get it, but to anyone who wants it, let me know quick, Bradd

Hi fellow Subaru fanatics. I rented a 3/4 ton truck that was supposed to have a receiver hitch in it to go and get the GF. It was dark when I picked up the truck, and I didn't look. Mistake number one. Next, when I figured out what had happened, 300 miles from starting point, I thought, I'll just get a ball and a dolly and drag it home. Mistake number two. When I got to screw-haul, they informed me that they can not let a dolly leave on a bumper mounted ball, which I knew, but thought I would try anyway. So I inquired about a tow bar. They don't rent them anymore, but will gladly sell you one for a mere 150.00, and checked their computer and assured me it would bolt directly to a '79 GF. Mistake number 3. I then went to where the car was. It was fried from the sun and had a foo foo can spray job covering cracking bondo everywhere. The bumper in these cars is the spring loaded piles that the government made all the car companies put on cars about that time. It was not connected solidly to the frame. The mount holes are through the top of the bumper which totally rulled out using the screw-haul guaranteed to fit tow bar.:moon: Now I was really tired and pissed off. So I set to work stripping all the parts I could get off and loading them into the truck. I got tailights, grille, turnsignals, wheels, emblems, disty, coil unit, window waser, etc, etc. I thanked the man and went back to s-haul and returned the towbar. When they were unloading it, they neglected to remove the box with the pins and brackets and bolts. All they removed was the ball and the hitch. So I got that going for me. The wiring under the dash was fried, which is why they could not start it with the key. It can be had, but if anyone wants it, let me know pronto. It is in Melba Idaho, which is in the middle of nowhere southern Idaho. It was too much for me, so I came back. Parts included if anyone wants it. That is pretty much the story, it was a long 36 hours, but a nice try. I would do it again to rescue something worth rescuing. Thanks, Bradd:dead:

I have Ken's '78 Brat on the road, as well as an '80 daily driver. I do own a 79 GF coupe, but I am affraid it will not ever be a runner. There are a lot of gen 1 cars and Brats around this area, and I saw a bunch in Boise on Tuesday that were faded, but on the road. I think that google might be able to reveal the registration numbers, which I understand doesn't mean they are on the road, but might give an idea as to numbers. Good question Todd, Bradd

Hi, unfortunatly, this happens all to often in our cars. I have had this strike twice in the last month. On the first occasion, one of our members sold me a new lock with keys that I had a lock smith install. On the second occasion, I found a NIB set on the bay and installed it. Removal, driving with a screwdriver key for a while and a locksmith are the best route. The switch is held in the back by a single screw and will work as mentioned. It is a roysl pain to remove the lock mech. from the collum, but it can be done. Use a cut-off wheel to slot the broken off on purpose screws, and they will turn out with a screwdriver. I tried drilling them with an angle drill, but they are a little on the hard side and you will need screws anyway. Hope this helps, Bradd

Hi, actually gold is the best conductor of electricity. As far as paying for the irridum, I have a set in my Ea-71. I also changed the wires, cap, and rotor, with the acell high voltage coil. It does start a little faster, warms up a little quicker and runs good anyway. I put a set of plain old NGK's in and could not tell the difference. In my engine anyway, there is no difference. So, I am eith Ed, save your money, Bradd

Hi, having just gone through this, you mentioned a stock radiator. New? It may have looked great, but if it isn't new, I would start there. If it is new, then you will have to play with the fans and the thermostat until you hit the right combo. You may want to check with the airplane guys, they have solved all the non stock use problems, Bradd

Hi, I run a 32/36 on my Ea-71. It worked great right out of the box since it is in the middle of the range that the carb comes jetted for. They are easy to instal and set up. Cameron has all the info including building your own plate, which Redline sells for about 50.00. Buy a new one. There is usually a reason someone is selling a Weber cheap. They are a pretty daunting rebuild unless you are framiliar with 2bl carbs. At least the rebuild works, unlike the tatchi's. They are notorious for throttle shaft wear, which makes them awfuly tough to dial in. It is a good mod if you live in a non smog state. Makes it go like it did with the 13's only with big 14's, no difference in gas use if you keep your foot out of it. Not much if you don't. Make a crossover tube to connect the 2 hoses coming out of the valve cover and the kit has a place underneath the air cleaner to hook it up. Go for it, Bradd

Hi, I have done both. It really doesn't make a lick of difference that I can tell. The Accel makes it start in half a turn instead of a full turn and it does help when cold to open them up a little, but for the most part, you get a good spark either way, just my 2 cents worth, Bradd

Hi, are you using a EA-71? If so mail me, I have a spare with not much into it. It has 61,000 and was in the back of my Brat at the car show on the fourth, let me know, Bradd

Hi, the coil over idea looks remarkably like the shock set up on my Tamiya Hotshot. It seems to work the same way. I agree with the camber aproach mentioned above, this could be the start of a new/old way to lift things. Bradd

Now now Corky, I never said it did anything, just has it, Bradd:D

I knew you would be, Bradd;)

whatever

Hi Corky, point well taken, but the bottom line is I would have to change all the running gear for what would have been a spare transmission. I have a working D/R 5 speed now, and was going to rat hole one, bad habit. This one won't work for the oblivious reasons, and I don't want to give up 2 wheel drive. As to the fuse, my '98 Legacy with a 5 speed has it also, Bradd

Hi Brian, when the issue becomes the past, thats where it will stay. Until then, it is a concern to a lot of people that hate to see anyone of us, yourself, I'm sure included, in trouble over paperwork. If your going to get nailed, it ought to be for something real, thats all, Bradd

Hi, I am with Corky and Kevin, don't cut up a perfectly good hood. Now if you had an intercooler hiding under there, it would be different, but just to let water in your engine compartment? Bradd

Hi, glad you are wrenching again. Please get your license straightened out. The next podunk town you get busted in may not be as nice as this one was. There are a lot of people really concerned about this, not just giving you a hard way to go. I am sure it sounds like it, but I assure you on behalf of everyone involved, that is not the case. There are things in life that are a fact, and having a license to drive is one of them. I am as sorry as everyone that because you can drive, doesn't mean you can. Don't risk it man. It cost you half your summer, and some serious coin. You could let me in on the secret, I won't tell. You going to lift it? Dumb a-- question! Keep in touch, you got the number and the email address, Bradd

Hi, thanks dudes. It was as I figured, no 2 wheel mode and that sucks. Also, the ratio is 3.70, so the rear end would have to be changed, at least the ring gear, and that slows the off the line aspect. I think I will stick with what I have now, Bradd