subyfreak

So before I pull the pump assembly I would like to check for proper voltage. Could low voltage cause this? Also what wires on top of the pump assembly are for the pump? And I am worried about part of the assembly falling in the tank when pulling it. Is everything pretty securely attached to the assembly? Sorry for all the questions but being away from home doing this I want to make sure to do this right. Thanks again.

Yep I tried removing the gas cap. No such luck.

Thanks Nipper. I checked for fuel pressure before the fuel filter and it would squirt fuel when turning the key on but not much and not every time. about 5oz after 8 cycles of ignition switch on to off so it could be a weak pump. I always figured the pump either works or it does not. It has ran fine up until now for the last 15000 miles since buying it.

Thanks for the offer. I am in Traverse City MI so no dice there. I was thinking the sock could be plugged up. Does it all come out as one assembly with the fuel pump? I have a basic socket along with open end wrenches and a couple of screw drivers. And how do the fuel lines disconnect at the pump? Thanks for the quick reply.

I could really use some advice right now. I am about 400mi from home and car just stalled going down the road. It is a 01 Outback LLbean Wagon with 161000mi. No check engine light on when it was running. Will start right up and run smothly when spraying carb cleaner down tb but not under it's own fuel. Changed the fuel filter hoping to get lucky nope. Turn the key on and off and can hear the pump run but fuel only comes out of the now disconnected line every other cycle and not much at that. What I am wondering is where is could it be the fuel pump relay? If possible where is said relay located? To change the fuel pump do I need any special tools to remove the lines or change the pump out? I really need some guidence on this one and have about 4 days to get this figured out. Thanks everyone.

Welcome to USMB. You will have better results by posting in the Newer Generation section.

Nice score. It looks like the sedan version of my car.

I had this same problem. Sounds like the trans modulator is the problem as mentioned above. Easy to change. Just look on the side of the trans for a round cylinder shaped part with a vacuum line connected. Disconnect the line and look for trans fluid it should be dry.

Looks just like my first 3 door. Just without the rust. Nice find.

Thanks for the advice. I have towed many cars with cars before with out problems and know stopping is the major issue here. Also I have to cross the Mackinac Bridge lol. My main concern was with the drive shaft being able to just unbolt it from the rear diff so I can dolly it. I will be doing this at night time to avoid most traffic and half of my trip will be across the upper peninsula of Michigan so traffic and big cities are not a problem just deer/bear/elk. I will let you guys know how it all turns out.

I have the chance to get a 96 Outback Wagon with a auto trans and a healthy rod knock for free. The problem is I live 400 miles away and only have limited funds right now. Is the driveshaft in this car a 2 piece unit and if it is can I remove the rear section and put it on a dolly? (Yes I did a search on here first:rolleyes:) The car doing the pulling will be my 01 H6 outback but first I need a hitch for it. Anybody know of decent aftermarket hitches for the 01 Outback wagon? I will be heading down to the area in April so I have some time to find one. The plan is to put a EJ22 in it. What years are a plug and play swap? Sorry for all of the questions I just want to be sure. Thanks for any help on this.

Can't stop buying Subarus. Must buy them all. Must do it now. All kidding aside they are getting more difficult to find in this area. You can thank the price of scrap last summer/fall. Lots of poor Subarus died for a couple hundred dollars. I have considered moving to a differant state just to be able to find a few that are not held togeather with bondo and racing tape.

With a decent non-fartcan muffler I think you will enjoy the music this engine plays. Just save your old muffler as I can't imagine it is easy to find and Subaru might just want an arm/leg/testicle for one if you ever want to go back to factory set up. Check youtube under svx exhaust as the engine sound is pretty close to what we have.

I just had to open up my 01 H6 by unbolting the rear muffler/tailpipe assy. and noticed very little low end loss while gaining about as much up top. The sound near red line is quite intoxicating (think non turbo 911). I plan on getting a spare rear exhaust section and getting a better flowing muffler to make it easier to switch back if I ever get tired of the sound (don't think so). I am pretty sure that the muffler is the only difference with the H6 exhaust after the cats.

Working fine now. Love those WRC wheels:slobber:.

sounds like neat info but your link is not working correctly.

If you decide against going with the EA82T could you give me some info on it? I live in Michigan and have a 86 GL Turbo with a EA81 in it and would like to put the right engine back into it. Thanks in advance.

I never claimed these cars to be sports cars and in fact think their handling is far from great. And please don't assume I have never owned a lifted Subaru. I have had a 86 wagon with aluminum spacers all around that gave it about 4.5 inches of lift and with the taller tires required to keep it from looking funny I noticed a difference in handling that I felt was not worth the added clearance or the hey look at me I am a lifted car sensation. I am sure your lifted brat handles just fine for you and I am sure it could go places my unlifted ride could never go but my intentions are not offroad ability it is making do with what I have and getting the most out of it while having a bit of fun. I again am not looking to upset anyone here as I feel we all have something in common with our Subarus. I was only voicing my opinion based on the many types of Subarus I have owned.

Higher center of gravity/taller truck type tires and still handle corners as well as a non lifted street tire equiped car. Then please sign me up for a physics defying lift kit. Oh and I think I have mastered the art of pushing or more like standing on the skinny pedal owning a 89hp car lol.

I happen to like my adjustables. In the winter I can gain some much needed clearance for the unplowed roads and in the summer still be able to corner worth a damn. Can't do both with a lift. Just my 2 cents on the subject based on my experience. Not here to argue about it or to bash other people either.

Did you stop to tell Bullwinkle there is no hitchhiking allowed? I recently saw my first black bear in the wild last fall. He was also looking for a ride. (Just missed him)

Very good looking wagon glad you held onto it. tell your city they have horrible taste wanting to tow it.

Yes You can reuse Subaru head bolts. Make sure to tighten them in the proper sequence and torque.

Just make sure you have the heads checked for warping/cracks. I think you will find replacing the head gaskets on this engine are not all that difficult once you get everything out of the way. If you have any troubles or questions just post them here as there are quite a few people with lots of experience here that don't mind helping a fellow Subaru owner. Best of luck.

Welcome to USMB. Sounds like you are getting air pockets in the cooling system from the combustion process (leaky HG) witch will restrict coolant flow and result in overheating. Is there times when your heater just stops blowing warm air? I had a 91 with a bad HG that would idle all day without a problem but as soon as I drove it the temp would start rising and the heater would stop producing heat while puking out the overflow tank. Any external leaks? Hopefully it is just the waterpump or a hose leaking.