subyfreak

Lots of reasons to like that 95. Most of all is the ej22 engine in it. One of the best engines made by Subaru. If I remember correctly the 95 2.2 was still a non-interference engine also. Finding one with a 5sp is also a bonus. If the body is not rotten and the price is right you can not go wrong.

+1 on doing away with the air ride. If you are looking for a little bit of a lift outback struts would also be a replacement option.

When I saw that car on E-bay my heart skipped a couple of times. If it was closer to home I would have been all over it. Very nice find.

Thanks for the clarification subiemech85. I can sleep now.

Originally Posted by TheSubaruJunkie You can find a LSD in EVERY RX. They are also optional for all EA82's but the 3.7 gear ratio kept them limited to 3.7 transmissions which were full time 4WD. So RX's and 1988 to 1989 GL10 Turbo Wagons & Sedans with Full Time 4WD transmissions may have them. So from what I understand from reading this my dual range 5sp does not have a 3.7 gear ratio? Or is the DR considered a full time 4WD? The car has a 3.7 LSD and had a broken front cv shaft when I saved it from the crusher. It had a EA81 put in it before I got it but other than that I figured the trans and rear were original. The car in question is a 87 3dr Turbo. Some one please tell me they made a 3.7 DR 5sp so I can put a axle back in it. Thanks.

I would hardly call the justy beautiful. and a bug eye wrx over say a 04 sti why? They must have eaten lots of shrooms the day they wrote that. I did like the rest of them though.

I am running them right now on my 01 Outback. Worthless in the colder seasons and not any noticeable improvement over the cheapies in the summer. I wont be buying them again.

If you post some pics of the RX it would help. Ok so it wont help your problem just mine as I have a RX fetish. Keep us updated please.

Check the resale on most Dodge products. Most are designed to be disposable vehicles. And when the people on a car forum website know they have a inferior product they tend to get a little defensive when another brand gets brought up. I get a lot of crap from friends and family that are die hard big 3 people for owing Subarus. Most have never driven or owned one.

Jack up the car and see if your wheels are easy to turn by hand and the brakes not dragging or just drive it and check the wheels to see if one is getting hot. Possibly e-brake not releasing all of the way? Just some ideas.

Check the front shaft on the passenger side. The inner joint sits right above the cat converter and gets lots of heat. I have also seen some posts about poor quality new axle shafts making vibrations/weird noises so read up before you buy any axles. Hopefully it is only a bad axle and not a trans/diff problem.

+1 on the axle shaft. I have had the inner joint make noise like you describe. Just to be safe check the trans/front diff. fluid. $1300 is a little high for a car making grinding noises of any kind unless the body is perfect and has lower miles.

Suby+Air cooled Porsche engine=very cold heater.

If it has a spoiler it could be a GL Turbo. If it is it should also say GL Turbo on the rear hatch and along the lower sides of the car. But my guess is a regular GL 3door coupe. Still good looking and getting hard to find.

Now go and crawl under the car and plug the fuel lines and snip some wires and after he replaces the timing belts and can't get it running offer him $100 for it.

My 01 Outback H-6 recently developed a fuel odor on the drivers side of the engine. I checked for any dripping or puddles the best I could without removing everything on that side of the engine bay (can't even see the injectors it is so crowded.) but found nothing. The smell has since went away but it still worries me as it is my wife's daily driver. Sounds like this problem is also found on the H-6 engines of those years.

That put a smile on my face. Does it have a LSD in the back? Either way nice sedan and video.

Your friend won't come down 7 dollars on the price? Nice um friend.

Sounds like one of the speed sensors stopped working. I believe your car has two of them one to tell if there is a difference in front to rear wheel speed and one for the rest of the readings. If your car is a automatic and this sensor quits working it is quite possible your awd will not engage along with the inoperable cruise and abs. Anybody know how to test\locate this sensor?

Sounds like you have the right idea. Just remember rust needs oxygen so seal it and it will stop. When I am short on time and money or its just to cold for painting I have had good luck with clear silicone sealant. The cheap stuff from walmart in the white tube for use with a caulk gun is what I use. Its nothing pretty or permanent but it will stop the rust until the weather gets warmer.

I have ran into nasty corroded green crap on the connector behind the drivers side kick panel along with the ones under the passenger seat on about 4 of my older ea82 Subies. You wont always see the damage without unplugging the connectors and looking close.

$400 for a solid body sounds like a great project. Just pick the one you like most and let the fun begin.

I have had the crank pulley come off my old EA82. Messed up the key way pretty bad. Did not know it was a common problem. Dead of winter when it happened cold cold walk.

I did not see the crusher in any of those pics so I would say Subaru Heaven.

I think the price is fair. The low miles and VDC are not all that common. No known major problems with the drive train on this model. And you are getting a car that went for 30000 new.