subyfreak

Thats what I was thinking. If anything I can always use more parts since I will always have a Subaru or three.

I don't really know much about the history on this car. I saved it from the junk yard for $200.00 and drove it home. It needed ball-joints and a rear CV-shaft and some cosmetic work so with 200000 miles on it I figured the previous owner just wanted something newer and there would not be this much wrong with it. My bad. I can see the potential in the car and still think it is worth saving. It is still really solid where it needs to be (pretty rare up in the salt belt!) and I like having something different. Although I will pay the price for parts! There is a guy around here that works on nothing but Subaru so I will take it to him and have him check it out. Thanks again for all of your help it's nice to have a place where all of us can go for help.

I pulled the neg. battery cable for about 30min to clear the codes. While I was waiting I traded the coil pack and plug wires with my 92 Legacy. After hooking up the battery I started the car and let it idle for 15min. No problems running great. Took it for a drive and after about 5min of driving it starts missing when I get into it a little. after 10min of driving it is missing more than not. Get it home and it is idleing rough. No cel light the whole time. Any ideas now?

Here is the list of codes that flashed when I connected the black diag. wires. 13 cam angle sensor 14 injector #1 15 injector #2 17 injector #4 21 water temp sensor 22 knock sensor 23 air flow sensor 42 idle switch Is this possible? And the car still runs. Thinking possible ecm problems now. Any way to confirm this?

I have a non turbo coil pack that I will try. There is a slight difference in design but they both have the same connector. While driving the car today to get some fresh fuel and injector cleaner through it the cel came on. I will check it out when I swap the coil packs. Thanks again.

As I am typing this there is about 4in and it's still comming down real good! Almost made myself sick spinning so many doughnuts.

say it is the ecu can a non turbo ecu be used?

There is a 96 Legacy Postal 5sp around here but is still in service. It's really rusty so I will follow it around until it starts dropping the parts you need! Just wanted to let you know there is right hand drive Legacy postal 5 speeds around. Best of luck.

I can almost smell the new car scent while looking at the interior pics. Hope you enjoy your new family member.

I just went from a 2.5in pipe with out converter or resonator to stock pipe with converter, resonator, and a free flowing muffler and noticed how much low end power I was missing. The 2.2 NA engines seem to like a little back pressure. But now I miss the wake the neibhors piss off old people rally car sound track! Just my 2cents.

Thanks for the advice. I just changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter and still no differance. The cheapest turbo fuel injector I can find is around $85. I will see if anyone around here can clean one. If any one else has some ideas on why my car runs like this please post it.

I have a 91 Legacy Turbo that I think needs a injector. It will idle fine sometimes but under load it runs on 3cylndrs. It is getting spark and when it is running rough if I disconnect the #2 injector wires it makes no differance. The question. Is the non-turbo legacy injector of the same year the same as a the turbo injector in my 91? There are no turbo legacy parts around here but plenty of non-turbos. Thanks for the help

I would also check the wiring connectors under the kick panel on the front drivers side. My 92 had lots of green crap on the connectors in this area. After cleaning and reconnecting a few wires the windows go up and down much quicker.

I will try and post a sound clip but the problem does not always show up. Most times it happens when many people can hear it. Is my car just mad at me? It mostly happens after being run at the upper end of the rpm range for a long time like going down the road at 80mph or just shifting at 6000rpm. Yes I know the answer is to slow down and drive like a granny but I just wanted to know if others have had the same problems and if I should lose sleep over it. Like I said the engine is quiet and runs smooth other than the few seconds of knock. Uses less than 1 quart of oil between oil changes. Thanks again to all who replied.

If you want some sound just use a cherrybomb if not use a turbo by the same brand. I was surprised with the nice music the cherrybomb makes. It is not too loud if you still have your cats on. $20.00 is about as cheap as you will get for each. Let everyone hear that you don't drive a Honduh!

Also check out Beretta, Cavalier, Sunbird, Grand Am and all of the brothers to these cars . I am running Beretta Z-26 16in. wheels and they fit great and they stick out just enough to line up with the body the centers fit the hubs perfectly also. Just make sure you get the smaller bolt pattern that GM uses not the bigger ones like off Luminas, Bonnevilles, Celeberty and all of the copys to those cars.

I am looking for some ideas on what is causing this knocking sound during start up. Example I drive to the store and get everything up to operating temp no knock turn car off and go into store for about 5-15min. start car and it knocks for about 10 seconds or until I get it over 2500rpms. It also likes to do this more after a fresh oil change:confused: I have tried different weights of oil and also added Lucas to the oil thinking the thicker oil would prevent the lifters from bleeding. The car is a 92 Legacy with a 2.2 and 5sp. also has 210000 miles on it. Other than this it runs and sounds great. Anyone else have this problem? Can the lifters on this engine have a deep knock that could confused with a connecting rod knock? Thanks in advance to all that have a answer.

The first gen Legacys are easy to maintain and require little of it compared to most other domestic cars (like that is any news to most fellow owners). Just the normal fluid changes like any car. I just broke 200,000 no problems on stock engine 92 2.2L 5sp. AWD (never apart). Keep an eye on the rear frame sections and x-member as they like to rust where they use rust fertelizer (salt:mad: ) on the roads. All around great car with bulletproof engine. Best of luck:headbang:

For that engine with those miles you pretty much bought a new car for 3 grand! Congrats. And many happy miles to you.

They quite possibly had the first lifted Subarus in the Traverse City area and are great people to deal with. I also saw they had a dual range 5sp in a Legacy. They know a thing or two about Subarus.

check the metal plate that goes behind the mirrors. I got alot of wind noise from that area and when I looked really close I noticed the rubber was cracked. They are not to much of a pain to replace. Just go to your local salvage yard and get them. I would also price the weather stripping while you are at the salvage yard before you pay dealer prices. Best of luck to ya.

Welcome to one of the most knowledgable Subaru sites around. Look around on this site and you will find a answer for just about any question you have.

Your problem sounds like no problem at all. My 92 5mt does the same. I believe there is a clutch that sends more power to the rear wheels as needed.

I would check the wiring for the aftermarket radio first. It sounds like your 12volt memory (always on) and your 12volt switched wires are connected. And then spliced into the wiper wiring. Just a guess from seeing some messed up installs this sounds like a hack-and-tape nightmare. Best of luck.

92 Legacy l Wagon 5sp 2.2 210000 miles and still going great. Original engine (never opened) and trans (starting to get sloppy). Driven very hard daily. Rust is taking it's toll on the rear underside and I would not think twice about putting money into the car when it finaly needs it if it were more solid. By far the best car I have owned. And I have had many. If yours is solid KEEP IT!