jono

Yes. Agreed. Although been running EA82 12 years this is my first rebuild on one. Done a few EA81 and other non boxers. The instructions on box of rings sort of comes into too much info . Four points all 30° off midline all makes sense Had a look at the gaps of pistons and rings that came out. They didn't stay at 30° Thanks for your lone input

I am reading piston ring install instructions advising ring gaps not be on thrust side. If our boxers operate clockwise from front thrust is said to be left side of bore So...this would make 1 & 3 thrust side the lower side of bore/piston and top side for 2 & 4 ? Correct?

Surely everyone else sees Thomas the tank engines Japanese cousin??....b

Bleeding on your own is possible but need an old plastic bottle with hole in its lid for clear PVC hose from bleed nipple. An air breath hole in lid is also handy. I use an inch of rubber hose to fit tightly over nipple and PVC hose at its other end. Trick is then to have upward travel up before then drain down into bottle. This way you can monitor any air bubbles coming out and helps reduce/prevent air sneaking back in while not looking. This way you can go blast pedal as required. No need to buy one man bleeder valve kit

Thanks for the Gregory's input - totally forgot their opinion ! Looking at my factory manuals for Series One again the diagram with no gaps above centre line is in the ohv section. The ohc section has gaps above.the centre line and the diagram # in both books is the same L2-179 Fell for the old two engine models in the same manual trick The Series Two manual is XT specific so does not contain ohv stuff. Fortunately Fuji didn't do any ohv XTs. What a thought !!

The ring gap placement differs for the EA82 pistons for 85/86 models to 87 in the factory manuals. Pistons do also Anyone know if the 87 position ing is an upgrade on earlier method or just to suit piston change? I can make options wlorse if I read a general instruction sheet I kept from EA81 build and they were followed using Volvo spec rings. Earlier tends to keep all gap placements below the centre line whereas the latter are all 30° off the centre line

Feedback is what we like . Nice looking old beast. Is the colour the same as your bike or some optical digital illusion?

PS. Found a CD version of manuals on ebay for six bucks so this should help demystify some wiring

built in plastic clips say for dash removal . I am not of the EA were crap [engine or whole car] but I have hardly driven EJ stuff further than 15km whether-t be a B4 Liberty with the lot, or a FWD EJ beater and wasn't too impressed by my RX with ,250,000 km on everything - even the air in tyres felt real old and just waiting for the right frame of mind to give my bored and hone EA82T casings a bubble bath before checking ring gaps. Did one ring and found it to have 15 thou gap about the lowest point in bore - which fits in nice with the 3 to 4 thou per bore diameter inch rule of thumb that I found in old set of rings instructions. Got made in Japan NPR set with chromoly top ring. Mind you , I received a set of taps I bought off ebay from China. Complies to JIS [Japanese standard ?] says made in Japan, and posted out of Germany

That was Discopotato03 !

while the topic of FPR's is on the table... the GF8 I have been tinkering with...while it was running I wondered how it would run at idle if I just pulled its vacuum supply off nothing happened other than finding the factory two layered hose was not the old MY or L series tight/stuck on like never letting go - it could almost have been a vacuum leak source! Then the hose just broke in my fingers revealing black inside, grey outside - snapped again just like a rubber hose dipped in dry ice then given a whack From this point on I wont be trusting EJ era vacuum hoses !

Can see the benefits of an Impreza dash with air but holy heck it must be job to trim the right bits, wire it all up. But you know I prefer the MY era of assembly. The L Series was the start of plastic clips n crap

Aha the pair I thought may be lighter have a brown relay between them. I need some quiet time to find ecu pinout for starters

so. if you have a link to an e-resource of the 9.99 made 2.0 EJ20 ECU I will be a little closer. If only the loom did not look so fat ! looking at each plug there is not so many wires as first thought, just how the rest of the wiring loom for the car merges under tape n stuff ....

If you can , measure the Volts at the battery before another alternator goes in. Should read 13.8 to 14.2 V. I have found many on their way out only read 12V and work fine if used daily. leave them a few days, batt flattery .... Mind you, one alternator I bought at great expense, only after its warranty expired, did I find it still only put out 12 V !! This is why I bought my next reco from Rock. Cheaper and cant easily go in and abuse them ...h a ha

Think the others are headlights. So very familiar pulling this car apart....so much MY/EA81 construction about them. My hat goes off to the guy who got impreza dash into Brumby. Whole thing is three inches wider!

whoops, bit late. Engine, box and diff are now out, but I think I can remember a lot of the loom stuff so labels it will be Found two relays, one pink plug, other blue plug, suspect they are ign and pump relays as the other pair of relays have a third relay in yellow plastic housing and think they are lights. Gonna put the front bumper on the market - hey it almost makes a car look like a wrx ! Just the little orange vents up front - $50 each plus postage ! Maybe I could just fit the engine back in ?? Still got power windows working. Both up and down are handy at the moment. Snaffling all the alloy to cash in Fun ?? I have such sore fingertips. I think this body is gonna get the tambox disposal method, cut it up into manageable bits for the trailer to avoid disposal pick up fees

No one knows? I used some fuel cleaner and just let it work its magic as it idled and revved on the spot through the day. Gave it one new plug just in case. Much better, but problem still there occasionally. Engine is now out for storage. Car to be parted out

Try precision international for rings Bennie They supplied some Japanese made rings for my EA82T review last week. Actually before re-ring bores best be inspected for heat spots show up as round blemishes in my case Cast as opposed to chromoly for best bed in, though chromoly will last better if you can bed them in rev better too Every re-ring I have done I have used a flexible and splashed lots of Kero ( not ya wife!) about then handy Andy scrub clean before rebuild. Never a drama. Flexhone flexhone get it right !! Only once you have rings measure gaps in bore top middle and lowest point. Race engines use bigger gaps and is all worked out on per bore inch

I would buy another just to tinker with burning thing you lost Maybe drop same down a rental car intake :evil:

Here in Australia we had a guy use dealer supplied cleaner , so intent on trying it as soon as he got it used it in the street. Stalled the engine never to start again due to dealer stuff not being snake oil, dissolved carbons and gunk, then because could not be burnt off got stick up valves/guides Poor thing was towed home, stripped and parted out. This was by an intelligent and thorough guy who could possibly have taught engineering given his abilities. You would kick yourself if you took anyone's advice contrary to finding it before start up. Are you sure it went in and not lost below outside engine intake?

Well, done more than look at...I bought it...this series in wagon has always been a favourite of mine and thought deep about registering it ...then had recollections of Project Cheap Grief circa 2006. It was a GLTA intended only as a donor for turbo Brumby project but ended up keeping it in the road over 8 years and extended its 188,000 km !Ife another 110,000 km This delayed the outstanding project at hand...so, to sort its miss ....not compression, possibly original lead or coil causing stuff. One black plug and overdose of fuel cleaner fixed that and much of the miss. Replaced one China made Bosch plug with Russian Bosch plug..seemed to improve. First Bosch plug I have bought in over 25 years. Might try some Denso if I get motor in an MY body. Engine is out now staring at this wiring loom after near jack hammering HVAC stuff out of the way. This needs a big bench, a diagram and no disturbances ! Yeah, put an EJ in it ....so much work in it !! Dealer confirmed 3.9 rear diff. Has been serviced by same dealer for half its life, other dealers for another quarter and just a bit let go lately though still engine services kept up

With your name on it

Must be best starting point having driven the donor home instead of pulling bits in a wreckers yard full of weeds, mud., dust and dog poo Happy finding donor GF8 RX Impreza has full dealer service history for 80% of its life. New belts tensioners and water pump @ 200.000 km Poo load of wires at the ECU for just four cylinders !! Just like liberty/legacy donors the entire dash and HVAC needs come out first to get the loom. I just want to identify the powhite from ignition to ecu and the earth wiret. Erk. Not as simple as Just put an EJ in If only the ecu loom metwith the engine plugs and few wires to fuel pump and ignition and your off Third loom lucky this timeStarted with ej16 and loom years ago. Birds nest. Chucked the lot ! Also pulled ej22 and loom. Bundled up somewhere half stripped This one is gonna go but not in a month of weeks Just so many wires seem to ho nowhere near engfunctions of ej22Figuree this GF8 will be same Not into cut down service as this budget will be tight or I will just go EA82 high comp or something So who can give fown experience what to look for, test and tag as I pull this loom ? I essentially need to get running on petrol beforI snip a pump wire and hook up the propane found with the other looms once start pulling wrap and snipping wires out becomes a mess Not wantmess to transfer

Can you do a compression test before fiddling with valve clearances? Tell us what firing order you have checked.