jono

Std height gets a smidge off the lower flute of dizzy rocker cover, usual inverted pic . Then a coat of "propane green"

Mixture must just be coming on to a power sweet spot. I get this if I have asked too much of too little fuel with my propane systems

Yep. Heard of this, thanks. Heads going on are underlined ones. Keeping in mind Subaru service bulletin on these cracks. These were crack tested and passed. To find boxed ea82 heads here be like AWD 5mt with a decent centre diff. I got 110,000 km out of last incarnation of this engine. On welded heads, and they need to be assessed again one day Sitting about must have done its damage.

I think manufacturing shifted to Spain years ago. Your complaint also rumoured to be found in British manufacturing in the 70's

If the O2 sensor signal is not received at ECU the default is to go rich to protect leanout damage. If that is any help? I run an O2 reader led bar graph in the dash to see all the time ( and I don't even have an ecu !)

Another good thing about Fuji, still sell some obscure parts for thirty year old cars. $1.28 ! That's half what Rock want for the cap and seal already adhesed in ! Was thinking of a fill tube deletion altogether but would be painful for oil changes and top ups

I am envisioning a carcase hanging to bleed out ....same should be done to an engine to be stored. In the better light I am inspecting the bores of my low mileage stump puller that if I didn't pull out of my GLTA this EA82T Brumby would never get off the ground It was in good nick on pull out, four years later gets fitted out for the Brumby then a weep of green stuff at turbo side exhaust gasket at head Heads are blamed. Of with its heads. Other hoarded heads are cleaned up and ready to go on, when in the sunlight I could see a nicely steam cleaned piston top and a line, no, two lines in the bore The bore looked a little dark, felt rough as poo to my fingers, and hang on, is that a tide mark on the piston top, its not piston but pistoff : While this pristine example of EA82T sat, obviously unable to have drained all its coolant out for some reason, it has got into one pot, I have started her up in the Brumby yet not driven and started to clean the rust up in the bore. Short story is took me 30 minutes to strip it further in a hurry. Case halves now in shop for a 40 thou 1.0mm rebore. Got some EA82T slugs hoarded since 2009 to go in These were earmarked for another project.....

Got similar from US or other newspapers same era?

Hang the justification...what a great way to really feel that EG33 @ work with a manual box in it ! Not got too many projects??

Careful if you modify coolant path. In off or COLD blue setting the tap bypsses coolant rather than send it through heater core. It don't shut entire coolant path off. EA82 did away with tap entirely so coolant must have kept cores hot and clean under all conditions, just not direct air over core and into cabin on cold setting. Block off an ej heater core and will cause weird overheating ....wondering if ea81 would do same if you blocked of as well ...here is aus we can get cheap plastic four pipe bypass type tap with vacuum control instead of cable. Been successfully used in EA81 I hear

Just challenge them to a rear shock change over. I swear the early ones at least, went in before body connected to the chassis. No access hole from above, extremely limited side access. Mate ended up lifting body off chassis about 6 mm to make dirty job possible !! Five point five hours entertainment !!

I saw Gannon's repair using 1/16" size stainless. I got the impression he had to reach deep into his pockets for the bits and taper tap. I thought if I stuffed up a reducer bush in the block may have been a ticket out of it. Good to hear others doing this. Used to be a fear of these problems in old Subes

Customer loyalty gets customer service ...the boss was out and the boys had time to do a proper machine shop test - vacuum - not YouTube baloney soap bubbles Machinist pointed out as soon as shove air pressure into valve ports you are starting to open the valve. Vacuum goes other way as if it is the combustion chamber. They are excellent ! Cleaning and assembly can begin

The Bosch generic EFI external fuel pump ending in 070 is a common one for people and Dunes. I got a 910 ending Bosch part number. Very heavy made in Czech. Waiting on inline prefilter

I got to that level of desperation in the end Bennie. I know when I am beat. I have seat cutters that are 50's or 60's stuff but the jigger that sits in the valve guide is too fat for these newer Japanese makes. Valve grinding tool we had went in the bin months ago - same vintage - and just try getting new stones and belts for it .... Heads are going in just with valves to tru$ted engineers of 35 years acquaintance. I'll stick the seals n newer springs on to save some coin Turbo heads EA82 underscored set from 87 Vortex and given the time and parts involved I don't really want to be removing heads for at least 150,000 km What with this engine in bits, just a few gearboxes..things close to getting out of hand

One of my least thought about repair jobs. Saw the problem, grabbed a few bits and tools and into it. Cold chisel to belt out on the flange.... drilled 8.5 mm hole, think it was the 28 you bspt tap and screwed in the 45° elbow. Just needs a short barb to finish the job off....and just hope it clears the inlet manifolds underbelly

Yes, somick that tube there is the 3oz tube version of the 1.5 oz tube I bought with the outdated instructions referring to two grit size process. Paid A$11.99 for it off the shelf No grit size stated on mine. This product did beaute job on the inlets, the exhausts may be harder material - being factory turbo exhaust valves they are different to aftermarket. Just need to make room on a bench rather than kneel over, gut compressing vital organs, cardboard under knees compressing back to hard ..body not in comfortable work position to really get the weight into the job . Lazy way of a drill driving valve rotationally in one direction is I dunno, against my learnings, and the clapped out 50 year old made in Sydney tool is air powered and jiggle valve head backwards forwards in small movements. One direction gets a bad {maybe unwarranted wrap on utube}

Seen the Clover brand but think its only in 500gram (testicle ball park pricing) on order. I had time to test results, found results improved when I used springs to pull valve shut The inlets are bubble free, the exhausts, well, aren't. Going for the dried out two in one fine section next try It is just fine. Grit size would be TMI for the average consumer

maybe a hair dryer NOT a heatgun, might help soften the plastic of the wire. I doubt the copper has work hardened

I'm guessing there not too many that give their subes a valve lap ?? Given the double ended tube I share is about 50 years old and the fine grit end is empty , time to buy my own and keep it to myself Not too many choices out their in car parts world I looked at Permatex #80036. Comes as a water based sealed aluminium tube, only one end, so only one grade Instructions on the rear say to start with coarse 120 grit, finish up with fine grit 220 Only problem is the tube is one grade all through, does not state anywhere on packaging or tube as to whether it is fine or coarse OK, so I bought it anyway. The only consumer contact detail in the back is in the US, not Australia Thanks to the world of www I was able to shoot off an enquiry, but I guess if they are dealing with enquiries from their world market, this EA82 is gonna have more whiskers on it by the time they get back to me. Some super sleuthing found the Australian wing of the mother company, and took a few calls before I spoke to the best informed tech enquiries guy ever The packaging card is out of date and refers to the old product that was two grades, just has not been updated to match the product, so possibly the safety notices also not compliant ? I used the product with the good old hand powered suction capped tool and in no time the blackened pitting of my EA82T heads valve seats with 172,000 km on them were looking so much better. But, what about the coarse fine differences? Apparently the coarseness of this product breaks down to a finer grader as you finish off - bit more pressure I suppose. Or, it was suggested a wet n dry of same desired 220 or so grit to finish to a nice polish ? Hang putting the heads in for a service. Already had them pressure tested and shaved. Got new seals from our friends at Rock. The other woe with this type of product was another brand - Australian company that sells a double ended tube. Every one I inspected seemed a little light on in volume and as it turned out - weight. It took a few days and a few calls to get to the bottom of this...seeing as though it is water based, it has dried out through the seemingly air tight cap and left a near dried out base product. The way these tubes stood in store, made the coarse end look full as it was on the bottom, fine end look depleted or pilfered - due to no anti theft type packaging or anti evap wrap either. I returned tto the shop I purchased it from, asking if they wanted to keep a customer happy just flog product from one tube to top mine up to the 60g as stated. Wouldn't be in it, and offered a refund. So I took the refund, more in protest to them not having tech advice at hand for two days . Stiff, you need to add water to base product to use it ... I prefer sealed cap and packet of the Permatex thanks ! Time to assemble to give it the soapy water in the chamber trick and give the ports some air, or petrol in the ports and see if it seals nice JumPs off soap box

Guess what readers. The pin is 6.00mm diameter. I don't think Fuji followed anyones rules .... I have tried rare earth finger clanging magnets to no avail. I did get the heat gun from its packaging and warmed up the casing , and figuring if you grabbed the metal pin with ice cold Vise Grips with really good teeth, it must shrink it enough to come out ...And I got the little sucker. Yee..bloody..HA ! Milwaukee'd the hole in the side, all on a spare gearbox casing 3/16 hole ....US not supply metric hex drive drill bits in Oz yet My supply of grease nipples is pre metric, probably before Australian threads made a stand against Whitworth, so popped into SCA and found someone had pilfered one of two M6 nipples in a two pack. Suited me ..needed one...paid for just one Giving credit to CZNY for this approach...it is a long time since I have used grease to hydraulic things out. This little sucker is 8.00 mm long. In practice unit I marked out 10mm below surface and drilled the 3/16 and like any seasoned tunneler - came up at perfect spot, tearing the dimpled bottom out of the locating pins hole !! More later, when things are done

wisdom comes with age and a few stuff ups Bennie I want to be able to drive one of these boxes at least. The little capsule shaped interlocks, I only pulled two from where manual indicates should be three When I pull gearboxes apart, I would prefer to be inside a sealed fridge box or something to at least catch the little bits that try to bugger off from me ! I did find this latest box was not a "nuts up" example so figure someone has been in it before. Turning the main guts case on its side, out popped what looks like a roller bearing pin about 12mm long, about 3mm diameter Absolutely no hidea where it came from, and whether it came from where it shouldn't be , or not This latest was an mpfi 5MT DR PT 4WD and it was a text book case when it came to the start of undoing bits - whereas the FT4WD DR box did not half, or give me half the trouble this latest one did. BUT, the anti reverse mystery cylinder popped out for me. Only second time this has happened. Mentor Tambox will be on my case if I don't get things right !!

Maybe doing look at conversion..fusible links? It turn over? You not saying specifically

Yep czny , precisely but still need the rare genius to come up with knowing where to drill said hole. So far nobody stating the length of this little sucker I tried to order a new pin. No such part number. Dealer says in the day if you ordered a new case get the pin already installed I don't know, where have all the knowledgeable ones gone?

Ok. So what if I used an emoji ?!! Somehow can't delete it even though touching it gave it a square nwse halo, then a blue square, still could not x it out!