jono

Only pulled two capsule shaped interlock plungers but three are shown on diagram

Thanks Bennie, I must have been too preoccupied with things to see this post of your industrial strength drying rack and notes. Now thatI have four or is it five? various boxes in bits about the place ( could be aasking for a really bad rebuild there ) i now have a LHS case i need not care about, 5R shift rod out - cannot see either a direct line from outside up into detent spring ball and plug hole to under the locating pin that has sunk into its safety bunker. So some right angle drilling will likely take place. BTW, i am writing in international English am i not? Was expecting input from oud host country ??

Now, after that little message from our sponsors( because phones and toilets do not mix) I removed the forks in gear number order 1-2 , 3-4 then 5R though it has me why factory manuals have " removing 5th shifter fork" as the first step & diagram !! But Fuji's English is way better than my Japanese ...

Keeping on topic of gearbox and those shift rods and capsule shape detent things - they are in the cast iron piece holding 5R and 3.4 rods in a relation ship and in the casing at right angles to the shift rods at the line of three detent plugs on the outside. Stripped my spare spare 25 splined NA mpfi box to the nth degree as far as shifters rods are concerned with -3° air temp and sunlight on my back to observe the fit rods back in process and capsule shaped detents go before any rods go in

Many newer dealers can't deal with older part numbers as they don't have old books to get part numbers from to even make a start in the order process. The part might be available even exjapan type order but if dealer can't get part number you may be told no longer available. This is where rocks data base can be handy to get genuine part numbers from. Have a look now, see if you can get rcg part number and quick call to dealer parts and quote the number for price and availability. Don't mention rock! Usually find very helpful because you have done hard work to get number

now , bending the prongs is a good idea - thanks for sharing ! I just got my shipment from Rockauto via a 5 year sojourn in WA state. Had two US made oil filler caps in it. new seals Meanwhile I stuffed more glue under the seal in the cap, painted it a sexy yellow to make it look more modern - driver only need check yellow things ....

there you go, ask for advice, get more differing opinions than you could think of...now is it worse ?? The EA81 has so few parts, cant think what GD cant get !! The only negative I can think of about the EA81 is on the battery post !!

I once had same with a Mazda TC 1300cc engine. Went to buy the alternator ended up driving the car home and all over the place with this mad loud solid knock. Stripped engine to find little end bush spread everywhere. Had a machine shop knock up a bush for the one rod, slapped it all back together and found more noise, pulled apart again to do other three little ends. Back together. Noise still there. head off, valves out, found loose valve seat, so tried a super expoxy glue to hold it in - in my learning days :D. Worked for an hour or so. head off again to centre punch material of head to retain valve. back together with fourth new head gasket. Engine ran so sweet after all that and showed no signs that it had grated little end from Arthur to Martha internally beforehand. Based on this experience. I say go for fixing up yer old EA81 As for daily driver, I have been in GEN2 Brumbies for twenty years. Not only love their loyalty but their clear view all around for the driver in respect to traffic. Just that I am on my third one should not denigrate the fact they have been faithful for over a total of more than 600,000 km for me, despite being well used but rescued

noticed it is on my EA82T import cam boxes on the topside. never recall taking notice of them ever before !

photos coming up !! watch this space

Oh, and where exactly does that CTS go ? I think I have one but it is green and is currently plugging its hole in an unused project - half a world away from you . If CTS was dead, you could possibly use a resistor wheel to feed the computer somewhere within its values , I reckon its fuel pressure. A hammer to pump used to help mine in its last days

I like your fuel pump pressure test idea, and that needs to be T'd in and measure also when running. Not good advice when she wont start in some peoples cases, but is giving signs of pump on its way out. especially given it has had enough crud through it to clog up your fuel filter. I wonder if just pulling fuel pump and flushing it may help prolong death?

Oh Scott, don't say that. I sort of need to catch your drift there. I need to swap all the gizzards into another pair of cases. At this stage the shift rods and forks etc are staying in there respective cases. I suppose it not hurt to sneak a look at wherever the a b or c marks are to compare. I will use the good trick of leaving input stuff out and see if that makes life easier. And actually Gannon - I DO have an AC electrical querie unresolved regarding 2 way switches working nicely, now I wanna shove in a SAL dimmer switch STM350 ? Thought I also needed a slave for the other end - there is two switches, why not two dimmer soft touch switches too ? Got one master, one slaveand what looks like too many wires. Gearbox first !

Half roller bearings inside ripped into both hardened surfaces and cannot separate the rest of it as it looks so shagged

And press it in squarely please

Well it is obviously a bird of some sort and I immediately thought of Robin but looks more dove or pigeon

If you have dissembled a box to that extreme level of selector shafts out, including interlock plungers Bloody had one pop out on me ! Can you look in the ball and spring detent hole and see arseend of pinion bearing locating pin or a hole?

Now, let's find that pic ..... See how that locating pin has nearly dropped out of sight? I think I did that on assembly #2 where there was a slight rock of top casing and I figured the torque down would sort things I am giving up on this case set and going to use the cases of the box that I sourced my 23 splined stubs from Now, if anyone knows the length of this pin WOULD BE REALLY HELPFUL !! If I knew length I could borrow a right angled drill, get just under it with a screwdriver and push it back in correct position

Come to Australia ...our parts supply is only required for five years ! My allegiance to Subaru IS the great ability to supply parts even up to 30 years after manufacture!!

Noticed this logo inside case of DR AWD 5MT box

One was AWD DR the others PT 4WD from carb touring wagon. The other FWD turbo Vortex

I was just comparing visually. Huh, and even that is not gonna reveal that the EA AWD drive pinion bearing ID is one mm different to that of the EA PT 5MT DR ! The parts cat revealed that! Best way for me to compare seeing them side by side I sort of worked out that this AWD dual range EA82 box has the typical hardly noticeable low range 19 and20 teeth on the counter gears. EA low range has 19 and 23 teeth Not intending to swap - get into deeper poo than I am in!!

I need to resolve an issue ...

I was hoping for note I timate knowledge on that locating pin. Trio range would be excellent !need to find pliers to grip that other pin of hi lo. Counter gear shaft

Took time to scribe is all thanks