jono

Anyone removed these? Looks like rubber is bonded to a flat but about 70 mm. Would expect something like an M10 stud

Hotwire or flapper air flow meter? Both have a fast idle control device but differ from series one flapper to series two Hotwire High idle means it is getting more air bypassing throttle body butterfly

Taken notes this time. The 70mm OD single piece does not share all the same stuff as the 77mm OD shaft also single piece As I am pulling it out to revert back to dual range FWD I tried the rear uni joint. One axis is nice and smooth yet the other has a very mild stiffness about it, so not perfect, no tell tale rust signs, no gritty bits about it. No idea what it is out of ....maybe EA81 . It has inner C clip circlips and not factory or shop staked. So , it will be out next and off to get a new uni If that resolves,this one I will be happy. Then grind something off my shift levers to sort the fat one

I bought a new or barely used one piece tailshaft made for EA82 5MT DR box into EA81 or bypass EA82 centre bearing. Actually, I bought two, the latter a bit more used The neaer new one is 3" OD tube and is causing havoc where it is welded to front yoke. Lumps of weld are knockingh on the 1 to 5 shift levers, preventing fifth gear while moving. sometime third cops it as well. If it was a lesser OD some problems would not have occured I ground the lumpy bits down to suit one Brumby, now it is giving grief in another. One difference between two Brumbies excpet for age and distance, and colour, is that I had previously spaced the engine cross member rear bolts at radius rod plates in order for the five speeds lump that should have been cut off to clear the floor. I am about to crawl under to swap in the skinnier one piece and take notes. It may also be a case of engine and trans not nicely trued up underneath. Got another sort of noise and resonance coming from here somewhere too. Just swapped in my rear diff again after months of fun as a hi lo range FWD Actually not same rear diff either. I sold it and installed my 149,000 km diff, condition other than new oil filled, unknown. I also have a centre bearing cross member from another Japanese breed RWD that is rumoured to be a nice fit to use L Series two piece tail shafts. I can see it will need some modifications for starters...... wish me luck

No, they are not mine. They are sitting side by side under the protection of blackberry bush in a wrecking yard in the highlands of south eastern Australia I think they have been picked to bits over the decades and are merely shells with bumper and grille I have no desire to purchase or restore. I feel these Subies are a bit too cosy inside, steering and suspension components a bit light weight compared to the EA81 and later models Thanks Willy, I was pretty sure the texture looked like rubber

No! Not the skimpy swimmers ( we Aussies called them Speedo's not Speedo like Joey in Friends once referred to them as ????) I found a want to plug up the Speedo cable drive hole in gearboxes when out of vehicle. To keep dirt, grime and fluid out of bunking up the hole. Just these garden irrigation fittings share the same thread. Bung up the hole in the tail and all set to scrub ups box before dismantle

I am happier now. Made this support from scrap. Bennie should be thrilled????

Custom made by an exhaust shop is commn here in Australia - cheaper too. You really need to be aware the idea is to get the bad stuff out the back so it does not creep into the cabin. Not sure if it is the fumes or impact that will kill you and other innocents

Next step is to design and make adaptor plates between top of spider base and throttle bodies. Likely recessed counter sunk m8 bolts to spider base and plant studs in adaptor to hold top stuff together Think some craftwood concepts first will be better idea

I am going to have to remove the port dividers in the base to open it up so the primary can feed both pots as required. Also looks like the dizzy side will just clear the back of the alternator

It's gonna work. It's not gonna work.... Back and forth,back and forth, but everytime I actually play with the bits, grab another component it keeps looking like it will work Petrol carburettor s donated primary/secondary throttle bodies. Using primaries should E!iminate rich bog down and maybe get enough flow to encourage secondaries to come on board Looks like the throttle shafts will link with a custom rod straight between them with a central cable pull. Even some tapped bosses on the spider base to locate cable outer bracket A larger vacuum port for a balance tube to connect brake booster to

Twin Impco propane carbs....while Galen was asleep.....

Skishop, you dont say whether you removed whole sump pan, cleaned it up then glued it up, or did you simply smear ultra grey over existing seal between pan and block?

maybe to help us help you - can you describe the piece of metal ? Did you remove it easily or is it stuck or attached to something? Made of flat metal less than a mm thick? Or more solid? Shape, size ? When I have got new timing belts from the US they come with warnings not to allow anything get on the belts - such as oil or coolant or they will deteriorate and not be covered by warranty. As such, I not only keep belt covers on and in good condition, I seal where the water pump to timing case sometimes not seal too well. There are a few other spots crap may spill and leak onto sensitive rubber belts, so I seal them as well.. Besides, a neighbours cat likes my Sube so much he sleeps somewhere under the car. I'd hate for his tail to get caught up as I start up

Been contacted by he knows who he is..... apparently one of these is his so I better not reveal where these are

Might be Nulon's g70 as assembly lube

Looks like it goes in my EA81 for testing. Thanks, dampened that idea pretty smartly.

Two cars. One sedan. One wagon. One got single headlights other twin.Not much left but what you see. Grille?

I am sure others have seen these before. I took pics today. Looks like a rubber insert on the top of one front bumper

saw sets of four go for $75 AU plus poostage on ehbay

Guess what Bennie - it is more universal - 35mm hole - was keeping 25 in mind and the smaller 'retainers' of MY boxes I think I will also get a better 'feel' of the thread being able to turn this way - simple enough tool to make now its nutted out and on display New $5.80 O rings are at hand.

I have broken the cap trying to pull the little bastards out, got the guts out but not the body

What would the chances be of LEGO style working in Subaru for this one ? I run EA82 engine in EA81 body with EA81 engine cross member with manual steering. I have a PS rack from EA81 Tourer and PS pump n lines n PS pump bracket from EA82 Wondering if Fuji is looking after us in that the two would 'just' screw together without cu$tom lines be made up? Any one tried this

or just the seal is replaced or adjusting preload. I thought the pic expressed enough.... see the traditional doughnu/flange appearance at bottom of pic ? It is a 35mm hole in the 82mm disc normally meant for hand rail construction. The steam pipe is hollow. The flange fits flush against "differential side retainer" the ends of the M6 bolts fit snug in to the numerous spaces between the fingers you are so happy to belt around with punch and mallet Bennie I found the bearing shells that did not want to come out, just bloody fell out and not want to go back in very well at all on their own. Thought I'd wind them in. If I was to weld washer and nut to end of steam pipe, pipes length only needs be 40 or 40 mm long to clear stub axle. Simplified design, reducing parts and work involved. Boilermaker friend zapped it with his industrial mig in seconds about ten mm a side, enough torsional strength in it to use as a tow hitch ! Onya DAVID !!

NUT NOT BUT