jono

Same brand belt each time? Can you take issue up with supplier? That crank pulley you may find looms like twin belt drive but is actually likely what I have - three! One smaller in the middle so PS and ac can be driven as well as alt and wp. A bar of dry hand soap held carefully against both sides of belt can give temporary noise relief. I like to be able to get half belt depth defection when finger push on longest stretch so not to strain wp or alt bearings

ah ha so it is single range part time 4WD L Series that had that! Never seen anything but dual range. Might be time to pay the funny guy a visit

Technically, there is no CV joint in a rear axle shaft. The shafts have double offset joints better known as DOJ's. The front shafts have a DOJ as the inner, a constant velocity joint for outer so wheel can turn. It takes a press to get the short stub axle about 10" long? no joints in this at all. Job done Brian?

only ever seen the selectors in books - never in real life...but, one is rumoured to be in a pile of crap at a blokes yard. Typical odd, unusal character that wreckers and hoarder/wreckers can be. Everything is a million bucks, but reasonably priced when it comes to exchange. He may have thrown it to spite those not willing to pay his price ask. Must go have a sniff.....

I have seen dealerships referred to as "Stealerships" No idea why ?? Here in Aus we have a great company called Nulon who produce top quality lubricants, fluids and a ripper additive for manual boxes - G70 Great stuff. Cleans up shifting, added protection inside is believed. I also use it as an assembly lube They do G60 for autos We have Lucas power steering additive - fantastic little mechanic in a bottle. Resolved all but one seeping oil seal in fifteen years or so. Never had complaints or comebacks

No damage to dog clutch. I found my first centre diff specs spot on, and having pulled this one apart can see I have a *selectable shim washer of 1.6mm and the FSM has a list of part numbers and thicknesses, so if needed and available, this is the right time to be chasing them. I gotta say the engine stand is the best thing to do these boxes I need to investigate my own cable in out for the diff lock, or knock a hole in the trans tunnel down by my clutch foot

Power failure.... Based on sellers word the box had no noise, no crunches The diff lock lever was just left to entertain itself - nothing to activate it or restrain it from accidentally engaging, fully or partially I guess I just want to get it back together with new front seals and 23 splines yo get it in and test drive it in a Brumby. Anyone know torque for centre difg Allen head bolts?

the centre differential case when cleaned up. It makes me think this component may be made of a sacrificial metal and I have nought to be concerned. I bought this box unable to test drive it, all based on

My first centre diff....I just left it alone. My second, well it did not look or feel the same as above Its housing when washed out with.kero and degreaser revealed enough fine as grey matter to coat palm side of four fingers Now, there is also a very fine light grey greasy gunk building up in a few cracks and crevices. Looks almost as if an additive like Pro.ma MBL concentrate. Its colour also looks to a perfect match to non machined sections I can see of

I think you tried a bit too much brute Foz. I take it you dont plan on reusing this oil pump now ! You would be better off trying to make a puller from plate, bolts etc. Have you any size taps to make thread in any hole you drill into the oil pump? My last oil pump I had to tap it into place, hoping to never have to pull it out. Splittting the block should do it though for me

Thanks GD. Never really thought about trans oil sloshing about on slpes and inclines - mainly considered engine oil and fuel in carb bowls - but you are right. A sort of guesstimation should do for the other box I am tearing inot to swap 23 splines in. It is a combination of DR 5MT cases, with an AWD transfer case and extension. Think there is a 200ml difference betwen the two standard boxes DR to AWD. This box is so clean inside the back end so far, everything is shiny silver steel !

a rule of thumb for any hydraulic lifters of these kind at least is to adjust {if you must!!} the adjusters until you feel the adjustment grab on the push rod. Like the Subaru manual i will tell you after the event described. You should be twiddling the pushrod between fingers and then when you feel it grab, back off 90 degrees. This is or has been a good rule of thumb to get the engine going from cold - gives you time to find the factory instructions. Given the years and chances of tinkering, someone may have also fitted up hydraulic rocker shafts and lifters to a solid set up ??

This can depend on a couple of ways these conversions are done. Based on my conversions does the console from donor stop and then have a separate radio console? EA82 had two styles. I got lucky and got the separate console type and used this in the EA81 body. This way absolutely no cutting or mods are needed of the selectors. I use an EA82 clutch pedal on EA81 pedal box, cut the pivot off EA81 pedal box and mount the EA82 clutch cable to the EA81 pedal box side. grab flywheel back to rear diff underside. Some adapt the EA82 gearbox crossmemeber and mounts so grab them. I don't . I adapt EA81 4MT gearbox brackets and mounts on EA81 gearbox xmem. With the wiring for various switches on gearbox donor, find the connectors and cut wires a few inches closer to body loom so you still have connectors when in BRAT I'd also grab the EA82 engine if its any good

Tell you what, the first times I tried this a while back I'd swear the 1/4" sockets and extension were not gonna work in here, BUT got lucky the other day and with a fair bit of tinkering with shifter rod position and the gear just in the way - managed. Today on another box, took a few goes to get it right again. Very hit and miss as to whether socket wants to go. I now use a slender magnet to drive the tapered bolt in and out before trying a socket. A cut down and ground down 10mm socket may be best for this job i

I think with a lot of conventional engines, the oil level in sump is below sump gasket level. I did a rough calculation holding a gearbox dipstick trying to replicate the bend in the tube and came up with a level below that of the stub axle seal Has anyone seen adiagram indicating such levels in our Subes?. Not even sure if the box sits level or rear end lower at factory stance. Im expecting to see just one part number for these dipsticks. I bought a single range awd years ago - yet to use it found dipstick a bit short - something bin chewing it !

it was her "pleeease explain" that i was hinting at thanks

an OBX ? What is it Pauline Hanson is quoted as saying ?

Face it, HVLA's are a service item. Last time I talked to Phil at Mizpah he needs your parts to reco as no spare cores in stock, so you need to be off the road while these things in transit. New HVLA's can also help magnify weak valve springs problems if you have like I did. Once I installed new HVLA's and new genuine valve springs I had the sweetest running EA82T

I have an old pulley set aside for a "one- day" idea of sectioning it up to fit into a jammed in section which would probably only assist in undoing that oil pump pulley nut. I think you amost need to keep an old belt just for this purpose. Just a minor aspect of Fuji failing us that feel the need to replace that shaft seal

a front LSD? 3.7:1 ? It would be nice, but I bet rarer than a rear LSD

box is mostly back together, three major bits anyway. Of course put rear extension on before doing up that 10mm headed bol with pointy bit. This time I was able to get my Japanese spec 1/4" socket in there. used my skinny magnet to fit bolt in place, then also to turn it to friction stopping it. Skinny magnet is new tool I have adapted So much easier when everything is clean and gearbox on a stand. At least am able to select neutral and gears by using a pin punch in the hole of the selector rod end.It is just hard to fathom how little a movement it is at the rod compared to the top of the hearstick. Still head cant believe I will get all gears so will assemble shifters to satisfy head I think t also helps being in third gear to get at that litle pointy bolt. Also helps having a facory manual over written tips n tricks dictated over the phone ...eh Greg Almost ready to do my next shaft stub swap to 23 splines

Or list chapter, page and hymn and we can refer to our own 'bibles'

Use spray lube before you start. Make sure bolts then run nice n clean through the threads before install new. I make sure top bolts threaded in by hand before struggle with lower. With ea82 I just remove wheel. That manual must be misprint!

Pretty sure it's the neutral spot. In Oz it is illegal to coast in neutral as you can't power away from danger

have you got a Justy !!