jono

so, can you disconnect idle air control device for purposes of diagnosis? See if any changes.

Just make sure no stray sparks about if you do the propane trick or you will have more problems

That's why I am sharing the idea mate. That is what forums are for, not hanging sh1t on others

My balls are a little bigger behind the selector rod detent plugs ...7.1235 mm I believe there is another detent ball plug on the underside of the transfer case right hand side I think it is Studied the two or three ? different sections on the reverse lock out device - still suggests that once everything else is out - detent ball, spring and plug, the selector rod inside, it should come out. I can roatate it, so at least I can polish it up with the dremel. The insides of this box gonna be cleaner than the outside at least. On reassembly I am using Nulon G70 as a replacement for their L90

Well said Bennie, and as Jacko used to sing "I'm an individual....."

Done that before too The white plug had come out all on its own somehow. I think in its previous life the lock doodad had been broken or misshaped

grease is the safest sealant to use here or maybe a second gasket

Got one meself but cost 120 aussie bucks delivered. A new one was 80 plus 126 postage likely wrong side of USA through Rock. Still hoarding it

Precisely !! Discussed this a few years ago with Brumby #2, this is #3 Was thinking a bit deeper by using a timer relay so that fans would only trip on after say 90 seconds of STOP lights on, to save them going on every time I tap the brake pedal. An anoying buzzer might be best

Them? Pat Malone Bennie ! I made a crude square shape from 25mm shs so it picked up all four bolt holes of an EA bellhousing and think I just bolted it to the plate and hit it all in gloss black to match the wheels. Think it was a 500kg rated in first instance. I chopped the length of the sleeve that can slide along through the base of the upright. Typical chunky over engineered from super cheep half price ten years ago and hoarded pause I recall someone on ausubaru - good forum had a factory stand, someone else made a copy of one - which is what I had set out to do until I thought this should work - less pieces of crap to store. I already had half a timber cradle built to sit on my mobile bench before deciding a copy was the way to go, then this idea. another pause this way parts can go on the bench within reach. It rotates, and can pull each bolt at a time so possibly can split the case. Sorry not gonna unstick it to prove it - I'm putting this baby back together this time will be selecting third before final steps unlike when it last went together Jan last year when I was among the walking dead. She's got some nice tight specs inside. I got it off the disco about 9 years ago - AWD single range out of a Vortex with Brumby friendly 23 splines for front shafts. Also designed and commisioned a 24mm sway bar to clear the box. Need this done to try out behind my EA82M then the EA82T goes in Just thought worth sharing

Never heard of this option - every other one though !

EA82 are certainly quieter than EA81 even at 6500 rpm - try that in a std EA81 ! One of my current EA82 has about 240,000km on its short motor. The only reason not running original heads is I slapped on mpfi heads n turbo cam to breathe a little more fire The previous owner was a student from the US who would end up driving to uni - getting there as it hit the red, let it cool down during the day and do the same to get home - nearly cooking it twice a day! I rode my pushbike to buy it for $250 11 years ago, carried tools to replace the thermostat and bingo ! fixed its overheating problem. I run propane only. Its high octane rating allows me to run 22 degrees timing plus whatever the dizzy gives it. I consistently get 10 litres to 100km. The best I couid get from my EA81 propanes was 11.5, mostly about 12 litres As for get up and go it feels and sounds quicker - but may be due to no noise except for induction roar and factory pea shooter tail pipe quiet. I am currently running sans any rear drive components too. I seriously doubt when I go turbo EA82 I wont have much more responsive beast. It will be hard to compare as it will be AWD - box in bits at the moment, just need to ID if one ball bearing that i found stuck to the rag was from this box or the last one ??? I know fuel consumption will go up and handling may require adjustable strut tops and a dude who can do real 4 wheel alignments to be able to use perceived increased GO

Horse for courses. It was the whole entire timing belt set -up and install on an EA82 that impressed me immensely - some twenty five? years ago that started to get me into Subarus starting with a simple drive in low range in a Brumby

Did it for his wife, and if like most, she wears the pants - it's "yes boss" moment

I still diss it Bennie !! Had to laugh the other day when I got all these birthday wishes - yep fb told everyone my birthday Not sure if fb realises it is one step to cloning someones ID, maybe it was Cambridge analytical ? Good Luck. I get a birthday wish every month or so from all over the net :D Some old bloke talked me into joinng up - sold a car within 24 hours :sob: :sob: to a kid only 900 metres away from me - a community noticeboard could only get that close !! Also sold some parts quite easily through fb as well. Guessing when got nothing to part with, nothing to say - getting closer every day my fb will disolve a little Surely you have so much flippin' car building experience you can work it out without any help ?? Whenever I redo PCV stuff I use heater hose from rocker covers to air filter box. If you have efi EA82 block I also include the rear breather - all three are designed for air to exit the crankcase [ and not as I once interpreted - in one side, out the other ] A new PCV valve does not hurt either seeing as though they are a service replacement item [ just not big sellers] I usually shove in a T piece from the rear vent below the PCV and feed the other end of the T from the clean air side of the air filter box. I also love to use VN Commode style air filter cases and filters coz readily available, cheap filters, fit neater in behind left headlight - even more room with LED ADR 46 in . The air box is easily plated up if hole in wrong spot, easy to cut new exit holes and rack boots make great flexible air duct between fixed air box and slightly moving engine Once all worked out and happy, I usually upgrade the heater hose to more oil resistant hose. Has your tank purge line plans got a solenoid in them ? Think you find purge lines hok up to any 4mm? vac line at throttle body, and when you think about it 4mm bit tiny for what we might imagine for hot old Australia ?

yep, while stopped at roadworks I manually switch my twin cooling fans on for a moment and forgot to turn them off, not noticing until ninety minutes and same sort of kilometres later - highway driving. My fault also that I had not yet got around to hooking up the light in the switch Notice the enter button hit here anybody ? Next night, after a few restarts, the red dash lights glimmered a little at idel, just once, enough to be an early warning, rather than something to shrug off and hope all is rosy. I took note of my charge voltage or rather battery voltage doodad plugged into the cig lighter socket. It was 11.8 to 12.2 V for some time, then I noticed as I am using engine braking down a mountain, Voltage came good and started to read 13.5V for a quite a few more km. restart it was back to 11.8 - 12.2 readout The alternator is probably only 300,000 km old so I figure by running those fans for so long may have contributed to a bit of load on the poor old thing, or maybe coincidence, and likely find brushes worn so they just touching their contacts and likely die and let me down....so....swapped in a known trusty alternator and back up to 13.8V

facebook may be your friend here

trying to guess what engine and fuel system in use if it is mpfi, the little round seals the injector sits in can leak air causing a rough idle, afecting speed, as can any air leak which peeps suggest spra y a little wet spray oil about gaskets etc one at a time to se if something pinpoints

Mate, if anyone flops it out in this forum - I'm outta here

someone tell GD to change his password, someone is using a garbage writing style in his name

Its also taken me three decades plus to use a bench at home. Think I am getting too fat to squat on floor anymore ...squashing organs Adding castor wheels to a three foot cupboard bench best thing could ever do. Can pull it out and into better light or position

Sorry apologies I did not say I already have this box apart as far as case halves still together Got rear sections off ready for new gaskets....then found a 6.35 mm ball bearing fall out if wrag May be from previous box dismantle for its front stubs Looking at diagrams now Nothing in anti reverse thing at moment. Undone two M 6 bolts and it rotates freely. Not appear tobe any shims on this one Think only ever got one of these things out

This is another reason I like Subaru - a dealer can still supply for a 33 year old model even though a thirty year old the part is obsolete Yeah, and OK, in Australia I was quoted A$750 It is the two pin knock sensor for the flapper style EA82T and most likely also the EA81 And our mates at Rock were over 30% more than genuine dealer pricing !!

Ok. Who out there has mastered this thing? I think it has been the cause of my reassemble hassles If I could remove and disable it I think I can get my selectors to stay in place without undoing the pointed grub screw A friendly guide with more descriptive processes than factory manuals would be greatly appreciated And to simplify it this is just a single range full time 4WD

Both my spfi manifolds have been ratted beyond any wet fuel needs, sold left over bits to Tweetys Tony. Will have to make a custom EGR maybe even off the top of the head like some early EA81 or imported ones were ....