jono

I have just been in to inspect the timing belts on an engine recently bought. All like new, but decided whiile in there, may as well replace the oil pump seals, front crank seal and camshaft seals and camshaft seal carrier O ring. I am a little particular and prefer to use genuine and did so. Looks like I got a new water pump with engine as well I am waiting for someone to also suggest you do the oil pump O rings and seal - I am suggesting it here and now. Twice now have found previous seal installers not quite get the mickey mouse shaped seal correct so glad I got in there to do the oil pump seal up. I use vaseline or light grease to hold mickey mouse in place and lube all oil seals lips. The factory oil pump shaft always comes with a clear grease already in it. Frayed belt - good find ! And study up the tightening torque required for all bolts. You might be surprised how little they need to be, especially the timing belt tensioner bolts

Subaru actualy sell each part separately here and calls it a kit with all four bits at about 27 bucks. Japan cotrols the pricing !

Hope you are reading THIS Greg !

I only run twin electric fans on my EA82 anmd turbo. They rarely come on unless stationary after a few minutes, or slow speeds. as you know , it takes time for your heater to work, you have that initial period of grace for starters. Hit HOT and fan full speed for interior heat for a little assistance. Or stop and let it cool down if you get caught out. Glad my neighbour dont stop when he gets caught out shoving garbage bin out in the street in his undies

you'd never read of ea81 dizzy to be made work in ea82 ! Some did it to replace points ea81 dizzy with module EA82 dizzy....

maybe not at hand and they wanna fit engine before seals n stuff arrives??

Yeah, Ido...FSM shows wires leading into a box of circuitry. I will liely make up a shielded connection, T in a test wire at same time sso I can monitor things. I have an EJ knock sensor or two, maybe even a Ford six one as well. Someone tells me if you see an EJ knock sensor with a crack it is a sign its been overheated. I know I have a cracked one. I am also thinking I will fit a knock sensor dizzy to my NA running 22 DBTDC @ 800 rpm idle as just starting to hear it ping at high revs in 3rd of five gears. The box is already in the car for turbo engine. Or braze up the ends of the advance slots in the dizzy for some old school tuning

where have all experts gone then ? I ordered one genuine(leaving a testicle as a deposit - Rock wanted both!! ) Only live once - or twice. Rather splurge now and get genuine, tinker later with cheap after market or new style

Wonder no more, done it several times. Radiator out is very first step, then crack the 22 mm nut by starter motor crank over with breaker bar jammed in either a tow tie down loop or braced against the ground with 600 mm breaker bar, then disconnect battery

I have got several sets from Subaru for my 84, 89 and 92 EA 81 utes, but 1980 ...isn't it the last of the fugly gen1 series ? Like, the other forum section I have managed to fit up Gen3 EA82 4WD front struts and strut tops to my Gen2 with some work. Is yours something that can be upgraded to a later series?

Call me thrifty, but not really wanna pay aus prices for a universal clockwise and counter clockwise TPS resistive sensor not early switch type. Any good finds in US? All my searches come up with stuff from Oz The idea of counter and clockwise is the ability to swap between the spider and flat intakes and their opposing direction TPS. Hook one up and can do both jobs Any links appreciated The one in Oz is about A$132

The blinking red LED on my 85 GLTA was my first intro to successful diagnostics of ECU trouble codes back in 2006. The code was a "solenoid stick to open or stick to shut" and indeed it was the EGR solenoid, whch I replaced with one that worked from a carbed EA82, problem solved. Most lately n my NA Mongrel EA82 completely stopped egr and its solenoid from any duties and now have sweetest tune, best regular fuel economy ever had - consistently !

Any idea why and what fr ?

I should have explained that due to so many questions popping up on social media and forums about tank size of various Subarus. Questions seem to continue despite mine and others specs quoted from FSMs, so it affectred my small brain.... I did wonder out loud at first once I had 300km on gauge at the half full mark as to whether gauge would drop faster for the second half, and once I got the 600 km decided should follow through with my original questioning. I had 4.8 litres in a plastic, Canadian made petrol container in the rear just in case I did run dry Also at the back of my mind the number of times people get further problems once they have sucked the dregs from a fuel tank through a usually unknown condition fuel filter. I have one such fuel filter waiting for trusted renewal afetr running fuel cleaners and conditioners through it. Then maybe I wil run it to a sputter, maybe get 60 litres plus in it

You have a fuel pump up front and an ECU? All I have seen with ECU are mpfi NA and turbo and fuel pump is just forward of the fuel tank. Is yours spfi ? Do spfi have front fuel pumps? Or ECU with a carb ?

Landed at the 98 bowser with 600.0 on the trip meter since last fill same site. Took just under 55 litres ....54.73 litres. It was not hinting that it was about to run dry Maybe they hold 60 liters?

Could be a change in the resistance values inside the solenoid coil that causes a delay in the light You could find another solenoid of any kind, that is in a working condition and hook it up electrically to check result. If you were to use another solenoid to work the egr you may need to check its actions, workings etc to see if it needs to bleed off, totaslly shut off or bypass vacuum

Keeps combustion temperatures down...when and by how much and for how long?

I made myself two 24mm holes in timing belt covers when they were off engine. One each side, above the circle on the outside, and plugged up with rubber bung plug. In future if I need to see these timing marks just a quick flick out of bungs and I should be able to see

is the crank pulley on firmly? I just bought an EA82 and found previous fix of spring roll pin, just one, had broken in two places. My fix is to get crank pulley off, use spare timing belt drive cog as a drill guide on the back of the pulley and drill 5mm holes 180 degres apart and tap in a pair of 30mm long spring roll pins, some goop on bolt threads and do it up

seen people make pipes from copper and brass fittings and tube for these and coolant hoses. Std heater hose does the job, but starts to swell up and go all sloppy, soft after maybe a year. Hose supplier specialists can supply oil resistnatnt hose for this sort of thing. I get it for turbo drain back. Hate it when I see heater hose here !

Has anyone (apart from me) thought of using a spider manifold in NA form, or rather just the water log base of a spider to carry out coolant duties, then adapt a carb directly above each head? As once you get this unit in place there is no water passages in the manifold to deal with. An adaptor and pair of down draught fuel suppliers could be hooked up with severe patience. The block would look a bit naked I recently scored ( I think) an EA82T Spider engine and a hybrid AWD 5MT DR rumoured to have come out of one of our Subaru rally guys workshops.The spider is making way for a the more compact flat intake, so its remains can go to another project of mine - twin carb propane Safari style Been through and replaced non genuine oil seals with genuine, ensured the timing belt cases are sealed below water pump, replace any fuel hoses masquerading as coolant hoses . The oil pump has been kitted with new genuine stuff so let's hope the slight tick goes once I get it in, oiled up and cranking. The previous owners lady ensured it was not going short on engine oil. I pulled 9 litres out. No wonder it blew smoke going up the mountains, the rear PCV baffle had no choice but to give up some precious liquid to burn off James Bond style. The weak point I see in the design of the EA82 AWD box is that it usually employs the integral cast input shaft housing for the clutch throwout bearing to scuff up. This box has std 5MT PT 4WD front casings with cast iron bolt on input shaft housing in front of the AWD unit and dual range. Hope it is not 3.9:1 Gota tear it down to shove 23 spline front stubs in for convenience with my 23 spline loving Brumby shaftsc

thougfhgt i posted in here somewhere when my Vortex was at 300km and fuel gauge was at half full, half empty mark. I wondered if this was gonna be accurate and get me 600 km at splutter empty, need to get the jery can out situation Well, this tank of Aussie bought 98, probably made in Malaysia fuel is at 564 km, and the needle is now at empty. Took her out on a warm night, windows down, roof plug out, starry night with Pat Benatar belting it out via the cassette deck and quad speakers. Still got home without a hint of running out ye. Watch this space ... about 16km to the 98 source tomorrow. Curious to know what the tanks actual capacity is compared to rumours and specification sheets

I also note degrees rotor spins on insertion, pull out, rotate rotor same degree opposite direction SK when dist goes back in for the umpteenth time rotor lines up where it should be

Now, I recall why I asked - not entirely due to laziness. There is a limitation to what the manuals reveal once wires go inside the KCM of Series I It is two wires from sensor to box Need to add in words of description AND understand piezo, but its a bit like an O2 sensor that produces a small Voltage O2 sensors can be as simple as a single wire, as can be most modern knock sensors ? That would make one wire off the sensor an earth from the knock box, the other to carry Votage produced by the piezo. I do klnow that normal running the Series I produces 1.7V out of the KCM test wire and ramps up as high as 4.5V but doubt this is produced by the knock sensor piezo itself, but doubt is with little knowledge Now, think back to piezo bbq igniters, hws igniters, mozzy bite calmer downer gadgets Maybe it does produce such Votages or the KCM builds it up to an automotive computer ECU level At the moment I do not have a working Series I KCM circuit to work with. May just have to fit it up to my MONGREL, tap into and monitor both wires from the white two wire baby