jono

you would think so hey ! Laziness asks for previous hexperience, guilty

I have to make a small dice size block and reckon it would be a cool learning 3D design project, but will be making it the old fashioned way - by hand. It is for a power window assembly. A white nylon cable guide that is dice size and has a slot each side to slot into a flat pressed component. Starting with a large chunk of machineable nylon

Series 1 EA82 sensors are two wire. Series 2 are single wire. Has anyone used the single wires in a series 1 to replace the two white white sensor? Is one wire just an earth?

OK How about something I have never seen in a forum, yet used to often see in car magazine reviews - stopping distances. If many of us are modifying or even just tidying up our older cars to go better, or at least like when brand new, surely time and effort should be dedicated to just how well our beasts stop ! I know that my brakes always feel better after new pads, and different pads also give varying results. New rear shoes, drum machine and wheel cylinders. As has with caliper overhaul as well up front. Heck, even the oil change intervals when a drum tickle is required the brakes improve New hoses have been good too. Now, I reckon it is worth compiuling a comparison between ourselves of stopping distances and simply stating speed and stopping distance achieved. Just dont do it on a public road here you gonna cause chaos, accident, injury or multiple deaths !! Got nothing to contribute yet, but if anyone has a review from magazines be useful to start with. State ya brakes and model, huh? Or this could just flop

It will be the whole package including driving conditions and the drivers abilities. New suspension and steering components are never a waste of money or time in these old girls. I used to run retreads which were horrid heavy things with shocking traction. Also ran used imported euro and japanese tyres. Then new Chinese made things that turned funny shade of blue in a year from fitting. Awful sideways traction, great in braking, dangerous sideways stability. Now run Bridgestone Potenza RE003 thaty look half track tyre but are awesome in all conditions efi is that single port or dual port? My dual port cruises so effortless at 70 mph makes me wonder if 140 mph is achievable

someone has to do it ! MSD used to do a retard box for adding to any single coil. Connect to coil, add boost to its port and you get a dial to add to the dash so you can dial in how much andvance retard on the fly I have one in motion as propane, just gotta work out its hard line oil supply from oil pump. One shop trying to sell me silicone line good for 200 C but think may get hotter than that

The centre roof interior light is also a good pinch from EA82 to EA81

I also fitted the EA82 strut tops to my Brumby as they use a bearing and not a bush to spin on. These required me to fit the supposedly superior to EA81 struts as well coz struts and strut tops not interchangeable alone. To make strut bottom tubes fit the EA81 hubs all I had to do was emery off the paint and a tiny bit of metal 0.5mm Much better in the front end in my opinion, in my case

Disc rear brakes are an easy as swap from RX to the EA81 body or you can send them to me The RX you have also has a very cool independent knock control box parked just inside the passenger side near , below top dor hinge between glovebox and inner wall of car. People have modified the EA82 std dizzy to work in an EA81 basically I believ by relocating drive cog mounting hole and using EA81 dist drive cog. Add the knock sensor somewhere as I intend to try and you have knock control for your ea81 so can wind timing up as far as practical and let the circuitry look after retrding timing if necessary I grew to love my boxy old GLTA. Bought it from a wrecker missing parts and panels, dead engine, bought a rolling wreck same day, same colours and made one god one, only as a temporary build to transfer all the good stuff to my Brumby. Loved the turbo sedan and its rear suspension, 2.5" exhaust nte, so much, kept it six or eight years and over 60.000 miles in her before forcing myself to tear it down in readiness for my conversion in Brumby, which I keep saying is about to happen

some cars have a uniquenoise on door opening closing, think GMH Holden EH, EJ doors, Ford Falcons used to have a unique sqeak from front suspension components metal on rubber and dry The EA81s have a rather unique squeak on applying the foot brake pedal. Has anyone identified the precise cause? I thought it was the return spring contact points the last time I chased this noise in my first ute. Wondering if I need to fit a grease nipple to the main outer shaft or add some strong insulator for the spring points ... Or just leave it be .....

soaked about two weeks upside down in a shallow bath of neat car wash detergent, softened stuff up nicely to assist a bench grinder wire wheel to buzz the dampened cork gasket off in just a few easy minutes. Best method ever, saved the fingers, no sharp blades or tools. Next one gona be the same

restricted air filter is anther possibility, to consider as well as the ones above any service history to report, or have you just driven it the last few years and done zip?

I like how you use the word 'just'EJ22 it. You reckon you will learn more by EJing it than you would troubleshooting the EA82? I do :evil: 'just' fix what you have for starters there are flow charts to follow in factory manuals many of us have them and likely refer to them to help you have you checked to see dizzy rotor spins in case timing belt just buggered up as you stopped. happened to me once in a Mitsu Cordia turbo, just as I stopped, balance shaft belt broke How what when was the maf cleaned?

needs to be same dizzy part number with vac can not just an efi dizzy, as this is the series one with flapper style afm and separate knock sensor module system which is great for donor bits I intend to stick this type dizzy with its sensor and control box on an NA LPG set up just for its knock control, Dunno how internal advance will go on non turbo but as soon as detects pinging get some retard instead How does it go under boost? I had a 25 year old pump that started fine gave 36 psi then on any load or boost would drop to ten psi, falter, wanna die until idling ok and 36 psi again ! There is nothing to throw a code for dead or dying pump or low pressure. Sometimes think an oil pressure gauge wired in would do the job ! Your code 12 is common and hard to detect. Maybe a race car style switchboard with new relays for ignition on, pump supply might resolve it ? I dont think anyone ever quite sorts code 12

Can you get hold of a basic dizzy from a carb EA82? In theory it should be possible to use it, hooked up just to the coil or a coil just not drive it hard - no knock sensor working this way If you read blurb on the new part modulke inside dizzy they said much more superior due to better heat protection, better more modern components. Your module might be playing up. But, you have the manuals. Well written. Should help diagnose

a 30 plus year old beast of unknown origins likely to have corrosion crud inside many terminal connectors. No fun trying to do them all to get beast going but gonna pay of in the long run. You need to do all the obviouses that we always seem to be writing up rather than someone allow a sticky what do I do thread. You know, funny thing ...seem to recall if I have pulled my EA81 anal dash out and try to start - nuffin' !! Need to hook it up at the back to start. No idea why though. Wonder if similar dodgy connection back of your digi dash causes similar ? Go The EA82 !!

or tiny screw screwed into the wire that has broken off, then solder new wire to it, encase in epoxy glue is what i plan to do to one of mine gone same way

not all of us know this beast. if you share her vin minus the last six digits will help and or man auto fwd awd still got air bag suspension , never had it.... colour sunroof any rust mine is an AX7 awd 5man turbo red sunroof 1987 model some call 87.5 coz they only made specific for less than a year, so has different ECU and dizzy part numbers. They are not all the same after all

With a wheelbase of 2445mm for MY EA81 Touring Wagon and 2440mm for 1986 Brumby EA81 i see just 5mm difference using Fed dept transports data spec sheets. Mate, Freddo, girls use cm to make dresses. We use mm in here right?!

GD does this apply to all three EA engine designations or leave ohc ea82 out of this discussion?

EA81 man tail shaft 5.7 kg

EA81 alternator 4 kg EA81 starter motor 4 kg

Why add when oil us packed with additives? Is today's oil lacking in zinc? Is extra zinc something old lifters need. Please explain....

vane/flapper/khamann I think? all the same ? have a flapper door the breeze rushes past before the intake manifold and it has a resistance produce device at its hinge. Hotwire came next. Some makes used a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor instead

How about a new PINNED thread with weights of components n stuff of our Subes? Could be handy for estimating postage costs of bits between members, or putting our beasts on a diet If the powers that be think is a good idea to try run with please pin it Digital accuracy from the bathroom scales or the kitchen instruments will do. Thinking if I remove the rear wheel drive gear while tail shaft is out could rip 45 kg off the Brumbys arse, errr..rump I can start off with an EA81 Sanden AC compressor and steel [not cast] mounting bracket - 10.2 kg 3.7:1 diff from EA81 -- 22.00 kg EA81 rear diff mount 1.2 kg EA81 moustache bar...3.7 kg EA81 rear half shafts ...4.6 kg each EA81 4 sp tail shaft ....TBA EA81 4WD manual box ....42 kg EA82 4WD man 5 speed [could be lies here] ...56 kg EA82 single range AWD 5 speed 52 kg EA82 4WD [or FWD turbo} flywheel was it 12 kg ? EA81 engine sans flywheel, alternator - about 66kg EJ22 engine sans flywheel - bloody double I reckon !