jono

something worked but still no pics. Second injector ?? Huh, i aint using wetrol. Using good old dry gaseous fuel propane and however much butane they wanna add at the time. in the meantime while tinkering with EA82 going to be using Peel Instruments Lean Bias Logic sytem to keep everything in check as far as enrichment is needed. Need to fit up a Throttle Position Sensor to the spfi throttle shaft to feed the logic box a 0.5 to 4.5V signal. I think the spfi TPS was just a basic switch like Series 1 EA82 mpfi Been running the turbo gas gear on the NA, sort of loses torque down low and makes big WHOOPEE up around 5 - 6 k rpm. Currently gone back to smaller scale Impco gear to get the low end torque back and my 10 litres per hundred km economy, losing the cheeky snarl up higher rev range. Plan is to go back to bigger capacity gear for high end GO and let the LBL gear deal with the lean bogs down low - hoping to get a way wider torque band. What I learn hear can apply to the turby EA81

Somick, hope you call these things gaskets by the end of this task. Even though they do seal, most refer to seals as round rubbery things,

ferp - what thickness copper do you use for your reusable intake gaskets. I wanna try this ! I use a sealant around the water passage to prevent seep across to air intake and NEVER had a problem with this addition to Subaru maintenance. I also swear by OEM as the disatsers I have bought and removed non OEM gaskets that do not stand up after time, like they wanna dissolve

Torry can you detail the mods please and how many miles since you did it?

I have seen the heater core replaced in an ea82 the whole dash from left to right came back into the cabin once most everything disconnected Done by a guy without manuals just ability to pull stuff apart and get most together again Key seams to be around two nuts and studs each end down low

Well, I have been in of Willy's tuned Hitachi Subes....and he didn't even touch me Inappropriately either! You seen his videos with sound? He knows how believe me. And don't think I am getting in a car with him again though

Think I am gonna chamfer or countersink any hole to be tapped in future, helicoil or the like also

I raced out to but shop and got UNF 7/16" grub screws in high tensile. Double ended studs only available in course. The M10 1.25 of standard stud is about 20 threads per inch, so to UNF.. Found a pair if made in USA taps 7/16 20 in the workshop, plug and taper I am all set! Cost for four grub screws , four shiny nuts to match including 10% gst A$17

Top marks to those who said timing belt. Dunno what a record is for life of timing belts on our subes but know of some 80'smazdas with 250,000 km, smothered in oil and still they go! You will appreciate the smarts of Fuji for the timing belt to stop driving the engine when belt snaps. No spark ! Only in some modified ea82 do valves touch pistons on these occasions. The ea82 is known as a free spinner

Oh Willy, until YOU offer an exchange Hitachi tuned to perfection people are gonna fit Webers !

I must have been asking the wrong tech standards guys 1300 137 302, or asking the wrong way to get that interpretation of no need for engineers report...besides, dunno if you seen my latest signature ........

Mind you, an egr valve is a service item and I bet if i fitted a new one ......

Well, getting best fuel economy so far...see if it continues, or balances out next fill If you can google the john bennet cooling system, he was doing radical things with EGR, like porting them out to increase its contribution at the right moments gaining economies, addressing cavitation caused by water pumps, recirculating coolant bypassing the radiator and getting cooler running systems, thermostat in the lower hose like EJs, and gaining power increases

You know, when you think about what the guy hit me up for one visit to do an M11 1.5 helicoil repair to my block in 2000 - $90 the timeserts are cheap !! Satisfaction of doing it oneself and getting it right is priceless. Also noted somewhere the suggestion of thread locking goo for the helicoil going in, I would add copper grease to stud then going in 72 hours after thread locker has had its time to set nice. Something I have never done before. Think only ever had two helicoils come out

Australia "officially" went metric in 1972 so I need to approach the suply joints gently and ask what studs they might have in 7/16" maybe just exhaust places equipped to deal with whatever. Is there a vehicle you guys quote when buying 7/16 studs? The number of times I have these things apart to tinker I am thinking of bicycle quick release axle set ups !

Once you get this home there is a list of stuff to check and replace for preventative maintenance on these old girls

please quote the part numbers of the dstributors stamped into their sides starting 22100AA then the three digits - starts to help us understand These dizzys have two optical sensor circuits inside, one reads the cylinder positions with the four almost same size slots , #1 is longer ?. On the outer rim of the disc is 360 (or 180 - never counted them ) fine holes - think these help regulate when to squirt the juice. If the trouble is with your sons, can you just leave out reference to your other one, confuses my brain a bit or at least state which is which ? thanks

OK. this page http://www.timesert.com/ pretty much informs my small brain in no time It is more than a coil that could be stretched out like a spring - more like a bush insert as they call it. Looks pretty neat BUT I need to also take your experiences along and see if I can source a 7/16 stud, tap shouldn;t be to hard, likely have one if I look hard enough No need to even drill out the holes in exhaust flange?

OK. Found some local company selling timeserts on eBay and cannot repeat here what my mouth uttered when I saw the price of one size kit!! Know I know!!

Flapper or hotwire AFM? Low profile inlet or spider?

Ripper thanks guys. Think it is timeserts I think I have seen before. I am a helicoil dude but have found the odd one when go back and remove stud or bolt some issues arise. I am now thinking you 7/16 guys are on the money so if it stuffs up next step to drill out and helicoil back to M10

There are some other sort of thread replacement repair methods that a few pointers would be appreciated on. I have thread rethreaders that clean up threads - almost religeously on any of the Subie alloy bits Also got proper taps, just not plug taps Also done coil - heli coil or recoil repairs There is a further type I have never seen but heard about. Sounds like a hardened insert that is mre than a coil and sounds like if dealing with M10 would need a sizeable drill and tap to thread these raved about but never seen inserts. Anyone experience got a tutorial or link? Be happy to hear and see, and some brand names etc About to tackle some exhaust studs holes but wanna ensure I stick to the M10 1.25 rather than drill out and shove some imperial tap in . Thanks all the same to those who suggest that route - not here in Oz

time to spit out those distributor part numbers do any of them have shaft below the drive cog? All my EA81 dist with module the module screws to the inside floor sits on a pair of 8 to 10 mm tube stilts to get some air under module. You said screws to inside wall - makes me think of an EA82 dist that have shaft below drive cog. EA81 do not have shaft extension what is in the car now ?

Lubriplate 130AA has a max use temp of 170F or 80C!!

Yes thanks! Was thinking cam lobe grease must face similar centrifugal forces as down below