jono

Wouldnt wanna run that baby onto the lawn to wash it would you !!

I had an 85 or better known as the three plug , flapper afm Series One There is two black vacuum or boost pressure actualy switches or should be, RHS tower. One drives the boost light, the other is supposedly to kill fuel or is it ignition at an over boost pressure I dont know what pressure. Maybe disconnect and see if get same problem? Have you found the ECU attached to steering column? Factory anyway has a red LED you should be able to see through a peek a boo hole n under steering plastic trim panel or between it and column in the dark I also got something like this from a the 20 year old coil, then again a year later on the chinese made bosch laminate style no oil can type coil. Went genuine 22433AA041 and never had problem again Fuel pump[s usually cause problems just on boost as they start to fail. I would rule that out at the moment but worth checking on a pressure gauge while driving

Someone , somewhere is suggesting they either are still or were recently and only five or six bucks, so thought worth posting an update, almost prescription medication free

so this step looks OK. IGN ON (+) wire from starter switch is not connected to coil yet ? The blue is where I get confused what you did !! Just a suggestion if you can rewrite steps 2 onards as I have altered your now deemed step 1 ??? so first line this is test light connected to the wire that would normally be connected to the coil pos but is disconnected at the coil for test purposes?

I also have trouble reading your updated description. I would remove the starter switch from the equation for the moment. Hook up a toggle switch to supply battery pos to coil pos with one fused wire to do just one job - that being supply fused 12V battery pos to coil which in turn supplies power to your distributor with electronic ignition module. This would be your RUN position or IGN ON if it was a car ignition switch Hook up a spring loaded type starter switch. Take pos power for it direct from battery pos, through a fuse to starter switch to starter solenoid. Nice fat earth lead from battery to engine block. If it was a car you would also have a nice lead between battery neg and body and probably another earth between block and body for good measure

I have learnt that is the danger in asking more than one opinion I have found, sorry. There is a heap to read and consider to remotely diagnose, probably harder to assemble all the info you have put in also on your part, frustration not helping, kids losing faith in their teacher

OK. Have to remind self not in Subaru car so has generic ignition starter switch. Lucky, no steering lock to play up I see you say in run position you get no light / 12V positive (+) at the coils positive (+) screw terminal. You should though, about battery voltage and see it drop about 2 volts due to cranking when cranking via starter motor. How about you run a fused wire from battery pos to coil pos then try starter switch crank

You have a multi meter. Can you provide readings in place of light tester? Maybe leave that light tester in tool box for a while

Lucky mine fired up as soon as I swapped in old Hitachi module. Can't see why you have no spark

No longer available through Subaru Australia anyway

And getting partial word forbidden trying to stuff it in here

Sadly no longer have the beast. And reference is to the ohc 4.0 that started production about 1989 and just continued to evolve.

Start all your posts with EJ not an option

What dfoyl says is good BUT when have bought pistons here in Oz for my ea81 builds the box was labelled ea71,ea81,ea82 so a compromise piston to suit all three engines This time specifically bought old stock ea71 pistons...yet to build and gonna be an ea82 I run ea82 using mpfi or turbo heads that are two intake ports on heads manifold to suit and feed it propane to save dicking around with carnies n crap in my Brumby My first total rebuild ea81 in 2001 cost $1000 for me to build lasted 180,000km hard revving Second ea81 build 2008 same money. Got 120,000km now got blow by and buttermilk Money well spent each time

Manual or auto trans? Can grind I prefer for solid lifter is 16/56 with 0.235" lift Went wilder with 20/60 and lost torque when loaded When heads shaved intake manifold bolts holes get closer so the bolt holes of manifold each end need larger dia drill through them Find someone who goes ej they usually hate each stuff and may give you old bits for nix. Ea82 carb on its manifold will fit

Always good to get stuff machined and serviced such as heads resurfaced to reduce head gasket fail How much do you want to rely on this? Farm hack, just around town, to from school work or highway travel?

Is your engine solid or hydraulic lifters

I fully understand.No EJ swap yet. People have been screaming convert to EJ for a long time for good reason. You and I also have good reason. You also want to learn from scratch Good on ya Is money a problem? Or are you trying to do this on tight budget? Are you driving this yet? You say you are building or planning to build? I had trouble finding spfi pistons new so bought pistons for the 1600 cc EA71. New and oversize bought first so machine shop can have them to measure and rebore to suit Most rebores require head studs removed from block They ate a bugger to get out Are not ate! M11 threads 1.5 mm pitch I think I have never put pre loved pistons in a rebuild but looks like dudes do. Need careful measurement for sure Mist cranks not need regrind and undersize bearings, just a linish and standard size bearing shells. They are cheap. Think I got ea71 pistons from US about $40 set in oversized. So cheap I bought several sets in different sizes. Can you buy top grade fuel? To run new beast on The Y pipe others mentioned is the exhaust from heads to first flange join. I fitted one from EA82 to my EA81 is just half inch longer? And pushes exhaust back a little. Resulted in 120 kmh in third instead of 110!

You won't want two of same. One left one right

Not normal for me. Sorry GD, my fault for not hexplaining how different this one is. Catch can is black, cylindrical strapped to all AC bracket feeds to top of air filter. RHS is alone with one way valve and bare filter

I give you credit for chasing torque! Who drives around on the HP max mark anyway? Just look at the Aus Ford 4.0 litre I6 with flat torque line between 2000 and 4000 rpm was it?

Just curious if US models got this coil and what they were. As far as can recall this was out of my 1988 Aus delivered touring wagon carb EA82

Wasn't much water as such just the typical escape into the cap The offender Probably good fortune that I went through my fuel filter and converter Pic shows the crap that literally poured out of it in dry form

How useful is this stuff in the ea81 application if the stuff is not transferring the heat anywhere? The ea81 module sits on tube stilts spacers so has an air gap. The grease is not transferring heat anywhere. As such I have never used the stuff Am I wrong not to use it? Maybe alloy heatsink from electronic shop be best?

OK. She now fires and runs thanks to an original Hitachi ignition module. The rather new module failed just a few minutes after an engine bay degrease OK. Talking blow by...rockers denuded of tubes and although no smoke from water or oil it does sound and feel like a gentle tail pipe warm air pumping out both sides Now I remember also before I swapped to Brumby#3 this one spat the dip stick out and coated engine bay in a rust preventative. I gave it a good clean up there and then before parking it So, blow by on such a young fresh engine Guess I will find the water contributor some day too. But current daily drivers EA82 power plant is destined to replace this blow by baby. Daily driver gets the ea82T after I swap heads and my newish valve springs in. Like all others, got non car stuff to deal with. Thanks for suggestions. Will have to dredge this thread up when autopsy the ea81