jono

Took ten minutes to swap out the reasonably new two pin module and an old trusty Hitachi original - and SHE BANGS! Summertime here Dee, things dry out faster

Just tried dmm on 20k range red to coil pos dmm black to dizzy end of coil lead and dmm readthe nno reaction 1 on screen. Checked at coil got the 10 k reading plugged ht lead in again and got 13,420 higher reading likely to leads resistance properties. No moisture no corrosion very new lead ignition off in all tests. Lessee if she fires.!!

Just tested insitu factory coil in factory application on my no start problem EA81 with wires connected to pos neg but coil ht lead off got 2.1 Ohms primary 10420 Ohms secondary on module type installation

Something I never see stated is whether to test coil primary and secondary circuits with loom wires still connected or totally disconnected. I trust latter. How are you test ing? Zero says new coil is now kaput. What coil is it? Brand part number? Not running a points coil with ignition module? You are points coil ? you coz resistor in place. Factory ea81 with module do not run with resistor, only earlier points dust did with correct coil

Just tested my original Diamond 7 E-019 use with igniter coil with DMM on fresh batteries as low battery can give dodgy readings DMM red on + black on - threaded terminals DMM scale of 200 Ohms got 2.1 DMM red stays on the pos terminal but black to coil tower and DMM in 20k range got 8.9 so gguessing is 8,900 Ohms

Plus one for zero reading on coil primary just read if can believe internet zero means short way high means opposite open circuit

Time for some elec spray stuff...maybe even more sun in the bay? Found two modules and two coils to swap in

Cold comps within 5 of 170

Thanks. Can rule out ballast coz its module not points. Measured just under 12V at coil pos ignition on and just under 10 while cranking. Spark plugs all dry clean and near new Denso

I'll be really puzzled if its a brass Welch plug leaking. Comps cold are all within 5 of 175 on the generic ea71,81,82 slugs. A leak down test be next once I fix the nostart issue. Last time an ea81 fsix blew steam after two months nothing was salvaged except dizzy - it all went to scrap yard

is the answer for you in the zero coil reading ?

Long story short, my small engine spark tester is confirming what I thought first, I only get a spark as ignition comes off ! As I tried to start it it sounded as if it was about to fire yes CRANKS FINE thanks Wont fire to start, but gave a last ditch try to fire as I switched off sometimes Back story is this is my buttermilk in catch can ute Not on the road at present thank Fuji I always like to degrease engine bay before I get down and dirty I also like to wash and polish before I start things too So engine bay first I was able to start it at first today after sitting a while, few weeks, after sitting a few months beforee that Battery was a bit weak, so booster hoked up and she fired moved it, degreased and pressure washed the engine bay from top of underside bonnet to back of gearbox and down under the sump Gave her a pressure wash and chamois dry Then started a while say three minutes, then died. Yup, water under dizzy cap, so left it out in sun to dry inside of cap and dizzy itself Still no fire Loking at my propane mixer I wonder ...Jay Storer says never blame the gas first I undid the cover of gas converter to find good reason for an overhaul kit to go through it, first time in nine years 120,000km. Been sitting on a repair kit, had the time, so went for it. Overhauled the gas safety lock off too and just as well, its filter and bowl was chockers with dry mostly ferrous crap particles, never seen so much in my life !! Gas stuff all cleaned up and kitted, set up and back in Still no bloody start I am planning to first hot wire it to boot the ignition switch out of the equation and see if it starts then. Next will be swapp ignition switch BUT have a sneaky suspisicion this weird thing has happened to others before, cant recall, who or what. Maybe I need to chase up a module I have lurking

I also thought I found the more base advance I ran the less willing to rev out...but not the case with my EA82. Now, that's what you want...an efi EA82 from an XT non turbo! Two intake ports per head, a manifold to match, ohc willingness to rev. I have almost enough go to consider not fitting my EA82 turbo ...but I have to in order to complete a decade long project. My other Brumby to get this ball tearer

I am always suspicious of those claiming an EGR delete making any power unless egr gunked up and leaking somehow. Egr only meant to work when you have manifold vacuum. You don't have that when foot flat to the floor asking for more power. No ooffence knucklehead

Um, no one drive , ah ha... you guys don't do roundabouts like we do - clockwise! Its all modified so no petroleum carburetor, no factory air box, has an exposed air filter element with rebreather on top plate if air filter above an Impco propane carby As a precaution to prevent any oil dropping in on air filter element, and because I had the canister kicking about chucked it on Just as well as it has caught the crap, it has served its purpose. Blow by does not produce steam to mix with oil to make buttermilk Normally if a mild steel ferrous metal Welch plug was in it to rust out I would understand and expect water in my oil I am gonna have to do a comp test for starters. It was starting to lose water but first thought it was from its cheap nasty eBay radiator

Got not oil in water Got no water in oil 120,000km since rebore rebuild Never over heated but worked hard Catch can off lhs rocker fills up with buttermilk about 700 ml when full. Bit puzzled Any ideas, corrosion somewhere? Slight Welch plug? But are brass

Done just this to my GLTA years back. Bought my donor car for $250 swapped out bad thermostat and assessed whole car on road next three week s until rego ran out. My turbo four door 4wd sedan had 3.45 diff in front 3.7 in rear. Lucky donor was 3.7 anyway. Need flywheel to rear diff if not correct ratio in your GL10 Need manual clutch pedal or even whole pedal box Under console should find eight? Wire connector in one row for trans wiring. Disconnect on conversion and jumper two fattest black wires to make it start bypasses D or P start switch

If its not been done before we need you to do this and record everything to here, YouTube and Facebook. Not too much that could go wrong surely?

I press mine to suit the deck height. With GMB jap made pumps the hub can be pulled or pressed to correct spot. One deck height pump is dearer than the other at local suppliers. So same pump just adjust if design allows

interesting ... must check mine for correct orientation, once i get my high beams back - they died just before i swapped to my 89 Brumby and its heritage listed headlights

OK.Anyone else guilty ? I just destroyed an optical dizzy, going where the subie manuals forbode or prohibited anyone from going I scratched out the epoxy smothered all over the screws holding the module together and got to point of no return as i forced the top half off the bottom half of the optical sensor. I was correct in thinking must be two light diodes in it as mentioned elsewhere due to two sets of circumferal slots to read off the disc as it rotates. There are two light diodes n between the two halves of black part is four light weight bare copper wires Am guessing if I forced the cap off the top I would still have found an epoxy filled component but now wondering how the reconditioners cardone do these? - whole new optical set up? Photos to follow if I get enough requests

Room for another chapter GD? My first spfi manifold sits on my 20/60 0.235" lift cammed EA81 with a propane mixer 125 by Impco via an adaptor I made coz yacant buy one While playing with it I could see its potential as perfect for either ea81 or 2 single port head and snail (turbo- you may have missed that finer detail) Mate, for economy international postage costs I let the seller keep the TBI bit!

I emailed one supplier , denied any knowledge of Pinto interchange on these lifters

It was KCM23 knock control module casing, a distinct rattle now extinct! Thanks to some adhesive foam and cable ties

A chance to bumpo my post. Some might recognize an spfi intake