jono

Oh, czny , have someone drive that car at night for you, you drive something else and drive towards each other at night. I got some of similar and resorted them only to high beam due to the dazzle I got from my lights on low beam. Low beam on mine was bottom row and just the center LED of the middle row Hey OP, did you wire battery pos to lights and switch control the earth? Another 2+2 = 5 case

Another way of looking at it is where the clutch throw out bearing slides, is it integrally cast as part of the bell housing and in alloy or is it a rustable metal that bolts to the bell housing? And where the shift mechanism exits the box what's it look like? Who is telling you the specs of gearbox input shaft measures and spline counts? Spline counting is usually expressed by number of teeth on the male member not the female of the friction plate

Even though I am down under I possess a pair of spfi inlet manifolds, primarily for their neat throttle body and interchangeability between EA81 and 82 carb heads Playing with my second one at the moment, moving the small coolant line so not to rub the dizzy up the wrong way. Have drilled and tapped a 27 tpi taper and used brass compact male to female fitting to add brass straight barb This is where a useless cast tower sat on the flat behind thermostat Had to swap brake booster barb to suit RHD. The LHD port hole has become the vac port for dash controls The coolant temp sender...I noticed only sits in the coolant plenum/ tunnel from pots #1 and 3. There is a divider at this point for #s 2 and 4 to meet up below the thermostat. It would be interesting to have a sender in the other side to see if things are even. I am going to use the convenient M16 1.5 hole of the temp sender for a half inch barbed brass fitting to feed a snail???? So the CTS hole below needs to be tapped out to take the coolant sender

Well, had to pull one apart didn't I? I had a few stuck in a few heads and while I had my split press plate out used a couple bolts to pull most out in o e piece But, a pair decided to hold on so tight I busted the hvla top cap and the guts came out. Maybe this time I will remember....there is no rubber seal in these things! Just a plunger and its spring and down below a ball bearing in its retainer and small spring So what does a recondition involve, just a clean out? Must be some long change intervals to gunk these babies up over the years. I found my set to send all the way to Mizpah ...yeehah

What is a pre 85 5 speed? A fwd only box?

**cough ** bUmP!! Or for the Aussies ...GMH Camira rumoured to also work....shoot, I think that family of engines were exported around the world. The Camira was a good car in some eyes. Rarely see them now thirty something years old

Just a correction for you....timing belts for ea82

Very satisfying doing screen seal yourself. After some prep first time took me twenty minutes with slim rope cord black sticky gunk silicone spray

You will find new rubber seals for your screen on eBay.com.au or another is Oz rubbers or something. Oz auto moulds and rubbers. I have sent a few to UK for a bud. Fitted two myself and they are good quality and fit

Aha. My gauge runs low when my twin rad fans come on. Only just wired them both with relay each and power from battery. Maybe I need to earth gauge sender direct to batt neg!

Or stop and just jack one wheel off ground and if you stopped in neutral handbrake off you will see and feel and hear diff bind release.Rear wheel best

I also use one shift position into 4wd hi which uses std gear ratios of fwd to take off from lights or intersections in the wet tarmac situations then sometimes need to bang lever back down once moving. If you feel diff bind again, steering stiffens up, harder to select gears may be experienced, try drive half on tar half off tar declutch to shift back to fwd

Great to hear you now have three positions. Fully down is fwd for dry tarmac or dry concrete only. Low speed driving on dirt is OK under 20 miles per hour only though. Instructions also say to use clutch to shift to 4wd high which is next position up. To pull lever up one more positive feel position is 4wd low range . Be mindful you can get a neutral in this 4wd selector between hi and low. Highest up is lowest range. Well done.where are you so isolated?

Something most of us don't do is check all the data, specs, Ohms n Volts when everything is working fine. What if you went over your work now see if something is different? Other than fact its running just fine

Factory wire to idiot light and had to put my auto elec cap on to wire up the gauge and its sender. The sender has a screw terminal for earth as well. Do you not know how?

What's today's date?..... Waiting g waiting

Where does Jake fit I to the last ten years of this thread? Did you check relay before you replaced it? If so how? Like for like relay? Check all the wires to and from relay? Results? Tell us naming sites by colour and trace colour skinny line . Sites? Wires!

Did I not suggest direct power to coil quite a while back? And you only just done it? You could a left car out fro t thinking no one would or could pinch it....some punk rocks up with his hot wire none the wiser toyour woes, bust the steering lock and hhe's got a getaway car! I have chased a few electrical dead ends and its my fault did not tell you Murphy was an auto elec A mate says sometimes two plus two equals five Years back I was just trying to get rear I dictators to work looking for a break I powered lights from socket back to switches. Could not find fault. After the reverse power up ran fine until cars end! Just recently my power antennae stopped going up. I plugged my spare ant into the loom to see it worked. Plugged loom back to dead ant. Decided to work again just like that Your daughter must be impressed now with all the new components and her dad. Well done. Now you qualify to answer trouble shooting posts!

Oil pressure switch wire for EA81 look for yellow with black trace. If it has factory connector was clear likely yellow opaque now insulator on a right angle female spade

Found a resistor someone soldered in between white and red? wires just after where F41 plug should be. F41 replaced with bullet terminals - erk! This dist was in an XT with spider which I suspect started life as na mpfi fwd

Aha, it is then green and white eh? I had read this ages ago just not which wires or why. Given the short supply of 87 I hope they never got this done! I have got two of the 89 na mpfi and want to convert in prep and test to keep as a spare...with some confidence Seems to be a dark epoxy filler in the heads of optical unit securing screws!! Ahoy thinners!

I tried an EJ filler chube from a 1600 impretza as the POM's call em. No work, chucked it

I read somewhere in here ? Someone said run one or the other but not both gauge and idiot light and of course the usual internet way - not explain why I run both idiot light and saas gauge and sender with no troubles. The gauge is just more variable info to fill head with as I drive

Any idea why there is no diagrams or info on this forbidden area of our EA82's? My factory manual wiring for what is called a crank angle sensor sometimes , and at other times manual just calls it a distributor Wiring identification stops at plug F41 from memory. On my 87.5 turbo vortex the wire colors change after this plug for some of the four wires I think colors dist side are the usual red, black white and green. These colors not the same for some of these on the body\ecu side of the loom

Read somewhere that these lifters are interchangeable and high performance ones are available for the Pinto Any experience?