jono

I just looked at the philps #1? screws on the optical unit looks like an epoxy resin anti tamper is in the heads ....guess part of the prohibition of further disassembly?

Gloyale is the sort we need! All those others who bag out EA82 ( not at all suggesting Gloyale does this) and have these bits kicking about you are who we need to help those like me sticking to the EA platform. I think I tossed a huge number thinking can just buy new ones but the metals used in new one apparently not the same as Fuji used. I also like the idea of someone taking some care to reco them more than someone or thing in a far away Chinese factory...

I should have a heap given the engine mount count in hoard....eight sets, then found another so tossed two sets. I have several lifters stuck in heads and do not follow instructions found here. They are stuck fast.

Anyone care to finish off where Fuji stopped in the manuals ... Says Further disassembly if parts is prohibited Guess this is for Subaru staff...must be more to it?

I have bought reconditioned HVLA's from Mizpah Precision Mfg Inc on your recommendations in here. Very happy with product and service. I spoke to the owner just now regarding another set for my next build. He has no cores to be able to just send more out to people like me not so close - I am 'down under' hanging off the globe by sheer luck I think. I guess to save Phil from going broke buying all the dormant hvlas in the US contact him before going to the trouble mizpah@paulbunyan.net 11522 Bartlett Avenue Mizpah MN 56600 I think a lifter weighs 80 to 100 grams per lifter. So max of 3oz each? Join the search Phil is willing to pay for your old cores. He was offering me $US2 a core to help offset postage It sounds like it is time for the Subaru community to rummage sheds for those old EA82 cores, get your hands dirty to retrieve them and send them in....better than cash for scrap cans huh?

When the manual says to check the continuity between a wire/ terminal and body what is the correct-for-dummies step by step way to go about it? I used to use the diode test point on my mm rotary dial but suspect not correct I am learning how to test my 87.5 dizzy with black round plug and is disconnected with ignition on pro king body side of plug....probing....

Now you mention cracks! I have had a set weld repaired that failed again years later. Two tests are cheap easy vacuum test once valves been sealed ground lapped etc then there is the pressure test costs more but is more definitive that I recommend for more piece of mind. Like many others have used heads with harmless cracks A sealing product called seal wel uep one L also worked wonders

Your first count said three valves leaked, yet none of the exhaust did. Wondered how many valves you had on one head! You know, from past experiences with ea82 heads don't take short cuts. You put so much into rebuilding it and installing it , no fun finding cheapskate genes caused more headaches for you. Any visible cracks between valves combustion chamber side? You had a coolant leak....where, how? The valves leak under that test just means you had an extra problem about to happen. I always use petrol with a little oil coz think it is thinner than water and when petrol dries leaves oily residue about.

You say relays not getting power. How have you found this? Probed the power supply for the relay s coil side? Is the relays coil side also getting earthed?

Ski shop you mentioned only three ...turbo, carb and spfi .....fourth XT mpfi ?

Sexy enough? The new too on the seal added a better sealing also

Great link Jesz. Explained. Your old Ford would have the mushrooms.

Gloyale how right you are. I think....forgotten what I found with part numbers in factory listings. Inlets different to exhaust. But one was upgraded or superceded in 87? Resolved the issue buy getting a set of each on offer from Rock and the last odd one for giggles I suppose. Jesz, metallic core and just seal and its spring at the top? One term used somewhere was "positive" type. No idea Turbo inlets are gonna be subject to pressure like suggested above for exhaust. Nitrile is regarded as old school cheap, then there is another that escapes me, then Viton which is what good needles are made of in carby seat talk.

But never again. Rather pull engine out

Those rubber bung plugs in the chassis? You got them? Or just the hole after thirty years bung plugs can go AWOL. I'd give the rails and engine and bay a good clean first of all dirt, grit etc. I did it in my rhd ute ea81

Do what I did, well not step by step or that will drive you nuts. I got the rubber seal out and hit the cap in two steps, inside then outside with dry time in between. Use primer to suit chosen paint. I used the brightest yellow oil based enamel spray paint can I could find Several primer coats then several top coats, days if hardening time then glued seal back in with more than original. Result is a bright and happy fill cap so easy to see. It also mimmicks modern idea of anything driver should check under bonnet us yellow

aha, so if we knew the power rating of an EA82 with 7.7:1 comp ratio , guess 77 HP, add 6 pounds boost we might just touch the 113 HP ? I'm just trying to work out fuel needs and think I have it worked out - but to find a thread in any forum by search ?? ....phhhffft ! I ran 12 pounds boost for years no problems. The dodgy factory clock display was turfed for an indepenently powered Volt metre to monitor the knock circuit. Hardly evered needed activation with the 109 octane fuel - propane The fuel dispensing gear has both CFM and HP ratings. The components that generally go hand in hand and work well in NA applications might need a rethink with turbo The smaller convertor, the J or Cobra is rated at 5 to 100 HP which has done well, in fact at its sweet spot with EA81 with spfi inlet manifold or twin Hitachis and their manifold and tidy cams working with a 125 gas carby/mixer A standard 113 HP EA82T is just outside the small converters delivery, so I upped it to an L converter that is rated from 50 to 325HP. The usual match to the larger L converter is a 200 or 225 mixer both rated very closely to each other in HP and CFM and at 12 psi boost, 6500 rpm on an EAs 1791 cc works out just covered The smaller 100 , 125 series mixer/carbs rated at 123HP and 197 CFM, the HP delivery should be fine for std boost but falls short on CFM at 6500 rpm 12 psi boost at 6500 rpm needs 376 CFM which is close enough to the larger 200 series mxer/carbs With the turbo under bost and in , say a bit of a hurry, I would get some weird bog or flat spot if I asked too much of it and at this stage no idea if it was boost or fuel issue. I thought it may have been double fuelling, but it may have been a lean bog. I need to get engine in and monitored when this happens. Dyno shops have had their chances with me over the years so the HP figures for you just wont be happening anytime soon. Dynos seem to cloud peoples minds. Once had a dyno shop to work out speedo accuracy and they got it ronw according to the highway patrol. Another reported that my engine build pinged all the time on the dyno, blasted the invoice with COMPRESSION TOO HIGH FOR STREET USE across it I got it home gently to find they confused clearly marked timing numbers, stuffed up points dwell setting ..not their first stuff up, so you'd go back hey? Then when I got to assist with a dyno run the tech could not get a proper reading for some reason, later worked out than when he asked me to take it up to 100 - he meant km, the old beast was in miles .. so here I was doing 100 mph on the dyno...so, I should have asked, and he should have checked with me ...so dyno does funny things to people The 200 mixer is rated at 175 HP so not gonna hit that with 12 psi boost Boost pressure sort of does not work with std gas ratings worked out for NA stuff either as the 200 is rated at 280 CFM falling short by about 100 CFM if you use NA figures, yet it worked fine up to about the 380 CFM mark boosted. Think was at first to use two smaller gas carby/mixers ( 140 HP/224CFM each in NA terms) off the bigger L converter. 325HP but now thinking the bigger mixer 200 could feed off two smaller converters My tinkering is happening on the NA 8.9:1 EA82 twin port in prep for the EA82T The gas mixer that was tuned on the turbo engine, slapped on NA gave perfect readings despite the comp ratio change and no hair dryer, so pretty impressed withold Impco technology. I do ahave a lean flat spot bog because the whole combo is a bit to big for the NA EA82. Considering Peel Instruments LBL for enrichment hence my question elsewhere if newer, EJ TPS fit and work on EA throttle bodies

I used to get stuck with the TDC mindset until I twigged ....with another Japanese manufacturer...that the flywheel is best et at the timing mark when installing the dizzy and lining up the leading edge of the rotor button to the underside of dist cap contact point. When you think about things, if you measured the rotor button from carbon contact point to edge where rotor dispaches spark to cap, use this as the diameter of a circle, measure up the width of the rotors touch point to cap terminals for each cylinder, you work out the degrees of the rotors turn it is within easy reach for the spark to jump, it doesnt just happen at and on that 8 degree mark, it continues for a few degrees, if you get my drift. Bugger of a job to swap pushrods in place

OK so cant posts be deleted?

Any ever tried? Or should I ask on farce book

I did mine today to quell a curiosity and to fit some Denso U groove copper core spark plugs I got a few years back. Last time I fitted these to another Sube I repeatedly got better fuel consumption despite old plugs not that old yet favoured NGK. This lot have the smaller 5/8" hex so socket clears the head casting better. This ea82 has only 200,000 km on it, yet previous owner an american uni guy studying/ working in Oz would drive it to uni as it started to overheat, park it for the day to cool and do same on trip home. Minutes after I bought it I whipped out my 12 mm socket and flocked the thermos tat. Flick flick ..ten years ago $250 for pristine touring wagon was a steal. Comp was 180. 190. 180 and 170 in no 4

Is anyone able to explain the differences between the seals for exhaust and inlets and the differences between carb and fuel injection ? The exhausts will also fit inlets of fuelies or vice versa. I am confused

I revved my first build to valve bounce and after 180,000km the crank flexed a bit too much and mushroomed the centre main bearing seat. Still went still revvedjust hhad a RUmble at revs but essentially the three mains ain't really made for revs

Anyone know roughly the horsepower increase per extra pound boost over std 6 psi for our ea82Ts?

Can also depend on the ac curacy of your gauge. Most of my ea81s have offered up 180 to 190 at operating temp