jono

I heard they were double that price here in 0z. You got the only one! If you have time do you think it would help to test those six wires to see what they have? When I junked my 84 I thought about saving that box but all I did was think

I like to thank spark YB oy for his honesty - eight months for ej swap is more like it!

FaT one in white no trace goes To The Top of The T . skinny white fella like me only it has a red trace goes to the other

Sealwel it

Thanks Car freak. Factory manuals is where the name Valiant comes from in first place. Waiting on Fuchs reps to come back to me, been onto Shell as they do a Valiant R2 so looks like Shell did stuff in first place for Fuji. Been at dealer and computer blanks on part number. Settled on a tub from a vat of Castrol EPL zero grade from the steering specialists. Looks like cross between Aeroplane Jelly and Vegemite.

Thanks for your efforts there on R2. M2 is not a misprint just something special from pre everyone's internet. Saw a steering specialist who uses Castrol EPL zero grade which is a sloppy semi oil semi grease but m2 suggests it is a mineral base and thicker than slop. The white grease I see is also drier than slopbut is also thirty years old.

As an update been to dealer Valiant Grease M2 or its part number comes up blank. The top seal for the pinion shaft ditto

Where's GD? He has a post from 2004? discussing a lubricant found in the manuals step by step not in the specs area...is called Valiant grease M2 and back then SOA wantedUs$90 a tub. Somewhere further someone said they were just gonna go a general porpoise grease. Has no one else pulled a rack apart? I drilled little divots in the body to line up with another in the lock but of the tension adjuster and started to pull to bits. She's a bit dry.... Gonna research this Valiant Grease ...M2 might be a clue. ...someone called green grease has a waterproof grease which would be a good start. Stupid is I only looked at this after I stuck new inner tie rods on. Looks very basic. Need to pull apart further to clean ant nasty stuff out and renew the g r e a s e

Of course, how did I forget the XT! They were all efi of some sort!!

I got the impression that the US did not get the mpfi version of the EA82 other than turbo. Then I read recently in here? of someone with NA EA82 mpfi. Either way, was wondering if anyone pilfered the twin port heads and manifold to convert a carb block to NA mpfi ?

Cripes!! How about OP tell us what he has got and what he has replaced if anything otherwise everyone sort of wastes efforts if it is carb, if it is spfi. The net is full of people asking questions without completing story and tangents are created. Not knocking anybody mind house The netwzves be more peaceful if when you get problems with the tune of your jalopy go whole hog and buy new spark plugs, leads, coil,cap and rotor, points and condensor if fitted, then come back in. Some fuel cleaner doesn't hurt a tank before new fuel filter either. Steps off milk crate....

ouch! I chucked one when I scrapped vehicle last year :oops: just how many wires to each and which terminal of the coil please? I think I found by stupid accident that a wire attached to the coil side to go to my tacho which would be same as connects to the safety doo dad above pedals, if that hits a ground, no spark, no start ...my antennae that had no radio, managed to dangle into my comparison tacho that was not powered up to power or ground but was still connected to the coil. By ripping the two components apart I suddenly had go spark again !! I wonder if you test for the coil wire hook up side of coil to ground see if you get a reading. Tach normally hoks up to neg side of coil yeah ? Wonder if simple test lamp connect to power and see if it earths through coils neg on the problem car. test a few other old same era coils with ign off??

Yeah, absolute bastard of a job whether left or right hand drive that spring clip. My sneaky fix for this and it takes the next time to really be proud of self for doing it - is I get a pin from a wreck but from the brake pedal to brake masters push rod, the one that goes through the brake pedal with the extra safety of a plastic nylon safety clip as well as clevis pin. Absolute bliss next time you do anything at clutch cable pedal area. I break off the extra safety clip and never use for brakes again. I also use same clip on the hi lo selcector of EA82 five speed boxes, so much easier to disconnect when time needed. It is the fit that gave me the grief of after market cable

totally agree...bought one from a parts store, no end of grief with it. You soon forget the price difference when comparing the quality and length of service of the genuines

They so were...interior section !! Wonder if they were off their meds at the time of sorting that one out. Shame postage so spensive, but it no change from one to three at least Will have to dream up another order .....

IgoSubaru Hgs every time, as I found upon retorque, they never take it. Subaru workshop tells me they never have cars back for retorque, they slap 'em on, start em up, drive 'em out

Yep, all well and god that you made comment and some advice GD, but the gist of my post was more to make people think about the upgrade to the newer style of FL's in regard to the general advice just to swap colour for colour and the fact that people say they have no issues so far. If the swap colour for colour halved the the FFL capacity people would likely have problems. What I am trying to express would be say like my workmate when we were just starting to own and drive cars...his three Amp fuse in his sixties radio blew so he supposedly upped? the fuse of his delicate piece of gear to an unknown rated bit of cigarette packet foil and went on to cook his cars radio A problem beyond your fusible links is gonna be less likely to blow the FFL if you have doubled the rating. Every wreck I have or pass I grab the old FL's but people are finding it easier and more convenient and they look like they wont corrode - fit FFLs which are the new gen style plastic units I can say I have followed our theory and calculations and swapped one of my cars to the ratings half that or close to half the colour for colour swaps and also had no problems but felt happier knowing I was running half what others were, and waiting for that one time an FFL needs to blow, if ever. I have only ever seen fabric FL's break or corrode from age

Back to basics then...knock up a diagnostic temporary switch panel battery to coil, battery to fuel pump then battery to starter.....as if you were starting from scratch or trying to flog it! Do you know anyone you could fit your dizzy into their ea81 to try it?

Good idea thanks. I have not even looked at my spare rack to see what is what under all the paint the reco boys slapped on it years ago. Might be a drain refill plug. No idea if it is oil or grease ...a look through genuine manual might assist me too ///just too lazy maybe ??

What an epic story of great detail you wrote there, cant criticise you for that ! Those modules are not only for these era Subes, but can work in many Japanese cars with Hitachi distributors so it would be interesting to see if their manuals indicate same values as Subaru in the Chilterns. Could be a misprint in any manual also ! I commend you on your ability to check and understand most of this stuff, and you sound quite capable of making a temporary diagnostic bypass of the fuel pump safety control module that is looking for a signal from the coil which would be measured in Ohms, but then beyond me is are they square or round waves? Shove a resitor wheel in between coil and safety pick up as I had to in order to dial in my tacho. There are two things that can really trick you with these old beasts, dodgy fusible links and crud on the insides of the fuel line that tends to change in restriction size on colder temperatures, but I think you did clean out the insides of entire fuel lines and I know, you are chasing an Ohm problem in far greater detail than many of us understand. This is where it is time for you to buy a going wreck to cure the disease you are catching to interswap bits. Each time a module has let me down, it has given subtle warnings like a bit harder to start, then I need to ride my bike to fetch spares, but now I carry a spare module and two flat blade screwdrivers as a lucky charm. I have fitted $100AUD and US$40 and never had them fail me yet. Never measured their Ohms either, didnt know you could. Can you give us all a tute? As an alternative diagnostic, earlier EA81 had a points dizzy. Maybe if you have torn enough hair out, daughter shed enough tears coz dad is not as good with cars as he thought ...maybe a points dizzy, coil to suit, and resistor thing in its ceramic housing and teach daughter about Ketterings system fails like crusty points, burnt out points, worn rubbing blocks, bad earths and failed condensors?? Oh, yeah, ignition switches can get a bit crappy too, some need to install relays for the starter mtor, but I am also thinking a relay for ignition power would not be a bad thing, using a relay with fuse in its pouch and use a fues that has a blown indicator built in.

It will almost be 1.00am when I press post on this one, but its got me... when the issue arises of upgrading from the genuine fusible links covered in a clothy stuff to the newer generation Female Fusible links, people ask which swap for what those who have said the auto elec said just swap colour for colour, or the internet threads suggest it - all say they have never had any trouble with this well I reckon if you followed this for some fuse links you just beefed up the fuses rsistance by double, just ...the rest of your system is not beefed up, and usually we dont have FLs burn out too often, mostly corrosion issues at age 23 let me say, if you have gone colour for colour and you do burn a FFL out, the rest of your electrics gonna be fried well and truly if our figures stack up take the black cloth one for example, i think we worked out it was a 40A or protecting a circuit 'worth' up to 40A The black FFL is 80A like on Toyota glow plug circuits, so they can glow red/orange hot ! Wanna see disaster on your wires glowing a safe red hot before the 80A FFL blows ?? We as a collective arrived at look at the cloth one in place, say green, a green FFL is rated at 40 so halve that figure and use an FFL rated at 20 to replace the green fabric ones The red fabric/cloth/originals convert to FFL red is 50, so find an FFL of 25 if you can, think I went down to 20A FFL I reckon safer to have a lower FFL blow than a FFL rated at double what your system was designed for Now, having just busted into my gmail account since I almost carked it in July last year, I have 442 emails to catch up on! Hope this theory sparks up more debate than old Subes !!

Soon going to be fitting new inner and outer tie rods to a steering rack, think I should know the how and what to check and top up the slippery internals if anyone knows??

Recently got at my back passage for these pesky things without seat belt unbolt. It is necessary I think to rip the seat out for an easier life

Gosh, where did I get it from originally, goes back some years. I am working through unfinished projects where it seems I had a lot of stuff hoarded and on a mental to- do list. I think I got it from a scrap yard who have a shop for stuff they think is saleable. It is powder coated aluminium, but I hit it with vinyl spray that took to it rather well. I spent many hours, thinking about this, but short spaces at a time, not rushed, go away, bright idea comes to me, go look at it again, once at 2.30 am so would not forget when I woke up !

yes, I agree., reasons just sold one like it yesterday and was from my 89 Brumby, EA82 gearboxes clutch fork is more central. this pictured is more to one side, and it either looks like a flywheel is stashed inside the engine blocks bellhousing half [never seen them packaged like this] and the EA81 rear crank seal is housed in this housing and this is what it really looks like