jono

ahh...see we got the turbos to the end I think. back in 86, 87 the RX was priced at low 20's plus on roads and dealer delivery charges, the XT turbo is listed in a magazine as mid 30's and no extra for auto which back then would have normally attracted another two grand. At the same time you could have bought locally built GM-H VL Commodore with Nissans turbo 3.0 six pot screamer list price half that of an XT! Reckon they sold many XT's?? The dealers sales guys had a point system where if they sold an RX they got 4 points. Sell an XT they scored 8 points. One guy told me recently he sold four XTs in a month and got a trip to Japan, went through the factory and saw the flat six on the assembly line, think he shuddered at how hard it would be to sell that for its price! We did not get them The SVX first sold here I think low 70's !! I have an 88 ECU as a spare and it is different part number (just one more of the 21 different ECU part numbers for the EA82! to the 87. I need to physically compare my made in April 87 turbo manual awd dizzy with my spare, different part numbers there too - I should be referncing to part numbers uhuh ?

you said correctly ordered, but direction correct also? and in correct position? I once thought I just had to have the order and direction correct when I swapped all my six cylinder leads for new. Boy! Was I in for a learning curve that night !!. I think number one lead is the one most closest to the front like in a six of the clock position from viewing usual front of car facing engine. I use the Jono tagging method now, with coloured cable zip ties anything to do with 1 is red, and I recall red is one because same count of letters in the English word spelling anything to do with two is blue, because it rhymes and blue has one more letter than red anything to do with three is green, as three and green both have double ee, and green has one more letter than "blue" anything to, whoops ! do with four is yellow, as one more letter in yellow than green if you have any more cylinders work out your own sequence with black and white zip ties OK ?? I have also extended this colour theme to my tools 8mm spanners and T wrenches get black 10mm get red 12mm get blue 14mm get green 17mm get yellow 19mm get recycled - black as if I canna tel the difference between 8mm and 17mm stuff I better give up!! I am slowly going through my drill driver bits as well so any 8mm hex driver for sheet screws etc get gloss black all over, ten mm red paint, 12mm blue paint all over. Just requires finding, cleaning up with solvent, find a can colour, hit 'em, let the paint dry and harden and return back to where they should belong. As I find more not painted they get ID check first, then the treatment. Other odd sizes dont get no paint. Just far easir picking the correct tool when required. I cant make any money out of my system so may as well put it up out there under freeware licence agreement So, I tag both ends of HT leads when I know it is correct and working, but shoot it is hard to get that 1342 ingrained out of my head !! Yep, so spark has to occur at the correct time too, if you got the timing, position wrng you will still get spark just she wont fire!!

thanks I made use of the gap that occurs when using a particular L Series console after dropping the L Series five speed DR box in with no lever cuts. Its nice not having console bucket contents on display too having an L Serie lid as well I added a std power socket to the passenger side to make use of the not central set up so long plugs and straight cord does not interfere with other console sections, and a twin USB port on driver side, and a little ebay temp control device between them, really only visible when head is on flor but it will scream at a temp set by me, think 95 C it is. All this stuff has been kicking about for years just waiting for me to make the time I once saw a college kid walk through a car park where I was , yeah..parked. From where I was standing on an elevated grassy mound could not see my ute for the shrubs. This kid disapeared from view due to shrubs but did not reappear about time he should have. My mate I was with did not share same sixth sense and chipped me when I went to see why kid not pass by. The oxygen bandit trying to further educate himself decided to stick top half of his torso in my open window and fill his mits with my sh1t. As the torso retracted, I was able to wrap my spider arms through his bent at the elbows. Shoot, I nearly made him wet himself from the shock and fear of the surprise I had for him. He went fetal position on my, bawling his eyes out claiming he was just chasing his ball he reckoned went in my window. His excuse did not gel considering the clutch of stuff that dropped all over my seat and the ground as his nerve system packed in I bet he still cant walk through a car park and see an open window without a thought to that event !

ah, yes, as logic as the factory catalogue, of course..interior ta

And to add to the questions while on the topic. I have a post 87.5 distributor er.. 1988 or 1989 that I am told is not gonna work in my 87.5 as it stands, but can be reconfigured to work in the 87.5? Coz I would feel better knowing I have a spare dizzy I can carry about that is going to work on placement and not need a possible roadside dummy spit coz it needs careful dissembly in a hermetically sealed surgical theatre somewhere?? Any comment, useful or not appreciated. Diagrams even better, hotos be the ducks guts

regarding the 87.5 XT that seemed to be in production for what, six months - January to August 87 ?, the factory manuals that covered the tiny differences - such as the different distributor and ECU..were the differences covered in the factory manuals for 1987 XT or was it a tiny scrap of supplement of twenty pages or so? I have an electronic version of section 2, but I am of the generation that needs to thumb through smelly old paper and oil, grubby marks etc to be able to absorb the info ( short term anyway:) ) Being electronic data storage I need to nail it down in the glove box with a compact reader rather than have it mixed with other useless to me memory sticks. Unsure if the eversion spells out the differences between 87.5 and 87 ...or, was there even an 87 AND an 87.5 ? Did the XT just go from the 86 "three plug ECU, flapper AFM, separate knock control box, vac can on dizzy" to the 87.5 model "4 plug ECU, hotwire MAF, optical no can dizzy with knock control and spark control being the fourth plug of the ECU" and then August 87 shift to the 1988 model with small changes to the 4 plug ECU and optical distributor" ? So, if that just thought of idea is correct, any 1987 factory manual will contain all needed to be known about the unit we all seem to call " the 87.5" ??

This was not just a Saturday arvo knock up! I ended up hitting it with not quite dark gray vinyl paint, and it looks pretty neat if I don't say so myself. I cut the entire hash tray and radio fascia out, made a brace across the top behind the mesh and employed a plastic, textured push pin trim plug each side. I nearly splashed out on a DIN sized front speaker for below but could spend pennies better. Hope I have inspired a few more custom jobbies☺

pesky noise coming from glovebox lid at times, all Brumbys are the same, this is my third to do so. This time, the lid came apart and stuffed with polyme fabric sound deadener. Wool fat on the hinge, and some heat shrink on the catch. While I was in there thought better see why fresh air or recirculate function was hit and miss. When I installed L Sries vacuum reservoir I stuck one of the tiny one way valves arse about (rush job?) Got that sorted and found the Brumby air control vacuum doodad beside under glovebox would work after engine shut down several times ! I also hit the big spring with heatshrik just to help with NVH Lovebox lock lubed and now quiet and tight. Also stuff some self adhesed foam on the ionsertr to assist with NVH once again. This baby is now so quiet it would make it possible to hold bluetoof conversations via the stereo even when driving !!

really skishop, crinkly one day by sound, soft and quiet next day, neat, no added water. Tarp is next

Was it going OK before you treated it to thestable full of goodies? Two things on no start is fuel and spark if it has spark, next trick is to use some form of coaxing, even a tiny dribble of fuel down its throat can make a diference, then there is starter fluid in spray cans...just watch for a backfire when spraying firewater at it!

looking for accelerator cables for the Brumby, cant see any listed, so suppose no longer available from them...any idea what section they would be in ?? thanks The LHD are 100mm longer than our stingy RHD version, bit more relaxed in the engine bay

then that starts a whole lot of other problems :) My Weber sits on the shelf in prep for our country selling more gas than we should ...oops, stupids have already signed up for that, causing all sorts of grief !!

I was gonna say you were lucky - one less thing to give any trouble

Originals are oil. A lot of after market stuff is also oil but gas pressurised and tell tale is they are strapped or bound in shortest position and spring to longest upon release. Hearing something top out? Did you inspect the top mounts for worn or dry bushing? And point them same direction. As they came out?

Twenty four hours ago my inside door trims were crinkly sounding. Apply neat glycerine , a popular rubber reviver, and today the vinyl is silent and soft. I used this stuff on an old castor bar rubber and next day it looked like a new polymer copy!!

Did mine in time for the first rain in a while, and wipers...just like a new car they are !! Another cheap and cheerful job to keep the MYs going

I recently discovered after an engine swap that my tacho was reading a bit too high. The 1400 idle did not sound or feel like 1400 and the power coming on at 6000rpm was pretty wicked up to 8000rpm A chat with one of the company's tech guys explained there can be a few factors to cause a tacho to tell fibs. I was told an inline resistor between coil and tacho may fix it, so I hooked up my little resistor wheel to the tacho and mounted up my old L Series tacho to the dash top on its own as I had pulled it from the gauge set. Took it for a run, and sat about revving it like a tosser a and in no time at all my after market tacho was calibrated to match the ea82 tacho with a 6800 Ohm resistor inline Never heard of this process before but was pretty simple to resolve. And cheap, like was it eight resistors I had to buy for total cost of 55 cents!

I was gonna say sounded like injector problem...

Often find there are some things that an old sube requires that is not in any service listings. One thing I did today was lubricate the pivots below each wiper arm but. Removed the cowling to wash out the internal gutters and while there pulled one wiper nylon base and lubed it up with crc556. The other I drilled a hole in its side underneath the pivot cover and sprayed lube in hole I think my wiper motor loves me for it, and in return will continue to serve me for many years to come

What he said above. I find using the trip meter also helps says the fella who uses an led reader and last week found that once the red bar showed all he got was another 500 meters

Update...little bit off a buzz rattle sometimes but happy. I happened to be welding next to and right over fresh black silicone. Must say never seen silicon melt. Seen it char and burn to a crisp though

I think the Duplicolour dark gray looks better match than the vinyl spray I bought that looks more brown than claimed dark gray. Knuckles I had a Jonny Stratos seat that sort of squeezed me cheeks so may have helped leg not hit speakers....but my knee closer to gear knob than side of console

Spoke to silicon manufacturer today on another topic and raised this one. Not that he knew how hot the exhaust can get he recommended what I used , roof plumbing stuff. He did offer that an acetic cure type silicone would have a higher working temp but may react with the metals

I reckon we would all love to see copies of receipts worth seven grand on this engine!!

I agree withGloyale on the single pin connector in black being the knock sensor connector but can't see how it is in that position for the photo, maybe series two are wired that way? It should then fit to a green knock sensor just next to the rear pcv breather tube back of the block at the top rear of cyl #3