jono

Not Narva 56230 and 56231?

Where do you propose this one wheel to be? Are you asking about if you had a rear LSD?

Thanks for the review Knucklehead. In the speed of the moment I checked the battery side fuse not the accessory side the blinkers work off. It was blown. Think due to unused uninsulated spare male of an unsecured relay may have tried to rape the combo switch connector. One less fuse collection now

After all these years I only just discovered that the wire trace line....well this subie loom off cut Iam using actually has two trace lines!! The only way iI found out was I used a permanent marker to change the white trace to green to match the wire i am splicing ( learnt this word from Donald Duck cartoons forty years ago!) Wire is the high beam for light bar relay and I like to keep wiring same. I marked the line last night and this morning the green appeared to have soaked in and faded! Then I made the discovery trace should be called traces.

I need to start a fashion in the diagnostic calls for ideas - the declaration that I have been tinkering in the wiring department on the drivers side underneath the dadashboard. But never touched indicators I swear. Driven a few times since, so is it coincidence that I just lost my tickers? No lights at all, outside or on the dash cluster. I think in past when ticker can goes still get lights and no flash I have hazards, and was handy at first coz just left side flashed then both sides started to flash...so fixed that problem I guess will start with spare flash can but think hazards also use this can, not their own?

Results from using seat of the pants dyno ☺

Interference?

Give us some measures, gender or photo of what you want. I have some odd stuff I bought for much same thing

I have a Craftsman that has taken its place. Tsunami Mark sent it to me before he vanished with my other stuff

Nope it don't. It is sort of above my leg. Funny, I didn't even consider me or it getting in the way. I forfeited the lower storage shelf and stuffed the cavity with a car wash sponge

Well a week later and curing smell and smoke is all gone and just the tiniest of rattle if you can call it that, has returned. Happy with my approach

Or dig deeper in yrr pockets?

Looks like my favorite plug spanner so well angled and suited to plug changes on my Subes....the Champion Plugmaster CT900 has worn out its ratchet so now its ratchit. Such a nice finish to it, perfect ratchet, beaute angle....got it in 1983. Same not appear to be made no more, no replacement ratchets to go in handle? Anyone know?

Just thinking of how others modify their radio consoles in today's era. A lot has changed since Subaru brought us throw away cars that just aren't ready to be thrown away up to thirty years later. Below are two of mine. The one with CD playing device has my front speakers housed in its sides The other has not yet got its entertainment device thought out but has a passenger side power supply which will be std CIG socket and other side will get this double USB power socket. I have EA82 gearbox and console so have a gap of about 65 mm between radio console and gearshift console so can access these power sockets. The other unit is a Chinese made temp unit alarm or switching device I will use to read engine metal temp to switch fans at my preferred temp of 85 to 90 C. Gonna use another for cabin or ambient, maybe another to monitor propane converter to alarm before freezing from coolant loss Show us your console changes yeah?

Add some text

I called mine a mongrel coz it is a mix of parts from different ea82 configs. The dizzy is a carb unit so with spring clips to retain cap, so not screw down dizzy cap of the injecteds. It is a 4WD carb dizzy from 87 model. It has what is described as the twin modules in it. You'd likely need a manual to get its advance details. I am running a tuning LED O2 reader and it says running lean but can't recall if this reader by Peel Instruments is the one I adjusted to reflect the tail pipe analyser

Huh...even down under I run mizpah engineering's lovingly rebuilt hvla! Fuel injector additive neat is a good soak for injectors...maybe good to soak valves in it?

Well mister, please share the things you did to your last ea82 natural aspiration build with us here. I have already shared mine being short block from carb 87 touring wagon, heads are from a turbo so has longer stem exhaust valves, oil feed and return blocked off. Intake is mpfi twin port. Exhaust is ea82 efi y pipe then factory ea81 tiny stuff so is quiet. All the noise is from induction via Impco 200 mixer and box air box and panel filter. Impco throat is 2.75". Run 22 degrees timing @800 rpm. My fuel is about 109 RON. Highest pump fuel here is mostly 98. Some places have 100 and ethanol 85 is 107 RON No flow work done to heads. Cams could be anything ...early turbo grind comes to mind. Running 175.70.13 on H mags from RX. Tailshaft is out.

The curing smoke and smell is clearing up slowly. Pinching or bashing was thought of but I was in a lazy and creative mood. If they rattle again it might be a cut off wheel job. But this engine and exhaust is only temporary until I rehead my ea82t, fix my awd selector issue then this beast will be different again. Nearly thinking don't need turbo the way its going!!

Viola

Wash it see if you can make it happen. It is a Subaru and not an English car?

Mmmm... Was general poroise silly stuff with a working range up to 150*C. Smell starting to disappear along with the curing smoke and the rettlehas not returned.Can't imagine how much ultra copper would cost by the cartridge!!

Thanks for the name. I had a brain wave after posting this. Wondered if I can make do with cheap hobby alloy or brass tube. I know I have some stashed. Just gotta work out my filing system last time I saw it. Hope it wasn't the rotary file ( bin)

If anyone has stripped a factory wiring loom and found those brass wire crimp connectors, usually where on wire becomes two as in the earth wires.....you then know what I want I refuse to use standard auto insulated crimp connectors or scotch locks I hate how scotch locks tend to cut wire strands as the joiner bites in. As for the insulated crimps have seen them cause too much grief A seller of after market electronic ignition kits set me right back in 1990 by insisting I use utilux h953 Connectors that have no clear coating no insulators and best used with their crimp tool #61 iI think it is, curls the crimp in nice and tight then next bit on the wire insulation so job looks like those seen in backs of home electrical white goods. I slip a heat shrink tube in before connector is crimped and then larger dia heat shrink over the main body of connector for a never fail join. Now I want those loom join crimp tubes. Anyone know correct name and where to get? My fall back connectors are insulated. I heat up insulation with CIG lighter to remove and chuck. These I find do not have the second crimp for wire and its insulation. The guy way back also hated customers trying to solder hook ups and warned warranty void if not installed to his strict instructions

Another 25 km run and I am sitting in beast trying to avoid the curing fumes after stopping. Stinks pretty bad. It ain't dripping out neither