jono

According to ado it yourself website silicon will melt not burn

I think this method earns a " don't try this at home boys and girls" tag. It is still smoking after two 25 km drives! Never seen silicone actually combust yet. So keeping an eye on it until smoke stops.

Might be a good safety tip there Dave, thanks. I used roof and gutter silicone. Previously ( and I mean over 30 years previously) I used glazing silicone on exhausts before the automotive industry seamed to have caught on. Yet to have any troubles I tell you what though, the noise,vibration and harshness level has dropped significantly. Very pleased with the result so far. Yes, the holes I filled would ideally be air cooling vents for the rattlers with seized nuts n bolts. Might not have used my noggin totally in the approach. I did see some pale smoke drift out while stopped at traffic lights after , but at least no flippin' rattle

Anyone know if front ea82 door hinges are same as XT front door hinges?

Sorry if anyone has been waiting for breast augmentation but I think I have slowed up the silicone supply by my attempts to qui ten that incessant and embarrassing rattle. Got underneath and started injection if silicon between the shields through holes already provided. I think half a cartridge fixed it. I broke one gun .

Ferp, I might have confused you at some stage when I asked how a low comp turbo 7.7:1 might run without its turbo. This engine is not that concept. It is about 9.0:1 running a fairly high octane propane of about 109 ozRON and is bloody impressive over any ea81 I have built and almost like my ea82T just not as punchy but no turbo lag either. Running ea82 y pipe to stands ea81 to tail pipe

If you are looking for better brakes a complete overhaul is worth the effort. Do caliper kits, new rotors and pads, all hoses, new shoes, machine drums and lubricate pivot points.

That reply above based on work on my 89 ute. Just found switch from my old 84 ute and it is two wire but one wire makes contact with body ground as well. I was eyeing off nice mounting booted switches of early liberty one wire body grounding type.has a screw to hold switch in place instead of luck. May be correct length for us. I have also used L series door switch but need end to pack door side to make it switch off

Thanks for the smart work. It is suspected tacho is way out and useless. Something to take up with the company. I do have somewhere my ea82 tacho in a box I should hook up and compare. If I find tachi is out it is just a waste of space time and money.

Very tidy Richo. Does it smell like grandpa's hair slick stuff still?

OK the thumbnails above taken with this non phone device...a pad? One shows where I marked throttle pull can with white corrector. The black bracket was wider away from body and white was stopping on it to give minimal throttle. Still ran quite well. Just acc pedal not hitting floor as they do in rhd....wheel well gets in the way

If in my five speed part time 4wd box from ea82 I don't know gear ratios figure all the same for3.7:1 diff ratio. If I reach 80 kph in second gear on 175.70.13 tyres nearly new tread....am I really doing the near 8000 rpm my tacho tells me?

The 2nd gen are a two wire switch not sure if it is pos or neg switching there. Many other makes n models I have pinched switches from are single wire which may work if ours are earth switching but suspect not. I just cleaned mine out with mx3, to working and found a near suitable rubber boot added silicone to hold switch in place and boot on. Working fine now. Thinking we need a timed button push on dash

Pictures speak a tousand words and I left it out Story to this post is I discovered an error of mine. I made a bracket for my LHD acc cable in my rhd ute. When I had to alter it I still forgot to check it did not interfere with throttle opening I discovered it did, massively! I could get a six mm drill bit between throttle body inside and the brass butterfly at max throttle. Six point five was too big. A quick fix with hacksaw and caliper paint gave full throttle. Now this how I recall my mongrel In aus we got lots of multi point injected ea82 in XT, in royals ea82 sedans and touring wagons all non turbo My short is from an 87 touring wagon that I parted up with pristine 188,000 km. The heads are twin port turbo heads with longer stem exhaust valves. The inlet is from turbo coz needed to block off turbo coolant line below thermostat. It now runs impco 200 mixer and L converter and 22* btdc @800 rpm My new saas tacho says idling at 1400 rpm. It has this on cam like burst of energy at 6000 rpm. Heard from a guru ( Hi Greg) that hydraulics won't operate well above 6500 rpm, so starting to doubt new tacho when it tells me I hit 8000 rpm in second of five of my 87 touring wagon manual part time 4wd box whatever ratio it is on 175.70.13 tyres. Saw 80 kph at 8000 in second. I have an air filter box from aGM 3800cc v6 car and 2.75" induction tract I dunno why ferp thinks it is an engine to suit industrial stationary purposes!!

Can we see some photo s please?

I just need to make it open a bit more. Picture to come later. Given how well my EA82 Mongrel goes with such limitations in place I wonder how much better it will go when throttle opens up wide! Dunno how to get pics from phone to post

Always heard above theory but never experienced it when running t stat free between minus 5 to plus 40 C

What size belt are you using? Some EA82 ran twin pulleys and twin belts. Belts seem to differ depending whether you have air cond and or power steering. Have been told some belts are no longer made and was more their width rather than length. I stepped up to next wider belt but this also translates to different lernth sometimes But, tell us what size and brands you been through maybe?

OK. For many years I ran a cheap halogen spottie mounted in the cavity behind the plate with two scrrws sits beside rear number plate on the back of a Brumby. It was simply powered direct from reverse light power, no relay and with both factory reverse bulbs. No problems encountered I am attempting to not fit same to new Brumby. I am nearly finished grafting halogen 55 watt from same spottie into the bulb holder of the factory reverse light to make factory reverse brighter in just one side, plan to add reflector material inside as well. Question is am I loading this circuit near to its factory limits by adding this 55 watt bulb? Not that I drive in reverse for long. Not having clear lenses don't expect same resulting light. Any calculation results welcome

Is there also coolant that prairie dogs about the carb base like ea81? Not sure if it has a flow but maybe just heat transfer so may need carb off to check

Tinkling noise sounds like pre ignition or pinging which is too much timing advance for the fuel. How many grades of fuel? Running cheapest or best? Low comp on one cylinder not going too fix itself. Sounds like a rebuild again

I would run it without thermostat to see if any change. Also found the gauge temp sender below thermostat can be unreliable after so many years. Mine only ever showed no more than 1\4 until I swapped in a cleaned used one. I would never run these 82's beyond 2/3 on gauge

Gotta be a connection there somehow. All bits from other cars of mine come together in latest beast June 89 Brumby ( should call her June) and get this horrid vibration so swapped in another known single piece tail shaft and same crap so pulled it and bunged up the output and made a bracket to keep it there. Vibration gone. Next trick is to follow my Subaru Gurus advice and check the alignment of drivetrain

Changing the size if my propane carb fixed my drivability problems. The turbine housing and turbo exhaust in the na was not the cause of bad running

Hmmm....standard ea82 exhaust in now from head to tail. Sounds bit quieter, lost the ej turbo sound but still got poor driveability issues. I reminded self the last time this ute on the road it suffered something very sudden on an intersection take off, crippling it to extent of limp home rather embarrassed blowing a sordid concoction of coolant, oil and steam. It was an engine sat for a decade rotting internally before I did heads and gaskets. I figured the home finish of the heads failed me. Engine did not even get a post mortem. I now wonder if current engine is crippled by a problem in my vapour fuel system, and nothing wrong with old donk? Before old donk was pulled I tried a sealwel and all ran well enough in the yard no load after. The two 82s I have run tested in ute have only been no load tested since until these recent days. Off to swap converters and inspect current one