jono

Yes. I think to isolate the LED units first before chasing any goose. Boy ranter are you wrong about the night vision compares to factory lights....well, before this happened!thanks, will come back when sorted

Yes. I think to isolate the LED units first before chasing any goose. Boy ranter are you wrong about the night vision compares to factory lights....well, before this happened!thanks, will come back when sorted

Been there, done that. I did everything trying to resolve very similar issues. Thanks to a mob of smart are head reconditioners in Melbourne Australia I went on a further goose chase. Shoot, is it US based things that won't accept the word smart arse or my tablet? The smart arses claimed my valve springs were within spec, funny the factory manuals don't use a high and low parameter....I did all the tune stuff, injector swap and service, new hvla and when they went in got worse. Even worse when I went propane. Propane, turbo and a miss not good when overtaking with auto tranny. Then some guy on a forum said he knew what it was ...weak lazy valve springs getting bullied by hvla, more so with new hvla. I got new genuine spring sets and as I installed them could see the ones the head place said were within spec - soft as flipping marshmallows! Gotta be worth you trying same ?

I have learned to use both wires of existing circuits in subies to ensure relays switch things right☺

Quads but the inners(which are high beam only) now have Chinese 15 LED lamps found on eBay for Landcruisers of similar age. The LED have worked fine for two years until this high beam problem I termittently not work happened. It has now progressed from intermittent to no high beams either use the flash high beams part of switch or normal highway driving high beams on. Wondering if anyone has a diagram for quad lights that shows a separate relay other than the Mitsubishi style cylindrical relays near fuse panel in MY EA81 body style

I have LED inserts for the high beam inners of the quads and they have been available for service sometimes, other times choosing to go out or rather not switch on when asked of. Of course the lows drop out and if I have highs in the outers which sure I do, they drop out as well.The relay I thought was high beams under bonnet on a bracket with fan? Relays checked out fine. No separate high beam fuse marked in panel. Low beams work fine just dim and makes our kangaroos but hard to pick out in the dark . you are only gonna see the orange of their eyes once a blue moon

Thanks for the info it will be helpful. Gotta say my local dealer uses genuine on ej with new bolts and not need retention. I have found same using quality genuine hg on me ea82s. Even though I check tension they never take any.

Any advice for ej novice intending to do the leaky hg on 2003 Fox 2.5 sohc I think it is? Timing belts been done. What other parts required hg rocker gaskets? Intake and exhaust I'm sure Any fiddly ones to order like an ea82 and its can box o rings Genuine part numbers be handy too if you can. Any preferred trusted suppliers of after market?

Drove my dream XT today quiet smooth no rattles noises or smells. Pulls nice and gets some wtf looks

That's it won't shift on the bench either. A lot if time passed since I bought it, first clean, strip and reassemble. I will come back when I open it up again. Ta

Good answer.much the same shopping for post 84 Brumby s it is easier to quote 84 model

It was rubber. If a part number could be posted up in here more than one reader likely to benefit

Its a Subaru engine for starters is it?

Another idea banging around in my head is can get some low use ea81 cheap. Got an spfi intake, another spare turbo and pipe, an mad boost retard control for any old coil some left over bit s so thinking turbo LPG ea81 not so hard to do

Restrictive I also thought so that is where the die grinder, hacksaw and drill press came in ...cut out the interference☺

Thanks again. Will not touch that switch until ready to get in there and repair

Box is out. On the shelf for now as won't be able to get it past road worthy without sway bar. Current sway bar and awd box do not work together. Good trial run with oil in it as see one switch developed a drip overnight. I will try removing all those bits that could impact on it before pulling down again. I had to remove the bolt deep in some part as I did not have skill to juggle things apart. Likely do same again. Thanks Gloyale

Again thanks for comment, tips and honesty. Apologies that I have found the better description in the owners booklet. Stupid me rushedto read in bad light. It is thepush again to release button that is not working as designed. Remedy seems to be support backing oanpanel by partially press in the headlights up and on side button. Problem was made worse by the fact if u manually wound lights down they powered back to up position viz switch stuck in! I wonder if there is some magic trick to restore the plastic prior to touching or. Once off say soak for a month in lux washing flakes or something!? Soak in mineral oil? Again, thanks

Got some may have only done fifteen years service

Exactly! You did good job of understanding. I have isolated everything and still no go so box is coming out

No. This baby is a carb block sporting turbo heads( they were sitting around at the time ten years ago) an efi yep turbo intake manifold sniffing propane , no turbo. But then carried out an idea I had years ago , fitted turbo exhaust manifold and a gutted exhaust half of a turbo. Plated up the cast housing where core came out. Bolt up my turbo exhaust from GLTA turbo back to tail pipe. It is non turbo. Curious to hear what sound I get when I start it up and get to drive it.

Current pic taken on my my last day driving the GLTA April 2014. Her little heart sitting on the floor ever since waiting power up my spare steed. It is happening.

Watch this thread. Got the 89 Brumby, twin port ea82 " the mongrel" , snorting propane care of Impco. Managed to fit up the custom exhaust from my 85 GLTA while I had my ea82t in for a fitting. Now the mongrel has a 41 mm turbo base plate exhaust cross over up pipe. Next trick was to gut an unknown turbo for its housing and a die grind session interrupted by hacksaw and drill press sessions. Added a hand rail end plate 115 mm to cover where the input side should normally be all ready to bolt up the factor y cat and custom 2.5" custom system. See if I can get a wrx or ej or even a turbo sound out of the even more of a mongrel

OK. Project 2009 and project 2006 or was it 2005 are now underway in joint effort. I may be preempting but can't select gears even though not finished piecing together. The box is in my 89 Brumby behind an ea82 mongrel, not all is tightened up, clutch cable still not either but find cannot select gears in no run state. Box came sans selectors so used the 5 speed buts of dual range ea82 shifters and had TT em selecting on the ground ...well at least before I stripped box to swap the 23 splines in. The shifters rear support bush bolts to floor a little further back from where the dual range ea82 box shifter mount did. Not sure if needs to be mounted bit lower than floor level. Stay rod also not connected during panic session and car on stands. Might be all fine when stitched up, but if anyone done this love to hear your tips n tricks. Jono

You all understood me completely. Makes a lot if sense , but who wants to drive around in daytime and look like your old beast has a problem. Gawd they are ugly with eyes open - lights on or not. And the snow option, rather icing. As smart as with summer winter wiper switch. Thanks heaps. I think a screw may be loose on this backing of the switch rack. Button would not release on its own. Required partially press of lights on button to release. Hey I still got the looks on the road. Gonna mount concealed light bar it will look good if I have to flash high beams in daytime. Again thanks for explaining well better than owner manual