jono

No edit button on my phone so continue story here. If I pull battery power lights stay down until power back on they go back up. Accidentally found if push in usual headlight on and up top side button at same time as press just flip button I got flip button to release and joids closed thankfully. Us this normal function? When push top front facing buttion see others move a bit as if a screw us loose inside and recall my once good friend tsubaru have similar problem. BTW anyone know of turbine or tsubaru lately. The latter still to post my goodies from five years ago

The second button down on right binnacle looks to indicate it flips lights up or down. Twice in six years I have touched and lights stayed up but never on. The owner manual words and chart very hard to detwrmine use and function. button would not release from in pressed in position. If I wind down manually they still power back to up position

Tell you what....everyone compares old worn out rear drum set up to old disc performance. I was surprised when fitted new hoses wheel slaves pulled apart cleaned and lubed adjuster mech and new fluid on ea81 ....felt like disc performance for 10,000km at least. Time for adjusting to see if restores performance

OK. Won't waste time

Has anyone run a low compression 7.7:1 turbo ea82 without the turbo? I reckon ea82t goes OK before boost cuts in so wondering....

At least use the engine cross member and retain LHD brake master.

Sticked not stocked!

That.makes sense thanks. Fitting ea eighty two t into Brumby without ecu and any wet fuel delivery system. The ecu in donor was not controlling as per manual. It worked all temps all speeds yet all solenoids were good...ecu first found solenoid "stocked to open or shut" so that was fixed. I once had a frequency switch kit for speed control....gave up on idea. Just a temp range digital unit can take care this time. Thanks

EFI not EDI !!

Wondering if anyone has monitored an ea82 EDI coolant temp device to see if is a simple rich or not rich switch for ecu or does it give variable ohm reads to ecu to vary fuel delivery? I want to use it as an egr switch just to operate at op temps

just do not put incorrect rear end diff ratio to the front ratio though! If you change the rear ratio need to change front as well, unless you have a 4WD part time, auto 3 speed like my GLTA which had 3.45:1 front diff, 3.7:1 rear

Gosh, it is over two years since I dissected that beast and the wiring is still scattered about in some chaotic state - I cant remember just how separate the wiring was ...... But I do recall stripping the wiring from the loom, so must be all wrapped up. The KCM is on the opposite side of the car to the ECU though I also have a US sourced KCM and wiring - guessing it is longer shorter? glovebox on different sides in US market yet coil stays put.... KCM is a different part number too. From memory the FSM does not show all the knock wiring in the loom for some reason. My first knock sensor was RS, broken and rusted out. Yours may be same. S1 are white with two pins, S2 and beyond green plastic and one wire

I have heard of just one EA82T with a contact between valve and piston causing some bend after a timing belt slip or break. Yours makes the second out of three forums. Can you post up a pic of the removed valve? I have had one head in need of a new valve guide as the valve stem had worn enough tp allow a3mm ? sideways movement in the head and cause a mystery performance problem. Fixed with a K-line insert and in my current EA82Mongrel. I am wondering if you guide is nice and round inside to allow its angle and interference change, or just the guide slipped in to allow this - me thinks.

just realised how bad my single headlights are on high beam without my driving lights. Thinking back people do a relay conversion to get better light output. Just wondering why a relay addition supposedly works as we already have the round Mitsubishi ? factory relays 22A under dash, one per side, or is it one per beam ? Something new, fancy and legal would be good. Mind you, after constant dazzling by new cars with LED style factory lighting that has a flat top line light cut rather than the angle this way or that way [depending on left or right hand drive] I am thinking any ebay light purchase will do me . If I get enough feedback my lights are bad - I'll then know they ain't good

that is handy to know of aftermarket stuff and your suggestion of a light or bulb is a good one [was thinking hook up to a horn by my ear be better ], although what I like is the variability of the digital readout so you'd know if you saw the max of 4.5V readout you know you have hit max and got max retard [10 deg ?] going on. I have found a diagram and looks like the usual IGN and earth hook up, the phase control signal wire to read the Volts off to a dash meter, a pos and neg hook up to the two pin sensor and their shield wire. The S2 still have knock control but is all within the 4 plug ecu and uses a single pin knock sensor. If the 4 plugger could be monitored, would take an electronics genius to cut the workings out of an ecu. The 3 plug ecu S1 is a stand alone set up in its own box. Looks like it is up to me to knock one up - sometimes a little concerned at the 22*BTDC I am running in my NA EA82 twin port in my ute. It is funny, the more power I get, the more I want to use, and still not enough sometimes

Just wondering if anyone has salvaged the knock control circuit from the 1st series EA82T to simply monitor knock detection on other non knock models ? I am thinking it would be reasonably simple to swipe the KCM module from between glovebox and car body, its wire loom and knock sensor. The idea would be to wire it up deleting the wires to actually control timing advance/retard and use the test wire [white one wire plastic plug, BW near coil] to feed a Volt reader display. Tricky bit might be finding a good spot to drill and tap the block for knock sensor if not using an efi EA. I used to run a small SLA battery in the glovebox to power up a clock hole mounted Voltage reader display [has to be able to display low Voltage like 1.7 V !] and monitored the reading of the knock control circuit. Was great to be able to see knock was at a minimum despite 12 psi boost. Rarely left the 1.7V reading except for hurried driving or up hill loads like a trailer being hauled behind. Even more comforting to know when I discovered I forgot to hook up the knock control to the dizzy too - for months ! The joys of propane maybe ?? I am planning to build a higher comp EA82 NA using mpfi block so it has the knock sensor threaded hole I hope and considering this as project # 555 in the future

an engineer xxxx head I know loves to sprout the gaskets job is to seal and sealant should not be used but next time I fit an EA82 into an EA81 chassis I am flippin' using sealant and new seals and gaskets and the PCV hoses ! Engine either needs to be lifted off mounts at least or removed to re-do in my case

I am curious how you figure you get more lift from a cam by shaving the head or deck. Surely once you adjust valve to rocker clearances you get the same lift ?

i use a 450 or 600 [forget] breaker bar and jam it in the tie down / tow loop welded to the underside of the chassis with socket on pulley bolt, radiator removed just in case and disconnect coil , quick flick of starter and very quick off again usually does mine on 81 and 82

Bill has missed the point of this being a non XT6 - caught up in the excitement But still wants you to buy it like the rest of us

don't be fooled that a coolant loss being fixed is the reason for the loss of power and that if you buy it, fix coolant loss any power loss will be returned. John, I am curious of this cracked turbo suggestion. Have you had/got a cracked VF2 ? I suspect I have one, fixed by a miracle block in cooling system stopped exhaust steam i did new HG and service heads when steam began, kept steaming after and oddly it all began the day after I used a cooling system cleaner. The turbo cast iron section has a white "tide" mark like lime seeping from wet cement or brick work - lime ? After near thirty years the coolant banjo bolts that screw into turbo rot rather nasty. Really needs /worthy of a strip and inspect which is likely what seller has been told !

from what I have seen with some rubber parts of cars over the years is it seems it needs to be worked. Leave it motionless for long periods and you start to get rot and decay - perishing. If these air bags are rubber and been sitting for years I would expect rot. The air lines from the pump and its distributor system in the front left guard/fender space lead all through hard to reach places in its 2.5mm OD line - very hard to trace a fault if there is one in the nylon pressure line.The computer that drives suspension in RHD cars is under LHS front seat. I think the main drift here is if you have problems with air suspension you suck it in and go std unless you have lots of hair to pull out, money to burn. Have you put a deposit on it yet ?

I think motoring journos have found the new cars suspension not really up to expectation when doing their road tests, so just because it is air suspension worth about A$1000 a corner from what I have heard - may not be the ducks guts you might think it would be. I have owned three Subes, that were born with air suspension but replaced with normal stuff by the time I got to them. From what i recall reading, all XTs were efi mpfi EA82, the first ones just FWD and complaints that they were too powerful and losing traction off road, next gen got the part time 4WD boxes, then next gen got the AWD boxes in 5MT and E4AT

the special power steering fluid is a comment only if it is an XT6 surely ? buy it !

no one has mentioned my trick to use a flat blade screwdriver, usually just the stumpy one and jamb it into the slot that the bolt closes down on. I have had a pair that measured up 0.5mm more than other new ones I had, or measured. Complained to the ebay supplier who smart arsedly replied that they were a press fit. I ended up runing them down to spec on the bench grinder. I mistakenly bought another pair of same brand as problem ones Mitsuba boxed BJ from same supplier years later. Went in like a dream as the measured up correctly.