jono

when I did my 5 speed swap, I used an EA82 cable and cut some major pivot point off the pedal box to make a mounting point with a different angle. For me to go backwards would mean another unmolested pedal box. Later, when I fitted an EA82 engine and clutch I had to scratch my head an awful lot before I worked out I also needed the extra cable pull 10mm of an EA82 clutch pedal . Did you do same ? MAYBE if you posated up pics of what you have we can all see it ?

Can understand why now with a stuck box. What I canna understand is why people feel the need to do anything other than install the 5 speed and hi lo shifters as they were in the EA82. Some wanna retain the insides console. I fitted up an EA82 console to suit the levers action for selecting 4WD 3 posts - you didn't get laughed at in here then. I have done one 5 speed EA82 4WD box into EA81 body with a lot of forum help, questions and photos. So, you are going back to a 4 speed, just where are you stuck ? My engine bay pics - can't do at the moment, relearning how to do stuff after ditching an ISP and OE that worked with it. And pics would be RHD

Nathan, you are another inspiring me to try similar. So, did you keep a note of how many wires you hooked up, how many of the ECU you just snipped ? I can't believe you did this starting off thinking an Engine Control Unit was needed to run the rest of the cars electrics and now you have it running !! Good on ya. Did ya feed a speed sensor to the ECU from the back of the speedo head unit on the back of the cluster circuitry ? Some find you need to , others deny Can you close the bonnet ? Is car std height or on lift blocks ?

alarm bells are ringing from experience - engine oil sitting for ten years and fuel sitting for ten years can and likely wil cause gummed up intake valve stems - hmm must be flat battery, get a stronger one, WHOOMPA and it starts, runs on two or three cylinders - bent push rods, fuel tank all barnacled up - you'd hope tank is empty so you can pull the sender to inspect inside before guessing buy price ....

Just realised seeing an exhaust pipe for XT6 each bank has two ports for three pots I am guessing one port does two pots, the other just one pot. Are the ports the same size whether they dump one or two pots or is the single a smaller diameter in the head ? I rate this question about same level of curiosity as to whether the middle slugs pin is removed via the front or rear access plug hole and how long are the c clip plier noses to do such ??

might also pay to measure the depth of the recess in case they have been made deeper to take the 20mm HVLA's. Just measured mine to the high side of the brass? bushing insert ~30mm some clever machinist made do with what was available and must have machined up something to be able to use smaller diameter HVLA as said before , ductran, can you post a pic of your old next to the new 21mm ones? Yes, surely a machine shop can increase the ID of your bushings in the heads to suit the factory HVLAs you have now - see if you can find the specs in the manual. A machinist probably knows the needed clearance

I get nervous anywhere above half on these old girls, just above half on EA81 my fan comes on, another EA81 about 3/4 before fan goes on. My first EA82T ran no more than 1/4 ever, until I swapped in another sender 9used and cleaned and polished ) then I got a more true reading that reflected my watchdog TM2

well, I picked a good topic for discussion eh? my 1985 first series GLTA 4WD sedan I suspect was the original engine had the damper and for some reason I drilled, well, actually, I lined up a timing belt drive pulley on the back of the balancer and drilled some pretty coarse metal out of it to fit spring roll pins from balancer to pulley for fitment, not to drift of centre - 10 years ago - I forgot why. Two 180 degrees apart and bought a used import from Japan I suppose it was, also had balancer and non spider manifold. There have been some businesses about that reco harmonic balancers, but I suspect as cheap imports replace skills and busniess viability, may no longer be able to get these done. Only ever see solid one piece crank pulleys on NA, carb and mpfi here in Oz Wonder if anyone has had a crank balanced for these EA82T or even NA and found benefit ?

very good question BUMP!!

thanks for the update My thoughts aftyer seeing Ivans comment, re EA71 piston strength, not sure if he was commenting on factory or aftermarket slugs. I have some aftermarket slugs for EA82T that have his preferred drilled holes rather than slots for oil ring oil return. Dual exhaust to do some duelling eh ? The most awesome sounding EA I have heard was Willys EA71 with his reijigged exhaust design, called unequal [but so too is the original Y pipe unequal] - sounds like a turbo EJ. I am afraid your dual exhaust, knowing nouhght about what you have done, may sound like the orbital technology I heard running in a BMW 3 ? series about 15 years ago - bit odd it sounded just idling .... here is a link to a story on it ..reckon I was lucky to see it and hear it http://www.watoday.com.au/zoom/archive/rnews950713_0155_7797

Twitch, a BUMP how is this EA71 pistoned EA81 holding up? I have just read of Ivans impression of EA71 flat tops after I have ordered a set - due to their price and availability

twin 32/36 Webers would be overkill, or maybe they would only both work in the primary circuit As for twin Hitachis on a std engine, just the sound of twins is awesome - made mine sound like a ...an old VW Kombi two litre Opened up the low down torque, mid range and upper rev range of power available, whatever power an EA81 can unleash. My fuel economy remained good - mid 8 litres per 100 km. This was on my rebuild kitted and engine only 20,000km old 16/56 cam I had to keep an eye on things on the highway as speeds would creep up, 110kph zone where most would do 120, some 130 almost, this thing was creeping up to 140 all on its own and more go underfoot all up long inclines. I would be tempted to try the twins on a carb EA82 given EA82 has the valve configuration of EA81S I reckon it is time someone tried to copy a Safari style set up, ambidextrous inlet adaptor to take a weber each side directly over the intake, channel coolant from side to side, long linkage for precise twin control.

OK, pretty sure my first exposure to EA82 ownership was the turbo EA82. It had a harmonic balancer off the crank, rubber cushioning between the crank and the pulley Vees. Non turbo EA82 seem to be just a solid steel pulley with no balance marks, no rubber cushioning, so it ain't exactly a harmonic balancer. Anyone know if these harmonic balancers were turbo only ? Did the EA81T also have one as well. Any differences felt in going from one type to the other ? Yeah ? Nice to see the forum back in order , unharmed

These front windscreen rubbers weigh about 2 kg or smidge more and are quite easily obtained here in Australia from a company that does not really do export. I have sent a few to a dude in the UK a few times, and his first shipping container just landed in UK, ful of them ...no, kidding, he got fifteen though try enter www.ebay.com.au in your address bar, use Brumby windscreen seal see what happens

surely this is a mistake ? Was cruising ebay and came across a few of these listed, and they reckoned they had sold a few . Looks like a $ 1000 more than what they really sell for ?

From my Gregories manual - EA82 gudgeon pins are 20.994mm to 21.0 mm EA81 ? 1979 - 1980 20.992 - 21.00 mm , EA81 from 1981 on 20.922 - 20.00mm - misprint of their bloody own there ! small end bush bore diameter 21.000 - 21.016 EA81 1981 onwards FSM also says EA82 are ~ 21 mm, so the parts book was a misprint ! What I want to hear. What seems to be the case with aftermarket pistons to suit EJ20 NA are not cheap. Same with local supplier, says to go performance market.

well this is going nowhere ..... OK, to sum up what I have read here and in parts books the EJ20 and EA71, EA81 and EA82 all share 92.0 m bores as standard someone above has said EJ20 gudgeon pins are 23.00 mm , they have also said EA are 21.00 mm , so you'd think not much more to machine out of the EA gudgeon to take an EJ20 pin. I dont doubt EA71 81 and 82 are all the same gudgeon pin due to the one piston available to do all three engines BUT the supplier parts manual reckons the gudgeon pin is 16mm - could be a misprint in their manuals. Cant find it in specs of EA71 in factory manuals, must move on to EA82 manuals to see anyone else feel free to discuss

short of foto, a simple description of where the groove is, shape and some measurement so no one goes off on any further tangents

just take care as you dismantle. Fresh gaskets sort of allow for a few pull apars to get it right bit of vaseline on the pump plunger if it is leather helps too

well don't PANIC unless you need the car to get to work every day next week Was it running better before you removed carb to rebuild AND did nothing else regards timing adjust, lead swap ? You do have 13 2 4 firing order which is different from normal 1 4 3 2 four cylinders ? You have internal floding problems of carb to sort first. needle and seat sticking can also cause float chamber to flood and overflow. See the sight glass on the side ? Should be a dot suggests correct operating fluid level

something tells me you did more than a carb swap or rebuild ?? Most kits will have left over bits and things due to one kit made to include many applications so fewer kit and part numbers for stockists if the float level is incorrect due to something missing, broken or a float that sinks, fuel will spill over and dribble down onto closed butterflies and out along the throttle shaft/spindle. Can't say my first rebuild went right either. Only showed up a few miles pointing wrong direction, and required a walk home and a lift back with spare float and screwdriver - simple Stromberg single throat 60's stuff. Before mobile phones too ! Before cordless phones too !!

junk yard / breaker yard near you might have same or similar model Subaru and not a bad idea to go buy one even if it is just for help in reassembly or if you can post up a photo of what you need in maybe a want ad carby parts and see how that helps

I have learnt that with these old subes, the gauges non digital will tell you what the sender tells them had one sender that never went above quarter , so I thought everyone else complaining about overheating EA82s had other problems you say turn the heat on and see a spike, but AC is cooling and compressor and condensor in front of radiator would increase engine load but would not cause an immediate spike in temp. An electrical thing in the engine block to body earthing , naaaa, more like an earthing change in your dash. Is there a spike in any other read outs at the time.. did you turn up the heat on a dial or slide adjuster? Or did you turn the internal blower fan on ? 60's Fords do rule for simplicity - never needed anything smaller than 1?2" drive sockets until I ventured to Japanese cars With one exception to remove a C pillar trim nut accessed from within the boot (trunk)

I still had to deal with a cranky looking polar bear on a blue background accomodation deal pop up behind the main window but, finally , after about the fifth attempt .... note it is RHD, is right hand side, see the speedo and clutch? cables to get an idea of where this bracket is maybe there is none or fewer brake lines in this area on LHD ? The turbo location does not change, but do the heater hoses enter the firewall on LHD passenger side ?

thanks carfreak, that will help. I may see if I can sneak up on the photo share website while it is tired, see if it works for me