jono

get used to it, happened nearly thirty years ago !! And, to think of 1992 here in Australia, we had the choice of an EA81 4 speed 4WD ute - Brumby - BRAT to you or: EA82 5speed 4WD wagons - the L Series or: EJ powered Liberties - Legacy to US, and Impreza and maybe even the four pot inline Fiori and the Sherpa - 2 cylinder ?

A problem with RHD and turbo is the turbo and its cat put out some heat and we have our brake master and associated steel lines rather close. I am about to embark on EA81 out, EA82T in lots of things to consider as the EA82 5 sp DR 4WD box and one piece custom tailshaft has to go in, an EA82 clutch pedal and cable modded all in a rather confined space - albeit on dry smooth concrete part of my ten year preparation is considering a heat shield for the brake master and the lines on the firewall and keep some heat away from the drivers feet. I dunno about LHD but our RHD EA81 bodies have a number of brake lines on the firewall with a factory bracket behind that looks like it is screaming out to be a heat shield mounting point. I am guessing the bracket is for a heat shield on LHD EA81T to protect some brake lines on the passenger side firewall. A pic would save some words ....must go and try .... botopucket is just not playing easy so will let you people use your imagination . I tend to find some stupid bear trying to sell me unwanted stuff in a hidden window sneaking my upload space with its unwanted download dollop

that's it for this exercise. I now know what it feels like at the exact moment a head gasket goes :( 1400 km since I did the home face job and fitted new head gaskets, retensioned after a warm up. Admittedly there was a half small peanut sized hole of corrosion in one head in the middle of nowhere - that point where gasket blocks off a nothing in head to water jacket ? Engine had sat as an unknown to me for ten years mostly. I was stomping on it as a car was coming up behind me - I had turned into its path with enough room and it just well, hesitated, then had a bit of a miss, started blowing smoke - think it was steam. Managed to limp it to safety. Tossing up whether this is the time to do the rushed EA82T 5 speed conversion or slap in a spare 510,000km EA81 ... bugger

an update: I have done about 200km so far and judging from the gesticulations from a woman who was sitting behind me at the first stop - nothing has happened. She was waving the smoke away as if she had no windscreen and backed off As I went about things on the highway things seemed to be OK on cruise speeds. I think it is too early to expect anything really if the rings are carboned up. I took to the mountain dirt roads to be on my own and the dust obscures the smoke , then darkness fell and it seemed to be the best way to hide smoke from other road users , or at least hide the source I guess I developed this theory that maybe some oil has to be induced to get in and around the rings to clean things up, so some more down mountain driving, backing off, then giving it a squirt, back off, squirt, back off ..each squirt to clear the air - so to speak. Time to check oil level Castrol RX diesel 15W40 is the oil in use. Only ever used 20W50 in these EA81's before. 15W40 normally reserved for EA82. Running at around 100 kph , 3000 rpm the oil pressure runs at about 50 psi, mid 20's air temp, mid 60s op temp

well BUMP me ! Just done an oil change after speaking to our local trusted engine additive manufacturer tech guys. I say trust as I have worked for a fella who worked for the company for 30 years. I trust him, trust them. Chucked in the oil cleaning stuff that smelled like degreaser or kero, idled the engine for 20 minutes and then dropped this thin, black, black and bloody hot engine oil and filter. Oil has been replenished with a Diesel spec oil as also suggested/agreed upon by the tech guys. Will see how we go My oil had only been in 1000 kms or so, but likely taking out with it crud from an 8 year stand stint on an unknown used engine

to your ears and reputation with the neighbours

only ever only seen one piece rear windows in our Brumbys. So what did you guys get ? Pics would help

if they are anything like EA82 lifters, new, old and reco - they can need some drivng to operating temperature and then some to go quiet. An engine fitter I know would not want customers to know just how much or how hard he has to drive them to get some rebuilds hydros bled up ! I just make sure a compression test is good first, then just low speed cruising around the suburbs until it goes quiet. Never failed on EA82s - just nerve wracking until it does

there is some cross-over when you have a post 84 MY, EA81 ute or two door liftback hatch and the EA82 powered L Series with the oHC engine (the EA81 is pushrod) The other cross - over is what you seem to have found - you have an EA82 L Series , only badged as a Leone in FWD sedan form in Aus and the first EJ powered things (Liberties /Legacies) came out in 89 ? It will always help [yet not always practical] to have the part you want to replace as a sample. Just get to know the part numbers you need will simplify things even better oil filters Z493 your spark plugs likely a resistor type with part number suggesting it uses resistor built in forget the dizzy cap options everyone knows your pain

ah yes , good thinking, I think I can now see how oil gets sucked intot he combustion chamber by stuck oil rings. An oil flush additive, a Diesel detergenty oil to add to the drive like it was stolen style may clear it up

OK trivia buffs - which EA had a 3.45:1 diff ratio ? raer 1:7.3 , ffid tnorf 1:54.3 dah DW4 ps 3 ATLG 28AE yM

once had a GM horn come loose on its main rivet between the horn body and horn bracket, swung down to earth the contact on an earthed bracket - iola - constant horn. Maybe have a squiz at the horn switch contacts behind the horn pad ?

this old thing came in my Brumby, fitted by previous owner as a {well} used engine with good oil pressure {50 psi @3000rpm} and 180,190 comp pressures. Previous owner did not get a chance to test it out before it then sat eight years. I have done new head gaskets, checked valve seal to seat, and replaced the valve stem seals to the inlets? as the exhaust don't get seals. If it was valve guides, I would expect the thing to be smokey on cold start up and disappear once at operating temp Now, engine is a bit tail pipe fumey, so the oil rings may be stuffed or gummed up due to crap service interval or age/ treatment over its previous life.. Give the twins a gut full from my 175 HP rated gas mixer and will fume the tail pipe again - still missing about a hundred horsies though Worst is the compression braking - not 007 escape trick smoke screen but enough to flare the nostrils of the motorists copping the slip stream. I am wondering if I should try just add valve stem seals to the exhaust valves if the head design allows or will this stuff something? Any ideas ? I am planning to use an oil cleaner before next oil change and use a higher detergent diesel grade oil - se if anything changes

can't say I was impressed to get a brake master cylinder in a box that had biro * marks and written on it "wrong product" or the like and they still sent it half way across the globe. Lucky I picked the problem, went through their electronic complaint process and got my product price and some postage refunded. Recently discovered some exhaust gaskets I bought from them are totally wrong - too late but, I tell you what, compared to anything on ffer to us in Oz it is like a kid in candy store that ecatalogue !

aha !! Same case for AUDM Brumby/BRAT/MV then. Is always just easiest to get stuff for any model after 84 is just say it is an 84 model - otherwise 90% guarantee any aftermarket supplier will kit you out for an EA82 series ....

just being 4 speed gives it away as being EA81 engine the clutch throw out bearing in car was likely a cast iron lump machined up to shape in most markets after late 84 for 85 model year everything was EA82 5 speed. Clutches for these were all the same for 4WD and turbo FWD. Plain FWD were different. The EA81 4 speed had two 4WD clutch choices known as 200mm or 225mm people count splines on gearbox input shaft as well. Is clutch fork blue or black painted ? EA82 flywheels use a 21mm step, where EA81 4WD flywheels used a 23mm step what ever makes you think you have an 87 model?

sounds resolved, but I will pipe up just to say got EA82 front struts in my EA81 complete with EA82 coils and the ride is beefed up just a small pleasant amount, not too hard, got an extra 15mm ride height and so far has been great on tar, dirt and rocky roads

!! Interesting to see that a USDM EA71 piston sounds to be same as AUDM EA81 piston !! Wagonist - you forgot to add space to the time and money wish list I would like to hear from anyone aside from Ivan who has EJ'd their EA81 or EA82 by shoving in the famed EJ pistons and getting a whole lot more go outta it. Discusion was something like EJ 20 NA slugs and machine the EA con rod little end to take the EJ gudgeon pin. Might make EA82 a valve breaker if the belt slips/breaks though ?

Twitch - you say you used EA71 pistons - new or previously used? Non factory pistons available have ben what I call compromise as they are marked to suit all three EA NA carb applications 71.81 and 82 I have been tempted to bodgey up an EA81 block with used EA82T pistons, turbo it and see what results having recently gone back into my Brumby for a short time fitted with EA82 carb block, mpfi heads and inlet manifold just so impressed at its longer, wider torque band compared to my cammed and std cam EA81's. Throw the spider inlet on and it became just a little more of a torque monster. I am almost thinking I need not do my long intended EA82T conversion ! I have enough bits about to try an mpfi short block, mpfi heads and std inlet manifold to see if it goes any different - just need to clean up some heads and order a timing belt kit. There is a theory mpfi pistons give better comp than carb in the EA82s Maybe if I had a drive of an EJ in an EA81 body I may be swayed though

i wish some of those who have had failed high comp turbo boxers would speak up ! I suspect that it may be possible the failures have been a case of a turbo slapped on an old NA and then run to see what happens, and likely pushed hard, maybe not had correct engine management and blown an old bearing or something as a result. My thoughts could be swayed if someone came in and said they had a proper rebuild of a high comp turbo boxer, driven conservatively and still blown a big end or something .....

I know that compression pressures do not really indicates what a compression ratio would be , but be curious to know what compressions you get from either cold or op temp test. I am guessing the EA81T dizzy has the vac cannister on it ? If it is same as EA82T S1 dizzy it is boost retard as well as timing retard from knock sensor and KCM. The cans diaphragm blow out and either need a rebuild or replacement. I bought new some years back for EA82T and drove better than one with a hole in it I have an urge to merge an old EA81 with a turbo without any decompressing. I have an old engine with 300,000 miles on it with compression pressures of about 170 180 psi and another with a cam spec'd for turbo, 60,000 miles on since full rebuild with what I call compromise pistons that suit EA71,81 and 82 that give only 160 psi comp test. I have an EA82T that gives out 150 psi comp test even though turbos were supposed to only have 120 or 130 factory ! Word is from one experienced with turbing boxers on NA is that they dont last - but maybe if driven nicely it will ....

it might help others if you shared those part numbers for future reads ? Good luck. I use a bit of grease to hold the mickey mouse o ring seal in plae after finding someone still managed to tighten up when seal had slipped out of its groove- and still pumped oil !

"just" use the two wires that go to the factory fan to switch a normal horn relay - I did ! I think the basic colour of one wire is blue, the other yello, not sure on the trace skinny colours. What you do is attach one wire to 85 terminal on relay, the other to 86. So long as is basic relay and not a diode protected relay it wont matter which wire goes to which terminal so long as you use 85 and 86. It will just power up the coil inside relay to switch on your fan or fans. Then, the fans ned to be worked out which way they need to be wired to get air flow correct. Earth the earth wire you decide on to a good earth and the power comes from 87 on relay and add power from battery to relay thirty with say a 20amp fuse

I'm gonna bet the green loctite is something not available in Australia so not gonna search too hard for it. Anyway, the Recoil (an Oz /brand? address and says product of Australia with Sth Korean tap) has been done. This time I ran the tap back out and blew it clean each of the three times - used CRC556 to blow the chips into the garden , so, okay, may go back to the turn tap back enough to cut the crud, and sally forth on the next job. Stud is in, new gasket and silicon in place. If only the exhaust place that hit the previous owner up for nearly $500 ten years ago for a new catted Y pipe could have repaired the threads on the other side. They cut and welded the new Y pipe to take advantage of the diagonal stud holes instead This engine is only thought to be in for a short time until an EA82 goes in, either one I have built and sits in another Brumby or I have an mpfi short motor screaming out for heads and new timing belt kit and HVLA. Or maybe even the EA82T as originally intended

OK, playing with exhaust repair and replacing the head to Y pipe gasket got me thinking ... My carb EA81 head has a ~40mm exhaust port and I am using a gasket with a 50mm hole and ~76mm centres for the stud holes. The EA82T mpfi head in the bathroom just measured up as ~50mm - now there is a performance enhancement already ! Just curious if anyone has an EA81T & EA81S head to measure up and possibly EA82 carb and EA82 spfi to contribute some measures for curiosity?? I am starting to lean towards twin port EA82 mpfi heads and EA82 for performace mods over the EA81's !!