jono

what are the part numbers of the three ECU's ? I may have a spare one, may want your mates spare for myself PM me ?

is the VSS connected up to the speedo head at the back ? Some EA82 according to legend had a VSS output. Every EA82 speedo head I pulled out had one. I never tested it for output surge, stall and high idle - without your foot intervening on the loud pedal ? a high idle speed is going to be by maybe an air leak in a duct between afm and throttle body, which can muck up randomly OR the higher idle speed is air leaking via one of the throttle body bypass worm holes controlled by an ECU controlled solenoid. You could try pull the TB and study it closely for any possible air bleed circuits bypass the throttle plate, tap into any solenoid control wires to see what they do and when ... I like how the problem transitioned from the donor to recipient and you told us

thinking of where I can put the space saver spare now front passenger flor would be better than my home entry foy-air something that came to mind when you mention quad port - Triumph 2500PI of late 60's and early seventies did use three units that bolted to the head. Each was of cast alloy and had a throttle plate per cylinder and injector hole I am certain ?? They'd be a nice air flow match to a four pot 1800cc

well, yeah, totally agree with your comments, I may not have explained best that I had read some authority on engine building about how the intake volume should be [at least? ] or close to engine capacity but this sort of starts to get a bit out of hand thinking of big engines such as ya 351 ci huh It may be for efi too ... just thinking of snorting twin or triples on straight fours and sixes sitting snug against the head sort of ignores that theory i read and as with efi, nothing is gonna fall out of suspension until the injectors. My fuel of choice not really fall out either. This thing stomps, third and fourth of five gears are strong. 0 to 80 no faster. 60 to 100 kph [36 to 62.5 mph] 7 or eight seconds in third. Third gear is fun, hmm, so too fourth. And towing a 250kg trailer - hardly felt it was there I am now curious of the figures quoted for the NA spider manifolded EA82 engines - just in LHD XT? Anyone got them to compare over the other EA82 engines ? This could be an interesting manifold to try a side draught carby slapped on the back - could be a dog ! I find the LPG gear is very adaptable to all sorts of manifold applications so makes it easier to tinker - screaming out for a turbo now !!

nothing weird, nothing all of a sudden. the fuel pump has been wearing out the past 25 years and now finally the ea82 has called it quits - not gonna continue at an appalling 2 psi. ask your mechanic to bet his boys on it ! you may need to replace a few other service items while there. Have him do a compression test first, maybe new plugs leads and cap n rotor, fuel filter oil filter change ....

well, what an exercise that was! I got it all together right up to the step where I had to make a throttle cable outer bracket. Oh, by now I had found need to rotate the square bolt pattern throttle body so the throttle stuff was at the top [ with plenty of bonnet clearance in the EA81 Brumby body, on EA82 twin port heads. Went looking for bracket making stff and found the correct spider throttle body YAHOO ! noting it already had its own bracketry, and now that the whole thing in pace, tried the spider throttle body perfect ! Just cleared a few things, accy cable worked really well and saved me having to make a bracket or have to trust my dodgy modded old throttle body from log style manifold There is about 3500 cc or air volume between the throttle plate and valves and got LPG propane vapours ready to burn in there. Be nice to have done a dyno run before and after, but nope. Feels like torque comes in a bit earlier and hangs about a little longer - very minimal improvement powerwise if at all. At a favourite spot to increase cruising speed from 80 to 110 kph feels almost as good as my old EA82T sedan ! Very nice idle - just as well, for anyone that knows the spider idle air adjust screw - it is now underneath, cramped up near a bracket for the engine stay !

an engineering shop near you should be able to resolve your problem by finding suitable uni joint and maybe modifying the tail shaft to accept retainer clips.It is or should be a simple power transfer thing for them to deal with That has been done. Or make you a new tail shaft and as a single shaft not the centre bearing two piece type, that has been done - got two of 'em I have replaced the staked uni on steering and just spot/tack welded in place [15 years ago] but this did not require a balanced finished product drove it just yesterday still good.

hold pressure of some sort against the other side of the tie rod jambs the taper together harder and usually enough to tighten up nut

maybe engine would crank when it stopped on the roadside, and now in the shop having cooled down (either from operating temp or higher?} wont turn now. If it was a siezed distributor you fear it must be the other side timing belt that came loose ? Only once have heard of an EA82 with valves hitting pistons with belt coming off - modified beyond factory that must have been ! Can you confirm that your oil pressure light was working before, did not come on at least until engine stopped, and that engine was quiet right up to stop ? You are not deaf , and feel you have normal range of hearing ? Replacing the engine may be cheaper than spending many mechanic hour$ chasing a diagnosis to then find needs replacing. Did you check your fluids see anything odd ? Teeeth missing off the belt that was off or loose ? which belt was loose? that cam turn ?

didn't take much or long to satisfy this curiosity things in mind were apparent engine efficiency design be that the air volume from intake valves to throttle plate be same as the engine capacity another concept in mind is that for propane/lpg fuel of the older vapour fogging systems is the smaller the volume of the inlet the better so the system can change the lean rich demands of the engine sooner. another, having gone for a greater EA82 spfi volume I have sort of got some bogging down operation over my modified EA81 carb inlet manifold with both cases the gas carb sitting atop the manifold. Also have done a remote gas carb with it then feeding quite an air volume [ 2 feet of 56mm pipe]before the throttle plates and then std intake volume. Also know of a propane turbo set up where the gas carb was six feet away before the turbo on a straight six 4.0 So, some of these set ups have defied the match the air volume to engine capacity - and I guess one is for petrol/gasoline theory. I am about to try the spider intake over the non spider. I taped up all the holes and started filling up by 500ml beaker and got to about 2900ml before I sprung a leak just as I got to full. Then the water log air section add 100ml per head, then we have the air volume of the heads above the valves and a little behind the plate of the throttle body. I'd estimate 150 to 200ml of each mpfi head sooooo might be about 3500 ml or cc of total inlet volume ! That's twice the 1800cc ! Be a case of suck it and see - all without a dyno all I have is feel of seat of pants, a few times from 0 to 62.5 mph of a yet to be checked speedo 17 seconds, or 0 to 50 mph 12 seconds

Nice share Also been told Nissan Patrol from late 80's will also fit, just need to retain the Patrol wire plug to connect to Subie wiring. Pull your old alternator down to see if it is just brushes. Found worn brushes A$4 for a pair, $11 for new bearings 6203 front, 6201 rear yet to refit and test but pretty easy

you are looking for Daniel in Sacramento 4x4brat or brat4x4 member here - he made or had mine made for a very reasonable cost

i'd be running it without the air filter stuff on a damp day to avoid dust intake and see if still bogs at 7/8 pedal. I run mine at 22deg but is on 109 octane fuel. Also use 2" or less piping to remote air filters and never had a problem

one more step from here is to get that spring flat with indent in correct place in realation to that roll pin you can just see ! Tom, I'd like to think we now have identified the correct tools in the G clamp and wedges I am gong to file or grind a flat side in the G clamps foot so it stays in place better. The pres action goes on top of that screw high side or maybe even just on the spring washers - manual says step on the washers. I may be pulling this apart again as I am not happy with the O ring _ I see the seem of the mould of the O ring on the outside, and if I am not mistaken may be turned inside out as to how it was made and intended. Need to check other o ring still in packet to see if they have seem inside and outside. Both the inside and outside have the seem so leaving it be - it is not distorted. Wiki has a great read on o rings or toric joints as they are referred to as Also asking at Subaru if they can still get in 925600000 the o ring fitting cone tool - result is Subaru don't sell the tools as a rule. Some other multinational company has this and does them for most of the car manufacturers. I found some 7mm ID clear poly pvc hose to slip over threads on caliper #2 Glad I decided to go this whole hog thing - is easier wipe the body clean as i work on it due to the shiny black caliper paint and inside the handbrake section of the next caliper - found what looked like dirty brake fluid puddling up in the grease ! This ones piston seal also had surface rust mark around the inner side [fluid side] of the bore, and some crud in the chamber which a bit of 0000 grade steel wool cleaned up. Same stuff for the small bore where the silicone grease coated 11.00mm OD O ring goes.

not breathing in ... there are two part numbers for the spider manifold and difference looks to be the NA or turbo ! the water log base sections are different only as far as I can see for the turbo coolant pipe off the thermostat lower casting. Cannot see how they would alter castings between the two modes myself

hoo boy, note to self ...listen to others .... just come in for a break not a good idea to be doing this crouching on the floor of the shed for starters, carpet is only so soft got the new o ring on, maybe inside out as I can see the seam on its outside and not compared with the untouched other o ring, suspect seam is only on inside so it got twisted and turned inside out as it went in - teflon tape wrapped screw thread. Tell you what - the new o ring has a lot more resistance to stretch in it than the old one ! struggling with the return spring - got the G clamp trick done to line the levers spindle in and through things and trying to comply to "force the return spring back in place" and just had a thought - sort of need something like the little plastic wedges used in house construction adjustments or ceramic tile wedges. This spring does not just flip back in reverse order it came out which was 2 steps if anyone is reading .... first step to remove was flick up the end against caliper base which has a roll pin to lift up and over it, spring comes partially loose, then pick out the two actual ends of the spring tuck into the cut out of the levers spindle [ at first thought they sat in a round hole] they just fit in a ledge that the wedge "connecting link" also sits in.. Might help me to make a bracket to hold this caliper in a bench vice. Glad I am not in a hurry and got a car in pieces !! Already tried zip ties/cable ties to try keep the return spring in its compressed state while under the G clamp, but bulk of cable ties got in the way. May try them with bulk inside away from housing edges... when my circulation comes back to legs and can feel things again ! I think it would work better if I could pull the roll pin out, slide spring in place and whack roll pin back in, is so small a pin ! OK, note to self - well done boy ! stand up so not to squash organs, shove it in the vice while there is no slider/guide pin/ boots rubbers, get a pair of tiling wedges [preferably noy ones with glue stuck to 'em] shove either side of the roll pin to get under spring base above the roll pin straight blade screwdriver to do what manual suggests "force" the spring ends into the channel of the shaft take photo to share secrets with the world left in vice to take pretty picture, so yet to pull wedges out and complete task

Just as well I am not in a hurry. And same goes for having a practice run. I find the practice EA82 caliper - I somehow lost the connecting link wedge shaped thing that sits neatly between the screw assembly and handbrake lever shaft - so when I found one in my EA81 caliper was news to me !! Pulled another EA82 caliper apart and found its wedge in place. The screw assemblies that get the O ring - the EA82 is about 10mm longer thread than on the EA81 The cone spring washers look to be same The handbrake lever and shaft assembly looks to be interchangeable though EA82 is made of pressed metal, EA81 is cast - visible just where cable ends fit in..... they look to be same length, same diameter where they go through the roller bearings So, some notes for myself to be able to find later would read a bit like the manuals assembly instructions with exception that for some reason I think I will be fitting the piston last as this is how I started the dissembly, piston blown out first. Dissmble needs a pair of flat blade screwdrivers, first to pick up return spring just near small black stopper pin, flick spring up and away from that pin, spring then goes floppy. so, I wanna have the screw with its siliconed up o ring and the greased (check this one ?) cone springs. The higher side of the top of screw sits same side as the black metal pin that secures the big spring retainer. about a 60mm washer or circular plate at piston side to give a square base to run the 4" clamp against to keep things square while holding spring washer tension on. I can now see how special tool hooks or braces itself under the ridge of the handbrake side of things, so you could make a simple press tool out of say 2mm thick bar 16mm wide and simple bolt and threaded hole methinks. Just need to look at it and think - not a lot of pressure seems to be needed to hold the springs down. All the boots need to be on the handbrake spindle peeled back almost inside out prior to fitting up. Also needs to be all greased up. Use 4" G clamp to hold screw down against springs I need to

yes, if you think about it ...when rear wheels turn the splines cause the rear double offset joint axles to turn, causing diff to turn and by now still not have anything to stop this rotation, so this in turn causes the tailshaft to turn and then somewhere in the gearbox this is free wheeling until 4WD is selected. Often the uni joint grease nipples are forgotten about, uni joints get dry and then rust and decay. Often hear a 4WD EA81 in FWD no load on rear drive components and a ting ting ting metallic noise , present even when engine off and rolling . I use a quiet street with buildings either side to echo the ting ting noise back at me, engine off. Just a grease at the nipples has revived a noisy uni joint several times in the past

somewhere in here was a link to a craigslist? ad for the awesomely modified blue 79? BRAT ute running an EA82T with spider inlet. The blurb claied it had a non turbo inlet manifold and it flowed better than the turbo one. Find this hard to believe if it is the NA spider V's turbo spider! It may be a case of NA spider being used due to it flowing better than the non spider turbo inlet manifold ?

you can ask for and get the best advice and get nowhere if you have no test tools or methods. First method without tools would be a push start if a manual stick shift. Then if it still did not start you are stuck further up that creek or down the street To me, sounds very typical, seen it many times, your alternator stopped charging, so you buy a new battery and same troubles begin a few days later, or sooner if you drive with lights on! This happened to me in last month, just fitted a spare battery which went flat too quick - had just one start in it and stranded me. The alternator brushes were at their most worn, sending one copper slip ring black. I have bought 2new brushes A$8 from a auto elec shop and new bearings 6201 and now need a press to get the front one out before I can finish and test my work. A borrowed or even stolen multimeter can be useful to measure what volts in battery and any different once running which should be about 14.2 measured at battery or even back of alternator.

OK, a follow up on this stuff. I ordered some reco's from Rock and of course having trouble getting good pedal first up. I think I saw rebuild dates on the calipers suggesting they have sat about with a brake lube on the internals ...for about 20 years ! I also just pulled a part a master cylinder that was reco'ed about same era. A dry crusty stuff inside - but no rust Chucked it as they sent me a box clearly marked * wrong product* - put in the claim electronically and Rock were good in that they refunded the buy price plus a calculated portion of the freight and let me keep a master cylinder for a 35 year old LHD Mazda 1800 ute I managed to score a full rebuild kit for the EA81 front calipers and also got the genuine O rings from non other than Subaru of Japan. Twenty bucks got me two o rings about 10mm OD and a few sachets of that watermelon [yep, definitely watermelon] coloured grease for inside the handbrake boots and smother the o ring. The conical springs [that someone described as wavy ?] go on the bolt/screw in pairs forming a hollow between each in the pairs [picture a brass band member with clashing cymbles] The listing details in parts book escaped me, did not see one part number was enough to do one car, so got enough to do another set of calipers. The kit part number is 625025061 and from the label style, my parts manager said it was old stock I pulled outta Japan The whole thing once the spring release task has been dealt with is, well , looks pretty straight forward. There are six flat yet conical spring metal? washers per caliper. They go on the bolt through from handbrake to piston, has the spiral the piston winds up and down on, and where the bolt passes through the body of the caliper is where the o ring sits. I find it hard to believe that the o ring seals out air n stuff, seals in hydraulic fluid pressure through all heat ranges the things work in , harder to believe than the rubber piston seals sealing everything in ! Good golly Miss Molly ! There are four sachets of watermelon grease total weight 66 grams ,and one small one of clear silicone? grease ...and paper details inside state the orange grease is in fact Niglube RX-2 grease 15g x4 and yes silicone grease one of 2g sachet and indicates the white or opaque silicone grease is for the o ring surrounds and orange for under what they call the lever cap [the rubber boot]. The English side of instructions get the one diagram, Japanese side gets two diagrams I am going to go against instructions to only wash these calipers out in brake fluid - YUCK ! ICK! Once all bare, uh oh, hang on a tick, at least the EA82 calipers have roller bearing cages for the hand brake pivot pin - maybe I just need to clean out clinically and ensure they get a wash with metho next, then approach rebuild in my usual anal way Yep, boil the jug , we are gonna scrub a practice caliper in soap suds ! OK, while I sit here waiting for the caliper paint to cure - seven days !?! , I nearly chickened out of the full overhaul as it all looked OK under the handbrake boot, and guys in here have said they just do a piston seal thing and go from there. What you don't know is these calipers have done something like a million kilometres if they are the originals and I have my cars right ..... nope, these have only done 455,000kms ...wrong Brumby ! Now I work this out ! I have the bits and was still an awful sort of job trying to clean it up so no crud falls into the works while assembling it , so .... as planned, all wire wheel scrubbed up and painted black caliper paint gloss. There is a little piece I found in the EA81 caliper called a 'connecting link' [pillow, wedge shaped] that sits between the screw bolt and the lever shaft of the handbrake bits. Did not find this in the EA82 caliper - must have a better look. It sort of appeared so did not know exactly where it came from in among the grease but a dry assembly run should give me a good idea, so too the diagrams from the early 81 manuals. Conquering a long held fear this is these front handbrake calipers

some things that go wrong in EA81 models in RHD anyway is the pedal box itself collapses in so the pedal effort is absorbed by flexing pedal box, and others have had things let go at the firewall where engine stopper bracket mounts up letting engine flop about back or forward? when you press clutch pedal in .... OK, so I skipped the pedal box posts on my first read I have reinforced on the inside of the box where not get in anythings way, also done plates and rivets and 1.6mm plate on the weak side

I've been trying to get my head around the theory and workings of vacuum and ported vacuums of throttle bodies. As far as the EA82T Series One I am sure the throttle body had three vacuum ports on the throttle body. Series Two is the one I have been fiddling [butchered more like it ]with - has just two. The middle one (as you can see where the third would be in the casting) rips straight into the throttle body airway just above the closed throttle plate/butterfly/valve The other port pokes out directly where the throttle plate closes against the outer - "tunnel" in such precision that when closed just a quarter or third of the hole is exposed to whhatever pressure or vacuum is above the plate, so same as the other one, just that as the throttle plate opens up so too does the hole - throttle plate out of the way exposes whatever is driven by this port to full air flow. Silly me starting altering a throttle body for my needs without thinking I need the correct port for the vacuum advance of the dizzy - no pick out a three vac port version. Yet to find the three port version to see where the third port gets exposed to. Also suspect the missing port is for vac advance - [for good reasons]. I'd like to get it right so best to be able judge my performance mod - spider manifold on mpfi turbo heads on a carb block. Need to study the three port series one diagrams thought I'd share this link for anyone curious - coz you don't just hook up a dizzy vacuum to the inlet manifold ports ! Well, actually, if you read this link, reckons vacuum is same except for no want vacuum at idle due to emissions etc. Though I have previously hooked up vac cans to manifold vacuum and got pinging on lightest of throttle from memory. From this persons writings could use man vacuum for dizzy and also tinker with TPS to switch off vacuum to dizzy at closed throttle ?? http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/timing%20&%20vacuum%20advance/vacuum_explained.pdf closer inspection of this two port throttle body shows each of the two ports has two holes into the air flow. Clever guys at Hitachi managed to drill two holes on the inside with just one bung plug of brass on the outside ! The centre port has similar equal sized drillings inside - one above and one below the throttle plate. The other non middle port has a much smaler hole about 3mm above throttle plate and the bigger one right on the plate close position. A curious dude may T piece a vacuum gauge into these ports one day. One gauge per port, line 'em all up and see what difference looks to be

well guys, believe it or not I don't have a welder - I have two ! One is an old stick welder that performs great on practice then like bird poo when needed . The other is a gasless 100A wire feed that also can do poo like. 100A is not really big enough for many things or more likely I am not qualified to comment. Have had almost no problems with EA82 mpfi NA Y pipe in Brumby just about 10mm longer. If/when the EA82T goes in, there won't be a Y pipe - the EA82T is tidy with its exhaust all bundled up to turbo and just a line up at dump pipe and she is hooked up. I was more curious to find if anyone had done what I intend but understand coz it is a custom makes it different to anyone else's exhaust, so even if someone confirmed it can all bolt up, mine may not. Suck it and see coming up

someone was asking for them spider manifold to throttle body gasket is blue 16175AA701 non spider to throttle body is cream colour.......16175AA080