jono

a better ute ?? EA82T, AWD single range 5 speed manual in a Brumby and bring over the awesome exhaust note that came with it in a EA82T 4WD sedan I had for 110,000km , 8 years stucturally there is not too much difference underneath EA81s to EA82's so hoping ..... have done EA82 5 MT DR and two piece tailshaft directly into EA81 Brumby before and have added EA82M and 21mm step flywheel/clucth assy and EA82 clutch pedal also.

So many driveline components are interswappable between EA82 and EA81 body models I have kept my sedan turbo 2.5" stuff intending to fit almost without any mod to my EA81 Brumby when the EA82T goes in. Fingers are to be crossed. To save money, hassle of driving a partially muffled EA82T to a zau$t shop .... I know EA82 Y pipes frpm NA fit and are maybe 10mm longer than EA81, just pushes rear stuff bit further back Anyone done what I am intending ? Note my stuff is custom not factory so there could be some other differences...

be a few times now have found problem is in the switch, not the light or dash. Switch needs to be tested, cleaned and fiddled, maybe even adjusted with a washer . Had both cleanliness and adjust issues at switch. Maybe you can access the switch easier if you drop the rear gearbox cross member ? Mine have all been done off vehicle

hi, just following this now .... 85 and 86 models as far as EA82T are different from the later models. Does yours use a flapper style air flow meter that bolts direct to air filter housing or the smaller, petite hot wire cylindrical AFM ? vac control module cannister on side of disty or not ? These babies also have an ECU with flashing LED visible have you followed this line of enquiry yet ?

found my gaskets, both spider and non spidey TB to inlet manifold so part numbers to follow if needed. Have also found the hole of the non spidey TB does not line up precisely with that in the spider manifold cue die grinder !!

wel, some quick tinkering and have got the idle control circuit hole tapped to ...well drilled to 8.5mm first, then tapped to M10 1.25 pitch successfully. Next, drilled a 4mm hole through its side , tapped that to M5 0.8mm pitch to can plug up the hole on the outside, plug up the underside with about 4mm of home made grub screw and some three bond or three tape. Now, for that TB to manifold gasket .....

I am at that borderline stage of not knowing if I just in last few months tossed said corners, or about to - will have a look but got that bad feeling for you Jesz,

800 sized pic for better detail Here is the Brumby to replace my first one in some way. For what it was going to cost me for another tailgate and tarp I managed to prise this from the grips of the former owner - in a shocking state of pollution hook-up the dealer staff gave up on some ten years ago. sat around eight years while I eyed it off for four ! Now been sitting in my yard for two years where I bent a push rod due to old oil or fuel sticking up a valve guide -so got head service grind ala glass plate slide about and new head gaskets. The fuel tank was so rotten inside it was turfed, under tray is now home to spare wheel carrier and new fuel cell is in the front of the tray. Fitted up with my old twin Hitachis I have had for 15 years or more now, running a CA100 IMPCO propane mixer to the rear of the carbs instead of at the front of the 100x50mm steel box atop the twins Air box is now identifed by measuring up the air filter and sifting through a manufacturers website. Is from a pre 2004 Mazda 323 Protege or the like. Is mounted where wheel jack was with a bracket coming off the horn bracket Also added a coolant reservoir bottle up in the corner with a rather long overflow hose. Worked a treat on my first Brumby. Just need to bleed the brakes, add one more electric fan and should be ready to present for registration inspection. Curent single fan comes in at 90C right on my alarm temp and takes forever to pull temp down by just one degree engine temp before switching off. Be doing something about that with the second fan for sure.

Not even running an ECU I just want factory cable to reach there is manifold vacuum and ported manifold vacuum, so not just manifold vacuum is good for dizzies according to some theories. many years ago, in the sixties, I think there was a difference between auto and manual strombergs on Ford sixes and that difference was the vac advance port was just above or just below the throttle plate. If i find the spider throttle body things may be easier except for the accy cable just being reminded I bought some LHD accy cables for their extra 100mm length, but the export centre director is still holding them and much other stuff last three years :( Took him 18 months before he issued a ransom note for postage and he has that too !! Think he needs to be named and shamed in here somewhere ....

er, Jono may not have the non spider gaskets ... think I worked out why Disco needed to retain the throttle body that not only matched the ECU and the wiring of the vehicle. The three plu ECU throttle body also had a vacuum advance port.Not sure if the 4 plug ECU whether spider or not had the correct ported vacuum for the old dizzy style. Got me worried now as the work I have put in is on a 4 plug ECU, although it does have two ports, doubt correct one is there for vav advance, though think the charcoal cannister is shared with dizzy on three pluggers, so whatever port for charcoal can may work nice with dizzy vac advance ???

gaskets are genuine ex Japan from friendly Su baru dealer spares people. May need to find them to confirm I have them and add some part numbers here....

am thinking will 'just' tap the holes and plug 'em up with grub screws and maybe drill sideways for the idle control circuit. I got better than tracngs and CAD - I got the gaskets Any sandwich will be hand made. Is a shame those successful conversions dont feature on forums. We were lucky with Disco, he wrote so well, we didn't need him to be able to post up photos. Thought I'd better share, rather than brag Some reports that NA spiders did not have much over the log style. Thought I'd better try for myself. Increasing plenum volume sort of goes against LPG best load adaptive mixture correction theory but ...have had some mixers quite some distance from the valves, some a little closer - as close as directly on a spfi throttle body - none obviously better or worse than the other. Something else I have seen with LPG and an inline 4 turbo - turbo not mounted against exhaust ports - was at the end of a set of extractors! note to self, find the silicone joiners I need ...soon !!

first pic is of the current problem Fast Idle Control Device, no it is something else isn't it? Is the big hole driven by big solenoid anyway. Gonna plug that hole up and as for the smaller dark spot which is the normal idle control bypass for getting idle speed correct is also a leak hole. Going to either epoxy up a landing, or use a sandwich plate that will block both holes and make a small breather ant trail like tunnel in the sandwiched plate. Next, I could have lined things up better and painted it Antonov Grey or something Reminds me of when I got to be just in front of a big mutha on the tarmac ! Spider TB to manifold is shorter on the vertical centre to centres, same on the horizontals as the log style inlet manifolds on the mpfi In order to get a three plug 85,86 ECU to work on a spider many years ago, Disco had a plate welded to the spider in order to fit the three plugger TB on. Something also in the cable pull arrangement being different on the turbo spiders at least. I just wanna try this set up with my LPG dedicated EA82M which is carb block with turbo mpfi heads and currently a log intake. Hang an IMPCO 125 mixer right off this TB and maybe duct the intake right through the dash to the cabin. Been done in a 60's Mini Cooper S with big side draught Webers, though backfires can be scary !! The lower right hole, used a bench drill to drill down the boss to a more even level, cut out with the never used end of a hacksaw blade in my fingers. Elongated the holes about 5 or 6mm Christmas holiday period tinkering so gotta try find all the bits to cobble up before everything closes up for at least two weeks !

err, my 87 Vortex has a manual 4WD but not dual range, so not everything

you can still get this hose genuine, or, I found a hose for the rear heater of a Landcruiser of the 80's or 90's had same ID and bend - Gates did one. My latest was to use silicone hose and a gates coil spring like bend in straight hose maker thing ....

a fella a little south of you ran his unknown origin EA82T with similar compression at 10 DBTDC. Some time later car was for sale with suspected blown big end. Dunno if you will get same outcome, or if a rebuild known engine would do same ,,, way to go !!

anything wrong with your four speed ? A fifth gear generally does not make you go any faster at same revs in top gear with these old Subes. I find that 2nd gear of the four speed is so much better for um...racing, snappy driving than 2nd in the 5 speeds. 3rd of the five speed does not have same efect as 2nd in the 4 speed. The 5 speed has superior shifter components over the 4 speed.

when a water cooled performance air pump of this age gets work done on say , head gaskets it is only risk taking if the other parts of the cooling system are not closely inspected and any suspect items being replaced. Mild steel pipes inserted into the block, the manifold, throttle body and turbo banjo bolts do rot out after 25 to 30 years. Rubber hoses might last 13 to 15 years easy when madein Japan - if you get double that you are so lucky and should reward engine with all new coolant hoses - I do anyway. Lose water/coolant from these, and welch freeze plugs, you wil cook your turbo engine. Every old car that is treasured really needs extra monitoring like engine metal temp overheat alerts, low or no oil pressure alerts - mine do As Ma Oze Bong says, keep adding water until you can find the source of water loss - don't forget to watch tail pipe for continuous run of steam ...

Take it to Performance Automotive ? You might research DiscoPotato03 who used SUEC and was unable to run engine long enough afterwards and sounds like all the disolved gunks, went back to hard gunk as engine cooled, stuck valves in the wrong places, but yours runs OK in mornings ??? I had similar, did everything then cleaned out fuel ines frpm carb to inside fuel tank. THUNK crap hit floor of empty tank, never did it again

just look for those groups where at least one bloke has a rather shrill voice, and another an extra deep voice - he may have a cluster

searched and searched in here for the post on LED conversion for twin light EA81 Brumby. No findy Had a moment to try the 3 rows of LED in a quad light size on the outer low beam. Needed to be rigged to work not just plugnplay. I considered too btright and scattered to trust oncoming drivers not to be blinded [but given the test drive later - others LED lights from factory have no regard !) These work nice in the high beam inner position - plug and play. Just need longer M4 bolts 16mm would do, I got 20mm- [not tapered, so not calling them screws! ] Yes, LED highbeam light is better - and different .....bit like flouro light different to incandescant in houses. I would love to try the low beams that run the bottom row and centre LED of middle row once wired correctly and drive towards my car on dark nights, wet dark nights to experience just what they do to oncoming drivers eye ! Would lve to see road hazards before i feel them sourced from China ebay seller also, as I had to release male terminals from the plug, zapped something lost bright low beam when returned to std lights, got that typical low yellow glow often seen in old datsun/Nissans of the 80's. Found i blew the fuse panel fuse for that light. i could not just rewire led to get low and high work while inner highbeam light connected. To dod would need the wiring mod with extra relays

I still have my left testicle, and would almost wager it again on the idea that the fuel line from tank strainer to fuel pump, or fuel pump to firewall has some crud in it. First step would be add a fuel cleaner to do some prep work for you, then once you dismantle all tubings and filters off supply line and blow clear, replace all fuel filters, inspect of pierce tank strainer - things should be better...just need some local test hills rather than drive to Vermont ! Not lose right one to any gambling either

the fuse box sort of hangs off that triangular section, usually with a white plastic insulator, headlight round relays and their own bracket screw to the other holes ...try that and see how puzzle fits back

oh, sorry , I read this as girl swap - wanted to see what was on offer

I had a square, race ? bowl 465 Vac secondary Holley on a straight six Ford that I was forever tinkering with and got it just right. So right that sometimes when heading up an incline, or the last time, sitting idling at lights up the incline, the engine would cut out. This time i could not get it to start after roadside fiddles. I was right beside the Ford dealer where I had bought the carter fuel pump not so long before. I was not getting any fuel, so blamed the pump. I unbolted pump to work its cam lever manually, still no fuel. Off to the parts guys asking for replacement under warranty. This was the last time I stepped into the dealers for anything. Due to the fuel pump smelling like fuel they said they would not take it back under warranty and just give me a new pump. Derr ...it is gonna smell like fuel, I was not asking them to try resell it !! So, a GM towed a Ford home, from outside a Ford dealer I started at the fuel tank, clean as a whistle 20 years old, blew all the lines clear from rear to pump, then pump to Holley, then found with disconnected at the Holley, I could pump fuel .... ???? coming out at the carb junction. Hmm, pulled the front float bowl off and found the small bent piece of tin that sits on the pegs at the top, inside the bowl as a splash guard to stop fuel splashing out the vent hole - sort of a wedge shape on its side that piece of tin, wedged under the float jamming the needle and seat shut just that one time, I fitted the anti splash shield after the bowl gasket, whereas it should have been before the gasket as gasket was the only interference to stop the guard falling off its pegs.