jono

the adjust handbrake cable and pump pedal is not in the 1981 - 3 service manual . Might be a result of an internal service bulletin maybe?

was discussing my lousy pedal feel after pushing pistons back on the front pad change, with former dealer mechanic. he remebers with delight how the handbrake cable needed to be loosened off at the adjuster under the console cover and pump the brake pedal like nothing else, adjust back up cable, finding not need as far as before and pedal comes good. I have never done it this way in five or six pad changes on EA81 and EA82.Was I just unlucky this time, or did my calipers need a rebuild ? The problem was sourced at just one caliper/corner, and when piston removed, found bore seal sitting awkwardly .....

i ordered what I thought was a pretty expensive O ring from the dealer. Turns out the A$20 got me two O rings - enough to do two calipers, or one axle, like brake pads and shoes come and maybe four little packs of RX2 grease. From what I can see also has instructions in Japanese

they are here ... first worry was beaten to by the tag on the box spot s it says. OK, I did not consider whether flood or spot was an option this purchase, though did buy a light bar specific with flood in the mix on the ends, spots in the middle. I wonder if the seller has the option, just did not mention in their ad that these were specifically spot as the label says. Second worry then is would they even fit in the securing frame ?? YES ! do they fit in the housing ? YES hmm, will the securing frame or bezel hold them in ....uh oh. I need to identify the screws and get some in longer than short as when LED light sits on four leveling lugs, the bezel frame sits 6mm proud. The main quad light surround with blinker in it, fits quite loose around these things so looks to be no problem, just the eyes will bulge a little. Being spot may not be a low beam option ...but, maybe wire them in with my low beams to give me some low beam spot to compliment std low beam outers ... OH...I want these babies as low beams. Continued fiddling sort of explains spots in my eyes ...with the cord in at the upper point, the low beam circuit is the bottom row and the middle of five on the next row up. high beam is 3x5 LEDs and tested aganst the shed door in sunset daylight the yellow of low and high beams pales to insignificance of the LED blue light on high Once someone (likely me) can ID the thread of the screws that hold the bezel in place and can get 'em 6mm longer, add some vac hose as packers then can get this unit on the headlight pattern tester aimer one day soon. Most likely will have the euro style no left or rightedness so should be safe in left or right hand drive worlds. next test would be to have someone drive towards me in the thing and see how it looks. still got spots in my eyes

coxy is an old man who wouldn't hurt a fly, swear or do any other bad thing to no one. he has about half a century of auto mods and repairs experience to share and loves his Brumby he is one of those old guys you might see at the library , waiting to go online - too poor to have internet at home and someones gone and hacked his account or something, got a life ban ! anyone know how to restore his faith in human kind ? Even if it is only cyberspace !

still waiting for the boat to come in from China .....

pulled the glovebox insert out to gain better access to ducting?

what is HVAC short for ? seen it before, assumed it was something else, now suspect it is cabin heater related if I recall, EA82 onwards Fuji don't use heater taps to bypass hot water/coolant flowing into dash gear. Can you adjust things by hand to at least direct fan air flow to windscreen ?

it might help to add if you have points dizzy or electronic and that you have matching ign coil as well what do you mean by everything has constant voltage there is a starter circuit to spin starter over, and there is the ignition circuit to allow the sparks to happen are you using a normal ignition switch and key, and just what sort of mess is the wiring ? From what you write, sounds like you are trying to power the starter via a wire to the coil ? What if you wired 12V pos to coil pos and gave thing a push/roll start ? Followed power through from batt pos to fuse link box and out to ign switch ?

looks RHD, looks like Australian house architecture and fencing !

genuine OEM from Subaru headgaskets , done four now, and on retorque, did not budge a bit. I ran non retorque required non OEM for 20,000km and were still fine in operation, yet took some when i did retorque them. What are the air temps when you are around town and on highway ? I find sometimes when it is hot outside mid 30 C and loaded up a hill, will run a few degrees more corrsponding warmer outside air. Maybe make an air dam to force more air in up from valance panel to rad meanwhile ? Just don't cook the baby !.

Can you wait a few more weeks ? I have recently ordered LED 4x6 to try out on my inners as highbeams only. The lights are three rows of LED that have a yellow square in each LED which is normal - they don't throw yellow light though. Also they are a high and low beam and guessing just the bottom row or maybe even the middle row light up on low, all for high beam. With our quad light set ups need to be careful what you fit especially in the inners - I had replaceable bulb type when bought it, had a metal insert where bulb sat, and somehow it made contact with bulb and earth of vehicle giving me four lights on high beam when all that was switched on was low beam. Sealed beam lights fixed that drama. The previous driver was a cop, and the owner before him, was a cop, with a used dealer in between them. Car must have had numerous annual inspections, change of owner inspection and none either noticed or cared their car did not light up any better when switch on the high beams - just the low beam was pretty good

not much left other than replace radiator , to check current one and put back together may cost half the price of a newie. then there is - cat converter blocking up ? which would affect the performance or the simplest - is radiator cap the original and not holding correct pressure no more ? Knowing the ignition timing is correct is a no parts check.

I have scored two dash tops in perfect condition in the past from the same wrecker. I swear dust prevents them from deteriorating out there in the yard !

1 and 2 should be easy, set them with TDC mark on flywheel. The other two you need to watch the rocker action as you turn over in engine rotation direction, and mark flywheel with some white out or corrector and return to same mark for second of the 3 and 4 pots. Most hydraulic lifters are adjusted on other engines by using fingers to rotate the rockers push rod as tightening and when tightness grips on pushrod to restrict it turning in n fingers nicely, back off 1/4 to half a turn on rocker adjuster. This obviously has to be on a cold engine coz you cant run it and may have to repeat on warmed up engine once you get it going and lifters pumped up. If lifters bled out while you did the gaskets they should sort themselves out once oil pressure gets in and up.

You have a mechanic on the job and u are in here asking questions ? Can you put the mechanic on the line ? On mpfi subes, I think at the fuel pump at rear is a damper thing that could look like a pressure reg, but reg is at the end of a fuel rail - on mpfi - spfi have a pressure reg at the manifold ? Think I had one there on my import stuff. When it is only just running, you need a pressure reading taken to get an idea if it is still a fuel problem.

depends on the spend you have in mind. I doubt that any dashboard restoration company has even considered old Subaru dashboards. I have an old 60's ford that I had the dash top restored - cracks filled,new vinyl covering all heat formed to original and job has lasted well over 20 years! Something that looked pretty cool same 20 years ago was seats recovered in wetsuit material .

just getting your wife used to a third pedal is likely all you are gonna have problems with the... ok, I will call it a 4EAT , the 4EAT that I scored came out of a car that got a normal 4WD DR selectable FWD 4WD box or maybe an RX box and from memory there were no issues. He left the TCU in the car, and sold it as same- a hidden TCU If the TCU and ECU spoke to each other it may have been ECU assisting the TCU rather than other way around . The ecu does have a pin that is supposed to be a transmission identifier like earthed of manual and not if auto sort of thing. I went 3 spd auto to manual and did just what you know - linked start in neutral wire and that was it. Ran OK without any ECU pin grounding/ not grounding

I may be able to add something for someone to exp[and on. I know two types of push rod. All alloy tubing, with steel end caps both ends, yet one end has knurling on it, to go at rocker end. Then also have some all steel ones with just ends shaped to round _ these may be the hydraulic lifter ones as I think I only have one set and had one hydraulic lifted/imported engine. Once read that the oil delivery differed to rocker ends if you mixed types up. The holes in each end are the same size though.. I bent both back rods, found valve stems were stuck/gunked up with wet sticky shiny black gunk that smelt same as the 8 year old fuel. I ran it on old oil, old fuel had been drained but must have left a residue to be disolved by fresh fuel, car sat, next start was hard, and took a fresh battery on crank to bend the rods.

anyone know if the metal bracket that bolts to the front caliper and holds the handbrake cable in place, whether it is interchangeable between EA82 and EA81 vice versa etc ?

language warning for video above BS alert - Australian market did not get carbed EJ versions good demo vid otherwise

someone will have them but you may need to measure up a good one, to add those details here or make a want ad .There are two types, at least, note the knurled grip markings and the ends. Did you set valve adjustments at rockers and turn engine over by hand before trying to start by cranking over? If the valve clearance too tight , valve not close and you will get a low comp like effect. Did you do one side or both ? Replace head gasket I mean ? The next two push rods might get bent if no work out the cause

see if this is still in my Ctrl V buttons http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=12V+aquarium+temperature+unit+12V&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X12V+aquarium+temperature+controller+12V.TRS0&_nkw=12V+aquarium+temperature+controller+12V&_sacat=0 yep, shout yourself one of these, ensure you find a 12V one with a range up to 120C before ordering as their values do vary in here, attach the temp sender to the metal of the engine by many methods - embed in a small block of ally bolted to engine block , fit up to a ring terminal, any handy 4mm hole ... different sort of thinking in way of monitoring what gets hot. lose all water and metal temp still keeps reading where some water sensors do not!

and ... been in touch with the Permatex people here in Australia item 24110 not a line carried in Australia and the Ceramic extreme brake parts lubricant is only , or has been the only purchaser of the stuff is a little company called Bursons. The bigger chains like REPCO SCA ...nope so...gave a Bursons a ring a ding ding and blow me over with a feather ...choice of 2 ! CRC sta-lube (sp?) a 71g tube - below http://www.crcindustries.com.au/products/specialty-chemicals/sta-lube-synthetic-brake-caliper-grease and Bendix stuff at about 40 bucks a 235g tub http://www.bendix.com.au/content/high-performance-brake-lubricant what I expect smurf poo to look like I expect and I notice our SCA stores claim to stock the 6g sachets on line anyway I do like the lithium based grease idea above, coz I think I have used a lithium grease in mine before - always a bit shakey using possibly wrong stuff though thanks for your efforts guys ! Naru - well done .. I looked at the link and you know, Tango would best describe the colour of the grease I rescued from the back of an EA82 brake caliper... a light orangey colour

hey, this is your thread Nice to see you are still about ! I never thought to look inside my reco one that has the concertina boots on it you know ! Just been at a 3M site, entered the clear silicone paste and number off amazon in search window - got nil result ! Though google also calls it dielectric grease so may be around electrical supply places in better supply than automotive, where we tend to be too thrifty to buy good stuff sometimes roll on Monday .... Yuck !! Inside the Beck n Arnley box, the caliper from Rock, is black, crusty stuff !! Be cleaning these out myself I think. Maybe the grease went dry and hard over twenty years of sitting around ??