jono

been looking further at the permatex line up and the one they call green, in a green labeled bottle, specifically says it is for brake slide pins ...surely it does not go on to say not to contact rubber or do they mean the other sort of rubber ? link to the green Permatex http://www.permatex.com.au/_products/Automotive/specialized+maintenance+++repair/brake+maintenance+++repair/Permatex+Ultra+Disc+Brake+Caliper+Lube-1373.aspx I'm happy CRC is also a known brand name here in Oz. Starting to think every mechanic and brake shop is bodgey - if this stuff is not on shelves at parts stores, or people being advised red rubber grease varieties - stuff not make sense if it is really not for metal to metal ??? Noting most articles in forums just say Permatex stuff, not actual name or part number ...hard to judge :( other permatex stuff found on Oz site http://www.permatex.com.au/_products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty+lubricants/Permatex+Ceramic+Extreme+Brake+Parts+Lubricant-1427.aspx hmmm....now also recalling a special run to a non other than a brake specialist shop, looking for assembly lube - got shrugged shoulders from the boss - think reply was "just use brake fluid" , but also showed no interest in finding me rebuild kit, was more interested in me handing over 3 big ones for them to rebuild my pair. link to CRC brake lube on amazon http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Brake-Caliper-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000M8IF1Q/ref=sr_1_16?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1443308486&sr=1-16&keywords=brake+caliper below might link to amazon and a 3M product that says conditions rubber - in a positive way I trust ! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNEH5O Be calling CRC and Permatex on Monday .....

this question does not get asked often enough it appears from many , many forum reads that red rubber grease is the go and never a copper anti sieze grease I do note that Castrol say red rubber grease is specifically for rubber to rubber contact in brake and clutch applications - or to that effect. Most times when I have needed to add some extra to sliders have used a molydenum grease as an add to the existing grease, which, if following a mechanic of nearly fifty years of bodge - must be wrong, coz in his mind, oils are oils. I am about to fit up a clan reco caliper and has no grease to ad to . A fella in a car parts joint says he just uses the red rubber grease. Thinking we have metal to metal lube needed, that does not react with now unobtainium rubber parts.of calipers. Mintex ceratec is often mentioned in forums, but Mintex themselves only state it for metal metal contact points without stepping out on that can mix with rubber limb ... Reading forums from US and UK are almost no good to some in AUS In the past have seen assembly silicone dribbly stuff - no idea where it came from but was prized ...and I see a clear silicone gel like grease stuff at the end of one slider pin And do you think anyone that sells brake pads n stuff, without being brake specialists - sell any other brake pin slider lube ? Permatex is another name to research ....got them here, maybe not specific stuff any comments on follow up of red rubber grease from years back welcome

and Rock don't list them from my searches. Does anyone have any other suggestions ? Subaru in the motherlkand is also coming up NLA below is a non genuine part on a reco caliper I got from Rock, so someone made them once ... "guide pin boot" is one with metal insert support tab also NLA and below is the "lock pin boot" these NLA could be the downfall of EA81 Series looking at differences between EA81 and EA82 calipers EA81 guide pins 14mm uses bonded metal "dowels" as called in manual to secure EA82 guide pins 16mm uses a simple expand boot over a "hob" to secure EA81 lock pin boot holes in caliper 16mm ID where the double concertina boot fits through to do both sides of mount EA82 lock pin boot holes in caliper 18mm ID ^^^^^^ what he said ^^^^ so, even if you could make an EA82 boot fit, will be loose due to smaller guide pin diameters

well, for starters you could reduce your boredom by telling everyone what model you have ac heap and awesome cheerful mod I have done on a bored day was to pull the tail light assys apart, revealing the dull grey diecast of the Brumby EA81 'reflectors' of globe light, and custom cut up the silver foil of florists, to suit each plane inside, smear a thin coating of silicone on surface and trim excess off with a hobby knife. The resulting extra brilliance when globes light up is flippin awesome! The tails look like brakes are already on, and then when brakes come on - flippin' heck !! Indicators and reverse all got same treatment so stand out more so too ! Only downside is sometimes when daylight shines at outside of lights, reflects inside to make it look like left my tail lights on Howzatt !

must ask why never ever use a stop leak product i used to say same until i came across lucas power steering leak fixer have also tried aussie made Nulon engine stop leak in my Brumbys 4 speed box to near dry up a front seal leak - which to fix proper is a bit like neeeding to poke finger down throat to scratch an itchy bottom. Do you know of why the stop leak should never ever be used ?

that is what you think - I hate to admit it, but I threw out a perfect E4AT [as the Subaru sales literature calls it in the Japanese text brochures ]came out of a 1989 L Series GLTA EA82 with AUD compliance plate. The Vortex AWD turbo also got them. A good Subaru dealer that was in business back in the day may still have parts books with their details in them. My E4AT weighed in at 113kg with torque converter and fluid, nearly gave me a hernia moving it from space to no space left

yes, correct. if the leak is from coolant side into combustion side, but think about min 160 psi combustion pressure V's 13 psi coolant pressure - be more likely to be blowing combustion pressure into coolant. Can also get oil in coolant coz oil pressure greater than coolant pressure most of the running time. and the common reverse, coolant in the oil coz when you shut down engine, coolant still has pressure, oil does not, takes easy path to the bottom of your sump. Next start up unknowingly mixes coolant and oil under heat and pressure Then, can also get leaks from one pot to its next door neighbour - showing up in comp tests esp if next doors plug is out other leaks can be

as close as i can get to describe the head spinning stuffs pong without swearing ! Comes from my days as a bowser boy, used leaded fuel to clean up the refillable oil bottles. And, yeah, apart from water content of most brains, the fats that make up for another large portion are disolved by fuel fumes

efi fuel pumps often present as a problem hard to start before they give up and die while driving. I have got my EA82 efi pump going by whacking it with a hammer pre start and during start with ign on and got a few more days weeks of life. I have also tried wiring dirctly to a sealed lead acid tiny 12V battery to test - sometimes just needed a kick but ended up replacing with aftermarket. These pumps can also deliver fuel giving impression they are ok until you test the pressure, may flow without restriction of injectors on end of fuel line. Injectors need the pressure to spray nice mist of fuel. General rule of thumb is using some starting assist stuff in a spray can, spray according to its safety instructions etc. If engine fires momentarily you get an idea the pump is shagged. Still no fire it could be spark along ignition path of things Unfortiunatly the horrid smelling stuff will just flow with gravity out the tanks 1/2" hose, so crimp it between tank and pump

have done several now, two hours out, 2.5 back in. With the heater/ vent control panel it can remain in the main structure of the car if you undo the screws holding it in place and juggle it back through the frame it sits in. Means you only need undo the fresh air in cable at the other end and not disconnect hot cold cable. I was once put off this project by a Subaru specialist workshop by him saying first step in the manual is remove windscreen. The right number of 10mm spanners, sockets n stuff allows the first step to be bypassed. For future access needs, I made one inch holes in the vent cover plastics that cover the three 10mm headed bolts and put one inch rubber bung plugs in place

NSW RMS RTA abides by a national code, sort of copied from a national thing, adopted as their own, I think, and wording sort of may not allow EJ under owner certified coz they weren't for the MY model - rules 318, 319 and 320 , maybe 321 - and sort of suggests so long as no structural mods, or drastic structural mods no engineer cert is needed. But, there is also a rule that with things called light truck such as your lil Brumby and mine there is no capacity ceiling - may not fall under owner certified, is how the reader reads the rules. Shannons even though they ask if modified, if the mod not engineered and not the cause of the claim they have no objections to reject claim. But if it was stole and they say it was stole because it was a turbo or go faster model ..... seriously want more squirt from my EA81

starting to suspect you have Disco's old spidey with the three wire TPS from series 1 EA82 non spidey inlet manifold. He welded a plate onto his spider to be able to use the TPS that went with the vehicle and its ECU. Yep, proper spider throttle opened opposite to non spider. Throttle plate/butterfly same diameter.. Series 1 TPS were three wire, one being earth ? the other for idle position, the other activate at about 60% open. The S in TPS for theses means switch, not sensor. Next gen EA82 had potentiometer style sensor feed for the ECU, some were four pin, some others four pin and an additional three pin plug with three wires off the side !

you should also be able to find a funnel designed to fit in the neck of the radiator of an EA81, maybe some extra electrical tape to make it a nice tight fit. I run mine with funnel fuller than full to burp it, squash hoses a bit, heater tap open ie hot and also run an EA82 or home built coolant overflow reservoir and suck back double seal cap on radiator.

definitely not just yet, even cashed in my EJ box casings for EA box at the scrap yard a few years back to prove it. But, if needing to pay an engineer for a certificate of an engine upgrade to turbo, may just be more practical to do an EJ20 AWD on the Brumby and thinking is all I am doing ....

ahh my 17 years as a non cancelling blinker owner - the fingers are well trained ... maybe i should be making it work in a Brumby ? I am pretty sure that new combo switches are available genuine, just the hock shop would be stocking a lot of left nuts

while got attention of an authority on these bits nncoolman, the gudgeon pin off set can be seen with naked eye or with verniers from measuring yeah ? so, um is the pin centre closer to the upperside of the bore or lower side when mounted correctly ? This info would be for offaset pistons not marked left right just up or front

on the need to space the starter motor back .. I worked out my difference was 4mm, so made what essentially looks like is a big thermostat housing gasket out of 4 mm aluminium sheet. If you get an EA81 and EA82 flywheel in 4WD anyway, lay each crank side side on a bench, look at ring gear height off bench to see and understand why the spacer is needed, or you machine off the back of your flywheel - neat idea you say teeth, but they are a bit like fingers , and how long they are and the diameter of the hole in the middle is sort of determined by the throw out bearing contact point. I used EA82 4WD fork and throw out bearing that contacted about 5 mm or more along the fingers, making for harder pedal to push. Just watch your steps matching, not sure how you'd measure the pp step ? Erp ? You wont be able to get an EA81 disc fit the EA82 4WD box input splines like you listed , surely ?

I have been told that to fit an EJ engine and its AWD box into an EA81 of normal height - the trans tunnel needs work to fit and not bump against tunnel. To what detail does anyone know ? Got pics ? thanks

and....?

1300 cc in an L sedan - criminal

aha, they have to breathe for some reason - and that looks like it makes sense. Naru, you say your manuals - factory manuals or someone elses ? cos my factory manuals have about three or four different EGR operation 'phases' depending on markets or aspiration method. I think there are two speeds that the EGR is meant to cut out depending on type or country. And as I have said somewhere befroe, found my EGR worked no matter op temp or car speed despite the ECU control is said to have. Higher engine or car speeds may be what helps keep it all nice and clean

time this old thread got bumped this is an often forgotten forum section for me - expected to find this bump in the regular fast paced forum. I found it interesting to read Jul 2013 ivan was measuring up the possibility of EJ20 pistons NA in NA EA81 or 82. I recall maybe a year ago, somewhere, same guy saying he had done several of these EAs with EJ pistons and was a good upgrade. Am sort of missing the info in between. I am wondering if they have only been around a year or so, how are these engines going ? Is it just a case of NA EJ20 pistons and rings, machine the little end bush in the con rod from std 21mm to the EJ gudgeon pin 23 mm and you are done ? must remember to look in here more often

warning old thread bumped

and what got my attention - the white plastic indicator cancel doo hickeys - wondered if they interchanged !

a service bulletin non subaru came out once on EA82 - running oil level over the sticks full mark can lead to frothy oil ....