jono

job for Jes to find this EA82 TC !

naru - my factory manuals for early 85 86 claims EGR not operational until at op temp, nor is it operational or supposed to be above was it 28 mph ? Though, depending ondiffering world markets for these Subes, there are differing conditions when and when not the EGR works. Looks like EGR in most of our markets is for use in built up areas of low speeds. Not picking on you but wondering where you get your understanding that EGR not operate until car warms up ? I am all for the canister to be working properly and would prefer to try see how car ran with solenoid bypassed so cannister was evaporating more often, than not. There are so many cars with solenoid air vacuum control about, should not be hard to find one with similar operation from most Japanese cars. I think the egr one lets the EGR side bleed to atmosphere when switched off, no idea why it needs to bleed off though ? I used a similar from a carby EA82 inlet for my EA82T EGR, fixed the code iscout types faster

got a pair of EA82 1985 model combo switches, and no EA82 to use them in, saw the resemblance and thought worth asking. Task for a day of empty boredom I think

rattle gun

every old EA82T I have pulled has had crud blockages and Kangaroo Theodore pipes at the turbo for coolant, and the banjo bolt in underside of turbo side head coolant transfer pipe - little wonder they cooked after so many reliable years. A new oil drain back hose from turbo another good thing - use oil contact rubber hose in 5/8" ? and can use silicone hose in 1/2" for bending coolant hose below turbo and keep your membership up to date in here

Good one coxy - forgot Pedders were also into brakes ! Good thing when I ordered up from rock, ordered a rebuild kit for a master, got another reco master in oversize and some almost complete reco calipers, so I can run my own exchange service amongst my fleet instead of cripple one to race another . I will be set I think. thanks

no one should be hard on a 28 year old turbo Subaru as it is still here now, not crapola after first five years or so ! and depending on what avenue of engineering you are going or interested in - it will be perfect for you. Just get a repair manual, some tools like lots of different 10mm spanners and sockets, thread repair stuff of choice, 36mm socket with 3/4" drive, a breaker bar to suit, keep old t shirts for rags, locate wrecking yards with same era subes, locate dealer for parts, make friends with rockauto and you will be fine

manual 4 speed 85 ? An EA81 then being 4 speed ? smoke or steam ? oil makes smoke, coolant makes steam is the drive home easy, no hard work on engine, long flat straight road ? Or did the smoke occur after a tight bend in road, up hill or down what was low when you checked the engine immediately after ? You did check yeah ? Time for a check up maybe ? Comp test to make sure no blow by , or maybe you went tight bend, slopped up some oil via the PCV hoses off the rockers ... a catch can install can help with that ......

just be careful shaking hands with your buddy !

BratRod - been in to look at the Ford Courier 1980 master cylinders and yep , yep I reckon you are so on the money with that ID Excellent call ! an 11787 in an 11967 box ! Issue is resolved with Rockauto in a satisfactory outcome I suppose. No hassle - keep it, got purchase price refund and a percentage of freight cost refunded to my payment account. So, I guess I have to be happy with that. Also got a BMC in reco form to suit a LHD Ford Courier from 77 to 1980 with a rock price of 40 bucks! I suppose with some new pipe work could also fit a RHD unless RHD and LHD outlets are the same - but doubt it . Not such a cult vehicle yet the old Couriers Thanks for your efforts gents

anyone ever thought about why the EA82 does not go as hard as an EA81S given the EA81S and EA82 share same valve configuration as in >>> ex, in, in ex and a standard EA81 is > in ex ex in The EA81S also had was it siamesed exhaust ports and twin carbs What if EA81 twin carbs were fitted to an EA82? Still no spin like an EA81S allegedly does ....

just looking at a combo indicator / hazard / high beam switch from an early EA82 and thinking it looks similar to an EA81 combo switch. Has anyone adapted something later into EA81 steering column mounted combo switches ? These EA82 switches have a weird inbuilt flasher can functon which would screw with the EA81 flasher can installed already .... but, there are some genius's out there ....

well, not in a BRAT or even a jump seat , but my dad did a run of a 1400 mile return trip in the back tray of a utility between Sydney and Melbourne on the highways cough, cough of the early 1950's !

yep, I understand that, was trying to convey we have had to use a one piston does all three EA71,81 and 82 NA and think the compromise is in compression in my EA81 I built - gets a 160 psi cranking pressure in all pots at 60,000km old. I have factory EA81's with 200,000 and 500,000km on them than punch out 180 and 190 psi cranking speed

check the bulbs is first on my list then check for the blinker flash can fuses etc pics !

there is a procedure to follow and connect the jumpers to read the codes off the LED on the ECU strapped to underside of steering column. Ask if you can do a comp test on cylinders ... may just need tune up stuff like filters plugs leads cap and rotor etc two green plastic connectors in loom just near the ECU in a few models, think you connect once warm, running etc - I forget. Only time I got a LED read it was accurate and fixed, never a trouble again !

Pretty quick and got most main points ... Connect up your timing light ? Tweety, this almost sounds like any car manual where they might just say 'remove' without saying how most timing lights now have a delicate magnetic inductance ? pick up you gently as snap over the number 1 HT lead - some engines like to be different and use another cylinder. Some old school timing lights have a spring like adaptor to stick in between spark plug and its lead like my old Radio Shack/Tandy jobby ala 1981 Vac advance needs to be disconnected at dizzy and plugged up so extra air not screw up speed/mix etc I check mine running before loosen off clamp screw on dizzy and check engine speed ` (800rpm) and always get it to that speed to alter/check timing. Stick vac advance tube back on and see no difference in timing think both EA81 and 82 the dist rotor turns anti clock when running, so by turn dist clock wise when clamp bolts (most EA82 have two clamp bolts) are loosened off, nudge it a smidge clockwise to advance, or anti to retard. You can also rev it a bit and watch to see if timing is advancing as revs increase - match the specs. I run 22 @ 800 with a RON (Oz RON anyway) 109 fuel - propane - on an EA82, sixteen on an EA81

nice bit of digging .... I have an old turbo spider that I want to try on a NA mpfi I have been running ....time to go get the gaskets and work out how I am gonna feed its fuel - propane !Really need to have it running as old style first, then a quick swap over to feel rather than recall how it ran a year ago - last time I drove it ! I reckon there is a difference between early and later EA82T - my early ones all gave the fact spec crank pressures of 130 psi whereas my later spidey EA82T in an XT has cranking pressures of 150 psi - sort of rough, crude comparison, but a good indicator in my mind The euro spec may have got more HP but it was at higher revs too

a common problem for engine rebuilds is when just the engine is rebuilt and the carbs, manifold and dizzy are just banged back on for the next lifetime - not reconditioned, cleaned up or inspected and may contain the reason the previous engine became cactus .....looks like you are going about things the right , OCD way Wasn't this one the one with just 5000 miles on it since rebuilt ? Have since read the post by the previous owners and note the rich mixture comment Also interested to see the 1600 pistons used for higher comp. The only after market pistons I have seen are a compromise piston to do EA71, EA81 and EA82 non turbo or efi. Lucky for you if you can actually get higher comp 1600 pistons. Another reason why this baby might scream is not got a rear wheel drive section to lug about ....

hmmm my 85 MY mpfi turbo had two round 22A relays as found all over our years of subes and Mitsubishis too! how many pins on relay of concern ? 4 ? surely one has to be an earth for the coil of the relay. Hook up a test light to power and touch each wire to that relay to see if just one earths out - treat it as #85 on an ordinary horn relay. swap test light clip to a known earth such as the key in ignition switch, and probe with ignition on for a wire only to operate with IGN on - this should be the lightest of two with power on with IGN - likely your #86 contact. See if you can make these two wires click a good relay without any other wires added to relay. The fatter IGN power wire would then go to #30 and #87 could go out to power up say the coil ? another reasonable test point

yes, ganging up against some of your words naru once tried to work out a claim that to remove EGR from EA82T adds 10 kW so, I plumbed in a T piece to EGR vac line, added another EGR to my spare hand while driving and observing EGR operation. The ECU was supposed to limit its operation by the solenoid to work only at operating temperature - above 75 C for starters and with turbo EA82 cut out above 28 mph . Different NA EA82 engines got differing shut off conditions. Switzerland and Sweden got what looked like an open circuit - no solenoid control at all another got EGR off at 50 mph and off below 35C water temp mpfi NA if engine running at high speeds and high loads EGR is shut off to improve fuel economy. Mine operated like the Swiss model even though had working solenoid, worked at all temps and speeds, so long as vac condition was correct. When an EA82T is making most power is under boost so to block off to gain 10kW is a trick on some people

just what is a rebuild ? My mates eyes is a rough rering and whatever it needs to get out of shop and warranty period. In my eyes is rebore and new everything. New head gaskets as far as I can see with this one. What sort of rings has it got may assist in autopsy - no one fits chrome to rebuilds - too hard to break in, so rings likley cast if has been 'rebuild'. The way I have seen EGRs carbon up I would have thought they'd be stuck shut and not pass any zaust back into circulation ??

I was thinking you had same problem I did, but mine was the inlets at the back of each head, valve stems gummed up with a still sticky, shiny, stale fuel smelling gunk - from trying to start and run an engine not run in nine years on its old fuel, old oil. The job was done with engine still in EA81 ute Good luck oh, in those pics, if the engine mounts are still holding engine block to bell housing - be a little tricky and sump bolts ....

warmer air outside also reduces cooling effect, as does sticky thermostats and old temp sender units can also be tricky. I had one that never went above quarter no matter what I did. A digital minder revealed otherwise, prompting swapping sender for another used one that was happy to go above quarter when temp went up !

thanks heaps for the clarification BratRod , my upside down southern hemisphere understanding of late model has been more most recent model, and early model is how I would describe 1980s model. I'll look it up on Rocks site see what I see - definitely a white heffalump here. Not really happy Rock just offering a refund on purchase price when the box is so clearly marked for attention and not correct product. Their auto resolution software suggested no other replacement item available to supply. Might have to talk to them on the phone ......