jono

Mate, despite mine being AWD it has the front struts from a FWD Loyal sedan. I dondon't have their numbers or measurements at hand. Spring has coloured paint daubs for you to find and tell. Left are different to right

OK. Need anyone that knows the vacuum advance/boost retard canister of the 1985,1986 series One turbo three plug ECU flapper AFM vintage I had the canister reconditioned with a new diaphragm and after some discussion it came back as a retard only - no vacuum advance :( The reconditioner has done a few in his twenty years and says the innards did not contain the bits to do two functions, only one.I misheard the gist of the conversation. I also find it hard to believe the unit was any different to the others of the past. Another has been sent insisting that it is, was and must be a two function can, not two stages - must be vac advance and boost retard. Good reasoning and his experience would suggest a spring would be either side of the diaphragm, or in the mechanism controlling things at the back of the housing could do as required.Has anyone experience with these boost retard/vacuum advance units on the Hitachi distributors? The Australia only model distributor is 22100AA063 and the rest of the world I think is 22100AA093 ( I need to check this last number)

Before you start get a can of spray on degreaser, give the area a pressure wash so you can see things which may also help if you share photos of "what's this ?"

yeah if it is revving OK just no joy in moving real well it does sound like a clutch if so you'd likely smell a lasting pong of burning friction material that leaves lingering in nose Got a good sense of smell and hearing ? Coz that will be copping it too from hearing revs Beside the clutch cable under the bonnet where cable crosses from gearbox to fork should be a rubber bung plug, not the fork boot, that is the timing marks plug. If you remove plug when engine not running and no smart arses to turn engine over or honk horn you may find black fibrousy crud build up from centrifugal force. That be asbestos friction plate material. Or maybe the pressure plate has lost its spring clamp force. Either way, you can learn how we all did, to pull the engine to get at the clutch, instead of drop heavy gearbox to get at same

trick of the eye, sorry. You can just make out 30mm printed on it. Sourced via ebay, came from China and search words may have referred to the adaptor hole in it plugged up with brass plug. is intended to fit after market temp sender unit in mid hose. I think I have two Camry hoses there for the bends and size to fit my EA82 to my EA81 Brumby radiator bottom hose. Top hose is EA82 top or bottom hose

that pic of Silas's is of a NA dizzy for sure - clips, two / wires, and basic vacuum advance canister not boost retard as well

cam seal cover might be the cam seal carrier alloy housing, I should have read better before I got some poor fella 9who has not returned yet) trying to fix an alloy thread with zip tie :)

Can't find 92ausubaru post looking for this...I have this dizzy with body loom side plugged in for a few inches White dizzy sides to black Black dizzy to black/red Green dizzy side to white Red dizzy side to red Black/red body side is only one not shielded

A collector may have a requirement to keep it factory. I have one of those msd units never used it but is designed to work with many normal standard dizzy coil combos

I am certain I used almost one extra litre when I refitted the 36 kg worth of rear diff and axles n stuffand still in fwd function So fuel saving was in weight and reduced rolling friction ThenI upped the carb and converter size to bigger engine stuff ...tuned her in and got back to same as without rear drive bits Now awd box is in feels a little tardy much like awd to rwd ford territory difference. Ratios may be different to before. Next chance I get will do comparison run

I don't think Rockauto have a © on this subject do they? I think my biggest blunder this w3ek originated as a bright idea. I am an engine out to get gearbox out kinda guy and this time I was not going soak my boots or clothes or floor with valuable heavy metal laden coolant I had blank off plugs for the heater hose connections and found a neat bung plug for the EA82 water pipe. Job done ( now got full-time push-me-pull-you 5MT) Initial test drive was to be shared with a mate, but he no home so I push on. After 3 km my 100°C engine temp goes off so I pull over...fan not cut In a's I forgot to connect earthing switch at radiator. Hooked up fans still not pull temp down At 104°C I park and cool it down. Fire her up again to run home suspecting thermostat stuck ...just coincidentally. Go around a corner and got a hiccough thennext corner a backfire intake side -propane - then engine died. See why it is important to lay down the sequence of events before asking on a forum, or worse - Facebook ! I checked my vapour gear - all ok. Tried to fire up but just crank crank crank Hmmmm...pulled dizzy cap wondering if spilt coolant - yeah plugs not water tight in the heater hoses while engine was out.... Dizzy cap dry as a dead dingo's donger (silent g by the way , pronounced g is a family name !) Cap innards so dusty from rotor scrape top of those 22200AA390 dizzy module covers aaaand the carbon brush dust. Cap and rotor less than 20,000 km old and brush has disintegrated back into its spring housing and black arced mark on the rotor. Luckily I keep spare dizzy in tool box and said box just got put back in car....and I also had a spare new cap as well..the things you find !!! The blunder ??? Suddenly dawned on me I did not recall taking water pump pipe plug out before hose back on Pipe was hot, hose was cold, so too the radiator !! Stupid found the bung plug had travelled against the waters natural flow and got stuck in the bottom radiator hose. Removal was a good thing

Hitachi dist with four pin module inside screw Down cap and vac can for 85 86 turbo in Australia use Australian numbering scheme GH617 cap and GH605 rotor LookWWW.eBay.com.au

Sorted. A little patience, marker and jigsaw.... The mount on rear for the stay bar that goes up to mount to underside trans tunnel has different spacing to non awd box and mount has studs not holes in back of box Box is sweet. Test drive revealed stupid forgot to tighbut rear of alternatot 8 mm nut, fit fans earth wire to switch, wait for coolant to settle and suffered a massive intake backfire due to carbon brush chewing out inside dist cap ! Then no start. Lucky iI had toolbox with me containing spare cap only fifty houses from home too !!

Engine stops running and can predict when it will watching seconds tick over.....68.69.70 ...wait for it....stop

I use black cable ties when repair is not possible. For those in good condition I use rubber washer or oring as mechanicalthrrad locker yet gentle on ancient fastening principles so not using mating faces to bind stuck

OK. Now the awd 5MT EA DR is in my EA82 'powered' Brumby it will surely use more fuel Anyone have documented experience of similar gearbox only change?

First awd box was single range and this one dual range. One came without any shift gear, and DR came from an L wagon but not factory Wondering if dual range had different stay bar mounts at the rear of box

Silly phone

Seems half of us believe rod and levers need cutting to fit EA82 box into EA81 body I have done twice retaining its levers from donor and only needed to trim the floor hole so thinking what the? To keep EA81 console EA81 levers have been uI think ed and i think these are the ones getting lever and rod cuts Now just tried fitting EA82 awd box to replace EA82 5MT DR and flipping levers demand a bigger hole in the floor. The awd box must be longer from front to lever mounting Odd thing is my first awd box - the levers fitted just the stay rod bolt hole needed shifting

It is in and functioning as required. Cannot say same for the computer. Seems to have a timer in it not declared. Cuts out after 70 seconds if left to idle at op temp

Factory 6 psi , I had upped it to 12 or 13 and using factory hose and clamps just cruising on boost without changing down a gear...then a thump to the underside sound blanket and then bonnet. All in prep tofor EA82T into my Brumby - frustration plus waiting for the day

Eyed them off first but lucky us Norma use the size we need onEA82 as the step point change up and down sizes and the flat curved guide is too invasive on the shape of the hose. I tried clamp on hose without fitting to " cooler" pipe Gee, this rain is nice and welcome Might have to suck it and see on this one (& keep some fence wire handy )

Plus up to 30° for split pin hole alignment. Just checked one and did not take any more to set off torque wrench Will mark noisy side for reference After 20 years of these I now know my toyque wrench has the scope Edit. Next side was about 4 mm off what I did by feel. Who knows how tight that made it. Both now at spec. Still a noise but may not be bearing....

196 Newton metres 145 footpounds

Probably done about fifty myself using body weight for fronts. Rears somehow seem easier using raw muscle. Gregory's manual and L books say 196 but my 83 fsmFSM says 145 which maxes my torque wtenwrench so going that way first time ever. FWD rears are different again