jono

genuine prices are sometimes the same or less than after market - such as outback clutch kit was almost 300 dearer aftermarket and another 400 metres past the genuine dealer. EA81 sump gaskets about same between markets. Then there is a quality thing. Yes, just felt my local guys disinterest in helping me get a kit to do my calipers translated into me thinking if I ordered two masters from US I could just shop for a few more things and have no troubles like you do when going for shims and the little hardware kits - spring clips, another MC overhaul kit, got a pair of reco calipers, some caliper kits and other little bits of handy - all works out quite better value until you get this pig in a poke ! ps ...ebay price on new MC A$375 delivered !

Oh BratRod - you reckon ? ...when you say late model ...what sort of years do you think ? Thought B2000 was twenty years ago , sort of been 12v B2600 in our market since about 1990 in the Ford Courier/Mazda Bravo. Nice pick if it is ! I am sure it is not worth the freight cost to get it back to the States either Most Toyota stuff seems to have aisin cast in to them somwhere it weighs 1325 grams which must have played with their freight allowance when compared to the 606 grams of the Subaru master !!

I am thinking forward control van with remote reservoirs .... markings are R for rear circuit, F for front circuit markings underside are a raised 3 on its own, then further along is 224000 no other identifying markings at all, other than a U stamped into the machined face that would bolt to a booster looks to be 25mm or 1" bore, no closer to 15/16" not 13/16" of our subes ! total body length 195mm and 59mm ctr to centre mounting holes

got these bibles in 2006 for A$150 delivered - all six volumes/chapters in hard plastic binders. When you consider the hourly rate a mechanic or auto elec charges .....and even then, most don't know the details these revaeal ...such as EA82T ran different exhaust valves to NA

please ? I did a long distance parts order for a master cylinder for 85 BRAT and got this does anyone know what it may be off? it is a Front Rear not a Primary Secondary divided circuit master is cast iron not alloy is a remote reservoir not a sit on top type is six and 12 o'clock mounting not 3 and 9 was in correct box marked wrong product and five stars to draw attention how effing wrong a part could this be ?? currently going through refund query process which won't be happy due to postage raw deal starting to know Tweetys pain

got my stuff from rock - reco calipers , one not come with guide pin boots so they are on order ex-Japan. Interesting to see new handbrake lever end boots, one looks genuine, the other an aftermarket made in USA. Were from different suppliers so explains different stages of rebuild.. Turns out the handbrake side of things repair kit genuine no longer available. Ended up sourcing a nice little kit of piston seal, piston dust seal, the two different slider pin concertina boots and the 11.00 OD O- ring, also got a 13 mm OD O ring, no idea where it is for ? the Rock sourced caliper repair kits came as piston bore seal, dust boot, dust boot ring clip and a bleed nipple cap - no O ring for handbrake screw ! Sort of explains why those who have put a kit through not needed to do full rebuild ! That O ring on its own is $A20 each exJapan genuine edit the price covers two O rings 60g of the RX2 grease and a silicone grease sachet

lif lid at night in pitch black and watch engine running see if any sparks seen jumping about ! Points or electronic ignition? How is shaft side play in dist ?

I fitted a tail shaft centre bearing 'mount' by the standard method when fitting EA82 5MT DR in my EA81 Brumby. Two lengths of 5 or 6mm flat bar, 40? mm wide. removed seats, flat bar drilld to suit centre bearing bolt spaces centres, bolt to centre bearing , push up against floor, using string line from fron to back to position it. First used small drilled holes in flat bar to dril through floor from below, then used rivets to hold in place to check alignment, positioning etc, then drill the biger 8mm holes through bracket flat bar, through floor, two bolts and four washers each bolt - done all on my lonesome

yeah that is it, piston seal and o ring , and the correct grease and lubricants for the various components. From the rockauto pic of the caliper overhaul kit - three items, piston dust seal, piston bore seal and the O ring I am pretty pleased to see how really simple it is now I have ventured to remove the boots after finding the circlips more to find according to the manual ! Had been put off by the rear boots, the grease requirements and 'looked' hard - thought worth the experts doing, put the job off maybe 3 to 5 years ago due to quoted cost $150 a caliper. No one seems to stock the kits locally so thought I'd better order internationally and bought out Rocks supply from same as in cart I am beginning to doubt the o ring does leak as I was suggesting to brake guy I was thinking of just doing a quickie piston seal replacement, so, he did not have the kit, would have to order it and dust boots if needed, really needed two people to do the job in some part. My caliper that really needs attention - found no rust to internal surfaces, just rust particles floating about from somewhere ... and the piston seal in bore did not sit square to piston side, was pretty sloppy when fitted to the piston. The seal from practice caliper was a tighter, yet still not tight fit on the piston. EA81 and EA82 front caliper pistons may even be same part - interchangable ? Just a warning to anyone using compressed air to pop the pistons out - be FULL OF CARE - those pistons can come out at an alarming rate - break fingers I reckon! I use several pieces of soft wood to stage the piston coming out, 1/4" at a time to soften the blow !

got it undone ! - thanks for your ideas OK, got as far as pull apart on my practice EA82 front caliper. Manual says to do handbrake end first. I have already done reverse, piston is out - much like as if you were only doing piston side stuff. Note from completion - all I needed to do was wind piston back in on screw to go against manuals order . A 4" G clamp is my secret weapon. As piston was out, needed to give clamp a square base to work with so a large washer about [ 60mm dia ] to protect things placed over piston hole....held G clamp to use its factory foot to step on the spring loaded part under the axle of the handbrake lever rod and just pulled lever out. Manual says pull only - means no hydraulic pressing or other damaging tools! There is no powerful force behind spring like there is when undoing a front strut without spring clamps OK tool # 925600000 looks like a glue cartridge nozzle but they don't substitute - I tried. Also tried wrapping screw thread in gas grade teflon tape and rolled the O ring (11.00 mm OD ~ 1.86mm cross section] With these brakes coming up 20 to 30 years old, makes good sense to do job properly .

yeah , thanks for the tips , shoulda said I have done a few calipers over the years even just steel wool clean up, same bore seal and never any trouble , never done, never needed to do a Subaru one in over 500,000km of driving many different old ones ! I should have mentioned that a brake guy mentioned the seal - O' ring on the handbrake screw device can be a pain coz they can leak and yes. this is what I am asking about. edited out the thinking parts

aha, is sort of self explanatory, so calipers are different and not just a bracket change then ...thanks naru Looks like Bendix not in the UK or otherwise we would also see MV or MV1800 in the listings

This part subjected to editing tool number 925471000 - disc brake cylinder puller - for pressing cone spring front disc brake.can be replaced by a simple 4" G clamp. A 3" G clamp may also work. Going to flatten one side of the round foot of the G clamp where it sits on the screw pin top. On assembly need to ensure the pillow shaped connecting link is still sitting centrally between the hand brake lever spindle and screw thing is used to press the spring loaded handbrake section to piston screw, once pressure is off the handbrake lever spindle can be extracted by hand. Other "tools" I have used are small plastic wedges from ceramic tiling trade stuff Got some 0000 fine grade steel wool for cleaning up piston and bore and other sensitive bits Note to self: also need the heel of the right angled pointy end of the marking scribe tool to help seat the piston dust seal into the groove of the body of caliper and drive it curved heel direction not the pointy end forward. In place of part # 925600000 I got some clear soft/flexible PVC? tubing that was a tight fit to get it over the spiral screw thread in order to slide the O ring over and along. Pushed it right up to the shoulder which rendered it non-removable without destroying. A little ` 10mm excess length to cut once in order to make a ramped funnel shape to introduce the O ring to its new path .... The PVC was actually a special size sold as a joiner of standard reel supplied pvc tubing made or supplied by Pope I marked the outer edge of the O ring to determine if it made it to its groove as it was born, not rolled inside out in its final working place. I used a paper correcting fluid before coating things with the white/clear/opaque silicone grease. Wiped corrector fluid off after in place. Notes on the handbrake boot. Mine came off a 92 model so 23 years old and in great condition - like new inside where exposed to Subaru's RX-2 grease so I retained them. Gave the outside some time cleaning up with degreaser, scrubbing brush and some CRC556 to restore their look and get rid of crusty mud, dirt and grit. The flat spring retaining band join seems to end up at the position of a a seam of the rubber boot in most easily seen and accessible section of the caliper when fitted to car would face passengers in car.... . in the same fashion that the piston can or must be wound in on the handbrake screw at the back of the piston the pistons can be would out with same tool - eliminating the need to blow a piston out - sprays brake fluid about no matter how you rag things up or potential to damage piston or fingers !

Just wondering what year the EA81 changed from solid front disc rotors to vented in the US market. I was once sold pads to suit solid for my 10/84 EA81 Brumby, turned out I needed next pad along. Figured my ute was made for MY85 and maybe that is when they started vented, or the sales dude just screwed up, or someone upgraded vented discs and later calipers to replace solids on mine - DB426 (D291 US numbering). Hmm, also wondering if the caliper changed with the rotor change, or just the brackets changed and use same caliper ? Mmm...no wonder ..am looking at a Bendix catalogue 1800...............4WD............................1980-83...front...DB326 (D189 US numbering) Brat.................AU2,5................1982-83...front...DB326 ........................DL,GL.........................1981-84..front...DB392 ( no us type number in cat) ..........Turbo fwd hatchie...........1984-86..front.....DB426 Brumby.......pick up.............................1981-84...front....DB392 ................pick up 4WD.............1982-85...front...DB326 ..............pick up 4WD..........................Mar 85-94...front..DB426 .............utility............................1979-80 ....front DB112 so, looks like Bendix think Brats came out in non 4WD ? Not sure the difference between a pick up and a utility is either

can also sound electrical problem like a component suddenly not liking your instant big demand - crud in coil tower ? along to dizzy cap or acc pump in carb is worn, blockage ...

yes, you are correct ! The corner ones are different to the rest of them. Not got the side moulding part number sorry. Glad i was able to help

don't suppose that you can get part number of what they ordered ? I hada feeling the tailgate moulding clip was different to the rest of the tub moulding clips. Your title suggests tail gate, your text suggests otherwise by how I read it . I have screw grommet the name on the packet 791017130 as the part number

Ctrl V edit there is a fluid replacement method sequence air bleeding sequence _ I had better quote with new addition "1] air bleding procedure replenish the brake fluid rservoir with new recommended brake fluid [DOT3 BTW] and start bleeding air from the wheel cylinder located furthest from the master cylinder" . Here is the next bit "bleed air according to 1, 7] Reconfirmation" which is the fluid bleeding sequence 1st is at master cylinder, 2 right rear, 3 front left, 4 left rear, 5 right front If step 1 is at MC, and instruction tells you to go rear right beiing furthest away ....little wonder not everyone reads instructions !!

Well, I guess LHD & RHD are same for fluid bleed sequence - interesting. Yep, must be the sucker is so efficient, if it can't pull fluid fast enough it will pull air from around the nipple. Mate uses it and abuses it all the time. I cleaned dirty engine oil out of it before I borrowed it. Think I will take your advice and give the sucker another go with that in mind. Am thinking it is crud in the master only recoed a few years back, but may have copped something from pushing pistons back. Starting to lose this challenge. Another idea might be to try plug of the underside outlets after a bench bleed to assist with keeping air out while struggle with pipe nuts ....

Wow, noticed tsb has quoted exact same for RHD bleed sequence. I also suspect I already got cross contamination when pushing pistons back. Biut after several litres of fluid, no debris floaters no more. Further clear head reading shows there is a fluid bleed method as above, the air bleed method is - start from furhtest from master cylinder and work forward - the old school method ! One routine for fluid bleed, another for air bleed !! Lucky there is no hill holder on my , did I forget to say EA81/ Brumby/BRAT ....ever since finding gravity and a smal dia clear hose were my best friends hardly ever needed to pump pedal unless short on time. Either way - it worked until this time. I borrowed a sucker, and it is weird, finding air where there is none so suspect it needs putting away.... off to wait for old mate to show up to do some pumping ....

OK, must be changes to order of bleeding brakes between RHD and LHD markets RHD on EA81 is right rear, left front, left rear, right front in one popular aftermarket manual bit different from the old furthest from master first, then next, next and WOW , just been reading a manual that looks same as factory and is for RHD market so may need some adjustment for LHD , big but is on refreshing fluid, say to drain old from master nipples. In bold above it states to work the primary circuit first , then the secondary AND the sequence starts with a bleed of the primary nipple (rearmost)on the master, then right rear, left front ...then, if I read correctly, then bleed secondary nipple on master (most forward one) left rear, right front. I have been doing the std criss cross on all four, then maybe on the master, last 18 years never really had much trouble except on the car I am revisiting today, yesterday and Sunday .... bench bleed is likely affected by the time it takes to wrestle with the resistant pipe nut alignment Your experiences ? Ever read factory notes same way I have explained ? But maybe in LHD sequence seeing as I am a guest in here

yellow with red stripe ? yellow fades to near white or off white colour ....what year may also be a help, may not

Hmm, I found RHD EA82 clutch pedal from non turbo slipped straight on the pedal axle. The box was modified to take EA82 cable mounting though. My first conversion was using the 200mm dia clutches It was EA81 , EA81 flywheel, EA81 pressure plate, Isuzu friction plate to match the 200 mm and 5 speed DR 4WD input shaft splines to the 0.2mm EA82 clutch fork and throwout bearing - which I found some 200,000km later to be pushing on fingers about 10mm in from where it should - longer fingers on EA81 4WD clutch plate, smaller hole in middle - allowed EA81 clutch pedal and EA82 cable combo declutch, but only just, neded to hit the floor with back of pedal. Then, last year, fitted EA82 in place, EA82 fly, EA82 4WD clutch pressure plate had all sorts of troubles until I worked out EA81 spec was 16mm pull at fork, EA82 is 25mm pull at fork. Fitting an EA82 clutch pedal did the job, still needed to alter the angle of the cable bolt to pedal box support as you may nee if you extend the EA81 pedal short lever end Good luck....

I am a little lost with your combination you mention BRAT so i assume is 4WD box from an EA82 4WD EA81 flys and their pressure plates are made for a 23mm step 4WD EA82 flys and pressure plates are made for 21mm step I have run the wrong stepped pressure plate on A81, so must have been a 21mm step PP, and was just getting away with gear changes - with 4 speed 4WD boxep I thought the splines on a EA81 clutch disc and box input shaft were different to EA82, so in my mind cannot see how you made an EA81 disc in 200 or 225mm dia fit the EA82 5 speed 4WD box. In RHD, can't see how a EA81 clutch cable will work - LHD may be lucky Really need EA82 clutch pedal to get the 25mm pull at cable/fork point, EA81 pedal and EA82 cable and EA82 fork only get about 16mm may just work, may just not work

not the cat rattling inside itself ? Can also be on lite throttle, all over the range though