jono

the owner manuals have a guide for oil grade, and it takes into account of your daily temperatures. I have been using 20W50 in minus 5 to 40 C last eighteen years !

oh, and Tom cat (unfixed) pee smells better than mice pee ??

just had this vision of a field mouse cocking his leg against the inside of your air ducts

visible steering wheel lock is about a 90% deterrent for the average plick thinking of pinching your car. The above average might even come in here to read of the various no start methods to investigate - hmm, though most must know of the old push the lighter in, power up the antennae, look under dash for a switch trick - best not advertised here though. I use visible steering lock, leave glovebox open to display nothing but rubbish, barrel style dead lockable door locks ... then there is the squarker alarm

you say FWD - you mean FRont wheel drive or four wheel drive ? so , it does it only in front wheel drive, but if you select four wheel drive it behaves fine ? signed, partially confused

fuel pump may look new, but is it ? Got factory part numbers on it ? I suspect you have a spfi - throttle body fuel injection ? The efi fuel pumps don't last forever if original, can do with a tap from a hammer either before or during start attempt

EA82 5 speed four wheel drive has a top 12 o'clock possy for the clutch fork , no ? EA81 is an hour or so to one side ....

tell tale signs for a 4 speed is usually a lot of slop in stick 5th is next to 3rd on a five speed, and I often try for same position on my 4 speed and am yet to get to let the clutch out before brain cuts in Don't be fooled into thinking a 5 speed with 3.7:1 diff will do any fewer noticeable revs in top over the four speed with 3.7:1 diff it all seems to be closer ratios. tsb mentions a combo of EA82 disc, EA81 pressure plate - this needs more thought by me to work it out but EA81 4WD covers have 23mm step, EA82 use 21mm. Use full kit EA82 on, so long as flywheel off EA81 is 225mm one, the flywheel gets a 21mm step. A one piece tailshaft is a nice way not to have to add a crude or otherwise, centre bearing support for an EA82 two piece tailshaft. Also need EA82 clutch pedal, clutch cable and mod the pedal box for cable Maybe we need to run a bet on 4 or 5 speed ?

and the steering wheel, not look like my 84 made for 85 MY, more like later like 92

through the green haze, all I see is a non BRAT / Brumby dash and gauge cluster or did the US market get all that ? taking the canopy off carefully would make it look heaps better it is 30 years old and could have had a few things done to it over the years, uch as a 5 speed swap do what you like with it - it is yours - but you have a moral responsibility too mind you !

so much talk Jes ...can we see them on the BB ??

be in real trouble Tony, trying to park yer big boat in a Barina Sort of doubting a Holden colour touch up would be found in US, but that GEN1 air box looks yummy. There is a powder coat light blue if you have no momey worries

thanks tsb, was sort of thinking same ...makes my pull cord a single use cord with all the ick on it black mastic here we come !!

OK, I've had a screen and rubber refit on my Brumby before by a guy who worked for a window company, his little business on the side with dad who was an old hand at windows. They supplied and fitted a new rubber, claimed it was a dry fit ie no sealants used. It was OK until it rained. Decided not call him and his oil dripping car back, so I aded the usual black window goop to resolve the issue - mostly. Years later, new spare screen goes in - my effort this time with goop. Now, forget where goop went ? Just between glass and rubber, or rubber and body ? Still got some seepage, but saved the rate of $88 to do it myself in 20 minutes Now, been sitting on a new seal for my newer Brumby.The old seal split now 12mm at a join in top corner. The rubber seal supplier said, and checked, yep, they are a dry seal fit, no goop ! I forgot to ask if would not hurt to add goop, and mention two choices to put it. These seals have an internal gutter drainage built into them .... I sealed up the hole at top of split, water does not pass through, yet still, the split has interrupted the internal drain and leaks the waste water on my leg So, before I finally get around to fitting this new rubber on my chipped screen...what are other peoples fitting tricks as far as goop or no goop, some goop ? I remove rear view mirror, wiper arms, fit rubber to screen and use a pull cord wrapped around channel to pull seal inwards, some sili spray and done !

maybe just you and me I found a colour very close in the Holts Duplicolour Auto Spray touch up range for the replica box I made for my twins - used three original single carby boxes Doubt Oz range on offer is same as in US ...just went to shed, to find is a local manufacturer GM ..Holden colour Holden Marina Blue with a number DSH115. Surely must be able to get a paint shop make up a small tin for you ..... based on sample you take in ? Be easier if you had an EA82 - satin black

I have no experience with weber carbs once found one for sale by a forum member on another forum traveled a little to fetch it - paid 50 it sat n sat, until one day watching some turkeys fitting a weber to a bitsa effing this, and effing that - blaming their weber offered to sell mine as is, same money got 40 with rest to come then all I heard was my effing weber was a pos and was no good buyer avoided me ever since maybe not want to confront me over my pos carby or the ten bucks he still owes me how can some gang of turkeys declare a carby is pos if they not put a kit through or do said turkeys have enough experience with webers that if they display certain traits that they are beyond a kit rebuild. I think if head turkey of finance was so tight not to fix me with ten bucks coz it was a pos, probably all stupid and too tight to spring for a rebuild kit. They likely went on buying , borrowing or stealing a working carby to sort problem. Financing turkey was loaded, had lotsa nice cars, one at a time , then going through a divorce and spiralling downwards financial situation - all over a little turkeyette

Phew, got a like on my last post, so no one took offence I guess Tweety now has the option to have a standard EA81 or EA82 carb inlet manifold installed to see if any different - but maybe after a rest period I still have a weber 32/36 manual choke - [another freebie from same Holley contributor 1/4 a century later !] I am sort of tempted to fit up in the name of tinkering to see how it goes......it was jetted for a lighter 1800cc machine - MGB II which ran so sweet . If only I knew where to find said jets !! I think the larger volume of the spfi is leaning towards the old theory of inlet volume beteen throttle plate and valves is best up to same capacity as all cylinders in the name of power and efficiency. Might be difficult to keep carb fused air/fuel mix in suspension in larger volumes such as the EA82 spider manifold. My intention is to try this one day on my EA82M, going against the smaller volumes being better for propane systems The spfi might be a good compromise between larger mpfi swept volume ? is that the word ? and smaller carby inlet manifold ??. I can't see Tweety going down the spfi conversion road anytime again. Sounds like you have Tweets sorted just right now - and without a dyno shop this time . Wondering if the vac can was stuck in dyno sessions ?

OK. found him alive and seemingly well going by his contributions to another forum and have been in scant contact with him. Now, it is just a matter of feeding him reminders to drop by the post office with my stuff he has so kindly offered to act as a US export centre some five years ago when Trooper Mark scoured wrecking yards in search for disc brake rears for a few of us actually (UK and Oz! ) , likely risked injury or maim to pull said bits off when he could have been doing other things

hoses of the FICD can get hard, crack, may leak at certain times/states of load /revs etc, fast idle control device same as IAC I think. Maybe check or replace those hoses and clamps ? Great to find a ring in fuel pump was the cause of the other new troubles really need to try one fix at a time, so you can share the answer with us

i read that you did all this last bit of happy tuning yourself - what this forum stuff is all about - and shared the ins and outs as you went. i seem to recall you 'knew better' [wrong choice of words I know] than all those others that said don't go 38/38 [not sure any of them had done same proposal, just nay sayed - could get shot down from this comment too !} , too much, and then you had those with 38/38 on Datto 1200 reckoned it was fine. Which way did you go ? Same track I would have is what you did . Important thing is you tried, been there done that , and continued to share the good with the bad findings. Some would skulk off the forum a while, sneak back when interest has waned and not share failure - seen it a few times i once did a 465 4 barrel vac secondary holley onto an enlarged manifold, on an engine that basically got a single barrel, that got an upgrade to two barrel. I knew no better, someone put the idea in my head, suggested a 390 would be better choice, there was no 'net in 86 thank goodness and I scored the 465 for free I later found I had my doubters thinking i was using a bucket to pour petrol into its 250 ci. The 230 primaries got nice and lean, and secondaries a lil bit richer, read the Holley books of the day, made more discoveries than ever disclosed in print about vac diaphragm springs. Got great power when asked of it, great economy when asked of it .... 30 miles per 4.546 litres at 70 mph touring speed, watching vacuum gauge .. hang on ... I struggle to get that from my 4 pot rice burners ..NA or turbo !! .... WTF am I doing here ??? SLAP , should migrate to a ford forum !! Near 30 years later, still got car and engine, still got Holley hoarded somewhere too - should put it all back together to see how it goes on modern fuels !! One day . Tony, top marks for sharing , but, now, just because a manifold holds more volume than another, I don't see it needs bigger jets to give it more fuel, just has more mixed air fuel at the ready for call on the valves, may just take more time for volume to fill. Get me thinking on this - ? Also note your 13 degrees, any more and got a coarseness. I have got that coarseness in sound and power only @ 16 DBTDC @ 800rpm idle, vac plugged for tuning, my economy has improved ..the 540km per 65 litres dropped to 500 or so @ 6 DBTDC, and now stretched the 65 litres to 600 km with some special low speed 4WD bush driving, snow ploughing etc !

hmmm, and many years ago when I got my first Sube, asked of my trusted, aging , race caring machine shop guy - felt EA81 valves were big by some standards and they would be good enough ??? Wonder what the compromise is when going bigger valves ?

spins ccw from memory 1 3 front pots, 2, 4 rear pots #1 is that one so ...as pressure builds up at #1 - use finger or comp tester blow up a rubber glove ? ..and you find #1 at TDC ...where in cap is rotor button pointing ? at #1 lead terminal ?

did you refill it after the steam event to do a little investigation for how it then ran, where leaks were, steam out tail pipe or in engine bay ? Or just tear into the rebuild ? There are so many hoses and pipes on these turbos to deal with that should hold coolant for 25 years, then need renewal. It might have been the intake man to head gaskets that let go and dribbled into intake ports - seen that few times, and another time, suspect it was the turbo as when I fitted up serviced heads, genuine gaskets - still a steam engine ! Then I ran a sealwel cube - fixed it next 80,000 km at least

Hmm, I take that back Reading in here http://www.recreationalflying.com/threads/subaru-ea81-conversion.8488/ the guys have the poor little EA81's flying at some higher revs than torque figure some nice home truths, some comment on the EA81S described as a rally engine ... enjoy

bumping this post because I found it, and the guy says he has SUB4 heads on it !! Where is this guy / car today ??