jono

good bit of info to chew on there Lucas. Sort of makes sense to have the engine cruise at its torquiest rev for fuel efficiency, longevity, reliability etc

monitor the pressure after the filter, come back and tell us how it behaves when operates nice and naughty

I fell for that one too, in when buying a ball joint, expecting it to come assembled like every other time ! Can't say I have tried for how stiff the buggers were compared to each other or any others Mine did not come with grease pack at all - so to make a saving we buy a component that needs some basic assembly and correct grease might explain why I am yet to fit up, my grease in gun has started to fall out of suspension - or rather the oil has started to fall out the soap or clay base stuff we call grease. Reminds me, I have a split BJ boot needs attention.

I read that someone asked for the part number of the dizzy which may help - don't yet see it in text, maybe in pics ? Anyone notice the direction of rotation on the top of the two caps when pictured side by side ? Not that it matters a lot, but one is counter, the other clock ! Time to do a distributorless , multi coiled ignition !!

time to dredge this one up for the next generation to read

don't despair, there is quite a few things that could be the cause. My immediate guess is same as mine was after sitting for years you get gas, you get pressure, but is it enough. My fuel pump was shot and would not keep pressure up just as it was really needed. I ran a T piece in after the fuel filter. The mecjhanical fuel oil pressure gauge was taped to screen, gave the required 36 psi reading at idle and all the while stationary revvingup and down the range, then, out on street just as get going, engine died in the RRRR's and the fuel pressure dropped to 10 psi and would only idel, rev again on the spot You may wanna empty old fuel, tank could be barnacle clad inside after all that time. Can inspect the insides via the sender unit on tank top. If a new pump goes in, best to have a clean ank and fresh fuel, new fuel filter for long life, and no warranty if not cleaned. Another issue could be if the fuel pressure regualtor at the end of the fuel rail with a vac can on it - might be shot too, letting all the pressure off ??

add that a carb EA82 generally runs the 23 spline front shaft stubs, a fuel injected or at least mpfi and turbo A82s ran 25 splines. Yours likely runs 23 splines. Before replacing box or CVs count the splines

make sure you get the adaptor to suit the EA81 plug hole before you buy whole thing, can they sell you an adaptor , and I sel you mine half the price if I can find it ? is virgin

Had similar no blow any weed, but idled fine, drove fine, powered fine until up a steep run turned me into JB007 smoke screen. Suspect that the later found 60 psi in one pot 120 in all others - EA82T heads off, bore looked a bit roughed up in that low cylinder suspect it was blow by - cylinder combustion pressure getting past maybe not worn rings, maybe stuck gunked up rings, into sump chamber, presurising it to escape up and out the rear breather the efi blocks have, as I was going up steep slope - easy path for it to then smother my air intake. Time and time again, clear up oil burning and would run smoothest , quietest, hardest pulling EA82T ever had. Still sits in shed, heads off needing further investigation .....seven years now ...

then there is this ebay listing http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-89-Subaru-Brat-DL-GL-GL10-RX-Standard-XT-Semi-Metallic-Pads-Bendix-D291-New-/291410025847?hash=item43d9641d77&vxp=mtr raises a few eyebrows - D291 fit BRATS , later EA81 and XT and RX surely listing applications are not correct ? The D291 is typical of EA81 front pads but anything with EA82, pads are about an inch longer - and they won't be responsible if pads don't fit - check the app charts !!

going by the photo it looks like an EA82 throw out bearing. I have pulled a fork from an EA82 FWD and found to be same as a EA82 4WD fork. Even though you have an EA81, I think the gearbox and clutch and clutch fork are likely still EA82 parts. Earlier EA81 forks were a greenie blue colour , same as rocker covers, then later forks for EA81 were black, but same shape as the blue. All EA82 forks I have seen have been black, different shape to EA81 I have seen

stock would be a choice of diff ratios 3.7 or 3.9:1 and whether was the 3 speed auto, 4 speed auto or maybe even the choice of manuals PT 4WD or AWD may have had differnt top gear ratio ? Reckon 3000 is about what most of mine have done at 60 mph so your engine is probably close matched to what runs in the Subes. They seem to be most fuel efficient around the torque peak of about 2600, 2700 ?

where's Tweety ? If birds had enough saliva to begin with he'd be salivating at the idea of another member in here with a trike and EA82 ! not sure original Tweety birds gender, and if the trike is regarded as same ??? To better identify the EA82, start with if it is carb or efi. Efi could be single point or multi point(twin port heads) and still flapper mass air flow or hot wire ... casting marks on heads can be EA82 plain, or EA82 with an underline or [EA82] in a box casting marks in the block side ? can indicate a month and year cast , from memory oh , yeah - PHOTOS please

ah, thanks guys. Not want to sound like a financial meanie in this exercise either. I had a great contact that would forward stuff from US sources and I got some Bendix pads that were the best, so was hoping for same. The boxes were blue and green and wondering if I got same box, would I get same quality pads - or if that is just typical of the US Bendix arm and all grades of pad come in same packaging ? Here is a sample of typical Australian Bendix packaging - mind you, this set of pads contains 45% white asbestos and not to be sold (at least at retail level, not sure privately ?) and the 2003 catalogue that gives us US style numbers to refer to I know, if I get one last set, that will be the last.... Brake pads are like tyres when talking to anyone that sells them. Sales staff either use them, be tyres or pads, in their own cars, good in the wet (tyres) last well, wear well, grip and bite - until I buy them to find no different to the last different brand, type product I tried. All that changed when started buying quality stuff from the US - except the accelerator cable from Rock - ferrule too big for the 12mm square hole in firewall, and still reducing diameter of the pedal end Think I also priced postage from Rock to the west coast in US - $23 for a box of pads ?! Buy quality, hang the cos, but if sent same crap I can buy locally for same all up cost from afar - really cant return product either way

just wondering if it is worth buying any of the front disc brake pads on Rockautos stock at the moment ? D291 is same as our DB426 to suit the venbted EA81 rotors Postage out to Oz is now a killer - turns two sets of sub US$8 to A$82 landed ! A$42 postage for one set, about another $28 for second set added to the buy Can get ordinary pads here for A$35 to good names about the A$80 The price of rotors on ebay here are cheaper than 'trade' discount prices from trade suppliers ! I priced A$13 ea disc rotor , pair from Rock to Oz - add A$140 postage :cringe: I wish Rock would us the USPS flat rate boxes they were a better deal in the past Seen another set on ebay I would not mind US$50 posted, our dollar is worth 74 pennies, farcry from few years ago when it maxxed out, we got 110 pennies worth for a dollar ! Any brand recommendations for a good bitey pad ?

I have one and never used it - too chicken to hang on in the engine bay while it is being driven sudden flashback to the early 80's

coil pack normally means more than one coil for the engine. What sort of ignition you got ? check al your earth connections, battery terminal posts, clean 'em all with sand paper stuff, retighten.

bratman - good to read corrected mpg figs - so a true reading The EDIS system could be quite OK with carby, no need to go fuel injection as well, until tempted Some dudes were using a US Ford module with their EDIS set ups rather than an aftermarket DIY kit. Be nice though if a stupid iphone could be apped to program the ignition curve so if suddenly something drops out, plug phone in, or find a wunder kid, complete with phone and ability and be back on the road .. hang programming via phone ... an app in a phone to run it would be great use for old iphones !!

yes ! but, tell us what it is doing you are chasing, and tell what it does when you bypass it. I think some sort of potentiometer device would be handy for this sort of diagnosis. Find out range of CTS, get a few, dunno say 10 different resistors of the range values and switch between them in order to see if baby runs better at any particular value - like you tell the ECU a known resistance and see what it does to the running. Maybe an old fuel gauge sender unit could be similar range needed to be read from ECU, connect up and run with a diagnostic person operating it - or a slot car trigger to provide the variable ??

you should be able to start any old carby engine without a fuel pump - so long as fuel in the carby bowl is at the correct level. It should be able to start, run and accelerate for a small time before fuel runs through and depletes. IF it was efi, can still start without the pump operating, so long as the line pressure remains from last operating moment, and then as pressure drops off engine will falter and cut out. When you say in first post that engine would not stop when switched off - you don't say how many revs it was idling at - incorrect speed , like info, can produce bum steers

633 574 before I forget according to online sources our sube standard 175.70 13 has a nominal overall tyre diameter of 574mm, and 185.70-14 is 633 , oh and 75 aspect ratio different again - all messes with fuel economy readings. I know how to fix the convert proponents ! - fit EJ20 pistons and see how that stacks up in the old EA's The EA's only have 8 valves total, but then again, so do the EA81S, EA 82 has same valve config as EA81S but don't rev like one ! There is something to the old EA81S and the 120 HP flyboys units - bet they lack torque and would not drive wheels real well !! But then, the SUB4 guys in NZ told me they ran their heads and roller rockers in their dark blue work ute !! The old EA's are good old donks, otherwise we would not be wasting our time 30 years after they were designed and made ! I get your point Tony !

I think what you get with factory stuff is a compromise between performance/ fuel economy and longevity. Start to alter the engine and you alter the factory products performance, economy and longevity. Just sent an RS Liberty on its way to the UK. 1992 unmolested bog stock factory everything - 454,000km on it. The turbo did not kill this one - inattentive to water pump needs or just a water pump not meant to last so long likely the demise of the EJ20G I doubt anyone gets the same distance from a rebuild as can be achieved from factory fresh built engine of our EA era. My rebuilds never need a crank grind, just a linish. Actually, never really need a rebore and new pistons but I am just like that.. So far, my $1000 rebuild has got me 65,000 (hard) km (sometimes). Buy a new car, drive it that far and see if car devalues less than $1001 I wonder if Tweety went down a road of a new after market efi system whether would make much gain ? Rather than try make a well used spfi system work. Be time Tony you got an old Brumby you could tiker with... call it a development vehicle. Bet you did not add the $100 worth of ebay valve springs to your build ? I have considered same 4 an EA81 after the crispness I got from new genuines in my EA82T. A three speed slush box could also be Tweets downfall

I worry about mild steel welch plugs in side of turbo and whether they ever rust through ..... hmm, cracks in turbo, turbo has water in it, one of my turbos gets white creeping tide marks on the outside. I fear it is a water leak of some kind .... like lime creep on brick work !

OUCH !! Whassat in my arse ? oh , it's a splinter Hell, I want an EJ everytime my underpowered little EA NA;s sort of make life hard for them selves hauling up hills. Sometimes needa bumper sticker - one cam and just eight valves - true ! Man, are all EJ's 16 valves ? To EJ an EA body, you really need a donor to get everything as i see it. Exhaust ..er may as well do the AWD transmission at same time to avoid adaptor plates and other stuffing about I considered EA82T and went that way - no real conversion going on just yet, but compared EJ22 torque figures very much same as our EA82T . Hang HP readings, they are up too high in a little used rev range. If you go EJ from most EA's, need to deal with fuel delivery to suit the new fuel injection. Oh, yeah Tweety aint got a tailshaft either to thought about .... EJ's are sweet multi valve hydraulic liftered more than three main bearing pieces of late eighties engineering. I have done a rebuild of an EA 81 and got 180,000km of revving out of it before the cranks signs of uncontrolability by the centre main bearing began to show - still screamed, just a little more violently and block would have needed line boring, so too the oil pump housing ? I have 65,000km on my last rebore build and not sure I am going to tolerate it too much longer - I have also built a reco liftered EA82 twin port and it is stronger in torque dept, better economy and quieter. Also just changed timing belt before I stored it away - and I miss it. Who with an EJ conversion does not miss buying dizzy caps, rotors, the odd module, or fear a dizzy even just wearing out ??!! I know of a Brumby that got EJ20 turbo, then just settled for EJ20 due to it being a well mannered and quick car to drive without the over powering turbo plant. Gave very respectable travel times. Like many EJ converteds still would not pass the authorities, something went wrong and now sits a bit stranded in a paddock - no engine I still wanna do an EJ Brumby one day before too long, but still have EA82T to complete and see how it goes in a body lighter than my GLTA I think I want the challenge to make things fit and work. Somewhere too would like to do an EDIS on an old EA just to see how much better it can be, just with weakness of software and module from something else

sort of explains the lack of people rushing to respond I thought I heard the US even missed out on the first WRX That "hide things in the wheel well empty space" went a little far with a Dodge convertible we got here - no room under bonnet either end, so a special side terminaled battery went in where Subie hides compressors and water pumps. Youtube saved the day on that one !!