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jono

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Everything posted by jono

  1. jono
    Thanks Fairtax4me - have you done this bfore or just guessing ? Pretty good guess. No pics. Removed wheel, removed push clips, removed a few 10mm head with Philips head screws - out comes the inner guard liner and there we have a water pump held in by two 10mm head long bolts and bracket with maybe 12mm nut sits low side inside of the chassis - undone enine side. yep, and front bumper needs come off a bit to undo a bolt securing the water radiator coler device, so char can out with two tens, two 17s under it on RHS, easy access on LHS for two more 17's. LHS front guard very edge near arch had 1 10mm bolt screw going up from bumper to guard, and another from bumper foward into front trim metal piece above bumper. Two 12's holding WAIC radiator in place, sits in two rubber insulated pins in holes in car. Out The top tank was a bitch - just tight fit on turbo to cooler pipes - hard plastic, clamped. Is all out including the resistor gadget on mount strut tower RHS. Now, just gotta find space until I find time to install it on car stillwaiting for turbo gear !! thanks again
  2. jono
    thought of this post yesterday when starting a , or rather Willys new 78 Brumby. Here I am cranking away, trying to start the old girl...can't hear the fuel pump rattle away, poured some two stroke fuel down carb throat..good battery and know engine sounds right just won't run or fire - until, I noticed, it was running when I backed switch off th starter position to rest in IGN ON position far is this normal for GEN1's ? asks he in a GEN2 section !!
  3. jono
    must be the week for bad brakes I was so busy juggling the revs, an engine trying to die ( only been started a third time since 2007) the clutch, the icky steering wheel, hairy horse blanket seat covers (scratch, scratch now) , steering clear of a Hills Hoist, turn around a blind corner of house and garden ...and go to stop facing up hill, the 4/78 Brumby started heading towards a pair of closed garage doors, hand braked sort of concealed by hairy horse clothing saved the day. Think it solves the mystery of how one brake light lens got broke before !
  4. jono
    does not have to be subie sourced sheet metal either. Guys working with old vintage cars have been known to borrow curves n shapes off modern vehicles to achieve original lines on old cars. Once saw a thread on a young guy in Australia doing just that on a more modern car - just had an eye for the shapes - a real talent to finish what he started !
  5. jono
    I certainly hope you get a pack of little jets instead of a back pack jet pack Tony, you tweeted off just after saying "it was much more powerful" ...I was expecting times for the new 0 to 120 compared to the old ! With your manufacturing abilities and ability to adapt from one thing to another without any indication you could be a fuss pot .any chance you can make up an air filter case that sits directly over the carb throat and sit flat like a wrecked angle panel filter or round pancake like Toyota Corolla ? Almost a flat funnel shaped mounting ? The ever resourceful Jes to the rescue once agan
  6. jono
    after running or try to run 9 year old fuel, ran successfully on fresh, but let sit, whatever tar n gunk from either oil or fuel, two rear most cylinders copped stale fuel smelling black shiny sticky gunk on the valve guides and bent two push rods requiring both heads off ...blah blah. All I can suggest is you try turning engine over by hand next few restarts to ensure nothing has disolved in the tank, like barnacles inside and acrried through to rest of fuel system and hit your valves like mine did !
  7. jono
    mechanical oil pressure gauge usualy refers to a gauge that runs the oil pressure in a capillary tube right up to the gauge in the car or where you mount it taper thrads come to mind - dunno if Japanese engineering uses th standard 1/8" taper of pipe threads or is it bspt ? one is 27 threads per inch, another is 28 tpi and sort of works both ways if lucky if you intend to keep idiot light in dash working, you need to retain its sender and tap into same for capillary line to gauge, so you'd need a T piece or see if anyone thinks yu can tap off a different plug hole in pump - think you can run both switch and gauge off the EA82
  8. jono
    you have flapper maf - correct ? hows it drive once warmed and idling correctly - you mean it only idles poorly when not at op temp ? There is a bit to do with the cold engine idle air bypass system on the top of the 85.86 thermostat housing, if you wanted to be an investigator and completely bypass its in hose and its out hose that links to inlet man chamber and put in a 1/2" irrigation tap that you can control yourself on a hose as long as you like for experimental purposes. If that is stuck shut it won;t give it the air bypass the throttle that it wants to speed up idel at cold.
  9. jono
    just plug it for the meanwhile and see how things are ?
  10. jono
    just why is this ? I know some other makes coils coil brackt has a bit on it to grip on to the coil body - likely earthing connection, but never see a coil with an earthing terminal, never see mention, and the electrical diagrams never show the body of the coil to earth do they ? I have just once or twice been able to fix a non starter by ensuring coil is earthed, and numerous times seen others running an engine with a coil just hooked up and not earthed at all - usually in a diagnostic exercise for a non starter
  11. jono
    i note your pic is of the quart or one litre bottles, not the cheapest way to buy stuff here. You must know a garage that will fill a container for you from their bulk at a better price surely... or send your wife purely for the girls can get better attention aspect !
  12. jono
    OK, don't even know if the US got turbo Legacy , so may be calling on other markets. I am gonna be under pressure in a tight and remote work location to remove the factory water pump from the donor - an RS Liberty and after simplified tips on just best way to remove it. I know where it is - underneath the battery, not in the engine bay itself, and more forward of the space it occupies. Is there only one way to do it ? Thinking jack, wheel off, liner off, red backs should be sleepy, and get up in there OR is it remove headlight and do some keyhole surgery ? Or lay under the front and reach up, probably remove liner here too ? Any tips to remove this baby would be appreciated
  13. jono
    that is some odd event to happen Jes I'm not sure if you will be able to separate the water as easily as suggested. I have found that fresh engine oil when water has trickled in via a welch plug - the water was on the bottom, so came out first as the drain plug was pulled. With an engine running to op temp, I think the heat and pressure causes the buttermilk mix so may be no water sepeartion going on at an easier level. At the skint level of finances, I would be trying to drain contents , then fill with plain engine oil as a flush .....been many manual gearboxes without diffs that have run with engine oil or even auto trans fluid ( I know..ATF ! ) Do you need a few of us to go around to 'talk' to the perp ?
  14. jono
    or if it does need repairs will be dealer done for a warranty period.
  15. jono
    well, I started to replace my original equipment accelerator cable with one I got from between a rock and a hard place, without naming source directly . The square hole in the firewall is, well, if a 12mm drill bit fits perfect, hole must be 12mm x 12mm. The plastic lump was made by someone using half inch as the rough guide at about 13mm x12mm. Just not gonna fit until a file got to work. The ends crimped onto cable was also crude, the excess material stressed out from the pressing, well, remained as a lump so not to fit the round hole of the acc pedal, so been down there with a file. Already ground the carb end on the grinder, but thought other end fitted my sample hole OK. I am expecting my other US spares soon, will grind them both to fit as soon as they arrive from thier little vacation plot on the Tsunami coast. LHD cables are about 100mm longer than RHD, little extra appreciated, so too the price difference from Aus genuine to US aftermarket 6:1 price ratio
  16. jono
    old school ( no reservoir/overflow container ) rad caps just had the rubber washer that sealed against the flat of the rad neck. If you look at your cap and it has and extra rubber seal that sort of seals with the sides of the rad neck as well is a recovery style cap. Sometimes the aftermarket caps are embossed with recovery. Oh, simple too, if a cap not hold pressure, rads can get hot. Don't worry about having to do your own HGs again unless you got water oil contamination or pressure erupting from relatively cool raiator, bubbles in side
  17. jono
    think I answered same question here last few days... I have an 84 ute running everything from and including radiator to rear diff No rail cutting, just elongated the engine cross members holes to accept the EA82 engine mounts. Made simple flat bar plates mounted to floor under seats to take the two piece tailshaft centre bearing also modified pedal box to take EA82 cable, and finally the EA82 clutch pedal to avoid modifying EA81 pedal box, take the EA82 pedal box, cut the back end off to add about 27mm to it to fit EA81 structure play with acc cables etc and you are laughing seats, fuel pump, fuses and globes. Nothing else really just fits, but I also made EA82 front struts fit between EA81 front hubs and tower - gain 1/2" Oh, EA82 y pipe exhaust will near enough bolt up, gave me another 10 kph in third of four gears
  18. jono
    would trying outside the square go as far as fitting an O2 sensor and gauge so you get a constant idea of how economy could be going ?
  19. jono
    so, what makes you say you even have a computer then ? feedback would be running an O2 sensor in the exhaust system somewhere ?
  20. jono
    new genuine clutch cable, lubed up acc pedal pivot shaft, brake pedal swing bits with Lanotec - now pedal soft as and the EA81 Brumby drivs like a new one !
  21. jono
    word is that if there is no input from O2 sensor the CU will richen up the mixture for a safety point of view. Rich things up should have more a cooling effect on combustion as far as gasoline goes. You can monitor the output of the O2 sensor with a multimeter in the range between 0 and 1 Volt. Get someone to monitor the output while you drive about ?
  22. jono
    he means metal tank rads no better than plastic tanked rads - watch for the edit recovery rad caps say so, and have an extra rubber seal to ensure as everything cools down to ambient, any coolant that expanded out to reservoir will suck back into rad and stay sealed. Air leaks in system may cause this not to happen as efficiently. Genuine from Subaru, thermostats have the factory size hole for water flow, after market have smaller, unles you order or specify a higher flow thermostat costs more, but same size as genuine. And, if you have not had the innards of the cores cleaned out you could be wasting yours and our time and words. A semi blocked to blocked heater circuit can also cause overheating issues, unless there is some bypass between those two hoses entering the firewall in anything beyond EA81 that had heater taps and bypasses I think © on jono's bs
  23. jono
    It sounds like your gauge is reading correctly so no need to change in a new sender just yet. Does it run cooler at night ( I am assuming the nights are cooler ) I got same with my EA82 running in my EA81 Brumby, hotter the ambient, the hotter it reads on the gauge, and higher speeds on the highway does nothing for cooling things down. I ran an AC condensor in front of the radiator and hooked into the heater hose circuit. Even though it increased my water capacity, did zip to help with cooling. Nearly turned a spare bonnet into a ventilated summer unit as above in Uberoos post. Heat radiates in any direction, but hot air rises btw. Cold can radiate too - usually in my direction in cold season now. I also ran 180mm driving lights blocking some air flow up front. Removing them did zip again once warmed up highway speeds. I had both twin core EA81 radiator and single core EA82 radiator - really got no difference ?? Next trick will be water spray on rad cores m thinks ! It all kept me busy until autumn anyway . 70% was probably as far as it went on the gauge anyway - figured it was just gonna run hotter but not fatally hotter
  24. jono
    Glad you started using part numbers as well ! I reckon next post you will be telling people you have an EA82 spfi 88 GL wagon. The other option is the multipoint fuelie with a pair of injectors mounted each end on the twin tube inlet manifold atop twin intake port mpfi heads. Yours must look just like a single tube, single port manifold and head combo. I have always associated clip on disty caps with carby , and screw held down caps with mpfi, NA & turbo. I am assuming your spfi distributor is a screw down. Not seen a carby distributor work with efi, but the 4 wires looks hopeful - what's it look like under the cap ? Guys in here have a lot of experience, and a lot of time to help collectively, sounds like you are gonna get there .....am reading on .....
  25. jono
    have you owned it for long? Given it all its service interval needs ? Two basic things to test when it won't start. Easiest is to spray a proprietary starting stuff down its air intake and have someone turn the starter heading any safety directions starter stuff warns of. If it runs for a short moment - fuel supply or pressure is the next avenue to go down. A slap on the fuel pump at rear under right hand side with a hammer may jolt it to life for a moment ... No change? Test for spark with a plug body grounded to engine or body attached to a cap lead ensure nothing flammabel about an turn over starter. spark ? yes or no and you aren't really wasting money on serviceable items, just won't need to blame or buy in near future.
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