jono

well......? where is Willy with his trophy winning GEN1 ??

i can't ever recall anyone getting resolution by chasing a code 1-2 ... I wonder if a relay added in to take the heavier power transfer job of th ignition switch's electricals might get rid of that code ? Have you seen tha factory manuals code 1.2 chase up flow chart ?? 4 times should be enough ....so, when #1 is on TDC, the rotor button points more towards the firewall not towards the radiator ?

i wonder if you are barking up the wrong tree when you provide some other sort of fuel to the system, you are not just squirting it at same time injectors would be, you are just misting it or flooding it in - available all the time. If you swear you did the belts right - how is the compression? Do comp test first to confirm all is fine there You geting the engine to fire may still be dizzy out, belts out .....

when the mechanic does not want to do the bearings. Did this myself when I was quoted A$175 just for one side rear wheel bearing kit trade price for my 84 Brumby ! A$50 bought me a used hub to bolt to my blade arm, shove my axle in and bolt up my brakes and shock to. Got more than 100,000km further down the road. Baring started to make a noise, I recoed a spare hub with rockauto bearing $20 + postage via Grayland, hub needs tighting up and I am ready A loose hub nut can be first sign of bearings going bad. My EA82 did that, made intermittent sqik sqik noise, found loose nut, tightened up asked self why , strip down found shot bearing, though quiet ! I think your hub splines may be damaged from play given by shot bearings, whch is why mechanic needs new hub and probably trying to look after your wallet, saving on parts and labour

my latst oil pressure gauge for EA81, the sender came with an earthing terminal as well as the to gauge terminal to ensure good earthing for any application I suppose.. I think I also got same function as you with a gauge due to the poorly marked back case - I hooked up wires incorrectly. I think a T looked like the earth symbol ?? Rejigged works fine now

for a change, someone elses writing confuses me....Tony, are you saying you continued to delete the little brass? cylindrical "spacers" and stuck the module in directly on the plate with the gunk heatsink stuff? Don't recall you telling us you were looking for a miss either ?? Interesting to note if the OEM module came with heatsink goo, for there ain't none in original fittings with spacers. These modules are used in a wide variety of makes and models and not just Subie EA specific On the more than one ground electrode plugs - surprised to see them make a return for cars - thought they were debunked in the early eighties ? I recall Golden Lodge were the four 'trode brand to be desired. Be nice to try something like that on a dyno

we have now...someone twiddled your moustache bar...or if you fit the handbrake to the rears using ouch ! Honda components whats gone on ? pics ?

all that text coxy and you didn't tell us what your Brumby runs, or ran in the ignition department - came via Italy ? Externally heatsunked marinelli ignition module ?? Hail coxy !! What coxy says about opening up the gap on plugs, increases load on coil - module too ? dunno ? I recall when the big thing was to open up the gaps to make the EA81 go better , feel crisper. I also recall how much better mine went after I regapped again down to 0.8mm The more comp Tweety has got, a smaller gap may be better ! I run higher... I ran higher comp and propane 7.7:1 @ 12 psi boost and ran 0.6mm plug gaps on a colder plug BCP7ES the C is the 5/8" plug socket type 14mm seat - allows better socket outer clearance on EA82 mpfi head castings.

A points dizzy when factory, its coil gets about 9V via the ceramic insulated resistor that gets 12V on its in side, spits out about the 8 or 9V other side. A dizzy with a module - its coil gets the full 12V. So, if the dude who fitted in the points dizzy in place of an ignition moduled dizzy (what you mean by mechanical ?) did not add the resistor to drop the volts to the coil may find the points contacts ash up - yellow in my case. I used to carry a little wet n dry sand paper to run through the points to get me rippin' again. I ended up running a second resistor across the coil power supply to keep points clean. Was a points car anyway, dunno what was wrong. Hope you still have the electronic modulked dizzy - a new ACA branded module be about $100 from most parts stores in Oz And, coils are marked to be used with electronic ignition or the like. Coils likely should be changed to suit the dizzy too !

the switch conatcts in the back of the starter/ ign switch may be dirty/dodgy after all thius time, causing intermittent stuff. Also found it is good to actually clean all battery clamps, cables, not just inspect, tighten things up and fit the relay. A nice trick on relay fit is to swipe the black/white wire to starter solenoid from a wreck so you can use its locking style female spade terminal on solenoid end, add a spade for the relay male - retain correct wire spec from relay to solenoid, same wire colour and trace. Never rebuilt a Sube starter in 17 years...touching some wood right about now

I;m not. Never seen an spfi in Oz. Had similar familial experience here with carbed EA82, rebuilt and still smoker until something else was a sorted.

your mechanic would not be the first to fall for the thing that can happen to EA82 carbed to blow smoke coz it is sucking it from somewhere, to then suggest a rering, then discover is same upon rebuild because some vacuum? hose has come off or blocked up. I am sure it is not just the PCV air filter mesh in the air box that is the cause. Certain it is in the myriad of pollution hoses that is the fix. My bet is the old girl would pass a comp test and a cylinder leakage test...and now you say is only on sweeping turns ?? How hard does it go ?? Hang on, what is a transmission in US English ? I can't believe a stick shift manual box of gears would need a rebuild in such a short drive distance, so must be the three speed automatic self shifter that may have needed a rebuild due to all internal rubber seals turning hard ?? If it is an automatic, they also have an actuator on the right hand side, screwed in just above the pan line, more front end on the side - vac line goes to inlet manifold to supply manifold vacuum to aid shift patterns. If the diafragem in the solenoidy thing breaks, auto trans fluid will suck up into intake and get burnt in combustion causing smoke ......

aha, join another club ! I too was puzzled to find no plug in flasher/relay unit in my 85/86. The flashing happens within that combo switch. After all my diagnosing I found my problem - it was caused by a fusible link breaking contact/ making contact - a fractured fuse, working then not working, caused spike in Volts, blew my bulbs in use at the time - hazards. All six bulbs were killed. As I replaced the bulbs one by one, the buzz I got, slowly evolved to a fast tick to correct speed tick when all bulbs were replaced. So, do you hear a constant buzz when trying to make indicator bulbs work ? You'd have same problem as me - dud bulbs. No, you say works when in high beam position. Likely something in your switch. Lucky for you - I have two for sale. If interested we need to compare wiring and ensure RHD is same as LHD

Man, someone else that hates this EA81 PS set up ! It looks more like something from early 1960's, English, when PS was a 500 pound option on a 2000 pound car - explains why I saw no value in a set-up and tossed it, later to be astounded people pay hundreds for a leaky old thing, more hundreds to reco them !! Be real keen to see your A82 adaptation to an EA81 Coxy

US sourced *Polariser perhaps ? Oh, that had no wires at all did it ? * performance enhancer of the 1987's top touring car race winner

disregard the comment re a torsion bar on rear for spring body hold up function as the torsion bar went out with the new model you have, Coil springs mounted within the rear shock form a sort of strut arrangement. Very little tension in those rear springs is released when they are undone by top nut. Rear struts have three 17mm headed bolts to remove completely from a jacked up car. No need to even remove wheel. Care needs be taken to ensure bolt threads are clean and oiled and threaded back into threads in captive nuts before the final fit to make sure no stripped threads happen - so a little extra time needs be taken. No rattle guns either. To avoid stripped threads I also do top pair up by hand first with low eyelet dangling in place, then wrestle the lower bolt to thread up. Very little effort is required to decompress rear coil springs to swap the shocks. All up maybe an hour, maybe 30 mins for both if on the ball. I agree, an hour per side at the front so long as no dramas like broken or stripped stuff occurs. Genuine front coils are also marked in coded colours to ensure the correct spring goes to the correct side - likeluy blue dot and white dot on your beast - should be on drivers side, blue and yellow on passenger side. Award the job to the shop that knows this !!.

never hear of anyone using a shielded wire for their efi conversions - must just be a factory precautionary measure. You should be fine for a test run anyway. Sounds like you should use the VW separator thing and just hook up its own charcoal canister to work with the Sube engine. I think if you trace the distributor vac advance/boost retard line back from dizzy to throttle body, you will find two tube fittings at the crank pulley side of throttle body. The dizzy connection is the one same side as dizzy, the turbo side goes elsewhere. I think then there is a T piece on dizzy vac port on TB that then goes to the vac port on charcoal canister, so it open up in higher vacuum conditions....

welcome to the club then! I have got to exact same stage and armed self with a drill and bit, drilled out crooked, destroyed manifold at same time - from an aesthetic point of view Surely if you have the other five out you can push n shove to git some movement going and see if it gives ? The shaft of the bolt seizes up in the alloy of the manifold. If you can rescue some of it, use shaft to turn what is now a stud out and save thread if Fuji is on your side. Engine in car I take it ?

these differences have me thinking....wouldn't you think that the Japanese would keep the best, most efficient, up-to-date with development heads for their own market? I wonder if EDM use standard flat top or not so dished pistons given the extension of space in the roof of the EDM head ?

i misread your issue. earth switching is where pos power goes direct to unit, but unit does not operate until it sees an earth neg connection which is thru the switch. can accidentally provide an earth to some part of these earthswitched circuits and things turn on. You need to check see with a test light if power and earth is getting to rear plug. Don't earth the test lead on body - use earth side of light plug and pos from light plug, see if you can operate test light via light switch. An urgnt fix for no supply would be off other headlight with relay etc

i wonder if it is a head valve sticking and freeing up once warmed ? fuel and oil replaced before starting after ten years ? do a comp test while it is backfiring see if something reveals ?

yeah , but we love ya !

may help if you put up a pic of the back of each of the four lights. switching uses earth switching. add in the one wrong design and earth leaks when it is not needed - gives all four on high beam with switch only on low beam. I found this problem on mine was due to the inners high beams were not sealed beams no more. Some dude fitted units with earthing metal bodies to take replaceable bulbs for great high beams, never checked his work, never failed numerous rego inspections. I spent frantic 24hours chasing problem. Use sealed beams in place and see if that fixes things

I am sure you asked opinion of whoever did the last work on this issue - what did they have to say? Is it hard to shift the stick into and out of each gear ? does the difficulty you have add crunch to gear shifting ? Shifting up a number or down a number ? syncromesh is between all forward gears in these babies. Not believe first has synchro down from second by the way it feels, but certain it does. I think synchro is explained as - if you don't have synchro rings between the gears you need to drive as if an old WW2 army truck or car, double clutching between each and every gear ? Clutch pedal in, select neutral, clutch out, clutch in , select nex desired gear (if you still have same momentum did just a second ago ) pieces ? as in chunks of teeth or synchro ring ? or slivers of stuff. Won't be synchro, as they are brass, and no sticky to magnet

just found a reference card I made up for what I used - and yeah, like skishop says if you start low and blow - could be stranded if no spares also ! go up in 5 or ten Amps I think the key is that the genuines are not rated to the current colour coding ! They came with 0.85mm sq, 1.25mm sq grading etc. So, then someone on ausub tested things from size not colour I recorded for black cloth type use 40A GREEN FFL green cloth use 20A which is light blue or WHITE ? FFL red cloth used light blue 25A or 30A pink FFL check the numbers on FFLs you buy, think some makers used white instead of light blue !!