jono

anyone know of the differences of the EA82T pistons described in thread title? rumoured to be two different ones for the turbos The one below is from what I scored from an engine that had spider manifold - when i got it. Said to be the best ever EA82T before it burst a hose, spat steam - but did not get hot, or was shut down on first sight of steam anyway. I have pulled pistons with idea of rough mock up EA81 using these and maybe new rings, maybe not, if new rings, may as well be new slugs on a rebore .....may as well hock a testicle as well ..... oh, looky here the shorter one with wider hem is a brand new never used, never ringed family of four oversized dudes TKI brand anyone got info on differences plus and minus?? Wait !! There is more to this ....see where finger points ? Less skirt on the genuine long skirt ? Now, just found a B stamped in the top of the genuine piston. Means it is for a B block eh ? Forgot what all that important detail was about now

I think you will find there were a few differences around the markets of the world on these L Series as we call them in Australia. On here we need to call 'em EA82s and EA81's for what we also call the MY model before the L Series Very tiny pic of what looks like a street light, a paddock and an injured L Series wagon ? Must admit am more curious about your username - got one ? run one ? Would not be too hard to find in Yass You likely know an enthusiast in the region with a UK sourced rally going RX sedan ? I think Oz got mpfi EA82 engines NA where US did not, but US got more wider variety of models wagons, hatchbacks etc with EA82T which is mpfi. We really only got turbo in RX sedans, GLTA sedans and Vortex. US got throttle body injection on EA82 NA, refered to as spfi - single point everyone got 1800cc in our two markets, other markets had EA71 1600cc and even 1300cc L Series ! I think The UK got some different option offerings again, and out there were what digital dash, cruise control trip computers , AWD instead of 4WD selectable The spare parts manuals list something like 18 different ECU for EA82 models around the world over the years !!

elsewhere in here is same sort of thread, with a link to ausubaru.com where, think it goes for eight or nine pages on why most chose smaller ratings. An auto elec told one member just to swap colour for colour , others did some testing in comparison to blow a few and looked like black 80 FFL has greater blow resistance than originals. Fuse manufacturers not comply with a universal code. Much discussion and thought went into it, searhes of other forums as well, discussions again, theories to show 80A aint the same as 80A in some applications. I used my half theory as a protectionist angle, loaded up all circuits with everything lit up, elec fans on inside and out, wipers, horn blowing and engine up and down the rev range. Nothing blew, so I felt no need to increase the ratings incrementally.

how do you tell what stroke you are on ? You need to take the rotor button direction into account and get used to describing cylinders by the number in the block casting. standing looking at engine from the front, looking towards the back of the car, on your left is 1, 3 is behind it, on your right, 2 is at front, and 4 behind it then 'see' the firing order, 1 fires, then its head buddy 3, sequence then sort of repeats from front to back of the other head 2 then 4 Most times if the engine has been put back like factory #1 terminal on the dist cap is basically at the firewall side of the dizzy so rotor points more towards firewall when #1 is on its firing near TDC position hope this helps

yeah, but importantly, I said halve the number before selecting - so where the black 80 is in this pic - I fitted in a green 40A and so on. I know this pic and no reports of failure in 2 years, probably as nothing has gone wrong, but when it does, may fail to protect as desired !

the 93 Loyale is an EA82 beast is it not ? the plastic updates are generally known as FFL - Female Fusible Links and you need to get the long legged variety - inside seam is where they differ Big discussion elsewhere on what rating to use. My rule of thumb was to halve things. For the black genuine, and any other colour genuine fabric covered FL - look at rating of black FFL - think they are 80A - use a FFL half that 80A rating - might be green or pink. Keep going, to replace red fabric FL, look at rating of red FFL and use a FFL rated at half the red FFL - worked for me !

i do not think the angled tube is anything more than an air vent for the float chamber? Not supposed to deliver fuel at all ! It would poor out and have trouble atomising in order to burn nice. Is a flaot in the carby sinking allowing chamber to flood and nowhere for fuel to go other than up and out the bowl vent tube ? Think that is near enough the technical name ! Floats crack and develop leaks, allowing fuel to slowly build up inside so it then changes its function from float to sink, sits lower than should be, allows more fuel in to the bowl ..... I have had brass floats sink. need to test submerged in fuel for a while to see if they take it in, shake shake after to see.....if any got inside float

there is always something left out in request diagnosis posts the gal reference was a clue - I see now, very sneaky Replacing or lubricating the internals of a clutch cable can make pedal pressing so much easier than an old dry cable. You have written first request quite clear though - seems not your problem in getting that pedal in and out. Guys, keep an eye out for a little old lady with well defined left calf muscles !!

which reminds me of the rarest beast delivered in Australia - 1989? EA82 GLTA 4WD actually got the 4 speed E4AT AWD box. I suspect it was 25 spline - can't say now, I threw it out - a priistine internal box - all 113kg of it, box, converter and fluid lard arse

the remaining 28% undecided or just detest anything less tha..should say more than - a six pack ?

I have seen it - just in last 7 minutes thanks for sharing it ! Maybe it is about time Subaru issued an affordable rear disc brake kit to save more from slide outs !

when was the last time the oil level was checked via the easy to access dipstick for the box ? Needs oil to be able to shift nice for starters

...as far as manual boxes are concerned. My 85 GLTA sedan had 3 speed 4WD auto with 23 spline stubs, being turbo, is mpfi defies basic rule of thumb that works 99% of the time Maybe not just any MY front axle - the 4WD are thicker than the FWD, though seen suppliers list one part for both drives recently !

think I saw 9.5

what about a little speculation ? no one in here can tell you what spline count you have in your car due to the chances the donor box came from either a 25 spline or a 23 spline model. Greater chance is that it is going to be same as the 4 speeder EA81 4WD box had initially - 23 spline, BUT if someone found a 25 spline and managed to find and fit correct DOJs - they may have wanted a stronger set of stubs ?? Money is stil on you finding 23 spline. What you can do to help yourself is arm self with a pin punch to knock out the pin on the inner DOJ, far enough through to allow you to slip the DOJ back away from transmission to reveal the splines. mark one, count the rest as it turns with some human assistance. I have a 5 speed conversion in my Brumby - I did it. I also been trying to nut out the 25 spline DOJ that has 23 spline inner to suit the EA81 axle shaft itself without wasting money on stuff. gave up for a while .....I have one of those DOJ just described, wanted to know a new reliable source for another and spares in future

builder may have been using EJ stufffor later being better design and strength. I think it was high comp turbed EA82 and had problems .

the new exhaust, did that include replacing the cat or was it not replaced? as cats can make a blody racket of a rattle at times, maybe go quiet when they block the free flow of the outlet. The Y pipes then sound shocking if cat material been shook out !t Rule of thumb for hydro or solid was the adjusters on the tappets - anti tamper looking for hydraulic. Expect yours to be solids if as old as car points dizzy eh ?

well, considering I have no flat six experience my words may be worth squat but, think of the EA82T FWD - same box internals as NA, just they had 25 spline all the way through from outside stubs to diff components. The ER was not that much more torquey than EA82T was it ? I agree with your wheel slip saving feature for the box internals

Just reading some stuff about the place that claim EA81s were 8.5:1 started to look up some specs, guessing Aust delivery only EA71 - 1600cc are 9.0:1 EA81 79 - 80 1800cc 8.7:1 ............81 - 87 1800cc 9.2:1 EA82 carb listing only up to 87 1985, 1987 1800cc 9.0:1 1986...........................8.7:1 The aftermarket pistons been available over the years have been marked as for EA71, EA81, EA82 My bet is, they are a compromise one part does many NA engines. I get 180 to 190 psi cranking pressures from genuine original pistons in EA81, 82 with up to 500,000km , yet only 160psi on a donk with aftermarket coverall model pistons EA82 turbo 1800cc 7.7:1 don't have NA mpfi specs but my 1989 mpfi NA has piston crowns that 'look just like the carb piston crowns - figuring mpfi and carb in our market got same comp ratios. Reading of US ideas of mpfi and spfi being the higher comp rated original pistons, spfi being highest at 9.5 ? Just curious now if US aftermarket pistons are so generic cover al models or a wider range available ? The soup up tip from 16 years ago was to use EA71 pistons in EA81 for higher comp, but that would be genuine spec EA71 pistons.....I now work out

OK, so you are young, cute and still at school then, and advancing from simple lawnmowers to a four pot boxer? We'll have to go a bit softer on you then I only thought BRATs /Brumbys got the two fuel filters. I think the rear is just before the fuel pump, not just after it, down left hand side rear wheel if your fuel pump is not up on lhs front near bonnet hinge. When it is not performing at its best, is it actually giving you any symptoms other than just not ripping along ? Like a miss or sputter ? Many searches may prove fruitless other than on gogle and give you a new door into many posts. Most wil say give it a full service. I say, pull spark plugs, pull ignition fuse, which is also fuel pump fuse I think. Do a compression test of all cylinders, foot to floor while cranking each time - then tell us what you got. For non turbo EA81 you'd see 160 to 190 psi in good order. Do it engine cold, then back together, warm it up, plugs out, do it at engine operating temp, see if it improves 10 psi or so. You could go off and replace each tune component at atime, see if you can catch what improves things if at all. Tell us if you stay with same grade fuel, buy from same place. Inside dizzy is mechanical advance bits affecting timing. Sometimes they can fall apart, break bits that may then catch, work intermittently I did have an EA81 that was peepy one day, bit sluggish another - it was a hydraulic liftered unit as opposed to the solids I have run since. Waiting on your comp test - a very good first off basic check that can reveal heaps. You could have a valve guide that has worn oddly, allowing a valve to go off centre for southerly directions, back in place on northerly direction (joke Joyce) I ought a dud EA82 engine that had a mystery, think I found it on dissembly ..lots of things can cause lotsa problems. as for cleaning a carb - there is stuff called carby cleaner that you spray inside its throats with air filter off and engine running and following all safety directions of product - it is flammable stuff- spray it on a spark somewhere under bonnet or hot exhaust and you may set fire not only to the engine bay, the car, the shed, house, trees or entire town around you so you need to be smart and careful how you go about it. the carb cleaner is a solvent and can work its way into small air beed jest, other tiny holes and free up some operations, not require a rebuild if this fixes problem

looks like you must still be going ...putting up with it until it stops on ya ?

I noticed the manuals indicate differences between the In and Ex inner valve springs - usual spring ID paint blob/spray Wondering how different an engine would run if someone mixed them up between In and ex ??

try disconnect it and see if your lights work around the car. I think it has something to do with if a light bulb dies, sets something off to come up on the dash.i

Are you the original owner? If not, did the previous owner have same troubles ? May be the reason they sold it and only let you test drive it in a southerly direction Might sound harsh, but instead of you asking everyone what it could be, can you tell us what you have done to it since buying - seeing as though your troubles only started since then. And if you have done nothing, previous owner done nothing - you are in for a bit of work and few parts to buy Has it got a cat converter that early ? They can cause some weird intermittent power losses.....

hmm, not sen these pages for a while. I am curious as the the ID of th SPFI inlet where you cut it...millimetres is an understandable measure ) canot wait for fire up of this beast !