jono

Hey, what happened to the girl ! Now, for the first time I get to see what an unmolested series 1 turbo engine bay looks like ! Some of the background confuses me - right now have plain trees with leaves just gone from green, to yellow and brown and need dealing with. You appear to have some trees still with same colours and red and yet to fall off tree (to become a bother) and also see trees that appear to be coming out in new leaf. Were all pics taken recently ?? Or do you have weird seasons affecting trees ?

http://www.ptrlabs.com/xt6/syoukaku-home/FLAT6-turbo01.htm may have been posted in here somewhere else the title in link may be a bum steer as we see pics of what look like EA turbo pistons in a flat six - ER27 ? but is deffo a flat four EA in first pics

yes, thanks, helps towards the project. I managed to get the rods out as well without any sump, pump, pan removal or splitting the block! But, then I read this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142638-ej20-stroked/ post #5 and #7 of interest so to the forum section , think I have overlooked it before ! hmmm... The big end bearings looked a littl worse for wear, some scoring, pitting and I suspect a little mashing. I sold my best set of EA81 rods and crank in a bad moment, so hope the 500,000km engine is in non machining rebuild state to handle the power of being pumped ! I think it could be possible but really fiddly to do same but backwards - installing pistons and rods into the EA81 without a block split - but rough as guts The donee EA81 has done 140,000km since I did a sump off clean up - be interesting to see how clean it has remained. Been looking through manuals specs that suggests the diameter of the con rods crank pin is exactly the same between later EA81 and EA82, now....for a rod comparison

They look pretty good for old pug steelies !! Never noticed they were holey ! ta

I have made a move towards one of my dreams - may be a nightmare by completion though - pulled pistons from an EA82T that was described as the PO best most powerfullest EA82T ever, then it blew a hose and was never the same It never got hot though - according to PO - maybe on the gauge, musta got hot to some extent as after that event never went the same. Wondering if I can use the EA82 conrods in the EA81 or were crank journals different diameters/widths in standard size? Be easier knowing pistons and rods have same brothers in the EA81, same gudgen pins too. I found some scuffing on one piston - top side of #4 The rings, look OK at first glance, thin ring to the top, but oil rings don't look too expandy Idea is as experimental to try used EA82T pistons in a std bore EA81 with just maybe a hone not a rebore Looking for lower comp to try a different EA81 - Shove EA82 turbo pipe and turbo on it, feed it propane only and see if I can achieve a minimalist low budget turbo that fitrs neat in a Brumby Any experience with mix and match of above bits be appreicated if you can warn me off or encourage me to keep going with the dream I got pistons out no worries, pins came out easy with my old faithpul puller and I used the short end of the jack winder tool poked through the gudgeon pin plug holes, some rag to protect the thread. Also looks like can now just pull rods out if i can undo them down deep thanks fer reading

the big clue for the first person to tell you the coil was off th hot wire not the flapper style afm models was the electronic bit on the coil bracket - some sort of switching resistor do dad. The 85,86 flapper did not have anything but a coil in the coil bracket.

and may I ask about the rims ? What are they off and what size tyre are you running on them ? They look like a more modern era rim with all those air vent holes, yet still 4 stud - still 4x140 PCD ????

aha, very nice toy Not looking forward to crouching in footwell to get a good measure of the acc cable pull point centre difference between original and modified, so... mounted the two pedal boxes on a board, same holes, one at a time and added the spacers as per modified RX mountings. The difference between the original and the EA82 RX pedal box with EA81 acc pedal is just 2mm. Need to extend the top section of the EA81 acc pedal to have same centre. By the time I cut some material out - hacksaw blade width - likely be add 3mm. Plan to drill two small holes either side of the cut, make their centres 8mm apart, so when measure time comes, make sure they are then 10mm apart, taking in the needed 2mm and should be OK. That should get rid of the inner acc cable tearing away at its outer cable noise

the spark plugs have little choice but to be down there somewhere where they would be in the standard head I would think. And Coxy, talking to a Kiwi fabricator who was around the big names at the time - still is,, but this side of the ditch - told me Subaru sold the rally Safari stuff. Again, a guess , was probably to anyone who had the money and the desire to have something that was not likely streetable, all those many years ago ! It is a bit like here with a manifold and triple webers to suit the Ford 2V250 heads - been available for at least thirty years just don't know how many they have sold - never seen one in the flesh !

wanna risk it with a used one? I have one or two to choose from ......none come with any warranty though

go to the other end of the cable at the heater tap under the bonnet and watch as someone else operate the inside dial. Mine was slipping. Secured with a zip tie after cleaning tap unnecessarly nice heater shut of in summer finally, and now autumn is here ...toasty when required.

the coil itself is different as well. It may run with the three plug ecu/flapper set up but may not be best matched for the knock circuit stuff when it comes to drive beyond mock up jut to run it and hear it go 117 numbers appear on correct coil I think

Good find Leeroy ! I did not try the search on the part number. I did however pay more than I needed to then on ebay. I'll go back and edit out the supplier I got mine from

100% will, but according to the mob I bought my new lock from claimed some Brumbies may not be same. I got mine from ebay. Bought last two they had on the listing. Came with matched door locks as well Interestingly - the aftermarket part number was NID 1600 . Came with new wire contacts at back as well and not the wire loom as indicated below in Leeroys link to Nice Products depiction

throttle position switch - it will likely be the switch type rather than th position sensor type.Think it is three wires. One switch indicates closed throttle, next one indicates about 2/3s open. I like to think a second earth between ECU and engine block is a good idea. They had an earth point between TB and dizzy, closer to TB on a thread post/boss using M6 bolt ECU temp sensor - CTS is in the rear bolt on section of the inlet manifold and not tyhe gauge sender in the thermo housing ...

check the fusible links for integrity in the plastic box along from positive lead. If the power leads are the type that the battery terminal clamps clamp down on the lead, check it for hard to see corrosion, rough it up a bit with file, sand paper etc, bit of spray lube or something. Check the earth for same. Rodents in storage too ?Tap starter with solid tool while turning over?

I pulled up at a scrap yard yesterday to cash in some old batteries - paid for a new key to be cut The owner announced he crushed three of these Brumbies and a wagon last week. Two still had rego and were driven in, driven up to the crusher. Taking a peek at the cubes as I drove out was a bit like looking at the chimney at the crematorium

hmmm, looks OK in the back there - much more contained than an EJ20 turbo I have seen jammed into the back of a similar vintage Bug OK. Heater cores are copper and think factory radiators always been plastic tanks with aluminium cores. EA81s had copper radiators. The brass tag may just be a wrecker part tag ? I think the part numbers, two lines of numbers, will be about behind where the black cable tie is on heater hoses. Hey, a water heater core conversion coming up !! Keep an eye out for the knock sensor which is just behind and below the S of SUBARU in the cast inlet turbo pipe. Should be white plastic and two pins inside, plugs couple up with dist wiring and off to the knock sensor module. The original loom had near coil, a black wire, white trace, and whte single plastic female terminal inside to monitor knock sensor. Your beast may be so lightweight - 650kg ? may not even feel a knock unless you load it up with fat chicks Right now, I bet you would love an app that you could download to run that baby from a phone or ipad! Those injectors are batch fire, or mine were...1 3 squirt together, 2 and 4 paired off with each other also. I have switched the wiring and had no change in idle or free revving only. You are gonna have to youtube the first start for us

Contact Details Nardek Pty Ltd PO Box 427 Frenchs Forest NSW 1640 Australia Phone: (02) 9984 9984 Overseas Phone: +612 9984 9984 Website: www.nardek.com E-mail: nardek@nardek.com.au Copyright © 2014 NARDEK PTY LTD

ARJ, if you are still located in Oz, get onto Nardek - they used to do a standard generic efi fuel pump external, with 12mm input, 8mm ID output, 12V as a direct replacement for a plain jane VL Commode. Our Subes ran same part number fuel pump whether NA or turbo. Also get a fuel pressure gauge - I used an oil pressure gauge strapped on windscreen to watch as I drove and diagnosed. It is T'eed into fuel line to get correct reading .Three or four different makes have idled with as little as 10 psi - too low for fpr intercept - just would not take the load for a drive or boost, They were all very terminal pumps. One mechanic diagnosed his own truck as engine stuffed, so bought and paid for another engine to be fitted - same problem New fuel pump fixed it VL Commodore is about all I quoted to them to be able to supply me back in 2006 or 7. Went like a rocket after !

We need twenty good photos put up here to help assess its worth

ARJ, it'll run at 10 psi but 36 is better for boost and best spray mist from jectors

Pointing too high or are all 4 on highbeam while on low beam switch position ?And no low beam lighting at all, as in all four light up same between hi and lo ? I found my quad lights did this when I bought it as the inner high beam units were quartz halogen with replaceable bulbs with metal brackets for bulb to go in causing the arth switching of the lights to activate high beam as soon as low was switched on. Only fixed it with QH sealed beam units after testing combo switch and going bonkers !

the H is likely what others can relay back easier - I think the large letter was to ensure correct coil went in on assembly by using one letter rather than a long part number printed in green ? on a shiny blackground of the coil body.. I'll check my coil when I can get at it

i had a made in 85 for the 86 MY , sold as an 87 EA82T which confused some parts ordering until things were resolved with its VIN BROBE letters think they were - you may need to borrow a VIN from someone with exact same bits if ordering from genuine. Is there another single number or letter label stuck on the dizzy. Am not too sure on those number compared to mine We want some pics mate !