jono

OK, some good info is in the factory manuals. Your dizzy must be a bit grubby then, not to see any markings. Not a plate attached, rather numbers impressed in casting on the outside of the body. Should also have vac can on side, and four pin module inside. This works in conjunction with a separate KCM - knock control module and knock sensor. I have run mine with KCM disconnected, so that won't stop you from test running engine. Need to also check the coil is compatable or even correct part number. The 85,86 is identified by the flapper AFM and I guess the ECU part has been identified as well. Good luck

just been looking at my 84 and 89 Brumby ignition switches, not the wires just yet BUT, Logic says has to be: battery power 12V all the time a 12V accessory output an 12V IGN output starter motor 12V output on the spring tension position if poverty is an issue, splice in four light bulbs to each circuit and mount in a povo cardboard box sticky taped to the dash top, drive and observe if a circuit drops out and if light does as well you have your gremlin ! There is a fifthe contact on my switch, not sure if it is five wires though - likely is - mo idea. I think the switch is marked in the casting right next to each male spade terminal and the odd one out has an R on it. and editing before I finsish ... I have two different EA82 ignition switches just beside me - no spade terminals on the back like EA81 One is pink plug which loooks to be , BLACK, BLACK/White( or yellow trace),BLACK/RED trace, fat BLUE, fat WHITE other is black connector is BLACK/BLUE , BLACK/RED, BLACK/WHITE,, BLACK /YELLOW and plain BLACK no help what so ever, but think now all have five wires except your diagram

my original pump on EA82T was on its last legs - did not make it to near 4800 as it would die (watched the pressure gauge taped to the window drop from 36 to 10 psi) as I asked anything more than take off. I cleaned my tank, dropped diff to last threads on moustache bar I think, undid all hoses and clamps, did the hydrochloric acid clean up, neutralised it with carb soda, washed out heaps of crapola. Was good for new fuel pump - is usually part of warranty conditions of a new pump anyway. Could be a few things

um...how high to the guys armpit ?

if it is one of the very first EA82 (believe they were started in '84) _ I have a pair of used ones for $ale

In our market we got some difference between the 87 & 89 stuff which is why I suggested the part numbers off ECU, Dist, yeah good one - MAF. The least common is if it is 87.5 XT turbo stuff !

"basic troubleshooting is probably a thousand times more important in life than a kid solving an equation. And this is coming from a former math teacher" especially an algebra equation !! - from someone who thought he was gonna be a math teacher - until Calculus totally destroyed that concept. Calculus ??!! mutter, mutter,mutter.................

I like how you think ! What has stranded us with our 80's reliable 'roos ? Well, I have been caught unsuspecting by simple things: fusible links in the plastic box just along from the battery pos terminal- corroded, detached and stopped power to starter side of things. An ignition hotwire and a push got me started and off home to find cause next day - a jumper on the FL would have saved me pushing, running alongside, then jump in battery terminal clamps sometimes break, their hold down bolts work tiny bit loose. So, decent new terminal clamps, spring washers and some lanolin grease sprayed about to keep corrosion to a minimum. Just a clean up of the wire ends is good insurance. in 16 years and two road going Brumbys I have had two ignition modules give up - with prior symtoms. A new module. a Philips #2 screwdriver an a pair of smaler flat blade screwdrivers stashed under the seat is a must. More unseen trouble - remove fuel hoses and blow compressed air through metal fuel lines - catch the crud that spits out the other end of each section. A clean fuel tank and nylon mesh strainer on the pick up inside also a good idea, or remove mesh and use a good pre pump fuel filter. Run fuel cleaner additives from time to time Check the welch plugs in the EA81 heads with a magnet to see if you got stainless or can see they have been replaced with brass ones. If magnet sticks renew with brass or stainless. They are 20mm, three ? per head.If these corrode, they leak water/coolant into oil pan - mimicking a blown head gasket. Do a compression test to get an idea of its health. I have found even a half comp reading in one pot was not felt when driving at any rate. A low reading is an early sign something might b about to bite you. A spark plug thread chaser is a handy little tool to have to ensure spark plug hole threads are clean, so you can grease upnew plugs and guarantee they will come out next time without taking out some of the heads side of the thread. A new clutch cable - very crippling if the bugger goes on you. A new cable is cheaper than a tow fee. A genuine one may never fail you in its lifetime I now lubricate my old clutch cable with lanolin squirted down from engine side - soaks in over a few days, renews soft feel to the clutch pedal. Often keep a spare cable on board in case this one fails. Got a brand new one coming out of another car so not gonna buy one myself just yet Stick in a new oil pressure switch so you know you have a newie less likely to start a leak anytime soon.

is anything wired up ? Fuel plumbed ? Got an ECU with a part number to help others zero in on this for you. The distributors part number may be a help as well.

and will you mark it now for next time, or take some pics of timing mark, left cam wheel position, right cam wheel position, rotor position all at 8 DBTDC and post 'em up here for next person ? Well done - you ain't the first , and not gonna be the last to do that common mistake

actually, I was quoting from a translation from a Mediterranean proverb

Dude ! Jeszek ! Was only just watching that white block of chocolate trick on you tube over Easter. Think they also did the seven Mentos in Diet Coke trick, rubber bands around the girth of a water melon to make it implode on first cut ....very small world

it is a bloody long time since I played with a Holley or Hitachi carb...but aren't the jets and acc pump supply holes at the bottom of the float bowl? I guess they are only part of the fuel delivery of the carbs, so, you open my eyes !

OK, go get a key cut A$5 - A$8 comes with free code reset or for some Euro or modern Japanese beast $300 - A$800 Instant saving with old school Soob

musta missed this call before - done it a few times, and my first piece of advice is don't.Just kidding, first step is to ensure you have a rag to shove underneath between injector nozzle and the nanifold as the spring in the fuel hose in the rail tends to flick them back - smackin' the little brittle plastic end caps. From memory it is some M6 10mm head bolts to undo to get some freedom, but not a lotl Um, which mpfi ? Just NA, turbo or spider turbo ? Advice above is on non spider type (turbo makes no difference in this task) And, you may have to just follow the rail to see if the inlet to head bolt does need to come out (part of maintaining Subies - facing that demon ! ) but don't tink so HEY !! That last post of Opus was not there when I started to type this reply !! hello !

any car is a bit like the how long is the piece of string answer...in the long run, any money you spend on it will be served well for you or the next owner. Keep that in mind when you buy your first one, ask what owner has spent on car in last year or so, ask for receipts. The saving is in being able to do service and repairs yourself and part the reason of forums and clubs. A 300 dollar radiator may seem steep, may last you 15 years (originals and genuines can last 25 ! ), so 20 bucks a year to keep the engine cool is a good dealI It is gonna be variable as to how you use it, how hard you treat it and luck. Wholle totally thing to remember is it was this generation that Subaru gained a good rep, so people moved on in the world and time, bought the later models. Is your missus asking for justification ??

may need an explaination of 'wheeler' - US term I am not precisely familiar with..so close to wiener though ! got some pics coming through that demonstrate the different box lengths and distance from firewall end to the main pedal pivot shaft and lastly the differnt side bends of the pedals - bit different from LHD ones I suspect though... the pics look a little similar, from memory the one on the left is the RHD EA81, then the RHD EA82 RX turbo the one I am installing and the most right one is a RHD FWD 5 speed XT/ Vortex and below is a closer shot at a different angle of the RX turbo gear just greased up, felt end seals back in place ... ; once it is all working nicely I think it deserves to come out and get a coat of epoxy in black or silver to keep the rusty surface look under a moisture proof seal. The accy cable may be replaced before any adjustment welding of pedal goes ahead in case the old cables dodgy firewall fitting is part the cause ....

oh turbosubarubrat - you used a cruise control/brake switch in the pedal adjust/stopper hole , or for the ECU - works OK ? Need to do same in another Brumby

turbosubarubrats pic of a turbo EA82 pedal box - just spotted it is what I know as an XT pedal box, at least looks same as a RHD FWD5 turbo pedal box. It has the helper spring that looks like a head valve outer spring. My EA82 RX pedal box does not have that spring, nor any helper spring and is a two part set-up with a pedal use a metal rubbing point that rubs and rolls against a bearing surface of a lever set up that is supported by a separate axle shaft , Pics might help eh ? in the pic above, the EA82 clutch outer cable mounting block fits where those M6 bolts are, and you can see the metal rubbing block riveted to the top of the clutch pedal. Three roller bearings in all - wonder if they are in the service manuals and which service did the dealer do it ? in the pic below, you can see the hole in the lever with the hardened ring insert for the cable inner pivot pin Fitment progress is happening, just not entertaining more pedal clearance from driver just yet - got it spaced from firewall so brake booster rod lines up almost without adjustment. The EA81 RHD accy pedal just needed a bend or two - mate !! 10mm mild steel rod is overkill for an accy pedal when it comes to need to bend without heat ! Bent it to sit closer to floor and further to the right and still comes nowhere near original accy pedal stop - namely the RHD wheel well ...but has same distances from brake pedal now. Just hearing noise of accy cable inner trying to saw through the outer cable - the distance from pivot point to cable pull is not same with this combo so will need to measure , cut, weld either reduce or increase pedal length. I did not have to adjust pedal cable pull point closer to firewall as the adjuster at the carb pull end was just enough - used it all up though - thort I'd saved a acy pedal cut and weld !

think you will find gasket can only go one way, and the bead is head side

not in my school of thought...unless the higher fluid level increases the fuel pressure out the jets ???? sometimes 2 plus 2 does equal 5

was that an invite ? Any pics or list of suggestions? I've just done a buy up of IGN/steering locks to install to avoid a typical breakdown issue for next 25 years or so And just making use of an EA82 turbo RX pedal box - been sitting on last 9 years, happy to find three roller bearings to assist the smooth clutch operation hoped for, Also sitting on spare EA81 door handles - one door fits any other door, and they break !

1990 USDM you might be lucky swappping between NA mpfi - did you even get NA mpfi ?, check the part numbers in the casting of the dist body for exact comparison. Not including spfi dist, we got about four or five different distributors over the EA82 range. You'd also be comparing look and wire count, colours and pin arrangement

:D a nice story - had my own engine bay fire story - sneaking degreaser on my engine bay in prep to go to the carwash across the road that did not allow use own degreaser (theirs weaker than dishwater) the running engine engine pipes ignited things - i panicked and just drove, bonnet up, peering between it and bottom of windscreen - blew it out That Baja bug had a side draught positioned to actually be a back draught - un filtered trumpets blasting right backwards .....

good. But, wait until next few starts and drives for confirmation is my approach after meeting Murphy a few times. I gotta ask why you think you richen a mixture up by adjusting float level ? Did you find float level was higher or lower than the dot in the window ?