jono

ah, not length, maybe just in the twist - thanks be a case of suck and see

wonder if you tried fitting in tiny water irrigation taps in the vac lines off that port sensor things lines so you can over ride its function with a twist of a tap and change your performance ?

I think the engine roatation thing was someones theory 30 years ago - not thought about any further until same car compared LHD to RHD do we get a better theory RHD gets taller spring on right. LHD gets taller spring on left. Once had a springs sales and fitting agent install some springs, upset cars stance, wrote and queried manufacturer to find the taller should have been installed on RHS, I borrowed tools to check for myself and correct. Don't believe anyone has worked on my cars since, except for exhaust and one tuner and he blew his chance too - GOOSE! Tried to apply V8 timing marks to an I6, set timing too high, let my car ping its head off on the dyno, scrawl across the invoice that compression was too high for street use .....fitted a grubby HT lead, passing it off as new. I took car home and set timing back to factory specs and was beautiful The coding on the spring you have on your left, is installed on RHD market on the right, so could be described as drivers side spring, pax side spring just appear different sides of car depending on the market. As for the grey dot - I see thanks, we got coloured bits on the top mounts too, just not rcall the different colour My EA81 all have battery on the drivers side/turbo side/right front corner when viewed from inside My EA82 all have battery on passenger side/dizzy side/ left front as viewed from inside

1 3 4 2 !! Better swap cars mister ! Until you can remember that the fiont pots fire before four, like in sequence 1 , 3 along the heads 2, 4 from the front...so the cap needs to be 1324 sequence as well, is it in anticlock direction too I think. Could explain your 3 and 4 plug condition ?? Or typo in your post sending me off ona tangent? And, often when looking at rotor button it ain't pointing precisely at the Numero uno conatct in the dist cap, it is just approaching the spot in direction of spin - caught me out a few times Just thought of something ... the EA81T dizzy is much like the next gen EA82T dizzy if not the same on the insides ?? If you really only made a typo above , surely you did not screw up the firing order on the cap and lead sequence ?? nah, surely not ?? My trick with EA82T and similar dizzy when all things lined up and fly on the timing mark on flywheel 20 DBTDC in my case - same for an EA81T with ECU ?, in the dizzy where the two parts line up and is when I imagine the spark is triggered, I would use a feeler gauge inserted squarely between the rotor and the fixed bit in dizzy - 25 though gap. This is not a gap between the two parts directly, more 25 though gap before the two line up as rotates. Engine always started

that backfire, accompanied with orange flame throwing ability is so much funneir viewed from a coupla feet away than it is to the victim I used to work with a bearded mechanic who was crouching at the rear of a Porsche engine baja bug trying to sort out a miss, The sde draught nearly burnt his beard off. I was fortunate to witness it

OK, actions now .......rather than cut two boxes and weld a firewall end of an EA81 pedal box to the RX pedal box - and maybe stuff both in the process I went with the more cautious option:) I have disconnected cables and wires and removed the pedal box and pedals as a whole unit, felt a bit like a midwife for a moment ? and refit of the RX pedal box really needed the clutch pedal extra bits removed and the column lowered to get the EA82 RX pedal box in for a trial fit. I used the long nuts of about 25mm long, four studs from the EGR studs of EGR valve mounting for their minimal no thread zone in the near middle and a washer against the floor, another washer at the back of the pedal box for extra reinforcement and also lines up poifect with the under dash brace. The whole assy needs to be a little sloppy to allow reassembly of the RX pedal section, or, maybe a bfh to knock some of the under spare wheel well bracing of RHD ??? Only need a smidge to get the pivot thing back on. And guess what I found inside ..... little roller bearing races each end for the clutch pivot shaft !! This is where the 25% increase new sale price over a NA wagon went !! There are alloy spacers between firewall and booster, about 12mm thick , maybe 2 and a half of theem could be modded to fit between firewall and pedal box for better rigidity, but am happy with how it all looks and feels at the moment. Stopping to give knees and sanity a break A thought came to me that if I were able to mount this pedal box against the firewall and still get enough clutch pedal throw for 25mm at the fork, and the accy pedal still clears things, and I cut more thread on the brake to booster push rod and extand the front mounting instead - I could get an extra inch of seat to pedal clearance for my legs !! Would also mean no chop and add some to the accy pedal. Woulda been easier to mod the EA81 pedal box for time counted !

ah and many thanks for rolling with this query, interesting to see the yeLLow on the Right side - if both [actually count is now three cars] so far unchanged since birth would look like the white [ a smidge taller free sprung high ?) goes with the driver side for the fronts and rears are identical to left and right. Makes sense to have the rumoured taller spring with driver side, had heard taller was for the thrust of engine, driver and battery being on same side of a RHD Ford of the 60's & 70's . Rumours eh !! Not seen a grey dot on black this hemisphere ?????

Subasaurus looks like nice fuel figures and starts, stops, no smoke, no problems - maybe don't go try fix something that is broke this time around

hey Naru - thanks I do think I have read that before on the into pages, just must have not fully understood how it was applied. So, make date according to the plate or deeper VIN decoding by dealer. I recall my GLTA was a 9/85 build date or was it 10 ?? Anyway it got the later version stuff so I need not worry, bother etc looking for the rarer stuff bushes. Even though it was built in late 85 it did not get a compliance plate in Oz until 3/87 My other GLTA rolling shell had a 10/85 compliance plate date and theVIN was only 179 apart from its sister. My runner GLTA must have sat in Japan or even Aus wharfs for a few years. Demand and sales were not big here

talking EA82 and it looks that hoses are same part numbers for the front of all ? EA82 - sedans, wagons or XT's but there is a part number for left, part number for right anyone know the difference is between each hose apart from its genuine part number ?? I have two of same part number from Rock - hoping to be able to fit them without hassle. I would think aftermarket may have made a compromise hose that fits both sides. Gonna have to hope eh ?

Does anyone understand the remarks column of the Subaru genuine parts catalogue and can explain ? I understand some of the remarks but when it gets down to that part being specific to a model that the remark is: simply >58 and the next part is remarked as 59> I understand first part does up to 58 and next from 59 BUT where do these numbers come from ? numbers are actual quoted on the radius rod bushes- the 58 being 1986 and the other part for 86 through to end of the run leading rod bush 21047 GA311 and 21047 GA312 on frame 3D02 it would really only concern those with an 86 MY and right on changeover time/ numbers BUT does anyone understand where the numbers are to be found ?? Can't think would be the VIN just from two digits ... .

I run a DP200 as seen in here http://www.peelinstruments.com.au/page12.html The duty cycle gauge could be handy for some efi enthusiasts ?? The Y pipe is on a non O2 equipped model -something our authorities allowed on 4WDs, it is off an efi EA82 so conveniently came with an O2 sensor I use O2 sensor just to read from, so it does not control any of my mixtures, though IMPCO do make a mixture controller that uses O2 sensor readings to adjust things ever so slightly - no idea why it is required on some later models as the fresh air non interfered with systems run very accurately controlled mixtures as it is according to the tail pipe analyser on the road under all conditions I have tested. The controllers tend to be forgottn, not maintained and after some time of neglect can then be cause of backfires from the controllers conditions causing a lean out not sure why I didn't just buy a digital readout gauge that I guess would read whatever it received, whereas this LED bar graph jobbie sort of appears to read only very close to the stoich of propane burning at 15.5:1 air fuel ratio. Yet to note just what the tail pipe reading is as bars go each extreme. Something to do over the break maybe. I guess anyone running a standard car burettor could get an O2 sensor bung welded on or fit an O2 sensored Y pipe and get a running reading as to how well their mix is burning. I run one of these made while you wait gauges in my turbo EA82T set up and can see it drop towards lean at the end of long mountain hauls as it gets hotter the IMPCO converter tends to lean things out a bit about 95C - just like to monitor what is available

well, you'd like to think if you ' fixed it' the ECU would have some input to keep fuel air mix in check instead of its probable default richer mode which might have consequences further down the track fouling plugs, sooting up other stuff internal ... No extra black sooty smoke out the tailpipe from a supposed richer default mix ?r

Done the same and ended up with Y pipe removal for access of my EA82 Y pipe on EA81 Brumby. No ECU in mine, just making use of the O2 sensor with the single orange wire in the pipe to read to an LED reader display. I discovered just yesterday , that for my particular case the reader needs to be earthed to the engine block and not just a simple earth within the vehicles earth grounding system ! The instructions did not go out of their way to explain why the unit has eng block on its wiring label. The gauge worked, just nowhere near accurate when I installed it in the last 6 to 12 months - until yesterday when i ran a wire from displays earth terminal , out the door, under the bonnet and cleaned up an earth pointon the AC bracket. BINGO ! Gauge works just fine ! The moral of the story seems to be for single wire O2 sensors at least - make sure the O2 sensor has a clean metal to metal contact on the exhaust apart from the threads that you may have some rust or sensor safe anti sieze grease on it and that the reader whether a gauge or the ECU has a good engine ground connection. I was just trying to power and earth my reader up via a cig ligter socket.

wasn't there some sort of anti backfire set up on a lot of our Subarus ? Like a reed valve air feed on backing off throttle position ? Extra complexity of hoses and a valve that looks a bit the shap of a sand timer .....

^ ^ ooh? what was that ?? Oh ...it was a bump !

righto - found 7831231260 on US ebay.com - we have ebay.com.au even shows part number on Subaru fuji box BUT it depicted lock ain't the same one I have - figure it must be the tilt adjust steering lock Found an after market one on US ebay, well, found two left, so found justification to buy both, one at a time of course Oddly enough was a seller in Oz of all convenient places, so someone makes or made an after market ign steering lock that comes with matched pair of door locks !!

OK, so, just what does the inside of the dizzy look like ? One module and can easily see the four pointed rotor thing on the shaft and its near conatct point fixed to the body of the dizzy OR two brown or black plastic covers covering stuff saying do not remove and can't really see reluctor and stator thingys? I ask coz if you have first type, I may have some helpful 'structions to follow

actually ....it is jono ...New User apears above your mugshot as well Did I use enough emphasis on bastard ? Having to screw EA81 master pipe nuts upside down for starters is against the technician, let alone the odd tension the steel line adds to the equation of lining the threads up to avoid stripping, all the while one bar pressure is working against you tryin' to let air in fresh bench bled master, and gravity is tryin' to let brake fluid (icky stuff on being skin and duco) out !! I found it helps not to bolt master to booster until hard line pipe nuts are in home as it adds to the tension against pipe nut threads. If I had to try do one more bleed after my last attempt, I was going for rubber hose replace on those hard lines from chassis to master to speed the install. The threat was good enough. On my recent bleed after fitting new hoses I thought of making a home suction set up. No air transfer hole in PET fizzy drink bottle, just a tight seal on the small ID say 4mm PVC bleeder hose. Use rubber hose on nipple end, clear PVC hose tight fit, squeeze much air from PET bottle and hold squished while fit lid, open nipple with thread taped threads, any nipple blockages cleared out with hand driven drill bit and let PET bottle reform to its blow moulded shape as it sucks fluid through faster and maybe a step better than gravity flow - I rarely use the brake pedal except if no flow. Pumping, or rather slow pump and even slower release of brake pedal can cause air to re enter at the master

think I have seen cylinder location expressed as 3 boxer 4 1 boxer 2 radiator L..you....R does the dizy have a vacuum canister on its side?

so now you are gonna have to get the oldies to sign up and carry on in your absence ?? No one has asked the bleed sequence - it seems to matter sometimes with these diagonal split systems I know EA81 are edit on RHD !! right rear, left fron, left rear, right front, then I do the beed nipples on the master. Think EA82 differs, about to find out soon Also use one man bleeder of tight on nipple rubber tube about 50mm long, then clear tube into an old plastic drain bottle, watch for bubbles, also use thread tape on nipple thread. The masters can be bastards to bleed up on bench. I made up from old metal lines to clear PVC to dribble back to reservoir and won out !

Tapping the resources within the membership - looking for a genuine part number for the GEN2 BRAT/Brumby/sedans a wagons etc ignition steering lock key barrel assembly of the non adjustable steering column type. It is a whole assy including the key barrel and whole clamping set up on the steering column inner tube TIA

shame mine did not work as it was very neat and direct return path - the vapours were contained, ducted back post mixer but suspect the back flows caused some distraction for boost pressure. One day may try an electric controlled solenoid set up that reportedly will work ! Many more projects before that day comes

You are the first to tell me that a draw through can't be assisted with a blow off valve set up ! Wish you were about when I tried so ! Could have saved me some coin and grief. I still plan on trying next time the engine is in something..thinking electronic blow up valve...after I have tried the return pre mixer. I know one guy whose dad did have a blow off and blow off working just his passengers complained of the smell - he was doin' an illegal blow off to atmos !! My 200 was fine for 90 or 100,000km. The 225 is really not that much bigger in flow and uses same diapragems anyway. I run 125 and also have a 100 fitted up on NA EA81 twin carbs and spfi inlet manifolded jobbies. Seen a 225 on a 351 F100 belonging to a propane fitters truck of all things. There are certain sweet spots for each size mixer and I get nice clean mixtures out of both sizes. My first 4 cylinder propane foray, my guru claimed the 125 can even do 3.0 Nissan sixes, yet every time I have seen one, they are done with 225 mainly due to the factory air intake duct sizes. The 200 and L converter came off a 4100cc straght six. OK, got it running now ??

I have found a coil that even though it tested OK - klutz following test it tips - still fixed things with new coil. I have once found a car will not start while coil is not grounded by its outer casing to the engine block. Weird, coz never read that they need to be grounded, nor understand as no terminal is connected to the body .... So, the EA82 that won;t spark / start ...is spfi then ? is there a module inside the dizzy then ? They can fail. Early EA82T mpfi 3 plug ECU models had a module in dizzy, four plug ECU then took over the in dizy module function. and, that edit time just below is my time zone not US !!