jono

cough * ! Did I say Nissan ?? Sorry ...it was actually a rebadged Isuzu sold as a GM Holden Gemini 1600cc petrol RWD and think it was found searching friction plate listings with the 200mm dia specs from the EA81 friction plate with regard to spline count to suit the EA82 4WD 5 speed friction plate 225mm spline count

could well be just rusty crud build up in the fuel lines. I even renewed the rear fit fuel pump before I got really inconvenienced by this problem. was blamed on a new fuel discounters fuel, then one night - the night that was gonna prove or disprove the good ol' Y2K bug 31.12.1999 - I had to top up with their fuel and it ran like a rocket up to the top of the mountain road nearby - gravel and in 4WD. Mine was so much a bitch in the cool of the night and OK during the day - when I had time to chase symptoms that failed to show. 11pm knock off and I'd start it OK and then try to drive up the steep road - kangaroo hopped, bucked and carried on...or turn to go down the incline to warm her up and she'd get me home to bed - no 'roos, no pigs. Then, one Sat arvo on the way to work, warm temp, level and normal driving, just bucked and died on me - still able to start, but hardly driveable. I had done everything except open the tank or blow the lines

I have found a Bosch coil off a Ford on one of my subies so guess a swap between EA82 and EA81 can't hurt BUT depends on which EA82 - some EA82 shared same ignition module as EA81 and that uis where it would not matter. A coil made for points ignition should not be swapped between a coil for electronic igniton module as one is sort of ~ 9V and the other ~12V. Your problem sort of sounds electrical - is sort of hard to tell even if problem is own hands, let alone remote diagnostics. The EGR valve operation is best learnt with a vacuum gauge and an in cabin spare working EGR valve T'd into the same vacuum supply line. You should then find it only operates on light throttle - AND some systems in place in some Subes as to work only below certain speeds - 30mph... and at operating temp and not when cold engine temp Look inside your coil tower - may only need some powdery scunge cleaned out 16 psi vacuum would be cause for concern - you'd be reading In Hg inches of mercury for vacuum. From memory the conversion factor is something like 27. 16psi vacuum would be something like 432 InHg ! WHOA - HOLD THE BUS !! I think you are going down same path I did when I got my first Subaru - think it was gonna be their last ..... It had been tuned, the dizzy overhauled prior to sale - I suspect it still had the (undisclosed) intermittent problem when they sold it. I then did a fulll retune with new parts, rebuilt the carby, replaced the fuel filter...sound familiar ?? Only when I opened up the empty tank inspection hole - sender unit hole, saw a pristine interior, then blew compressed air through each metal fuel sction line at a time from front to back when - always last thing you try eh ? ..the steel fuel pipe between the fuel pump rear filter to the tank- THOONK !! rust n crud landed on the floor of my pristine tank innards. Problem solved once I dragged that stuff out on a rag on a clothes hanger wire reacher .... story has resolved many EA81 vehicle woes Funny enough, that rag brings back memory of finding a rag with matching red exterior duco on one side - floating around the pick up in a TR6 that would stop up every incline and start up fine as soon as it was on the level or down hill when low on fuel

I love it when rumour does not reach the guy doin' the actual fiddlin ' machthree2 - your friend may have had a 200mm flywheel instead of the 225mm flywheel off the EA81? With that combo I used a Nissan friction plate with just a 0.2mm difference in the spline shaft input shaft diameter so worked fine, just I used the EA82 clutch thow out on the EA81 200mm pressure plate finger springs - rode a little higher up on the fingers and should have added the longer throw EA82 pedal

what is tsb ?? an acronym for turbo subaru brat - sorry !

and there is a difference between the flywheel to crankshaft bolts of EA81 and EA82 ain't there?? So...if you try bolting an EA82 flywheel to an EA81 crank- don't you have to use EA81 flywheel bolts with thinner shaft and get a non snug fitting of bolts in EA82 flywheel ?? This is what I have read anyway - could be wrong totally but no hurt checking one way or t'otheru

yeah, yer second mistake was to not tell us which EA you have that is easy fixed as well - just as well one thing I always seem to stumble on - is follow manual directions when it comes to lining up dizzy dots @ TDC. One car and one manual many years ago the instructions were similar BUT was @ the static timing mark. Dpends on what engine you have and if EA82 they have a few different dizzies, but essentially with EA82 the dizy body really only goes in one spot with the two M6 10mm headed hold down bolts sort of central in their slots, with the rotor pointing pretty much towards the firewall AND if you have #1 and not #2 on TDC, shift it a smidge to say 10 DBTDC before dropping the dizzy - and see how that goes. Could be slightly different to GLoyales 'structions. If it is EA81 I can shoot some pics to help if needed

OUCH!! That hurt A thought just came to me - 'just' cut the firewall snout end off and extend it to suit - use a bit of tsb approach ;

aha tsb , and carfreak, am starting to think the EA81 clutch pedal has a different shape to it in LHD form cmpared to RHD in the long leverage end. I simply shoved an EA82 pedal in my EA81 PB on that other project EA82 engine and box in EA81 84 Brumby. Worked well on an already modified PB

WOW! Are you a resourceful dude or what ! Are you doing this right now, or are you sharing your library of pics ? A cut and shut would have been the last thing I would have done - only coz I'da never a thought of it ! Thanks for the show and tell The joint country hardware store only had join nuts in imperial threads would you believe ? I intially started thinking if I just use join nuts there would be a long term stability issue as the PB is sort of jammed against the firewall in factory set ups, but playing with one join nut I have,I reckon I could add a 2mm plate to the back of the PB making up the ~27mm and see how things go. I really should add some pics of RHD PBs huh ? Here in RHD land, a performance mod is to cut the corner out of the flor mat that gets between the underside of the accy pedal and the RHF wheel arch. In LHD world you would not get interference from the trans tunnel surely ?

lady luck may have just breezed by .... the length difference when measured roughly ...looks like 27mm.Join nuts are 25mm long, enough to swallow unmolested booster studs and offer safe thread number to add some studs or simply bolt into place. Some fastening device or goo to go with it....off to a US and AUS joint venture hardware to score the extra join nuts

Ten years ago I asked on another forum about the EA82 five speed into an EA81 body to replace the 4sp 4WD Dr box. Amongst info offered was instead of modifying an EA81 pedal box (PB from here on in ) to take the EA82 clutch cable, someone said he just used an EA82 PB. That word 'just' also applies when someone suggests to just fit an EJ engine to replace an EA Back then I spottted the PBs were not a direct bolt in, so modded my EA81 PB Full circle, having tossed a few EA82 PBs, considered the whole idea for the better clutch cable design and need the EA82 clutch pedal for the longer pull for an EA82 clutch - no need to mod the EA81 PB and add reinforcement. I have a chunky style RX PB - uses same length cable, just more robust design PB. Looking at the two different PBs: both have same hole spacing for the steering column bolts and the booster studs the EA82 PB as a whole is shorter in length than EA81 PB by about 40mm ? the accelerator pedals are different at the cable pull end at least. Swap over easily, EA82 also has bonus return spring my idea was to extend the steering column end with flat metal plate , BUT, just noticed the pedal pivot bar in both is same distance from the steering column end mounting holes , so, to mount EA82 PB in EA81 against firewall we'd have to alter the brake pedal to booster push rod and the clutch cable would have less distance to sort itself before the firewall exit hole. In EA81, the pivot point for the accy pedal is agaisnt the firewall. If the EA82 PB was installed, that pivot shifts towards the drivers pivot point by about 40mm - OK if you are shorter than me. That mount may need altering, cut off and reweld, or just a simple bend OR it gives more throttle pull !! Simple enough fix then - spacer between the firewall and pedal box would do the trick , but the studs off the booster would likely need extending. This might be done with long nuts/join nuts made up to double as the spacers between PB and firewall/booster. May also need shortening of the boosters studs - a point of no return then..... So, anyone done the stickl shift EA82 PB into an EA81 and got any tips? be appreciated I am doing mine in RHD, but should be no different to a LHD set up Just thinking...if space allows - a spacer made up of a plate to bolt to the booster end, say 110mm square, another of say 6mm plate, with threaded holes and studs to bolt to the PB end, and a spacer of about 75 -80 mm square hollow section tube, all welded together. So, essentially a spacer made up to bolt to firewall to leave in place for when PB ever needs to come out for clutch cable replace etc ???

call it an EA81 and you are just a little closer to the mark

the entire EA82 stuff ?? Steering rack bolt directly into EA81 engine cross member or you also fit in the EA82 engine cross member as well ?? That would also need the EA82 outer CVs or some adaptors for the inner seals, or a lucky find seal ?? I have now since fitted the struts to their correct sides - much happier knowing I am not trying to reinvent something here. Brake hose brackets also welded inusing my jig made from an EA81 strut and on max drop extension the new brake hoses EA81 look to be so close to their max extension - a custom made longer hose could be in order if the struts gained me any more height over the 15mm I got from the EA81 struts and springs - struts and springs must just be that bit longer ? Gloyale, I have to convince you to study the three stud EA82 strut tops a little closer. The distance between the studs appears to be the same, not tried to fit tops in the wrong way to prove one way or another myself.BUT there is a difference in the mount as there is a mild rake to the strut mounts I have and it is in just one stud compared to the other two studs. I used some reference points with strut top mounted to strut and found the difference between the one and the other two is just 2mm - pretty hard to spot That loner goes to the front of the vehicle. Factory manuals do not indicate the difference, there is no markings on the mount as there is on EA81 strut tops. After market Gregories manual here in Oz say to mark the mount before removing. I intend to mark my mounts next time I remove - never read that instruction did I ?? I plan to mark them by removing one of the three rubber castle tops - the one at the front most. Monroe part 11090 is for the left of a 4WD EA82, 11089 is for the right. Someone fitted them each on incorrect side to my 4WD turbo EA82 sedan GLTA with the fitment stickers facing inwards so they could not see them !! Never had a problem in my 110,000km !

yet in the 34 years since, maybe just maybe someone has already done the conversion so it may just be a 5 sp d/r in an 1981 vehicle. ask the seller a few questions, get some pics and promise of all the extra bits needed

but thanks for sharing the idea and actually carrying it out. I had thought maybe just on the front for a pro stocker look. Next trick could be to do dual rims on all four corners for added safety

you not talking about the space saver skinny rims and wheel barrow like tyres are you ?? I have three so far

OK guys and gals, counting on some contributions to build up some useful info on identifying the correct original coils in our EA82 series at least for starters. Firstly, Subaru list their front springs as a part number for left and another for the right. The parts book does not appear to list the paint daubs/splotches simply sprayed on to the coil wire itself I know the RX sedans rear coils are 1.0mm beefier wire than the FWD sedans of 85 / 86. The sedan rear coils are also shorter than wagon rear coils. Slip wagon coils in a sedan and you get a handling disaster waiting to happen. I found 85,86 RX at least had a rather bright yellow paint splodge on each of the rear coils. Fitted same up to the rear of my 4WD XT. The front of my XT already had the best coil spring and strut combo available from Subaru stable to get correct ride height. They have been marked as from a FWD efi sedan - a Royale As fitted on the front is BLUE splodge and a WHITE splodge on the right As fitted on the front is BLUE splodge and a YELLOW splodge on the left. I am remembering this to the grey cells as BLUE AND WHITE ON THE RIGHT and BLUE AND YELLOW - well yellow and left both have an L in their English words EA82 wagons have at least two different sets of factory rear coils. If I recall correctly the colour pairs were yellow and green, and green and pink - same colors and part numbers likely for rear coils, Maybe wagons had an orange colour with green ?? The reason I have dragged this stuff up is I have swapped EA82 front struts to my EA81 Brumby - side for side. Now, these MONROE struts have a sticker on them, facing out (when fitted correctly ) indicating where on a car diagram these struts should fit. I always thought it odd that the one for left was on the right side, one for right on the left !! 11090 is the left strut, 11089 is the right. Part of my problems fitting up to the Brumby was clearance of the coils to the inner guard - resolved with a biggish hammer. It is only now that I have finished the right side I discover the oddity and reason that the left strut will fit the left side better than it does the right Mind you, the mod to weld the brake hose bracket was easier when left strut is fitted to the right !! I have now modded both left and right struts brake hose brackets to be a right handed strut - just for the moment. I start to question as per usual - the last bastard to work on my sedan installing those struts must have been on some good drugs ! Start to question if I swap things around correctly, do I also need to swap the coil springs from side to side ?? I looks and finds the strut that was on the left has ...BLUE & WHITE from the RIGHT - so at least the whoever that did the coil spring swap got it correct, just not whoever did the install !! Lucky me. OK, so bit of a survey , so please go out there into the cold, crouch down and scrub your coils to reveal what sort of colour combos you have and let us know sedan, FWD 4WD or wagon and see if we can't complie some near useless info

not a hissy fit coz sumptin' is dirty/too hard, or just plain tired either !! I have only ever seen one other use the spanner linked to spanner for that leverage trick - was a mechanic ! Is it possible for you to have more kids like this ? The world needs 'em !!

just where is 'here' - I am confused now reading some of your latest posts. Are you still in Sydney, or moved to US, or from US, now in Sydney ? The original poster makes me wonder just what lights are working and when, and how they are different to what the law prefers ..... the 87 87a relay dos not use any power when in one of the two positions as it is simply resting, non energised, so should not drain your battery. Mind you, I have some odd hook up on my manual cooling fan switches - got two rectangular AC switches in dash - usual 2 spots, left does left fan, right does right fan. If I leave them pressed in and ignition off they are somehow drawing some power I think and drain battery over a long period between starts.Leave them in off position, drain does not happen !?

ok, back on this task.... finally worked out how and where to weld the brake hose support bracket on the EA82 front strut. I cut the old ones from the old EA81 strut and welded it to the existing welded on hose bracket so no welding to the actual tube. Still needs some work to allow the safety clip to fit properly for some reason What I have done though is call Monroe, quoted them the 11090 part number to ask what it is for, multi brand model fit almost generic ? No.... It is the left hand side front for an L Series 4WD Subaru specifically. It was fitted to the RHS of my EA82 turbo despite being labeled clearly with a diagram of a car and a red spot indicating it was for the left hand side. I marked strut with an R for right before I removed it, so , I installed it on the RHS of my EA81 ute, fund the clearance issue of the spring, resolved that, now almost resolved the brake hose bracket difference. EA82 and EA81 front brake hoses are also different length and mainly the mid way support ferrule thing. And now that I have figured that side is finished and on to the left...I find that the other part number is likely 11089 for the right side, gonna find it on the left aren't I ?? !! I also had clearance issue on that side for the coils and sorted. A member in here ...bratman18 ? also said he had similar troubles with his Monroes in his BRAT so gave me confidence it all works and just need to resolve issues as they arise I am gonna have issues now if I get the correct numbers on correct sides - in regards to brake hose brackets I think and another thing you not often read about - the left and right springs... I can see now that when my EA82 turbo went in for new suspension back in early 2000's they were not done side by side, or the struts came out of a wreckers to replace stuffed air bag suspension and no one looked to see what side was what coz they fitted up . I now would like to know the colour paint daubs for left side and right side of an EA82 4WD RX The rear air bags were replaced correctly with shocks and coils - factory RX sedan coils with the yellow ID paint daub, so maybe I also got RX front coils. I need to look and report back when the rain has stopped. At this stage where I am at, only just need to jig up and weld another EA81 brake hose bracket, paint out the Monroe blue to factory look gloss black and I am done - just will be running left strut on right, right strut on left !!! Oddly, now knowing this, the EA82 turbo sedan handled very well. I have no idea how its brake hoses never fouled or were too short for their mounting position being on the outer side of the strut tube than the inner !! Oddly, it never dawned on me left and right confusion was the answer to the oddity, I figured the strut would not bolt up to the other side due to the lock tab short horizontal bolt hole would then be in wrong spot. Did not see visually to transpose its position without changing its orientation to other side would work :)i

maybe glue a good back casing on to the special ones ? PM me your email addy and I will shoot of a heap of pics for you to choose best one to suit your needs

thinking back to Tweety and his EA82 spfi conversion to an EA81. Had all sorts of problems and some may have been related to a not so healthy engine it would seem on tear down. The rebuild did not see any fuelie stuff other than an inlet manifold so the spfi did not a get a chance to prove itself. I hauled a near 9 year sitter home, tried to start it on that old fuel. Did all sorts of things and eventually got it going real nice on fresh fuel. What then got me was letting it sit another six months. Next start was difficult and ran like crap. Tear down was needed and found shiny wet like black sticky gum stuff that whiffed of stale fuel on inlet valve stem and a bent push rod to explain the no compression on that pot #3. I also accidentally found same on same position inlet valve #4 on the other head. I suspect the fresh fuel dissolved the barnacles on the inside of the tank and released them into the fresh fuel and gummed up my valves. So, moral of story may be, efi needs better more even compression radings to perform nicely - how is your compression ?

well, as cast into the back, both bulbs are W10/5 12V5W so figure both could be wedges on my spare. note that the clear park light section hole has four lug chunks 90 degrees apart, the turn orange has three lug chunks 'missing' to ensure no one fits turn wired bulb to park hole and vice versa

and when the vibrations tear out a piece of your Beast floor, you can replace that floor section with a large chunk of rubber matting and get the anti vibration quality back