jono

Thought I said I cleaned it all out and used EPL-2 grease. Can't get seals so grease I stuffed in there should help. Anything is better than what these look like inside after 30 years!. I did not see the Leggy presentation. In fact never seen or read anyone do their own -I was flying blind first one. Second was a cinch!

not got access to manuals ATM so asking if hubs nuts at rear get same sub 200 ft/ lbs as front drive shafts? i swapped in my "Portland" disc rear this morning and now swear I have an unhappy bearing noise if I had a torque wrench rated up to is it 196? I would use it i just use a pipe 15" long sleeved over 450 long breaker bar and give it some and then a tad more to get split pin alignment. i am the last one who tensioned this nut before and it seemed too easy compared to front CV shaft nuts Surely FWD tears not so tight?

Yours would get cooked by my turbo or cat. RHD takes a not the best angle out the firewall then a curved 90° up to the fork. Must say I like the external support bracket I found in ,99 impreza

Lucky fella with photo allowance ! Thanks CZNY I also used a yellow tape, with yellow casing, almost thought my pics had miraculously loaded up. Worst rules and tapes out have metric and imperial on the same face - affects accuracy You know some years ago I thought LHD clutch cable would be shorter ( but I was envisioning a clutch pedal next to the hump ) Only ever driven auto LHD on our roads here - just as well no clutch to deal with !! A whole extra 5 inches give or take - that idea blown away then - be nowhere to take up the extra. They retail about A$110 here

Hmmm, I thought the EPL-2 grease would have given it up as a manual rack ? Fair bit of loving, not wrong "Bennie" Needed a break from the propane computer set up which you can find via google, just not on Peels website The seal on top that looks like it has 'spokes' radiating out for a bit of strength, needs a little care to remove and reUSE. Seems there is only PS rebuild kits not MS

Might have taken a few months from start to finish for my first steering rack rebuild,but I tell you it was all worth the effort and time. My inner and outer tie rods are rock sourced to make the task more affordable. I got the ELP-2 spec grease from a steering specialist, but figure most greases will be better than what most of you will find inside your racks! Tool list is pretty basic such as two shifters, a small cold chisel to tease the lock washer of the inner tie rod to rack connection. A pin punch should take over until washer flat enough to get things undone Almost just only wrist tight inner to rack A pair of 90° bent circlip pliers in the ready to squeeze in type for the circlip found under the special shaft seal that really needs care when removing as no longer available in this style. A normal grease seal likely to be sourced but genuine seal has a tough metal top ring bonded in. I don't believe it matters which direction the top of the T that bolts to the rubber flex join, but when assembled I sound drivers side end in so shoulders were flush then fitted spiral shaft so it's top line was in line with rack, not at an angle. Once circlip is out just need to jolt the shaft from steering coupling out, same sort of wriggle tap when assembling I left end seals as they were, just washing old crud out, clean up before assembly One end of rack has a flat on both sides for tightening inner tie rod rack ends so don't boot up until both sides done up and lock washers or thread locking goo is done. Steering joint I got my grease from ( out of their bulk supply) said they toss the lock washers ( also NLA for EA81) and use thread locking glues The other end of rack only has one flat so not as good on shifter when tightening up inner tie rod Setting my rack up for driveway no wheel alignments needed instantly- I set the rack on floor with outer tie rods tapered shaft to be square to the rack ( not their tendency to pully inwards Measuring from the tapered shafts centres I used 1245 mm and if it is 1265 I will edit later ...lock tie rod nuts and I now have such light , tight steering. Not pulling either way so figure I don't need a more professional/ accurate alignment - time will tell Locally a fellow Brumby owner paid out A$500 for a recond manual rack. I am happy to have done this myself and got such a good result. Replaced CV shafts I had kicking around for years, and also heavy duty coils and better strut tops so makes it hard to say just the rack made all the improvement CVs CSA110 from REPCO. Five year 100,000 km warranty Oh, forgot...there is a hard plastic slipper/guide and spring for getting correct free play tension on the rack itself. This is under the 14 mm bolt head with lock ring nut. I used a centre punch then just gentle drill tip point to enlarge centre punch marks. With both racks I did I found the 14 mm came out ~ 4.75 turns..so went back in the same turns to line up marks on 14 mm and housing.

bUmP!

Time to measure up for wide range of silicone hoses pipes and ducts etc

I tried adjusting rear torsion bars to reduce the height of my Gen2 Brumby...nothing happened Others have pulled torsion bars and rotated a tooth a side to achieve change but never known how to myself

Figured so.Beauty about silent forum discussion. Brian really needs to check count to be sure rather that believe internet advice

That was posted up on fb by ausubaru.com ownerjuowner just sharing. I have only just replaced a shaft getting knuckly on turns...holed 30,000 km ago

Possibly you 'just' punch the pin out from gearbox end to slide inner double offset joint enough to mark and count your splines. Meanwhile a plastic fizz drink bottle and duct tape for urgent repair?

If gearbox is as left the factory...EA82 boday/engine combo ...manual efi got 25 splines, turbo is included as they are efi..my fwd turbo xt also 25 manual auto turbo 3 speed was the 23 spline though same as car by and all EA81 models

Close inspection might reveal its part number cast in the plastic. Not sure if series 1 is same as your series2 with hot wire afm

Seeing as though no photo allowed From centre of eye for pin at pedal to end of threaded end as in very end 28 1/4 - 28 1/2 parallax error from photo 720 mm

happy I have a pair hoarded from dealer some years back, but getting worried even EA82 4WD front struts bit light on at Rock.

Can someone take some measurements of a LHD clutch cable from any EA82 variant including XT and post in here please? I plan to do same with RHD. Our XT cable is different to wagons sedans etc and NLA. Wagons etc are. I guess length of outer and centre of each pull end of inner be best Tia

My latEst guess at this is not that the strut tops get bent.....more like the centre rubber mounted section gets shaped in service hence the reason. Why manuals say to mark before disassembly

Yep. Over in fb land there have been posts by a reproduction business soon to offer, if not now currently - repro tailgates that likely will need all latch and catch hardware transfered into. Australia about A$800?

When or IF it needs a new oil pump? I don't know what you do to oil pumps GD I have never needed a new one, nor needed to order one for a Subaru of this era. 500,000 , 800,000 km and more on the original oil pumps down here mate!

Ok my next suggestion is what I did.....fitted EA82 4WD front struts and their three stud mounts. I am right in the middle of prep to replace strut mounts with better used ones. Required me to drill two holes to suit positions of therearmost pair of studs and sand about 0.5 mm of paint and tube from the base to fit the strut to my EA81 hubs. I also made jelly bean washers forstrut tops to match original but thick washers will do. Best riding EA81 iI have had. UsUsed EA82 factory springs too See nearby thread i have rusurrerusurrected. Advantage of ea82 strut tops is they have a bearing instead of ea81 using a bush.

Same car, different donor for strut mounts, same story ...mounts must have bent the same two or three mm difference on two points?? Only way I could resolve this query is with new tops to measure. Sort of wonder why factory manuals suggest to mark tops orientation to tower before removing? Maybe in case they are bent prior to removal?

Surely genuine will outlast your needs? 721032064

Ford Australia produced a cylinder head for 1971 and 1972 250 ci sixpot in cast iron. Today this head is so popular and sought after in the US for all their six ccylinder mustangs that some one is reproducing them in alloy. The US never had their own design. Argentina did a similar head but Oz version was chosen for the parts availability rocker gear etc Six month wait I believe on orders. Might be worth contacting them

Yes and yes I agree