jono

buy my last left one with non brittle backings, with both holes about same size, which is different from later years that had a larger globe hole for one light I have a KOITO 21220334L has a Merc badge Y shape style fracture in th front clear lense, not fallen apart and has been tested by me personally over 110,000km. Does not have bulbs or sockets...think Jeszek got it as a spare

I have my doubts that you would get any propane and air mix condensing anywhere in the guts of a high rise intake - what with a turbo having just mixed it all up and preheated it ! Seen or heard of some amazing volumes between mixer and turbo and throttles over the years. I even run an NA with a 50 x 100mm rectangular box about 300 long atop a pair of twins with plenty or square inside corners for the mix to loiter - never any problems. Once made an experimental on the dedicated EA81 with a massive efi throttle body off a 2300cc Ovlov coupled to the mixer by overpriced silicon bend and 50mm PVC plumbing pipe. Low speeds it bogged down overfueling or something, but once revs stayed up it pulled and cruised just like the twin carbs snorting propane. In the middle of winter I got an instant start the next morning no falling out of mix overnight or bleed off down intake valves. I thought it may be due to the PVC not getting as cold as some other sort of ducting I have used before. Never got an instant start again so was not a defetc or such. My original plan was to turbo an EA81 on propane only and to stake the dizzy so no internal advance, no vac advance and just an initial 16 DBTDC and see how that went - still to do list. On your original question - a guy here added a turbo to, well, it was a running EA82 NA that just happened to have borrowed turbo heads at some stage, so was easy for him...set the initial timing at 10 degrees to allow for extra compression, ran on petrol/gasoline and reported good results on its strong torque. Some time later, car was up for sale for ages and had volunteered in the ad -a suspected spun bearing - maybe result of an old engine being boosted on NA comp ?? All my propanes are dedicated for no tuning compromise and only ran out and had to push and be pushed 300 meters when it ran out after 720km on one tank

Guten Morgen, Ich mochte to know just how fast this beast can cruise at given that you have the high speed roads to allow you to drive it at speed, legally. None of my EA82T cars have seen more than 20 kph over the maximum highway speed limit of 110 and only in a moment while overtaking. Many years ago when I was not so concerned about speeding, or being caught rather, my twin carb EA81 has cruised faster and comfortably more go under the pedal than any of my EA82T Have you got any top speeds to give ???

skishop is excused boosted - my ea82T is the early 85,86 version with separate knock control box and dizzy with innards rather than 'tronics, and the non spider type inlet manifold is said to suit propane better than the larger volumed spider design - thought to be closer to feeling fuel needs with lesser volume. It is dedicated so no afm, no fuel injectors or fuel pump in operation. The hook up was all done with various bends of silicone hose via ebay coming from China. I also used an exhaust shop to make up some size adaptors between the different sizes. My mixer, even though was a 200 had the larger sized outlet horn not by choice, only what I bought used and kitted up, not knowing it was the rarer one. My air filter box was a common old GM air box, flipped upside down and shoved into the spare wheel section that I then enclosed with sheet aluminium and rubber tailgate edge trim, topped to rub against underbonnet. Air came in via a few 30mm holes I drilled into the bonnet to feed directly into my created air chamber

Boosted ...wow, I'd love to know just what mixer your friend used. Mine was a 200 also just a 90 degree elbow away from the throttle. I did also have a throttle body I Araldited an adaptor to for the mixer to bolt directly on top of the throttle body - feared the Araldite would go soft from the heat so never happened. I tinkered with the balance lines between mixer and converter (condensor), taking out any elbows to get a straight line and the smaller ID line I went, got better but still just not driveable beyond around the block! Admittedly though _ I did have a soft as marshmallow valve spring on one cylinder due to slack back sided head shop staff but all went good as soon as I went turbo draws through - my Guru did say to go this way in first place agaisnt what many Impco company people said. As sooon as turbo draw through also discovered that a vapour filled intake under pressure pushed a tiny amount down the dist vac line, through holed diaphragm got ignited by rotor spark jump inside cap, went pfft under light load or KABOOM about 2 or 3 psi and pushed - looking for fault SkiShop did you mean to say the EA82T had a lower comp than EA81T ? We got 7.7:1 for EA82T, never got EA81T. Don't really expect a EA81 with EA82T pistons to be any more off a dog than EA82T on take off. Have to lower comp to avoid a ballistic event so EA82T pistons would be closest bet for safety surely ?

Boosted ...may have some pics in PC, will look later. The EA82T engine is currently in storage waiting for transplant time, thoug is simply fresh air Impco 200 mixer and L converter. Is mixer before turbo - so gasses get a nice tumpled effect and preheat before intake manifold I tried mixer direct on throttle body for turbo blows through - does not work due to the odd intake pulses of a 4 cylinder with turbo boosting it - works fine non turbo though. I have seen some extensive mods to the same impco components so it did work as turbo blows through , but very complex modding. After reading skishops account, i think I will motorvate self to extract some EA82T pistons to shove in the EA81 and see how they measure up .....he would not be the first to tell of the disatsers that can result from turboing NA boxer and factory bits

swap the EA82 exhaust with the turbo maybe ? That is what I intend to fit to an EA81, dunno if it fits up just yet though....spend too much time thinking rather than doin .....

well the manual says 130 psi, which is what I usualy find on comp tests, but my Vortex spider pumps out 150 One of my EA82T I bought cheap was the smoothest, most torquiest of all EA82T - quietest too....yet it had some blow by isues up hills. A comp test showed 120 in three pots, and just half in the poop cylinder. The weird thing is I could not sense any idle issue, no stumble on take off, no miss of any kind. On tinkering with a blow off set up on another EA82 I had the boost being diverted too long ( a design issue of mine) did not boost until 4000rpm and then whack! it would come in trying to take me to the next millenium. Up until that 4000rpm it was painful to drive - no go at all. Sounds like another turbo with an oil supply will fix your woes - check its oil pressure huh ?i

i think the rubbery 'give' is needed to prevent stress fractures to the floor where just one bolt holds it all together

running rich on propane is not same as running rich on gasoline - richer propane is hotter and some propane gurus say that sometimes retarding timing under boost on propane is not always the best thing to do. Woodswagon - was your 9.6:1 engine a boxer by any chance ? Love to see pics either way

another says ...anyway , EA82M code has been used before - M is for Mongrel ....it is big ends that eventually fail in turboed NA boxer comp ratios. Has not stopped others before, just don't think they ever come back and tell of demise. I have an EA81 NA solid with comp crank pressures of 180 that I plan to turbo just to see what and how long ...and how HARD it goes, with propane, EA82 spfi inlet for its throttle body, also have been sitting on for years a device to retard timing on boost of non MSD coils. Just need more time, some spendy, an exhaust, few more bits and maybe a tow voucher

anyone else confused by total of this thread ? I hear the reasons EA71 twin carbs and manifold do not fit on EA81 is that there is more distance between heads intake centre on EA81 than EA71, so from what I read the inlet or exhaust manifolds are not interswappable. The ideas expressed by OP likely not work from what I read

did someone borrow your thinking cap Jeszek ? I vote also against solid steel replacement - same reasons. Somewhere in your resourcefulness you must be able to find a rubber mount that has a stud each end that can be made to fit to your existing pieces, even if it is an exhaust mount, fuel pump mount, small engine mount say from a petrol generator mount ? You may have to not just drill hole but tap it to suit stud on top side for clearance, cut off flush, no nut again for clearance. You have lift was this mount also extended to allow for the difference on conversion ? For emergency, you could do same as what I did with gearbox or engine mount ....drilled hole and ran a bolt and nut to hold it together to function and feel extra vibration. The bracket and mount if left unattched will make gear shift difficult depending on stresses and strains of driving different terrain on engine and box mounts, might shorten throws, crunch gears, ..more than just an insulator

next time it happens, try tapping the fue...get the subaru mechanic in your boot to tap the fuel pump while you try cranking engine over. If that works fuel pump may be the culprit - they do die a slow death in these EA82 mpfi systems

someone will say whther or not you had to connect a pair of ecu located plugs while checking timing or not. Did you ?

yes, but need to ensure the radiator cap is the recovery style with a second seal in it. I have been running an EA82 bottle in an EA81 for years, also run another non Subaru recovery bottle mounted up near bonnet hinge and long hose across radiator and along up to bottle - great idea !

off topic ?? Maybe only if I had added the reasons I posted - reading that the BRAT was never sold in Japan - a right hand drive market that I thought actually got the turbo EA81 BRAT [seems it did not] , so then my brain was asking about source then of a RHD EA81T engine cross member that some on another forum have suggested be sourced to do a turbo conversion. Was it only the US that got EA81T ? Nice vid. Wonder if they are still together

if I can ask Jesz to send me an email to restore my address book please and 2, hijack back to Hyundy stuff and mention the Excels here that got a twin throttle body supercharged kit developed for them byformer Zoom magazine people now run autospeed.com , they incrased power first just by adding a second throttle body on the other end of th inlet manifold if I recall. The SC then doubled output, requiring beefed up clutch, rquiring beefed up brakes. It was a kit made to be availble on the market in th end I think one story was done in Northern territory when no speed limits applied on open highway, and they were overtaking road trains at 160 or was it 180 kph ....?? :)

check the coils tower for any corrosion crusty powder in there - also sounds like an intermittent coil problem. has anyone ever installed a fuel pressure gauge to their collection - as in a permanent fixture to compliment the other gauges ? I reckon any efi car should have at least an idiot light type pressure switch so if not maintain say 30 psi - light on ,,,,,i

an American design ? The EA81 MY shapes of sedan, two door and wagon , or just the El Camino look cutdown of the wagon ? The basic utility design concept started down under in Australia according to folklore when a farmers wife asked for a vehicle that could be used on the farm and take her to church on Sunday back about the day US cars were made right hand drive

If it was me, rather than add possible screw up of a dizzy change and its timing, would just take to it with a pair of flat blade screwdrivers, one either side, levering off from dizzy body outer , to prise the dizzy interupter off and replace the module - #2 philips driver for its two screws@

what do I think ? I think you may not have read OP has a lot of electrical stuff going on in relation to no start - yours seems fuel cleanliness. For the OP, check and clean, not just check .... I have after market battery terminal clamps that cause grief as they have lock down bolts each side of the cable that are the main cable clamp, that also double as an extra cable connector. They work loose just a little and intermittently cause no starts. As they loosen of, the main pos power cable that I think is alloy strands, forms invisible to the eye corrosion under the terminal clamp - has tricked me a few times. So I cut that bit off 10mm or so, clean up with lanotec LANOTEC not IANOTEC, protecting from further corrosion, tighten up clamps and off I go ..... The fusible links can also get cracks in the terminals at each end of the links, or corrode at solder joins .Check and clean all earths as well. Could be ign module too if it has one..

aha, I thought Drischnies heads were different in the combustion area and thought that was the GEN3 difference, but obviously not from the sounds of this thread. They look like decompression to me, maybe std flat top pistons were used with these heads the TK8 of Deutchland ? There is another quirk between some markets and part of the power increase thought to be - the throttle position sensor angles of action differ if you read the factory manuals of the 85,86 series you may find what i thought I found - a few degrees difference in the on off switching degrees within the TPS ??

circlip ? brass bar ?? we only got a mild steel or maybe tool steel axle pivot bar for the pedals !!

what sort of weight are you planning to add? Sounds excessive. Also looks like you are yet to learn the task the spring coils and shocks do - just as well you ask and plan before expecting too much of the light weight 4wd subie