jono
Members-
Posts
2219 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by jono
-
1986 XT Turbo 4WD Relay Locations
jono replied to Twitch de la Brat's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
yeah, I found fuel and ignition relays on a bracket behind and below the radio of the upright centre dash and thought what a hard as place to access just to check or replace !! The turbo knock sensor is also there on the 85 86 three plug ECU controlled beast -
Help troubleshooting. Ea82 will not start!
jono replied to kharris12's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
do you get any back fire through exhaust or inlet ? If so, may indicate plug wires or dizzy not correct 1990 is it carb, spfi or mpfi not turbo then you also have different dizzys to deal with for different instruction I often find I need to do comp test to confirm good compression or even at least then, dizzy needs to be set so it is a speck off firing position on #1 of course and flywheel at the timing mark not TDC so if you have a dizzy with vac can style and inside is the magnetic pick up, I found 25 though gap between two passing bits at timing mark on flywheel, then starts.... -
but...overheating can be from too much advance. not from too little advance..... the vacuum advance really drops out under load, when you have foot on it, lesser vacuum - leaving it up to mechanical advance centrifugal weights. Your old dizzy advance springs gone crappo maybe? Try blocking off the vac line with new dizzy installed and see if symptoms return p'raps? I have found the difference between vac advance working and not working is more just a crisper sweeter light throttle respnse when it is working Good that you got it sorted easy though
-
85 86 books say 130 for the EA82T, yet I get 150 in my 87.5 Vortex Had another non spidey that pulled the best, quietest, yet found only 60 in one, 120 in the others idled just fine, never indicated a miss of any sort - I was surprised!! Block stil to be dismantled 7 years later,but can see bore score or scuffing
-
only experience I have with a weber is not good - bought used, never used it, onsold to a guy needing a weber, jinxed himself there and then - did not pay fully, it gave him same problem as his first weber, so there was something wrong with mine of course, he and his car building mates too tight or stupid to put a kit through it - he failed to pay the balance owing and avoided me ever since..... I do know that the weber has a float and would suggest something different - fuel delivery pressure causing the fuel to leak out the jets. Would it hurt to crimp off the rubber fuel in line closest to carby to see if leak stops? If float chamber filling up and flooding, has to leak out jets sure;ly ?It may need a return line teed into fuel in and back to filter like EA81 from 1984 at least ?
-
it is, yes, a camber kit instructions that came with it basicaly says if you have tyre wear (actually must be made for US market coz the Aust company spells it US tire) if you have wear on the outside edge the channel plates need to be mounted so the slot can feed outward from the original lower control arm bushing bolt hole Have done so , needed to grind the lip on the cross member flat on the back side surface, ground the silver zinc plating off , now waiting for, checking accuracy of the position, check and double check which way is up etc, tack weld then off to the boiler maker for his mig skills. May as well do a turbo pipe clearance dish while at it (once less excuse not to turbo it ) I am curious as to whether the US based guys have bought this kit from Oz - K-mac , or you have your own manufacturer/supplier for a similar kit?
-
I bought it for my gen2 Brumby - works on EA82 as well
-
Go take it for a test drive to another dealer and ask them what it is worth as a trade in, point out its very low miles....they will most likely say it is not the low miles making it worth much more at all, it is its age that detracts it from a higher trade in. Low milers are only valuable to the sellers ..... It was made in June 92 according to the plates, so a 92 not a 93
-
1988 Subaru GL10 upgrades?
jono replied to MuddyThunder's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I ran a 2.5" system from cat back on my EA82T and got consistant 10 litres per 100 kilometres. My gallon is 4.546 litres whereas the US gallon is smack on 4.0 litres ? So, my MPG figure would not be fair. I think our RON octane rating is different as well - I was using 95 to get that figure, then, with a slightly heavier vehicle XT and EA82T 5MTAWD all std evreywhere on a 98 RON get 8.4 to 8.7 litre per hundred km. Get a vacuum/boost gauge and drive it using it as an economy gauge - the higher the vacuum reading - the better the efficiency. I once had the company fleet manager on board driving one of their cars. It was a while ago - before I got used to the 5th gear position , so I am still in 4th cruising along at 50mph and fleet manager asks me what is wrong with 5th gear - get better fuel economy ....my quick reply to over my awkwardness with 5th position selection was the higher revs, lighter load would have a better vacuum reading and could negate any benefit of lower engine speeds with more load/lower vac reading, He was a mechanic as well. Had to agree with me - got me out of that sticky situation Lucky he did not come along on the 700km return trip I did later 4 cyl Toyota Corolla, 3 sp auto, low worker morale - never got out of 2nd gear also, new timing belts will pull valve timing back to spec compared to older, slightly stretched belts -
trying to decode the VIN says it is 1800cc 4WD 5MT I think, just the codes for its spfi are not in my 86 manual, the Left or Right hand drive indicator is not a L or an R ?? D might be spfi code ? the last four or five letters confuse when comparing 86 manual data. The AWD in their descriptor code says they are a little confused between 4WD and AWD. Very nice looking car gone up to 7600 when I last looked
-
if it helps - I had a NA cam ground to a spec to suit both propane and /or turbo, done by a way experienced machinist specialist, so experienced he is now way retired and closed shop. 20/60 60/20 with a 0.225" lift was so strong with wet motion lotion, pretty good with propane - waiting to add a turbo one day. It does however hate me adding loads to it - the lighter the better
-
88 DL Black Box, Mystery Wire?
jono replied to kerandt's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
never seen a factory cruise in Oz in these, but 14 wires for a cruise control is an awful lot of excess wires surely ??? -
EA82 XT PS pumps were different from non XT in the reservoir size/position. You looking at EA81 PS or EA82 PS ? I notched a few EA81 non turbo engine cross members. One has been tested over 100,000km , the other welded by a boiler maker and got his certificate number stamped on the job - ready to roll one day
-
he might not have totally bypassed the control unit ..maybe bridged the power in to power out to get power to both auto choke and fuel pump , only effectively bypassing the safety aspect. C'mon, how often is it gonna roll or be in another type of accident ?? Seriously though, an alternative to the genuine box is an item used in propane conversions, an electrical safety switch box cheaply available in Australia anyway about A$40 that runs off a coil signal, has a prime timer for five seconds or so for starting, then needs coil signal to continue supply, has about a 10A or more delivery ?
-
all the EA81s whether 2WD or 4WD are listed as 23.0 mm or 0.905" in my clutch book as I read it G' you ned to do away with the .905mm typo same for EA82's all show 21.0 mm or 0.827 " just recently done an EA81 flywheel to EA82 spec to run EA82 clutch on back of EA81 to mate up to an EA82s 5MT 4WD. Also once mixed up pressure plates and used an EA82 21mm step one on EA81 23mm step flywheel. Was driveable, just crunched gear changes after a while. Did not get any slip though
-
23mm step on the ea81's check that for accuracy next time its out
-
Gosh, you are only just down the road from T'subaru T'sunami Markfrom Westport - he's drooled over a wanting a BRAT for years.
-
heaps of thanks to Liz at Rock's customer service for getting on to their end carrier for a trace to begin. Parcel arrivd on my doorstep in silence this morning ...no knock - woulda heard it. Aussie Post contractor given the option to leave parcel if no one home - so why bother knocking - just lave it and go. Time for a large sign to fit to door step DO NOT LEAVE PARCELS HERE ! TAKE TO YOUR DEPOT ! In the time it took for parcel to arrive from trace to begin - the parcel had to be within Australia Post despite their paperwork stating otherwise !! Thanks Liz
-
my tip on angle the car upwards to burp the cooling system is with attnetion to angle the radiator cap up most, so park it on an angle on a steep slope, or just lhs up on one car ramp, axle stand should do. I'd say do it with current coolant to see if that fixes things first, and yes, important is not only heater to hot - make sure the tap actually operates - you may need to remove a rubber boot to see the action. The fusible links in the FL box within 300mm of the battery pos terminal, under a plastic cover, red and green fabric covered fuses - they can coorode in 20 years abd cause electrical/starting issues- can be replaced by modern Female Fusible link plastic boxes individually - search new generation fusible links ausubaru should fill your head with enough to confuse A new clutch cable if is a manual box or at least remove and lube it up...
-
I agree with Jeszek, you really diagnosed it yourself - coolant gurgling about in the heater core and hoses inside the cabin. All I can think is that it is air in the system to allow these noises. I get the same noises in at least one Subaru that has no thermostat - one that by all good practice should have a thermostat - efi turbo that delivers beautiful power and economy, runs just so sweet ! Defies theories Try parking it on an incline and an angle to get the radiator cap at the highest point and run it from cold in this position to see if you can burp the suspect air out. Your coolant level may be low, or maybe not my case though, the seal on the rad cap allows air in as it cools ? It has made it 30 years so far - can't be too bad !! Nice car and gd on ya for the rescue
-
oil feed for the turbo come direct from oil pressure switch hole I suppose ? where does the turbo drain back to - spiked sump, hole in head hole in rocker cover ? pics pics, more pics!!
-
thought it time to follow up on this.... Rocks email included tracking, which the trail traversed across to our national postal carriers webite indicating only notification had been received. So, a phone call confirms,no item has been received, just 'paperwork' notifying of imminent arrival. A phone call to Rock,(sounds like Rarck Arto) so to get a new email to click on in case I did not have the original notification of shipped . It shows Rocks carrier website indicating parcel has been received by destination country and states Alexandria about mid January. No more can do from Rocks perspective at this point. Phone Aussie Post to have it confirmed that even though international carrier says it has arrived, they say it has not. A call back to Rock (got a girl this time ) to explain current findings and to sk for the matter to be investigated from their end. Next step is in their hands to enquire of their global dispatch methods to find it and email me findings. So far, everyone has been polite. Rock staff get to talk within less than a minute of making my calls. AP - almost got a weeks dishes done while on hold! Got an email within the hour to advise the carrier is starting an item trace, may take a few days to resolve ....I suppose TBA Your 92% beef snag and linseed bread got eaten before it got cold Tony. Wild bird seed still spread about the table though
-
I did a NA EA81 head job both sides in a std high Brumby in a remote location - no tree, no lifting equipment or people. It worked, does not cause nightmares. You might be lucky to leave the ancilary stuff in place but may get in your way. I recall finding a reason to remove AC just to retension EA81 head gaskets after a full engine build instal. I did need to undo engine mounts to shufl things about to get those self aligning push rods out. You do need to concentrate on lining them up in the lifters, takes feel and eyesight and no distractions. Tell us how you go. If you do it in car, you wont need an engine stand or have it roll around the floor as you work on the head stud nuts
-
EA82T, simple ways to gain power/efficiency
jono replied to BoostedBoxer421's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
if boost goes up, aren't you adding more fuel to get more power - lose efficiiency, but maybe get power of a slightly bigger cc engine for a moment?- 12 replies
-
- Ea82t
- horsepower
-
(and 4 more)
Tagged with: