jono

I am into day 21 of my 30 day warranty and will be at least day 22 before my parts arrive as today Monday already guys in US is Australia Day holiday in Oz ... I'l take this on board and check against needs as soon as parcel arrives via Australia Post. Looks like small parcels go snail mail, bigger boxes go dhl. The freight cost looks proportional to dollar value spent, weight of parcel - has no bearing on how fast it arives

^^^ this is what forums are all about ! Someone who feels a bit differently about something, and does it - just needs a prod to share it So, looks like you used standard carb heads to modify. Now, do you know how to get photos onto your post above - I need to see this !! Send me a message if you like ... the 1" screamer pipe is that Mazda rotary like extra exhaust pipe directing the release valve exhaust away further down the pipe ? How far did you take it before plumb into 2.5 exhaust ? The spfi did not have knock control ? You went full spfi so got their spfi disty in the EA81 - did you do anything to retard boost timing, stake the disty - can't do that to an spfi internals ? Timing setting ? See whhat you have created

can anyone yell out how many Ohms the CTS is capable of spitting out. If one of us could measure a perfect operating engine to see how many Ohms at what temps, you may be able to bypass the CTS installed, feed the ECU the values say from a resistor wheel, give the ECU what it wants, rather than what the CTS can give it ????? thanks for the pics too !! nearly forgot my manners

are "pops out the exhaust" a sign of crappy valve or weak valve spring ? I had a weak valve spring that a machine shop missed when they reassembled it ( oh, yeah, it would have been within spec" he says I say "pigs rrr's" ! There is no within spec on these EA82 - needs to be a figure and that is it. Plicks sent me on a long and expensive wild goose chase - chasing their stuff up Is it a bad combustion that you can hear out the exhaust or is there something in the valve sealing causing this ? A weak valve spring is really noticeable at all temps though, and I found a perfect fresh started engine idle would be screwed as soon as any throttle blip occured, took ages to settle only with engine off, or if drove it to upper revs, change gear - when in next upper gear idle went to crap again Think I have ruled out a weak valve spring for you. On your fuel pressure tested at 26 ...mpfi need about 36 ...did you test it with gauge T'eed in on a running engine? I think you can get inaccurate working pressure readings if you just take pressure at end of line from the pump in an engine off not running situation. My only spfi experience is all non electrical, my spfi is a bit better....like..may I suggest now I think of it - it sort of sounds like an mpfi injector with a crook injector in manifold seat seal - they happen at a hot idle. No good if you are spfi though, and you are. It sounds like it stays with one pot...have you tried blocking off temporarily any vacuum hose ports, plate up the EGR valve on manifold etc ??

so scubaroo, can you detail just what your NA build was please? Like std NA pistons compression? , std NA heads?, turbo from ? turbo pipe ? fuel system and manageent? knock control? I just wanna slap all the stuff on a going EA81 with its 510,000km on it, low budget experimenter for starters, and see you with spend more to be different, basic, simple, and achieve what you did

the EA82T had a lot over the EA81T as I can see, never experienced though - in that EA82 mpfi and turbo are as mentioned above - twin port inlet manifold, yet EA81T is not twin port inlet manifold or at the head - correct me if wrong though. Something that made EA81 engines reliable - was minimal smarts - just a module in the dizzy. A81T start to use ECU and knoclk modules that need sensors in good working order, lots of good readings, good earths and power supplies and yeah people tend not to care a lot for cooling systems as they age. I still plan to whack on an EA82T exhaust on a spare EA81, slap on the spfi inlet, rig up water supply, oil supply for a EA82 hair drier and let IMPCO take care of fuel delivery - no ECU, no knock module, maybe a boost retard system i have kicking around that came off a supercharged EA81 that ran propane. Engine metal temp sensors for loud alarms ..... Dreaming huh

would really be fairer if the white rim option was included in the comparo photos eh ? Ooh care parcel from the USA :( Marky !! SNAP on that plastic model Jesz ! Got same, unnassembled, requires about 60 bucks worth of paints to build it !!

I am sure there is a single thread in here somewhere to list/show Subarus found in films/movies etc on TV/DVD etc ? I have one to check and see if it is in there ...name of movie escapes me, now feel like playing charades game had two words in movie name ? Owen Wilson was in it, so too a maroon BRAT featured about last 25 mins (about all I watched honestly ! and think embrassment would set in if I'd said I'd watched entire movie other than to look for BRAT ) so could have been shown earlier than the double width driveway in front of a large house with single door for double garage, dark brick, tan/brown tilt door ? Got two looks at it from LHD drivers side perspective cannot think of movie theme or title (was beyond last night ! ) I found a post that Tom Hanks BIG featured SVX or XT6 .... need to watch it now

maybe this idea has eventuated by now ?? Word was there was an industrial purposed diesel EA81 back in the day ??

www.google.com EA82 spider manifold image shazam! came on XT turbo and some others ? Looks more an EJ style of inlet manifold over the old shar[p angle old mpfi EA82 inlet. It is a 4 legged spider not got 8 legs !

Confirming what Caboobaru says above, the bottom two green ones are the coolant transfer gaskets on the lower back section of mpfi inlet manifold (maybe not spider specific) - very handy for when you replace those small 12 & 14? mm welch plugs at the back. The large green one looks like spider TB to inlet manifold gasket - they are not same as mpfi non spidey

Mizpah were doing reco your core about $5 each. I got a set some years back - worth every cent on first start up ! No offence to your budget or the kind offer you got but I'd never fit used again, rely on my memory or someone elses as to how good they were on strip out - all the hard work to fit them .....

I got a new hard line from Subaru two years ago - the one from head towards turbo, then used silicone hose in 1/2" to turbo hard line. Always think about a trans cooler in line to help cool the turbo a bit more though ..... to handle the bends of straight hose where a bend is needed ... Gates now sell an Australian ( West Australian invention, fella by name of Bozic ?) the uni-coil - stainless steel coil spring shape, with a band welded each side to allow to bend a hose and keep it bent without kinking

style is excellent 6.5" is just right from the looks of things Now, black, all black... I see black rim, black tyre, may look too strange without any accentuation. What about making it look like black spokes with silver edges, silver rim ? I have done 13" in black or dark gun metal grey on red ute and looked dreadful. White is clean and fresh. I have done bright gleamg white rims, black tyres on a radioactively bright yellow wagon before. Yellow body, yellow bumpers I am voting for totally gloss white and grunge up that brake calliper My next rim job was sand blasted sand cast look alloy with polished outer rim, and clear paint brushed on clear. Lower budget than clear powdercoat finish They also looked just right. Not one for favour of totaly black rims - I know, I know , the bumble bee theme, but think of a bumble bee landing on a white daisy with yellow centre !!

and if EA82T going in, a turbo xmem will help, or mods by cut and weld needed to clear the exhaust tubing from turbo side head up to turbo

you did all three things together so now don't know exactly what the cause was but, so many times it can just be a pooey old radiator cap - often the original just give up after 20 years or so.They are a service item and lucky for us the originals or genuine are of such good quality, most don't even think of replacing ! +1 for the update

if you hold the sender wire from the gauge to earth on the engine block, body or battery - does it also send gauge to maximum ? Or, try disconnecting sender wire from sender unit and see if gauge still maxes out - indicate the wire is earthing somewhere between sender and gauge ? Still got old sender ? How's it behave? I notice some sender units now come with an earth connection as well to ensure good connections so things work properly - no need to make the taper thread so tight it earths throug thread tape if used etc,

there was a difference of some sort, but sure it is OK to go one way, maybe not the other. I used a PS cross member in my manual steer Brumby no problems. I think one has a bolt in brace on the underside of the xmem and the other not.. Your PS may be worth somethinng even if it needs overhaul, it and long neck thermostat housing

Monstaru, I am curious about the clearance issue inside. It seems that I have fitted up struts that have been a fluke fit to an L Series EA82 first. Fluke by way that each strut is marked to be fitted to opposite sides they are sitting in - for both EA82 and EA81 You have swapped over 20 or so EA82 struts into EA81 bodies, were they genuine struts or aftermarket in all cases? I think genuines will be correctly positioned as far as the orientation of the spring mount offset and may not have any clearance issues needing a belt with a hammer. I suspect these aftermarket Monroes were made to suit another brand of car entirely yet they likely list as fit in EA82 just need to fit one marked for LHS to RHS and vice versa. The EA81 strut sits centrally within the spring mount. EA82 strut sits offset within spring mount, so , when looking at factory EA82 front struts and those of nearly every other Macpherson strut fitted to most cars if not all with wheel off, the offset of the strut sits closer out towards the wheel and tyre, not closer into the body side of things - if you all get what I mean ? I am not worried as the EA82 I drove for 110,000km with these reverse handed struts handled very well. Am yet to drive this EA81 ute with EA82 front struts - just waiting for new brake hoses from Rock - slower mail carrier for hoses than the international freighter that delivered rear shocks in just 8 days from almost 10,000 miles / 15,448km away !!

genuine for me too! Each time I have used genuine I have found that the retension after initial warm up cool down has not been required. Every other has taken a bit more. No matter the cost I am sold on genuine.

that is better description of the problem. a wallet friendly thing to do first is the relay trick. 1. Get a universal 'horn' relay of about 30A with four pins on it. Find a good place to secure close to starter solenoid yet out of harms way. Pins face down in case of water getting into things A relay with a fuse socket built into the front is even better - it is on the 30 terminal side of relay- power supply.If no fuse holder on fuse, fit one inline to the new power wire 2. The thick black wire that clips on to the starter solenoid ? Shopuld be pos power with ign switch in start position only each and every time Pull it off, needs a squeeze to release it sometimes It goes to terminal 86 of your new relay. 3. Connect terminal 85 of relay to a good engine earth or body earth /metal point. A good test at this stage is then IGN switch to start position. You should hear or feel the relay click inside each and every time you select 'start'position, maybe a click heard when back off start position. If this is the case things are looking good. If not don't bother looking at step 4. just yet - scream out for help 4. Proceed with providing a new fat wire from the chunky positive lead at the starter motor or battery if you want longer messy wiring. Supply this fat pos power wire to terminal 30 of the relay. A same fat wire as the one going from wire loom to starter solenoid before is a guide to size. Same size then needs to go from 87 to the what should be at present vacant male spade terminal on the starter motor solenoid. If this fixes problem, no need to worry about a new ignition switch just yet. No understand any of above - ask questions before starting the above steps .....

usually these solenoids are part of the idle circuit. get a normal running one and disconnect the 12V pos supply and the engine idle will drop off, and stall. A pollution control ? stops engine properly when you cut ignition switch...so this solenoid is powered up in the IGN ON circuit with coil and fuel pump sort of thing

i am still a tiny bit confused when you hit the starter position (usually has spring tension resistance felt to this position in a healthy ignition switch) do you then hear the starter motor engage AND turn engine over each and every time? OR, do you get intermittent, sometimes turns over and sometimes not OR do you mean you get starter motor turn over each and every time, and sometimes the engine will fire and run, or sometimes not fire and run with starter position on switch released to IGN position ? The ignition module in the distributor usually gives a few odd no starts, then will start, run, drive OK for a while, few days, weeks etc, then finally no start for ever. The 18V if it is correct may be doing some harm. Test it with something direct off battery and alternator and replace alternator if showing more than 14.2 V

no one can tell if it is carby or efi ?? Kapisch ?? Better post up a pic of the throttle body !

readers may be confused like me - is it trouble turning engine over or is it turning over fine on cranking by starter and just not firing nicely ? There are many causes. First cause can be that you have Noahs old spark plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor. And air filter and fuel filter and fuel pump been on it since Adam was a boy. A strater relay can be wired in to keep load of ignition switch and it spin instead of click like a flat battery, dodgy earth etc