jono

do both fans work ?

a bottle of stop leak ....

time to BUMP this

found it !! so, it wasn't that you did not mark the strut tops on dismantle then ? for anyone curious, these strut tops on EA82 L Series will fit three ways, and two ways are wrong !! Mark their orientation on removal is easisest way to explain as they are not marked to assist assembly which is unusual given the colour coding everywhere else to assist assembly !

what does BUMP mean Tony ?

theory suggests not, but have seen pics of the suggested combo and owner denies any problems, just an extra square inch of brake pads either side of both rotors ! There are also seal differences on the inner side of the hub.You might be the pioneer - take pics !

got anything like this stuff ??

very privy info you reveal there thanks you know what ? I did see the word OUT stamped on top of the top spring 'cup' and it was on the inner side of the strut. Yeah, go figure ! The mystery continues, as there is a hard wearing sticker on the struts indicating their position on the vehicle, by way of va basic car diagram and red circle on a corner. The one with left front corner came out of a right front corner of an L Sedan. The positioning of the strut is governed by the non ambidextrous nature of the retaining bracket at the strut base, using the short M10 bolt. I think some clever parts list uses the left from one similar vehicle for a right for the EA82/L Series and vice versa ! The design of the spring coi determines where it sits and end result is top spring cup sits around opposite side ! The detail in the strut tops themselves has been resolved. To look at an EA81 two stud strut top you can see a definite angle of their construction when viewed side on. They at least have lots of decent stampings to show which way they fit in which set ups - one way for 4WD, the other way on opposite side for FWD. The tri stud EA82 top mount is a little more of a stuy from side on to determine just how different it is. There is only 2mm in it. Best measured with strut top in place on the strut, spin it to measure each of the three points, to find the one different, two same points. The different point is the one that fits to the lonely hole at the front of the EA82 strut tower. A closer study of the strut tops top bits when still fitted in the tower can also determine if the blighter has been installed correctly. The very central cylindrical section that the bearing dust cap sits in is top square to the rest of the strut centre valve piston rod thing. The rest of the strut top is not square to the rest of the strut mount. I think there are some differently constructed mounts made by different suppliers or different years. One, you need to keep the dust cap in place, use a flat straight edge rule across the two sides of central cylinder and swing it around over the three rubber castle tops in the direction of each stud. You will see a difference in the clearance between your straight edge and the top side of the castle top. Other designs might need the dust cap removed. Find the odd clearance out and that one is usually pointing to the front of the car. Someone in here had beast that refused to steer or straighten up - tried swapping replacing all sorts of things - I am wondering if the strut top was the cause. I found that just to hang the strut from its three studs, and turn it to steer left or right, it would self centre to straight ahead when in certain positions. Stick the strut top in wrongly up top may cause car to try to self centre the wrong way !!

Hmmm....good question..... I read it on a forum .so did what was suggested most of the way along. There is also a difference between your LHD and our RHD clutch cable lengths. When we fit the central forked hole 5 speeds our RHD cables won't stretch further, whereas your cables, well, don't have to travel further to go to work, they travel less. And this ute is getting an EA82T, flywheel, clutch and gearbox eventually. I also like the EA82 clutch cables mounting methods over an EA81, bit harsh saying that, as only had to replace one old EA81 clutch cable in over 490,000km in Subarus

I like it when someone is wrong, and gets corrected It is good to know you got it sorted. I did not think the dropping resistors came in until the EA82 went four plug ecu ! The dropping resistor you used went on the constant positive power supply side, and switched the earth side vua the ECU ??

just thinking have never seen anyone put up a pic of the differences between the pedal boxes of the EA82 and EA81. It has been said that an alternative to modifying an EA81 pedal box to take EA82 clutch cable when doing a 4WD 5MT conversion, is to 'just' fit an EA82 pdal box. It looks like a 120mm x 60 mm piece of flat plate will make a nice adaptor, coupla bolts .... the accy pedal also have different ends for the cable and from what I recall, the accy pedal needs a few bend mods. I have already swapped the EA81 acc pedal on to the EA82 pedal box, hoping for a shortcut. This pedal box the rusty one is the EA82 RX version

I can feel your knees a shakin' being so far from home with a lame mule efi or carby? efi has more things to check and go futt either may react with a shot of something igniteable ether, WD40, CRC556 down the intake as it is being cranked. If it backfres and blows flame to either burn you badly, singe eyebrows, scare you etc - may be the timing belt turbo side on your lonesome or got side-kick or family with you - to help, or hinder ? Handy thing about being outside a parts store is most customers could have some idea, tools nearby , better still a curiosity and helpful nature. Have you checked all the blade fuses near your left knee ? Then there are fusible links in the brownish plastic box about a foot along pos lead from battery, but does not sound like them.

+1 for a broken cat +1 for injector to manifold seal +1 for a break in the intake duct +1 for a dirty spitty injector how is compression testing ?

standard ball pein hammer did the job on the essentially a splash guard inner. That dimple was likely there to assist booster removal, but so far, only boosters I have removed have been on wrecks. One odd thing I noticed is that the struts must be a generic item that flukely fit the L Series. The fitment label suggests the units are to fit on opposite sides than where they do fit. If they were fitted to sides suggested by label, the clearance issue might be with wheel/tyre instead. It is the securing bracket to hub that dictates what side the strut must go. Must say I have never noticed any other strut that send the fatter offset bulk of the spring towards the body. Clever engineers at Fuji !

delete duplicate pic

still waiting for a caution on the spring coils rubbing on the inside of the tower, or maybe the brake line bracket getting in the way ?? this is a standard height conversion so may be very different to any others done in here

OK, observation is, with the strut mounted in tower as I was originally intending, odd one to the front...car is jacked up on one side to work on it in a non floor location strut is in , hanging , I set strut to sit in correct orientation, side bolt hole forward, rotate stut as if turning, let it go, which ever way I rotate the baby centres itself to straight ahead

hmmm, I recall from this time last year - full stroke at cable/fork junction in 85/86 manuals is more like 25mm for EA82 4WD. The EA81 clutch pedal delivers closer to 16, 17mm two lots of conflicting numbers to consider now ! I know I got 25mm, strapped a metal tape measure end to fork, strapped tape fixed and depressed clutch to get ~25mm, after I swapped EA81 pedal out for EA82 pedal

Remove rubber cap from top side, centre of L Series strut mount. get a rule or straight edge. prepare to take a max of three measures off the top of the central rubber ring that just removed cap from. Sweep across, flat, towards each of the three mount to body studs. Between these points is the top of a square lump of rubber looks a bit like a castle from a castle nut (aka axle nut with castles for split pin) One of these three castles has less clearance than the other two. Odd one out is the one to the front hole body to mount !!

From the mouth of a Subie Dealers Employee of the Year !! Before he got his second HNY beer !! Remove rubber cap from top side, centre of L Series strut mount. get a rule or straight edge. prepare to take a max of three measures off the top of the central rubber ring that just removed cap from. Sweep across, flat, towards each of the three mount to body studs. Between these points is the top of a square lump of rubber looks a bit like a castle from a castle nut (aka axle nut with castles for split pin) One of these three castles has less clearance than the other two. Odd one out is the one to the front hole body to mount !! Gee's, that was close, nearly resorted to f

and in here to tell that I have measured in a more technical method than before - used pencil marks and steel rule There is a 2mm difference in height on one stud. A moment ago in the other thread, I theorised the front position for this one, now, after a few moments, I can also think maybe outer rear ?????

that's it she is home ! Now, more on this tri stud strut mount I have used a reference mark, spun the mount on its bearing and found that one point is 2mm lower than the the other two. So, there is a slant, not a complete twist , thank Fuji ! For those who can't se my problem, i am looking side on at the strut mount, as I spin it on its axis on the strut itself. There really don't seem to be any markings on the mount to indicate its orientation. There is a rubber castletation to correspond to each of the studs, some variable casting markings, and that is it. No instructions in the books on how to determine it.. Which is why one workbook suggests to mark it before dissembly I am thinking that as one is different - it should go to the front lonesome stud position. Man, where are all the EA82 experts !!

hmmm..... mine are a light blue, stamped made in England ! I never had to install them on my GLTA - they were in it. When I pulled them, I am sure I used same extra heavy duty hammer to dislodged them. So, stepped out to buy some 80 grit strip off a roll, shoved strut in a vice to hold it in place and got stuck into the paint removal and kept going. While I was out, called in on Mick (Dundee) borrowed one of his screwdrivers , so, no need for one of your Stateside pry bars I got a real purdy shine on the stump, finished it off with 240 grit and some purple polish. Added some wool fat out of a can - Lanotec, gave the girly end of the deal a clean up with 80 grit - and the strut nearly fell in the hole !! Special thanks to those who replied and encouraged. Just wondering who is gonna strip a never before stripped out strut to come up with correct positioning of the mount ?? Mark it first up top hey ! A smidge more and I will be satisfied that good, safe , engineering practises were in place

Aha, I knew there was a secret ! Not sure I am willing to risk pushing the envelope on spreading that housing into a permanent position for fear of breaking something !These are Monroe struts and may be a tiny bit different to other strut specs....more paint and may get them ? 20 of them huh ?? thanks for inspiration